PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:Anti-lag usually times the spark so you get maximum exhaust velocities.

DEAR GOD that sounds like a horrible idea longevity wise^^^^^

Have you guys seen the hybrid BOV's yet. Half recirc half atmosphere! I worked on a subaru other day that had one pretty niffty stuff! Get a little whoosh and no subaru broken ring lands. Yes i work at a subaru dealer and yes i replace sti pistons mostly the 2008--> models all the time bout 10 motors popped this year!




On a side note has anyone used apexi SITC ? If you have or know what it is what is a set up for an equivalent MSD which one*? What all do i need?

Anyone ever tried to make an safc with window switchs and resistors?
(yes i ponder that kind of stuff all day im poor but i shur read alot)

cheers on the great information thus far guys

Anybody ever used any kind of anti-stall feature on a piggy back or stande alone? Kind of what Chris was saying about being tuned for in a ROM tune. I have a Greddy E01 boost controller and it has a "anti-stall" feature to make running atmosphere blow off possible. The directions don't explain very much so I was curious if anybody has ever set something like that up.

My E-01's "anti-stall" was more like a "gurantee stall" feature.

damn, sounds like I'll re-circ then. did you have to set it or is it self controlling?

I can't remember at all. It was so long ago. Just do blow through MAF and be done with it. It also helps when you blow an intercooler coupler. You can still make it home.

my launch control/anti lag /flat shift whatever you call it moves ignition timing to atdc
for the bov, recirc is the best imho, but blow through is very useful. If you have couplers coming off buy t bolts and hair spray the joints. I get a better tune on recirc.

How much boost can you safely run with a Z32 MAF and a blow through setup? I like the idea but I'd like to eventually run around 20psi, and I can't imagine the plastic structure holding up to that for very long. Also I've heard of people switching back and forth between pull through and blow through without retuning but this makes no sense to me at all. The whole concept of a hot wire MAF sensor is it measures the voltage required to keep a wire thats exposed to the airflow at a certain temperature. The ECU assumes the air coming through the MAF is at atmospheric pressure, and as we all know, temperature increases with pressure. So with the hotter air going through the MAF, it would take less voltage to maintain the wire's temperature, thus the ECU would think there is less air going through than there actaully is, and the car would run lean. From this logic it seems absolutely imperative that you retune for blow through vs pull through. Someone who's run both please educate me...

The air isn't hot if you run it on the cold side of your intercooler. Realistically, yes, you should re-tune when switching between suck through and blow through, but you can have such a safe tune that that little bit doesn't matter as much. You're still sending the same amount into the engine. Blow-through is better as well because it completely takes your intercooler's efficiency into effect. It measures exactly what is going into your engine.

and as we all know, temperature increases with pressure. So with the hotter air going through the MAF, it would take less voltage to maintain the wire's temperature

Hotter air is also less dense, so less oxygen is actually getting to your engine. The MAF is sort of a flow meter/temp sensor all in one.

The MAF is nothing more than a flow meter. Don't try and complicate it more than that. Your ECU tune will have to take the input from it, as well as TPS and try to determine boost amount, and therefore target AFRs. Really with a MAF map, you have to tune on the safe/less efficient side and "assume" you are in boost more than you would with a MAP/speed density setup. This is generally why MAP/Speed Density tunes make more power/better efficiency than MAF tuned setups (unless they utilize an auxiliary boost sensor).

Oh, and yeah, a 300zx TT MAF will meter up to and a little passed 500whp worth of airflow. How much power 20psi gets you depends on how big your turbo is, etc... but expect about 350whp with that on a MAF tuned setup...

I've been running 18psi on my blow-through 300 MAF since 2008. It's been solid.

Good to know, I'd really like to do a blow through setup since it would really simplify the arrangement of things in the engine bay, no recirc etc, but had kinda talked myself out of it due to perceived tuning issues and such. Might just have to go ahead with it. I'm just running an enthalpy cookie cutter tune, so I'm assuming that would be conservative enough to run a blow through setup? It's a GT3076 with STI injectors. The 20psi I mentioned would be until after bigger injectors, top feed rail, and dyno tuning with an SAFC, if I ever get that far...

Yeah you'll be fine. There might be a "shift" that needs to be made. Do you know anyone with a wideband O2 sensor? They really aren't bad. You can get one that screws into the end of your tailpipe for like, under $300 now a days. Screw it in, if you need to shift, just buy an adjustable fuel pressure regulator and adjust your baseline accordingly.

AEM UEGO is on my shopping list, made a couple offers on Zilvia, but no one's let one go yet. Right now I'm just focusing on getting the damned thing running.

I have done both, honesty I like blow through due to it many pros.

However draw through is best IMHO with recirc bov.


Look at it this way, a turbo takes x amount of air and turns it into XX amount of air, yes draw through ingests cooler air than blow through sees, however the increased amount of air makes the maf read in a higher cell inside the maps. At least from my experience with datascan, both ways same tune blow through was in a higher map cell.

how much you plan to spend on a wbo2? px combo goes for 199.99 new(wont find many second hand, because people dont let em go)

The turbo doesn't increase the amount of air though, it just compresses it.
The amount of air it takes in and puts out is the same, it's just compressed, then cooled by the intercooler.

Perhaps it's the fact that it's receiving denser air from the intercooler is what's causing the changes?
Still the same amount of air though...

I'm thinking about doing a blow through setup for my new tune but seeing some people talking about going lean is making me hesitant.
How much of a change in AFRs is typically seen in blow through setups?
I thought maybe I should bump up my fuel pressure from 34psi to 36psi just in case.
Or I could spend $200 on an AFR gauge and have him adjust my tune, since he does those for free.

both razi IMHO all kat should run a wideband perm install. And you can get a cheap ebay fpr for a few bux and have it retuned.

Yeah I already have a nismo fpr.
I'm highly considering an AFR gauge though. FRsport is selling an AEM one for around $200.

Well you could do that or plx sm afr is only 200 bux. From my pov plx or aem for a daily wideband.

I like my innovate LC-1 quite a bit