Hello,
I am looking for a 300zx but I am trying to spend less than 10k on the car itself. Which year and trim would be the best to buy and then mod for performance after I buy the car. Also, what are the best mods to install to up the performance?
THANKS
Best 300zx to buy...
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daniel300zx
- Posts: 1
- Joined: Mon Apr 10, 2017 8:04 am
- Car: Want Nissan 300zx
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Ziggy1621
- Posts: 1137
- Joined: Sun Jun 10, 2012 5:57 pm
- Car: '90 Z32 TT (Shibui)
'90 Z32 2+0 NA
'68 311 Roadster
2004 Rx330
2011 BMW 550i (TT) - Location: Cocoa, Florida
- Contact:
Re: Best 300zx to buy...
Awesome! Welcome to the group Daniel300zx! My opinion, is if you are going to spend less than 10k, buy an NA in decent shape that needs work and spend the money putting in quality parts that will let you drive it every day! I bought my TT and put about $13k in it, doing all the work myself including paint and interior. The motor alone took about $8k of that, but I've been able to drive it every time I put the key in over 3 years later. I know the temptation is to just make it fast, but these cars are fairly quick already compared to similar priced used cars, and sometimes guys get wrapped up in adding performance and not concentrating on maintenance.... then they end up with a car with lots of bolt ons, that doesn't run :P Just my two cents!
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DCaff300ZX
- Posts: 4202
- Joined: Sun Jun 14, 2009 8:18 am
- Car: .
1993 CRP TT- Modified - Location: Tacoma, Washington
Re: Best 300zx to buy...
Great call Ziggy.
I'll add that you want a 1994 or 1995 model from the standpoint of least amount of maintenance hassles to deal with due to several OEM upgrades to injectors, brakes, connectors, and more.
Also, realize most of these cars have sat a LOT and that has it's own issues to deal with, even though the car may look very clean and neat. Study up on electrolysis and the effect on the 1993 and earlier engines, and the effects of time and non-use on the Z32. Pre-95's were wired with the injectors "always on" which is a problem and where electrolysis comes in.
Be SURE the car you buy has had the 120K service done, or price adjusted accordingly if you are comfortable with doing it or are having it done by a true Z32 pro. 120K is timing belt and all supporting hardware on the front of the motor- failure there means no more engine as the motor is an interference motor, meaning parts will collide internally without the timing belt in place and adjusted correctly. Wise Z32 guys ALL buy RameyZ studs and in my case, a kevlar racing t-belt so I can forget about it for the rest of mine's life.
Avoid the A/T models as well unless again price and swap ability make that doable, the A/T's die consistently from lack of maintenance abuse and weakness, and especially if they get the notorious Nissan A/T flush-kill.
You should be able to get a decent NA for under $5K easily, and expect to spend another $2K if the car needs to be brought up to date with 120K and more. THEN replacing/upgrading the suspension, brakes, and wheels/tires will again be in that range+ so you will be at $10K by that point but ready to modify most likely...but be SURE to have everything inspected and looked over before going too far, slow and steady most likely is the best bet.
Good Luck and have fun!
I'll add that you want a 1994 or 1995 model from the standpoint of least amount of maintenance hassles to deal with due to several OEM upgrades to injectors, brakes, connectors, and more.
Also, realize most of these cars have sat a LOT and that has it's own issues to deal with, even though the car may look very clean and neat. Study up on electrolysis and the effect on the 1993 and earlier engines, and the effects of time and non-use on the Z32. Pre-95's were wired with the injectors "always on" which is a problem and where electrolysis comes in.
Be SURE the car you buy has had the 120K service done, or price adjusted accordingly if you are comfortable with doing it or are having it done by a true Z32 pro. 120K is timing belt and all supporting hardware on the front of the motor- failure there means no more engine as the motor is an interference motor, meaning parts will collide internally without the timing belt in place and adjusted correctly. Wise Z32 guys ALL buy RameyZ studs and in my case, a kevlar racing t-belt so I can forget about it for the rest of mine's life.
Avoid the A/T models as well unless again price and swap ability make that doable, the A/T's die consistently from lack of maintenance abuse and weakness, and especially if they get the notorious Nissan A/T flush-kill.
You should be able to get a decent NA for under $5K easily, and expect to spend another $2K if the car needs to be brought up to date with 120K and more. THEN replacing/upgrading the suspension, brakes, and wheels/tires will again be in that range+ so you will be at $10K by that point but ready to modify most likely...but be SURE to have everything inspected and looked over before going too far, slow and steady most likely is the best bet.
Good Luck and have fun!