For those of us who perform our own oil / filter changes, this should be of interest to you. Personally, I have all my changes done at the dealer to get their complete inspection (and I hope they actually do them). My dealer only offers two choices for oil: a synthetic "blend" or standard oil, so I bring my own Mobil-1 and pay a significantly reduced charge. However, I allow them to use their OEM oil filter. After watching this video, I'm on a mission to find out who makes oil filters for Infiniti / Nissan and based on my findings, I may start providing my own filter as well as my own oil.

My dealer uses full syn Mobile 1.

I believe they use Nissan filters.
Oil seem to get dirty quick so u Tim it to a service center and the so full syn Valvaline with the Valvaline filter.

It does appear that the Valvaline is starting cleaner longer.

Amsoil and several others have better filtration than Nissan but I don't know that to be true scientifically.

Andy

What I have found so far:
Nissan oil filters are NOT made in Japan or China. In fact not in Asia at all. They are made in Mexico.
They have metal end caps, silicone anti-drain valve, but a metal flex plate instead of actual spring and a rubber gasket with a thick outer canister with non-synthetic media. I have ordered an actual OEM filter from Amazon and will dismantle it when it arrives. That should be the final word.
Also, since I always use synthetic oil, I have also ordered a synthetic oil filter for comparison.

Here's a "cut-away" analysis of Miata oil filters i did nearly 16 years ago--nothing much has changed. If you really want to know cut some open and examine them yourself...

I've been extremely happy with Pennzoil Platinum or Ultra Platinum and the FRAM XG7317 Ultra Synthetic (previously "Xtra Guard"). These are top-of-the-line, not Fram Orange Cans of Death. They are highly regarded on BITOG. The model I use is for the M56, but also fits on the M37 - it's just bigger so it has more filter media and more capacity - same bypass pressure relief.

I extended my OCIs to 7500 miles with no problems. I've even used these Fram oil filters for 2 OCIs, although with the same amount of work to remove it, drain it of oil, and cleanup is still the same as replacing it, so I just replace them each OCI again. I have no doubt these filters have plenty of life left even with 15,000 miles on them.

If you've been watching the Project Farm channel on Youtube where he tests virgin and "cooked" oils, so far Pennzoil Platinum seems to be a top contender.

I always walk into my local Infiniti dealer and buy a oem oil filter from them. for Oil i use Pennzoil Ultra Platinum Full Synthetic for the M

RESEARCH COMPLETE - MY FINAL DECISION

I started this journey to decide on the best filter for my car based on my driving situation: high average outside temperature, mix of high speed motorway and city, use of synthetic oil. I was expecting to do my research, compile data, compare media size, interior parts quality and construction, and end up with one clear choice for the best filter.
What I ended up with was a smorgasbord of data. The easy part was chucking the filters that I decided were cheaply made with low quality parts. That part of my research was over in no time. I was left with a list that included Nissan OEM (which I have used since purchase of the car) and 3-4 other brands - each having one feature of construction that made them preferable to OEM but those other filters had features that made my OEM filter preferable. After much reading, research, and head scratching, here is what it came down to. I changed my goal.

In spite of all the claims regarding longevity of oil and filters, I have not been swayed from my position that oil and filter, regardless of synthetic or standard, MUST be changed at least yearly or every 3-5 thousand miles - whichever comes first. WAIT, you say ... some oils and filters guarantee a lifespan much longer than that. Right ... but that guarantee is not likely going to be honored due to the plethora of conditions, loopholes, and fine print from the manufacturer which will cancel that warranty in most claims - Also, in the fine print on the package, they instruct you to "follow the manufacturer recommendations while under warranty". That should tell you something! I reckon they are counting those 20,000 miles as constant hwy speeds which cause only 10% of the wear that regular city driving causes. So I say buy them if you like, but change them per the golden rule above.

EFFICIENCY: This is probably the most difficult to determine. Depending on the brand, most report 99% efficiency between 25 - 30 microns. They are ALL effective at smaller particles, they just don't bother to post those results as they probably will differ greatly and they want to avoid any deeper examination, lest they be less efficient than a competitor at 10 microns. Reading between the lines, it's safe to say that they are ALL less than 99% efficient at anything smaller than 25 microns Different types (cellulose Vs synthetic Vs micro glass) of media can also have an effect on how 'easily' oil can flow through it. Media can also differ by square inches of surface area. However a larger surface area doesn't mean all that much if that media slows the flow of oil through it. Some filter media also has a wire mesh backing, but there is evidence that this design 'can' increase pressure inside the canister. Synthetic media is a blend that provides a kind of 3D surface area which will trap more particles per square inch than the typical cellulose (paper) media. Therefore, simply comparing square inches of media between synthetic and cellulose material is useless. Synthetic material will absorb more with less area so less area does not mean lower efficiency. Some experts claim synthetic oil filters may not be effective with non-synthetic oils, but any good quality standard oil filter is effective with both standard and synthetic oils. However, none of these 'experts' go on to explain why. Now that we are completely confused on how to choose the best media, let's move on.

CONSTRUCTION: There are differences in how a filter is constructed and the quality of materials used, but basically, like so many other things, you get what you pay for. You will not find a good or high quality filter at a low price. The lower the price, the cheaper and lower the quality of the parts. Cheap oil filters use cardboard instead of metal, less durable glues, low quality rubber in place of silicone, thin flimsy canisters, weak anti drain back valves, etc.
Conversely, going full on and buying the filter a high premium price might just be a bit too far.

After lots of eye squinting and head scratching, I decided there are too many variables by which to judge filters, and it seems this is how the manufacturers like it. So the best I could do is set a minimum standard that must be met by any oil filter I will consider.

MY STANDARDS: metal end braces, a nitrile/rubber engine seal, a silicone anti drain-back valve, a metal inner core, a sturdy metal bypass mechanism, and a thick, sturdy outer canister. I decided that there isn't any one specific feature other than these that would outrank one filter if the rest of that same filter did not meet my standards. Also, since I am not willing to lengthen my interval between changes, I didn't consider the longer lifespans claimed by some of the filters. I stand by my decision that reducing a $50 oil change expense 2-3 times per year is not important enough to risk higher engine temps, lower oil viscosity, and higher filter pressures which lead to engine damage. That said ... a 20,000 mile filter is no better than the 10,000 mile filter if both are chucked after 4,000 miles. Therefore, just how expensive and fancy does an oil filter need to be? This is where my minimum standard saves the day. The most high end filters such as Royal Purple, etc have good reasons for charging higher prices. However, if I you're going to chuck them every 4-5,000 miles, will your engine benefit from them? The answer is not likely, no.

So, where did all of this leave me? I ignored the hype, the claims, and compared each filter based on my minimum standards. I considered Mobil-1, Wix, K&N, and Pennzoil. That said, all were very close regarding quality of materials, filter media, surface area, filtering particles, and price. It's worth noting that Mobil-1 and Royal Purple have exactly the same tapping plates with the same hole design and etching marks, the same canister thickness, and identical anti drain back valve design. But Royal Purple has the wire mesh that is under debate regarding high filter pressures. The other brands were less impressive, but only slightly. So I decided I will switch to Mobil-1 (M1-108 for my car). The price is about $10-12 on Amazon with free 2-day delivery for prime members. Remember, I have been using the OEM filter on my car since purchase (2013) and there is no oil loss between changes, and no ill effects. I am switching to the Mobil-1 filter because many articles recommend a synthetic filter for synthetic oil and it "filters more efficiently" - though nobody goes on to explain specifically how or why. The price difference is less than $5 so even if it doesn't filter better in a huge way, it's just $15 per year extra for me. Soooo, if you want to spend $15-20 per filter, by all means, have at it. But if you chuck them every 5,000 miles, you won't get your money's worth unless you tempt fate and leave them for 10,000 miles - and your car's warranty will be voided for any related damages they can connect to your long oil change interval.

What about non-synthetic oil filters? I did the same research as above with 5 brands and the results surprised me. The OEM filter (15208/65F0E for my car) very nearly good as most high priced brands. My dealer recommends changes every 3,700 miles for standard oil. The OEM filter does not contain an actual coil spring bypass but has a sturdy stamped metal spring mechanism and a built-in metal bypass valve. The mobil-1 filter uses a coil spring with bypass, but costs about $5 more. I found no proof that either design is better than the other. Both are very sturdy and durable, but the Mobil-1 filter is at least a smidge better.

CONCLUSION: My NON-certified mechanic recommendation is Mobil-1 for synthetic oil and OEM or standard Mobil-1 for standard oil. It all comes down to some basic principles:
1) realize that very low priced oil and filters = very low quality oil and filters while paying $15 more may not mean $15 better
2) oil, regardless of synthetic or standard will lose viscosity, degrade with temps, and remember the health of that oil determines the health of your engine
3) the filter is the only thing that stands between you and dirty, thin oil that will cause excessive wear and engine trouble
4) changing the oil and filter regularly is at least as important as which brand you use

dissection of the OEM filter:

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dissection of Mobil-1 standard filter

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details of synthetic Mobil-1, Royal Purple, etc:

Larz - I always connect with your research and analysis and fully agree on this one. I just use regular dino oil and change it and the filter every 3000 miles. I've never had to add oil in between oil changes, which is a critical indication of engine wear. I've been using a combination of the OEM filter and Bosch filters, but may now stick to either the OEM or WIX filters going forward.

Thank you for the great write-ups!
Kerry

Ty Kerry. Actually, I didn't go into much detail about the Wix filter, but that brand did very well under scrutiny. I believe the Wix filter uses an actual coil spring with the bypass, which OEM does not. It's not clear if an actual coil spring is better, but it clearly can't hurt.