Auto to Manual Writeup (5 speed conversion)

ONLY for ADVANCED technical discussion about the 240sx!
rsagen
Posts: 237
Joined: Wed Jun 10, 2009 7:54 pm
Car: 1989 240SX Coupe 5sp SOLD
1989 240SX Hatch auto SOLD
1990 240SX Coupe auto WRECKED
1990 240SX Hatch auto
1990 Jetta Turbodiesel 5sp FEILD BAGGED
1997 Jimmy 4WD
1985 Chev Wrangler
1994 F150 4X4

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300hp owen wrote:I dont think so but that would be awesome if you could. I bet a lot of the parts are identical (clutch release fork, tailshaft cover, etc)
it wont work, trust me I have tryed. the truck tranny is 3 inches shorter. seems like a peice of cake if you get a driveshaft extension, but then trying to figure out what to do on the shifter.....

as for the flywheel and clutch and everything.... the truck has a 1 inch bigger diameter on the flywheel and the clutch, therefore being heavier. its also 30 bucks cheaper at NAPA for a new clutch kit.

with the truck flywheel and clutch on my car tranny (bolts together just the same) I think its pretty well impossible to stall the car. I can almost drop the clutch in 1st without it stalling with no revs


jerry130891
Posts: 5
Joined: Fri Jun 06, 2008 6:27 am
Car: 1998 Nissan 240sx LE

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Hi, I am just going to swap tranny to my 98 240sx, and i saw this thread a couple months ago... but i just enter again, and all of the pics disappeared, can someone help me with this?? I realy could use this info to make the swap correctly.. thanks!

jerry130891
Posts: 5
Joined: Fri Jun 06, 2008 6:27 am
Car: 1998 Nissan 240sx LE

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please... I really need it... the pics are a huge help!

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FusionR300zx
Posts: 1889
Joined: Tue Jul 11, 2006 6:09 pm
Car: 1993 300zx/1997 240sx
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where did the pics go? i need them.

jerry130891
Posts: 5
Joined: Fri Jun 06, 2008 6:27 am
Car: 1998 Nissan 240sx LE

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FusionR300zx wrote:where did the pics go? i need them.
+ 100000000

JDMskrilla
Posts: 107
Joined: Fri Jan 02, 2009 9:22 am
Car: 1997 240sx se

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obg3506 wrote:Anybody figure out the Cruise Control!!!! I need it bad, lead foot!
I had the same problem but it was because I had the wrong speed sensor. I had the s13 speed sensor and it was causing my spedo to read double. well cruise control wont work under like 30mph or over like 90 or 100mph (not sure on the maximum, never tested it). Anyways as soon as i got the right sensor the cruise control started to work so now when I'm going 60mph it doesn't read 120 and the cruise control works.

love_my_s14.5
Posts: 24
Joined: Sat Jul 10, 2010 8:23 am
Car: 1996 240 SE with S15 front end----current
1995 240 with kouki front end----totaled it=(
Location: Los Angeles

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Hey guys I'm about to finish up my swap.....all I need is to inject the 5 speed into the motor.....and well none of my automatic connectors fit on my OBDII transmission except for the CAS and I was wondering is that all you need to at least drive the car.......PLEASE LEMME KNOW

MyNISMO314
Posts: 384
Joined: Tue Jan 13, 2009 10:11 am
Car: 91 SE Coupe w/red top sr20det(currently for sale)
Location: #1 crime city in USA

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bought a car with a 5 speed swap already in it...the problem i got is the guy put the factory bleeder hoses and all and now my clutch gets stuck in when i push it in and today all the damn fluid leaked out...did you bypass that factory stuff somehow or what...i tried adding more fluid and pumping the clutch but looks like the hose had enough and it just keeps leaking out...i was told i can bypass it but i asked the guy how and still hasnt answered so trying my luck here

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moso
Posts: 801
Joined: Sat Jul 04, 2009 5:14 pm
Car: 89 240sx ka24de 5spd
90 240sx ka24de RIP

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even if you bypass the clutch dampener you still need that rubber hose that goes to the slave cylinder. buy a new one or buy a braided clutch line.

MyNISMO314
Posts: 384
Joined: Tue Jan 13, 2009 10:11 am
Car: 91 SE Coupe w/red top sr20det(currently for sale)
Location: #1 crime city in USA

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moso wrote:even if you bypass the clutch dampener you still need that rubber hose that goes to the slave cylinder. buy a new one or buy a braided clutch line.
so my only problem is the clutch line? ive looked on here to which one it is but cant find it

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moso
Posts: 801
Joined: Sat Jul 04, 2009 5:14 pm
Car: 89 240sx ka24de 5spd
90 240sx ka24de RIP

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MyNISMO314 wrote:
moso wrote:even if you bypass the clutch dampener you still need that rubber hose that goes to the slave cylinder. buy a new one or buy a braided clutch line.
so my only problem is the clutch line? ive looked on here to which one it is but cant find it

I cant say "that is your only problem". i can say "if your trying to bypass anything in the clutch system the only thing to bypass is the clutch dampener". i can also say "if your bypassing the clutch dampener and the rubber hose is leaking you need to replace it or change out the entire line to a braided hose" but that really depends on how much loot you want to spend. i can also say "if your having trouble with your hydraulic clutch its best to replace both the master and slave at the same time because they are so cheap" however that is a matter of opinion.

MyNISMO314
Posts: 384
Joined: Tue Jan 13, 2009 10:11 am
Car: 91 SE Coupe w/red top sr20det(currently for sale)
Location: #1 crime city in USA

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yea ive seen circuit sport and couple of others have a 52" braided steel line the goes all the way from the MC to the SC and i think i will replace both cylinders as well just to be on the safe side and because they are cheap as well...but thanks for your help i tried looking around more and had no luck. :dblthumb:

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driftneil
Posts: 3256
Joined: Wed Mar 28, 2007 5:11 am
Car: A pile of cars.

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Its simple bro...Just get the auto to manual conversion braided line from "FR sport" (or any place) And that goes right into the slave...So that takes care of your split rubber hose, and also deletes the dampener.
Then all you need to do, is attach the line to your master, but not the slave...Fill the master, and have a friend keep it topped off. And point the slave end of the line at the ground till it pours fluid. Attach to slave, and boom done. No need to bleed...USUALLY.
Good luck
Oh...Push the pedal to the floor, as well.

mattaltima99
Posts: 47
Joined: Sat Feb 12, 2011 8:31 pm
Car: 1999 Nissan Altima KA24DE, Spectra Cold Air intake, OBX 4-1 Headers, OBX 10.36 Spark Wires, Flowmaster super 44

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Is there a difference in the auto and manual drive shafts? Cant you use a s13 auto drive shaft with an s13 5spd tranny?

thienthan
Posts: 92
Joined: Wed Dec 07, 2005 2:21 pm

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Can I use a s13 manual drive shaft for a s14 5 speed conversion with no abs?

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diggles240
Posts: 518
Joined: Thu Feb 14, 2008 7:27 pm
Car: 1996 240sx SE
2005 Altima 2.5S

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^ nope

^^ nope

the FSM has the 1st and 2nd shaft lengths [spider to spider] that will show you the difference in length per model, ABS, etc.

stuart003
Posts: 1
Joined: Mon May 07, 2012 8:47 pm
Car: S14

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How did u manage to only spend 400 to 500 $$$ on parts/tools?

PHRINCE_S14
Posts: 2
Joined: Sun Aug 05, 2012 12:09 am
Car: Drives a 95 S14 ZENKI

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Fam0uZ wrote:Im new here and im doing the A/T to M/T conv. following this write up but i have some questions.

1.what would happen if I dont swap to manual ECU??2. I have a 95 Se which comes with ABS but the driveshaft that i found its a non-ABS is that going to give me any problems? 3.Can i buy the m/t bolt in a hardware store?b/c in miami there are about 12 junkyards and 0 s14 in them lol
Modified by Fam0uZ at 10:35 AM 9/10/2008
As stated above the write up: CEL readings would always pop up, and you need to get an ABS driveshaft because your car is an SE model.. And I'm just curious about those wheels on that Zenki. What kind of wheels are those? would also like to know the sizes and offsets. thanks :laugh:

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S14Magician
Posts: 112
Joined: Thu Apr 15, 2010 6:26 pm
Car: 1995 Nissan 240sx

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okay so ive researched this in a few places and would like a confermation i have a 95 obd 1 s14 ive pulled everything for my swap from a s13 ive read that all the parta will work on my car true or not. non abs

KDF_S13
Posts: 2
Joined: Fri Nov 15, 2013 4:39 pm

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Se7in wrote:just did the swap this weekend in my 93, i never knew how easy it could be. I was expecting the worst, but these write ups helped me to be prepared. The only problem that we ran into was that there is a dowel in the top of the trans bellhousing that goes into the engine, but the dowel stayed with the block, and it was a major PITA to figure out, but we caught on fast and after that it went smooth. to those about to attempt the swap, make sure you have at least one extra set of hands to help and have fun with it, now if only these break in miles go quickly...

I am having the same problem with the dowels on the the block and the tranny. Which one did you remove and did you drill the dowel out?

Nic.Vanders123
Posts: 1
Joined: Thu Apr 06, 2017 7:22 pm
Car: Nissan Silvia s13

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I am looking to do the same conversion to an S13 silvia. What are the differances between this conversion and an s13 conversion?

L0N3S0M3R4NG3R
Posts: 5
Joined: Fri Jan 19, 2018 10:57 pm
Car: 98 S14 FL

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So just to help avoid any confusion i have a 98 S14 SR20DE auto that i'm manual converting with the help of this guide and everything went smoothly until i got to the auto adapter bushing/bearing. I tried putting grease in the crank and then pushing a bolt down to pop the adapter out, no luck it just made a mess... i then tried a slide hammer (only had one jaw..) it kept slipping off.. i then tried sticking my jack and rachet handles in to pry it out, no luck... i then got serious and kinda worried as there weren't many pics of SR conversions most of them are KA24 one's. I then borrowed a rotary tool off a mate and cut it as you can see in the pics. Still no luck. Then i went to Repco (A NZ Automotive Chain) and got the pilot bushing puller(3 jaw Toledo one) which was $100NZD no luck... it kept sliding off the groove even though the teeth had a nice edge. i then tried drilling it and attacking it with various cold chisels.. made more damage to it but it didn't move.. I then tried Die grinding it where i had drilled which helped remove some metal until i broke the die bit.. by this point all shops were shut and i grabbed the biggest punch i had lying around and smacked on a segment (i had made with the rotary tool) from the outside . Success!!!!!! It cocked off on an angle and i stuck the punch inside and pried it a different way and it came off!!!. This took me about 8 and a half hours between going to shops and trying different methods PICS (hopefully they work) sorry if theyre s*** but it was an easy way to upload them on Facebook https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_ ... 0555279061


Cheers Phill

amc49
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Joined: Mon Jun 19, 2017 7:24 pm
Car: '11 Nissan Versa
'17 Nissan Altima

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Measure the OD of the hole next time before you butcher it and use an appropriate tap to tap thread into it and then use a grade bolt of same thread and yank it with that, comes out easily.

The packing grease thing works perfectly too if the part you are whacking on is very close tolerance to the hole, I'm guessing your bolt wasn't and why it didn't work. I've done that one several times too and not once has it failed.
Last edited by amc49 on Sat Jan 20, 2018 2:28 am, edited 2 times in total.

L0N3S0M3R4NG3R
Posts: 5
Joined: Fri Jan 19, 2018 10:57 pm
Car: 98 S14 FL

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Yeah I'd seen others just cut it so I though it'd work. I tried having sockets slightly smaller and hammering it in them levering by hitting the socket to the side with the hammer, similar effect to what you're getting at with the bolt, it did dawn on me the bolt idea but I didn't have a big enough tap and it was cut up by then

L0N3S0M3R4NG3R
Posts: 5
Joined: Fri Jan 19, 2018 10:57 pm
Car: 98 S14 FL

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Is there anyway to get around the check engine light if im having a s13 gearbox in the s14 FL. I'd like to be able to put a resistor in the wire or something , rather than removing the gearbox and drilling the bell housing for the cas sensor

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centralcoaster33
Posts: 2769
Joined: Tue Apr 05, 2005 10:41 am
Car: 240SX #5-1997
Location: Central Coast, CA

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I don't think so if your CEL is for the CAS. The CAS reads pulses of impedance and those are supposed to match the RPMs of the engine, so it's not a constant signal. You should have drilled holes for it when it was out. That would have been an easy fix. Hindsight is 20/20 though, right? If you're dealing with smog tests, take it off and do it right. After the fourth time you're getting pretty quick at dropping the tranny anyway. Do you have a manual transmission ECU?

L0N3S0M3R4NG3R
Posts: 5
Joined: Fri Jan 19, 2018 10:57 pm
Car: 98 S14 FL

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I just wanted the car driving as my daily was broken and was easier to put the gearbox in on the project silvia. Put the s13 gearbox in the s14 without the cas sensor in the bellhousing and without the auto gearbox controller and I guess I lucked out!!! No check engine lights! :D but yes the light does work coz it comes on as the test when you set the key to ignition. Hope this helps clear up questions people might have my car was a 1998 sr20 s14. Thanks

L0N3S0M3R4NG3R
Posts: 5
Joined: Fri Jan 19, 2018 10:57 pm
Car: 98 S14 FL

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Sorry no I don't have to do smog tests in New Zealand and No I'm running the auto ecu


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