Basic cost for SR20DET

Post by **94teggy** » Sat Aug 10, 2002 12:53 pm

Thanks, Daunt...I'll see how everything goes with selling my car and then i'll get back to ya on whether or not i'm gonna be able to do it or not...i'll probably have about $5,000 to work with so i know i'm either gonna cut it real close or go over. Sorry i haven't replied sooner but I didn't get power back until Sunday and still don't have internet back becuase of that snow/ice storm that came through NC, so i'm checking all my internet stuff at school right now

-Jon-

Post by **Onizuka** » Sat Aug 10, 2002 12:53 pm

Daunt, do the engines come to your shop in Iowa or somewhere else? because I know an independent trucker who will ship me the engine for less that 200 from your location in Iowa to where i live near philly

Post by **Daunttless** » Sat Aug 10, 2002 12:53 pm

The engines come to my shop, and if you'd like to use an independant trucker thats fine with me, I don't jack up the shipping prices, so if he wants to come pick it up from my shop and take it out to you, he's more than welcome to. : )

Post by **94teggy** » Sat Aug 10, 2002 12:53 pm

Dauntless, I have another question for you

I'll probably get the swap from you if/ when i do it...and just forget about the S13 silvia conversion for now and get an Intercooler($799), the hot IC pipe with BOV($299), SVR Slim Battery($109, or should i get a battery relocation kit?), and a Clutch Kit($319-345) all from Heavy-Throttle, unless you can give me better prices on that stuff or places with better prices.

So is there anything else i might wanna get...like a turbo timer and boost controller etc. And do i need somekind of special fan or fan shroud or is that just optional.

Thanks for all your help, I really apperciate it.-Jon-

EDIT: What all hoses come with your swap...just the radiator hoses or do the power steering lines come with it also?

Post by **chrispy** » Sat Aug 10, 2002 12:53 pm

yo jspec where is near philly , do you live around me ?

Post by **94teggy** » Sat Aug 10, 2002 12:53 pm

Daunt,

Sorry if i'm being a pain with all my questions...i just wanna make sure i have everything all right. Today i thought of 2 more questions for you...

1. Are your motor swaps compression tested?

2. Can the engine be shipped directly to my house or does it get shipped to some other place and then i go pick it up?

Thanks for all your help

Peace-Jon-

Post by **Daunttless** » Sat Aug 10, 2002 12:53 pm

1. They can be upon request, we don't buy junkyard engines and the cars are test driven, so its not usually done unless there is a reason to.

2. Yep.

Post by **94teggy** » Sat Aug 10, 2002 12:53 pm

Sweet...thanks for putting up with my 20,000,000 questions:D

Quote »I'll probably get the swap from you if/ when i do it...and just forget about the S13 silvia conversion for now and get an Intercooler($799), the hot IC pipe with BOV($299), SVR Slim Battery($109, or should i get a battery relocation kit?), and a Clutch Kit($319-345) all from Heavy-Throttle, unless you can give me better prices on that stuff or places with better prices. So is there anything else i might wanna get...like a turbo timer and boost controller etc. And do i need somekind of special fan or fan shroud or is that just optional.[/quote]

So are all those prices pretty reasonable and common?

-Jon-

Post by **Daunttless** » Sat Aug 10, 2002 12:53 pm

I can probably match or beat those prices, and then you'll avoid the hourly fee thats associated with parts that aren't purchased from me. : ) All of those are pretty reasonable, I can probably do a bit better for you though. Additionally you'll probalby want an intake ( if you don't have it ), you'll need a downpipe, you'll want a fuel pump, an exhaust if you don't have it, maybe some new motor mounts. Additionally you won't need a special fan, we can install electric fans if you'd prefer, but we have everything you need. : ) Enjoy your day!

Post by **94teggy** » Sat Aug 10, 2002 12:53 pm

Okay so this is what i guess i'll do after i sell my Integra

Quote »From Me:Complete SR20 $2200Labor $1000My downpipe ~$100 or Greddy/Blitz $129Apexi N1 Dual will be sub $500. N1 sub $400. Not finalized yetIntake $100Fuel Pump $129Belts, Fluids, Hoses $100= ~$4100 installed.[/quote] minus the installation with the single N1 exhaust and either downpipe it really doesn't matter to me just as long as they're both 3"

then i guess i'll get all of this from you as well since you say you can match or beat those prices:Intercooler($799), the hot IC pipe with BOV($299), SVR Slim Battery($109, or should i get a battery relocation kit?), and a Clutch Kit($319-345)

I would like to stick to my $5,000 budget as much as possible but i can probably go about $500 or $600 over...is that going to be possible if i spend about $1,000 on the car? if not what thigs can i leave out until i can save up for them?

Also should i get a boost controller(electronic or manual?), turbo timer(or can this wait a while?), and any kind of guages? If so what brands and can you get them too, because i would like to have everything all at once and preferably from the same source so that i wouldn't have to source parts as i go along.

Thanks-Jon-

Post by **94teggy** » Sat Aug 10, 2002 12:53 pm

This is kindof off topic a little bit but is there anything i should particularly look for when i go to buy a 240...like areas that commonly rust...etc...

Peace-Jon-

Post by **Daunttless** » Sat Aug 10, 2002 12:53 pm

Actually, I cut out the belts, fluids, hoses, thats all included in installation now. So it would be something like this:

Redtop $2200Labor $1000Intake $100Apexi N1 $400Downpipe $100Fuel Pump $115-- Or $3900 if you want to make it easy

Then theres:NISMO mounts $270Clutch $325-ish?Intercooler $750-950Apexi S-AVC $475ishApexi S-AFC $325ishApexi Turbo Timer $90

As far as rust, if you're buying a S13 Hatch the hatch commonly rusts, expect rust if theres a spoiler. On S13 Coupes the HUDs tend to go out, miraculously a lot of people on this board have had their HUDs be problem free, but that generally isn't the case. Additionally both the driver's and passenger's runners tend to rust. The center consoles tend to brake, and ash trays go missing. The drivers side seat tends to break and won't stay up. Other than that there isn't much to look out for. In S14s theres the dreaded drivers side window motor problem where it jumps track and makes terrible noises, that can be fixed by taking your door apart and tightening a screw but the motor may be forever damaged and on its last leg. : )

Post by **94teggy** » Sat Aug 10, 2002 12:53 pm

Alright thanks for the info...i've changed my mind and i think i'm gonna get a hatchback and maybe do the silvia conversion later...cuz i'm more performance oriented than appearance oriented.

So with your prices that gives me $1,000 for the car $2,900 for what all you listed with the swap about $750 for the intercooler $325 for the clutch and $300 for the shipping(correct me if i'm wrong?) Which gives me a grand total of $5275 which i think i can handle...i'll just ask for $$ for christmas and that should cover my deficit...should i really get the motor mounts if the ones on the car are fine?

And i've heard of the Apexi V-AFC (from the integra crowd) and i think i've heard the S-AFC mentioned but i'm not really sure what it or the S-AVC do?

Also how hard is it to convert the wiring harness...cuz i'm not completely electronic illiterate, i've hooked up an amp and speakers and neons for my friend, but i'm considering sending the harness off to get it converted if i dont feel comfortable enough to do it myself.

I can hold off on the turbo timer for now can't i?...just as long as i remember to let my car cool down before turning it off? And i'll probably go with a manual boost controller for now until i can get an electronic one(will i need a boost gauge if i get a manual one, and if so what kind and can you get those too?)

And finally, what do i need to do as far as a BOV is concerned...can you get those and do i need that hot IC pipe with the BOV or does that pipe come with the FMIC kit?

Thanks so much for your help

-Jon-

Post by **94teggy** » Sat Aug 10, 2002 12:53 pm

If i decide to try to do the wiring myself where is the best place to get instructions on how to do it...i looked at http://www.srswap.com a little bit this morning but i didn't really understand very much of what they were explaining.

Also will the guages on the 240 work with the SR20 or do i need the JDM cluster? And what all hoses do you include with the swap? While i was reading srswap.com i saw where they said something about needing an electric fan(here's the link http://www.srswap.com/html/info/inst_cooling.htm ...is that just needed for the S14 240's ) because you said i wouldn't need that right?...and they also were talking about installing a CAS what is that, and would i need one or doe the engines already come with them?

Thanks-Jon-

Post by **Daunttless** » Sat Aug 10, 2002 12:53 pm

1) The Apexi V-AFC is the Vtec Air/Fuel Controller, the S-AFC is the Super Air/Fuel Controller and is for cars without Vtec, so everything except a honda. : )

2) Yes, you should get motor mounts, the KA ones are crappy, my engines come with the SR ones, but if you want excellent mounts aftermarket are the way to go.

3) I don't know how hard it is for you to convert the wiring harness, thats something only you can answer. : )

4) Yes, you can hold off on the turbo timer, modern cars don't need to be cooled excessively unless they've been driven extremely hard beforehand, it doesn't take more than a minute to cool your car down when its idling. Unless its a rotary, then I like to let it cool for a while. : )

5) I can get you a boost gauge, price depends on brand.

6) My engines come with the stock intercooler piping and stock recirculating valve. You can get an aftermarket BOV if you prefer.

7) If you don't understand what heavy throttle says, no offense but you're probably in trouble, they offer a wiring harness service, and I'll also be offering a wiring harness service ( most likely ).

8) If you have a 89 or 90, you'll need to replace your tach, if you have a 91+ your gauges will work with the SR20. I sell the JDM gauge cluster for 100 dollars, a lot of people like to buy them to swap out the tachs anyways as the JDM ones have a higher redline.

9) You don't need an electric fan so long as you have the radiator shroud from the SR20, or you trim the SR20 clutch fan. You can use electric fans if you so desire.

10) CAS is the Crank Angle Sensor, the engine comes with it.

Enjoy your day!

Post by **94teggy** » Sat Aug 10, 2002 12:53 pm

Okay well as far as the boost gauge goes i'd probably want the least expensive but functional one i could get(plus what about a manual boost controller price) since i guess i'll get motor mounts and the wiring done for me since i'm not to confident with the wiring.

If i get you to do the wiring harness i have to send you the 240sx harness right? How much would you charge to do this?

What is the difference between the recirculating valve and a BOV...just the sound?

And finally, are your swaps pre-order and then you wait for the shipment of engines from Japan or do you keep them in stock, and how long would it take to get the engine...I'm trying to get a rough estimate of how much downtime to expect so i can set up a ride to and from school while i have no car. And you said shipping would be about 300 right...even with all the other stuff i'd order from you?

Peace-Jon-

Post by **Daunttless** » Sat Aug 10, 2002 12:53 pm

1) You'd probably want an autometer gauge.

2) Manual Boost control depends on what unit you buy, I don't have any prices offhand for manual, most people are moving away from manual boost unless they install it themselves.

3) Correct, you would need to send me your complete KA harness, we'll have some in stock so that we can start wiring as soon as you pay, but we'll have to receive a harness to replace it before we send the engine out. Additionally, we're looking to charge about 200 dollars to do it.

4) The recirculating reroutes the air out and then back in, a BOV can recirculate as well. A BOV is just a valve that releases the air that slams into the closed throttle body when you shift. Recirculating keeps it in the system, atmospheric releases it to the air, atmospheric are the kind you hear.

5) We will be keeping them in stock after this first shipment. Dependant upon demand we'll be bringing in shipments every 3-5 weeks. After I get this first shipping mess taken care of, I'll have fairly regular arrival dates that you are welcome to wait for, or put a deposit down to guarantee that you'll have an engine on that shipment. We will not be doing pre-ordering after this shipment unless its a special order item, then there will be a pre-order.

6) Yep, shipping would be about 300, and so long as I can fit everything in the crate, it will be free. If I can't fit anything in the crate, there will be an additional shipping charge.

Enjoy your day!

Post by **94teggy** » Sat Aug 10, 2002 12:53 pm

Okay, i was just gonna get a manual boost controller until i can get an electronic one and then i'd probably sell the manual one to my friend since his manual one on his '84 300z is shot.

So the recirculating valve keeps the air from going back to the turbo when you shift just like a BOV, just with no sound?

And since i'll probably get an '89 or '90 240 i guess i'd need the gauge cluster from a 91+(or could i just get the tach part and swap that instead of the whole cluster) or the JDM one...is there a way to have the JDM ones read out in mph or would i just have to learn kmh?

And i guess i'll attempt the harness myself since i'll be going further over my budget with the motor mounts, boost gauge, boost controller, and a gauge cluster or just a tach.

Thanks again-Jon-

Post by **Daunttless** » Sat Aug 10, 2002 12:53 pm

Unfortunately, I only sell the complete cluster, you can pick and mix though. The JDM Cluster is no different in design than the USDM cluster, only it reads in KMPH and has a high redline Tach. You can just take the tach out and put it in the USDM cluster, or switch the MPH and odometer with the KMPH from the JDM, whichever one you'd rather use. : )

Post by **94teggy** » Sat Aug 10, 2002 12:53 pm

Alright so the only thing that matters as far as the cluster is concerned is the tach...so if i don't care about the redline could i just get the tach from a 91+ USDM 240 and put it on the old cluster?

And also are there any cheaper intercoolers(preferably around $500, like i hear Spearco thrown around alot by the honda crowd) other than greddy or blitz that will still be efficient enough for me to run a max of 14 or 15 psi because i doubt i'll ever upgrade to a bigger turbo and if i do then i'd just sell the intercooler i had to my same friend with the 300z and then put that $$ toward a bigger intercooler.

Do you have a diagram or instructions on how to remove the ka engine and then how to install the SR20, like where to position the chains or straps on the engine hoist?

-Jon-

Post by **Daunttless** » Sat Aug 10, 2002 12:53 pm

Yes, you can use a USDM tach. I only deal in intercooler kits, from apexi, blitz, and greddy, if you want something like a spearco you'd have to source it yourself and have custom piping made. And in regards to a diagram, no I don't. Enjoy your day!

Post by **94teggy** » Sat Aug 10, 2002 12:53 pm

Alright thanks...I'll let ya know how everything plays out after Christmas and if i have anymore questions i'll post them on here or IM you on AIM.

Thanks for all your help, i really appreciate it.

Peace-Jon-

Post by **Daunttless** » Sat Aug 10, 2002 12:53 pm

Sure, enjoy your day.

Post by **Tai Mai Shu** » Sat Aug 10, 2002 12:53 pm

This thred is still here? weird...I already started my Project 180

Post by **94teggy** » Sat Aug 10, 2002 12:53 pm

haha yeah it's still here...i saw it and was like "ooh i'm wondering the same thing". Sorry that i kinda took your thread over.

So how's your project coming along?

Good luck-Jon-

Post by **DonDonati88** » Sat Aug 10, 2002 12:53 pm

How is everything going 94teggy? Did you get a 240...

And what about your project 180 Tai Mai Shu?

Post by **94teggy** » Sat Aug 10, 2002 12:53 pm

Well sorry to say, no i haven't gotten one yer. I still have to sell my car and run the idea by my dad(which i'm hoping to do this weekend). I have found a few within 100 miles of me, so the pickins are pretty slim. But hey at least my mom is cool with the idea

. I'm just trying to get all my info right before i get really serious...recently i've been pondering the wiring(even had a dream about it)...but other than that i've just gotta see how things play out with my dad.

Peace,-Jon-

Post by **implict** » Sat Aug 10, 2002 12:53 pm

Daunttless wrote:Thats because 99.9999999% of the board members love me. : )

I love daunt :bshake :boink

Post by **Daunttless** » Sat Aug 10, 2002 12:53 pm

Join the club. : )

Post by **implict** » Sat Aug 10, 2002 12:53 pm

i joined 245 posts ageo :ylsuper

Basic cost for SR20DET

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