ARGH!!! Turbo Coolant Line Housing On Block

Discuss topics related to the CA18DE and CA18DET series engines.
DjLiquid
Posts: 461
Joined: Mon Mar 07, 2005 2:32 pm
Car: 1988 Nissan Pulsar

Post

The engine I got needed a bit of a fix up. Since the headgasket was blown, the coolant in all the lines gel'd up and made a mess of everything. I got all new hoses and lines for everything and when it came to putting everything back together I overlooked something. I forgot to take a look at the turbo line housings that are screwed into the block. The biggest of the two I took out first. I put some varsol in the top of the housing and it was so plugged up that it wouldnt go through.. I had to puncture a hole through the thick goo and then scrub it all out. Once it was clean I cleaned out the threads inside the block and all the left over residue that was inside there as well. Then came the other turbo housing by the idler pulley bracket. At first, it was fairly easy to take off and it felt weird. About a second later the bloody thing was on the ground.........minus thee threads!!

I figured since the entire block was cleaned out and there wasnt a speck of dust in there that I should try and remove the remainding threads by screwing in a screw to open the hole a little bigger so I can stick something in there to unscrew it from the block. I used some WD40 and stuck in a Phillips head screw driver and when I tried twisting it, the f*ckin head snapped off in it. A portion of it was sticking out so i used some vice grips to try and unscrew it still. When this didnt work I pulled it out and decided that another phillips head would be best again. This time I grabbed a tempered phillips head bit. Both sides were squared off so I grabbed a hammer and got it back in the block without much trouble.. I then grabbed some vice grips and went at it again... about 5 minutes of very little progress it started to give way.......the bit F*CKING SNAPPED OFF AGAIN!!!

Now the bit is sitting completely flush to the engine. Im totally out of idea's because I dont want to do more damage. Im in need of a new housing and a turbo line. I figured I should just pick up some of the steel braided lines that were posted earlier on this month and use those. But for the housing, im in trouble.. Any idea's?

Here's some pics:

http://members.shaw.ca/ca18det/fup/fup1.jpg

http://members.shaw.ca/ca18det/fup/fup2.jpg

http://members.shaw.ca/ca18det/fup/fup3.jpg

http://members.shaw.ca/ca18det/fup/fup4.jpg

http://members.shaw.ca/ca18det/fup/fup5.jpg


User avatar
mikesim
Posts: 277
Joined: Sun Apr 25, 2004 8:49 am

Post

i'd buy a cobalt drill bit and drill it out.

DjLiquid
Posts: 461
Joined: Mon Mar 07, 2005 2:32 pm
Car: 1988 Nissan Pulsar

Post

is that something i can pick up at crappy tire?

User avatar
c-rad
Posts: 2584
Joined: Sun Sep 19, 2004 5:10 pm
Car: 1991 Nissan 240SX w/CA18DET
Contact:

Post

Ok, first off, that's the oil feed line that's messed up, not the coolant return. Your going to need an easy out, or something to that effect, then most likely a helicoil kit or at minumum, a thread chaser. Regardless though, you're going to need to clean out the passages as there will be metal from the drilling, re-threading in the passages.

pulsar gtr
Posts: 1221
Joined: Tue Sep 03, 2002 12:22 pm
Car: NISSAN VEHICLES
Contact:

Post

Cory,

You could never stop to amaze me man, lol.

That is one nasty break. you definitely need to drill it out and re-thread it .

Also, that is called an oil restrictor, if you don't use it, too much oil will go through the turbo and you might end up with blown turbo seals.

I might have an extra one, If I find it, I will send it your way.

Try not to drop as much as possible of the metal shaving in the journals.

Best bet, since you don't have the tools to do it, is to take the engine to a good machine shop and get them to take care of it. Your luck is as good as mine lol

Keep me posted.

WeldingHank
Posts: 559
Joined: Tue Jan 27, 2004 8:07 am
Car: 1989 240sx CA18DET

Post

an easy-out would work well in this situation. drill a hole in it slightly smaller than the easy out (which should be smaller than the fitting anyways) and tap the easy out in with a hammer. then turn it out, i have never had a problem with an easy-out, when so many people have cursed them.

DjLiquid
Posts: 461
Joined: Mon Mar 07, 2005 2:32 pm
Car: 1988 Nissan Pulsar

Post

thanks guys =)

User avatar
float_6969
Moderator
Posts: 17366
Joined: Mon Aug 26, 2002 1:55 pm
Car: CA18DET swapped 1995 Nissan 240sx (too many mods to list)
2015 SV Leaf w/QC & Bose (daily)
Location: Topeka, Kansas
Contact:

Post

Let us know if you get it out, and how you did it. I would try the easy out first, and then take it to a shop if that doesn't work.

DjLiquid
Posts: 461
Joined: Mon Mar 07, 2005 2:32 pm
Car: 1988 Nissan Pulsar

Post

as far as a replacement part, will a CA20ET or a CA18ET oil resistor do the job?

pulsar gtr
Posts: 1221
Joined: Tue Sep 03, 2002 12:22 pm
Car: NISSAN VEHICLES
Contact:

Post

I have a feeling a one from the ca18et will work fine, as the block is very similar.

RafiPULSAR GTR


Return to “CA18DE / CA18DET Forum”