Hey Ryon, are you still working at Alorica?

If you don't get on AIM too much anymore feel free to give me a call sometime.

Tulsa_S-13 wrote:

Tulsa_S-13 wrote:I installed my R32 R200V a couple weeks ago and now the car can finally utilize 13psi. Acceleration with the 4.36:1 FD is amazing, haven't taken it out on any main roads yet and won't be able to until bodywork/ paint is finished.

TAKE ME FOR A SPIN!

datsun2401972 wrote:
The house I'm moving in had a two car garage...so hopefully i'll get a little motivated.

Hahahaha not having space is really irritating. I don't blame you.

Tulsa_S-13 wrote:Hey Ryon, are you still working at Alorica?

If you don't get on AIM too much anymore feel free to give me a call sometime.

Nah I have a new job in a Machine shop. I'll give you a ring once my crankshaft comes back from Carrillo's in California.

redtop91 wrote:Nah I have a new job in a Machine shop. I'll give you a ring once my crankshaft comes back from Carrillo's in California.

Are you getting it knife edged?

I personally don't have any experience with knife edged cranks, but a friend of mine who does(with 4g63's) doesn't like it for street cars...forgot why tho

What machine shop? Strictly automotive or just general fabrication?

redtop91 wrote:TAKE ME FOR A SPIN!

ME TOO!@#...or maybe not since you really don't know who I am or anything...

datsun2401972 wrote:
Are you getting it knife edged?

I decided against it. Apparently it causes balancing issues with the bottom end unless you have one place knife edge and balance the whole rotating assembly. The Eagle rods are soooooo much lighter than the stock SR rods I think the bottom end is light enough. The machine shop I work in is called Gear Products Inc. I run a couple CNC cutters that cut the Gear teeth into big old steel blanks. The gears are used for the rotating ladders on fire trucks or dump trucks so I also machine the ball path for the ball bearing insert. It's pretty freakin cool, has excellent benefits and pays outstanding.

datsun2401972 wrote:
ME TOO!@#...or maybe not since you really don't know who I am or anything...

Haha, no problem. I'm starting to hear this on a regular basis now. I think it's safe to say I'm the only person in the world rocking a T25 and people still wanting to ride in my car lol.

Last machine shop I worked at, I heard a story about a guy that cut gear teeth.

The gear was soooo big that it took at least a whole shift to cut one tooth.

This old man that cut em would setup the machine, start cutting....and go to sleep for the whole shift. Then wake up stop the machine clock out and start his day of freedom....

Lemme know when you get tired of cutting teeth. I can prolly get you on at McKissick for over $15/hour starting. It is a union shop, and top out for CNC operators is over $20/hour. And all they want are button pushers, no knowledge of programming is neccessary .

Tulsa-s13: What kinda boost are you pushing? Stock t25? I'm very close to just saying **** the t25 and going with a treadstone cast mani for top mount 30r setup...but if I like your setup hell that'll save me moniiiieeeessss!

Names Matt btw...

redtop91 wrote:
I decided against it. Apparently it causes balancing issues with the bottom end unless you have one place knife edge and balance the whole rotating assembly. The Eagle rods are soooooo much lighter than the stock SR rods I think the bottom end is light enough. The machine shop I work in is called Gear Products Inc. I run a couple CNC cutters that cut the Gear teeth into big old steel blanks. The gears are used for the rotating ladders on fire trucks or dump trucks so I also machine the ball path for the ball bearing insert. It's pretty freakin cool, has excellent benefits and pays outstanding.

Ok, so went the firetruck breaks down and my apartment burns down I know who to blame.

datsun2401972 wrote:Tulsa-s13: What kinda boost are you pushing? Stock t25? I'm very close to just saying **** the t25 and going with a treadstone cast mani for top mount 30r setup...but if I like your setup hell that'll save me moniiiieeeessss!

My build is centered on the idea of response and streetability. I'm running a stock T25 rebuilt by GPOP Shop at 13psi. Unlike a lot of people I have a fairly modest power goal of around 280-300rwhp, which of course I won't reach with my T25. My next turbo will probably be an S14 T28 as this will give me awesome response but at the same time give decent top end.

Most people that have ridden in my car seem to be pretty surprised at how well it runs with mild bolt-ons. Switching to the 4.36:1 final drive seems to have made a huge difference.

I probably won't have the car "finished" and ready to drive around until the end of July. I still have lots of body work to do but I just haven't had time to mess with it.

Names Dave by the way

Ok, that was too easy a post...I'll add some text.....done.

datsun2401972 wrote:Last machine shop I worked at, I heard a story about a guy that cut gear teeth.

The gear was soooo big that it took at least a whole shift to cut one tooth.

This old man that cut em would setup the machine, start cutting....and go to sleep for the whole shift. Then wake up stop the machine clock out and start his day of freedom....

Lemme know when you get tired of cutting teeth. I can prolly get you on at McKissick for over $15/hour starting. It is a union shop, and top out for CNC operators is over $20/hour. And all they want are button pushers, no knowledge of programming is neccessary .

LOL that's me exactly. The small gears take about an hour to finish but the largest ones (I can lay down within their diameter) take about 1 and a half shifts. Since the plant is running 24/7 during the week I seldom get to see a finished gear. I'll keep your offer in mind Matt. You've got the hookups on everything LOL. Hurry and get those Z brakes on!

Funny, right before I read that last night I had my pointer hovering over the buy button for some ichiba 5 lug hubs f&r...

Hey everyone, I am probably gonna need some help getting my sr running. Anyone around okc willing to lend a hand?

Sorry guy, I'll be working on mine before long(hopefully).

Right now I seem to have blown a coolant hose under the IM. Can't even really see it...took off the ps pump and intake tube(ka24e). Still couldn't see the leak. But the two hoses behind the ps pump were SUPER soft, so I guess it's one of those.

I'll be lucky to make it to my new house without having to stop to add water. Who knows, maybe I'll make it..after all it's only 2 miles. I'll put it on jackstand and start tearin into it.

I'm hopin to get it done before the weekend, as I have a frame shop appointment on Sunday to check if the frame is straight.

Why Matt, would you check if your frame is straight? Well, because I'm going to strip the car down and prepare to weld a roll cage. Hopefully I'll come across someone who knows much better than I...

Well good luck hope your car is straight.

gravetolife91 wrote:Hey everyone, I am probably gonna need some help getting my sr running. Anyone around okc willing to lend a hand?

I'd help you out but I'm leaving for California for a few weeks, and OKC is hella far.

Very true, yah maybe i will get this POS goin soon. when is the last time y'all had a meet? Its pretty boring around Tinker, I would like to find some events and stuff too.

Visiting the fam? Or just a vacation?

If any of you find a decent S13 rolling chassis for sale in Oklahoma please let me know. I've found some bad rust problems with my current car and need something I can swap everything over to.

Thanks,Dave

datsun2401972 wrote:Visiting the fam? Or just a vacation?

Vacation. 2 weeks.

Tulsa_S-13 wrote:If any of you find a decent S13 rolling chassis for sale in Oklahoma please let me know. I've found some bad rust problems with my current car and need something I can swap everything over to.

Thanks,Dave

Awww man that sucks Dave. I got your message. I'm going to hold onto my chassis. It's straight and rustless so yeah. I'll keep my eyes open though.

Email me your phone number and we'll talk.

I have a 91 hatch back with no front fenders, nose cone, or hood(hoods damaged anyways). I had minor front end damage when I bought it. The radiator support was damaged at the connecting points to the fenders. $300 and a frame shop later, and you can't tell anything happened. I normally run from cars that have had any damage to the frame at all, but this one is worth looking at.

It is an SE, so it has hicas and abs...and lsd. You'll want to redo some interior pieces if you want a clean daily driver. Can't remember if there are any cracks in the dash...

The only stipulation I have is that I get the sr20 out of it before it rolls off . I can tell you the original plans for this car over the phone, but basically the stock ka24de that came out of this car is sitting in my garage. Engine is still good, except for worn clutch. When I bought this car, the fuel hose leading to the fuel filter was not hooked on right, causing a fuel leak(previous dumbass). So I didn't drive this car around at all.

Email me if your interested and we can talk prices after you look at the chassis or whatever...

Oh, and I don't have any pics of it....

Ryon, are your parents home?

There's a good chance I'll need my engine hoist back in the near future.

Ummmmmmmmm they should be? But I don't know if they have any consistent schedule.

When do you plan to get back in BA?

I should be back by next Sunday. If you really need it I can call and ask them to wait one day while you come and get it.

Someone get me a chassis! I'm having boost withdrawal!

So..... cold.....

Damnit man, this guy at this shop is trying to be a real d!ck. Even though he told me twice when I asked "how much is storage" he said "I'm not worried about it". Now that I'm trying to sell you the car he's like. "I'm gonna need the storage money and the tow money before I can let you have your car...

Oh, and what a coincidence it is that he blew his s14 ka over the weekend, and doesn't have the money to buy his ls1 swap he wanted. But he'll take my sr20det in that car in exchange for waiving the storage fee, tow fee, and labor on my talon awd...

Wow, what labor fee could be possibly waive considering he hasn't done anything to the talon.

And even if I did say yes, whos to say he wont just put the sr in his 240 and then not do anything with the talon? I've learned more lessons today than I bargained for that's for sure.

Sounds like a pretty ****ty situation man.

I might have found myself a coupe chassis if the guy ever contacts me saying he has the title in hand for it.

Matt, if this coupe doesn't work out, I'd love to check out that hatchback if it's at all possible.
Modified by Tulsa_S-13 at 3:37 PM 7/15/2008

I know of a 240sx for sell $300 in pretty damn good condition. Paints not even faded and dash isnt cracked.

The only thing is, I have no AC in my car and it gets so hot it effects my memory.......

otterman wrote:I know of a 240sx for sell $300 in pretty damn good condition. Paints not even faded and dash isnt cracked.

The only thing is, I have no AC in my car and it gets so hot it effects my memory.......

God damn it Jason! Haha, if you're not lying to me then hit me up on AIM. I'm sure I could give you a deal for helping me find a chassis

It's all good man...I'll let you know what happens in the end anyways..