Any one use Portable Air Conditioner?

[TheRogue]

Has anyone used one of those all-in-one Portable Air Conditioners inside your Rogue? Or any car for that matter?

The AC has gone on our car. One garage, that we trust, said it was the compressor.

Our Rogue is a 2011. So 14/15 years old. We don't want to sink too much into the AC system. We'll do the regular maintenance. Just had the transmission / transfer case / differential fluids changed. And I am consistent with oil changes as well.

Our daughter is using the car to go to work. And it's been really hot lately.

I've seen these all-in-one air conditioners that are meant for tents / RVs. They can run on AC. It says 110 volt / 250 watt. It also lists DC, but it is 24 volt.

One of the postings in the comments suggested that if you are going to use it in a car, to not go the DC route, and just run it through a store bought inverter.

I was wondering if I could just get a car inverter that goes from the cigarette lighter to wall plug output, but one rated at either 300 watt or 400 watt, plug this thing in and it could cool down the car a bit.

My questions are . . .

1) Has anyone done this?

2) Does it seem at all possible that it would work? Or would I just damage our Rogue?

3) If going with an inverter, would it be better to get the 300 watt inverter or the 400 watt inverter?

4) Is there anything else to consider with running this set-up? 'like . . . will hooking all this up prevent the alternator from being able to charger the battery?

Any help greatly appreciated!

Thank you,

Take care,
The Rogue

[Sigster]

If your garage is reliable we can assume it's not just the compressor clutch that often goes out on that generation of Rogues...


Rockauto lists new compressors for under $200

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nis ... nditioning

Not sure if it's worth the hassle and money to figure out a working portable AC solution

[VStar650CL]

Well, there's labor plus evac/recharge if the OP can't DIY it. But the inverter needs to be much bigger than 250W to handle the startup load from the portable, because the surge current from the motor will be 2~3.5 times the run current. When you exceed surge rating, most inverters just shut down. So it probably needs a 1kW unit to guarantee starting safely, and that won't run off a lighter plug.

[AZhitman]

^ This. If a cheap non-automotive application was feasible, everyone in AZ would own one.

[AZhitman]

Whenever I've needed this type of work, I've found a local tech who doesn't mind doing a Sunday side job for cash.

Replacing the compressor, flushing/vacuuming the system, and replacing the freon shouldn't be more than $1k.

[TheRogue]

@Sigster @VStar650CL
RE: Labour vs DIY . . . Yeah. I am not a DIY'er. And I was thinking . . . the cost of the compressor + the clutch (or buy combined?) + refill + labour. And that is if everything else in the system works. It's more than we want to sink into our Rogue. Granted . . . when I need a new battery (which I think I might get for this winter), or we need new brakes . . . if the Rogue is still driving well, we will go through with those costs. But I consider AC a kinda luxury. At least for me (having grown up with no AC in my parents' cars.)

NOTE: The AC stopped working 4 years ago. So everything has just been sitting there unused for 4 years. Our thinking at the time was that this was our older car (2011). It would stop working before our newer car (2016 Dodge Grand Caravan.) So we didn't get it fixed back then. But recently . . . our van needed a new engine, and we didn't want to go through that, so we replaced it with a lease on a Mazda CX-5. So now we got even less money. LOL. To be honest, we thought the Rogue would be gone before the van. But the Rogue is still running well (knock on wood). All except the AC. But it is a 14/15 year old car and we are thinking of trying to save the AC cost to put towards a newer vehicle down the road. In other words, don't sink the money into our older car.

So I was thinking a Tent Air Conditioner wouldn't be permanently fixed into the Rogue. When it came time to move on, I'd just grab the Tent Air Conditioner and pull it out. 'heck . . . when I go camping at an electrical site, maybe actually use it for the tent. LOL. Or . . . if I ever get to do a DIY camper van, use it in that. LOL.

RE: Exceed surge rating . . . that is something that I was kinda aware of. But had forgotten. I'm thinking this is a consideration on AC units for RV trailers, etc.

@AZhitman

RE: Cheap non-automotive application -- Yes. I didn't know if this was a thing. That's why I was asking. LOL. But . . . I knew of these Portable Tent AC units. (From looking at them for camping.) And . . . after the OP, I have found some AC units to add to retro cars. They are meant to work by hooking them up to the battery. The newer AC systems for retro cars don't require you to attach it so that it can be driven from the fan / accessory belt. They have an electric motor built in the same housing as the compressor. So a battery hook-up to power the compressor. And then run coolant tubes through the firewall to a unit on the inside the cabin to cool.

Cost for this is about $700. But looking at the engine bay, I don't see any space inside the engine bay to stash the compressor + fan. (Retro cars would have more room in the engine bay for this.)

And this is a lot more work than I am capable of.

RE: Sunday Side Job -- I used to know a mechanic that would do things cheaply. But he retired. He really helped us out with our 2000 Nissan Altima.

[AZhitman]

I think you're making this more difficult than it needs to be.

Yes, several companies make aftermarket AC units for vintage cars (I've installed a few). But why buy all that stuff when you already have it all?

Electric AC unit is going to draw a ton of amps from your alternator, which it wasn't designed for.

This'll probably sound rude, and it's certainly not my intention, but just fix the AC properly or replace the car.

[TheRogue]

@AZhitman

Don't worry about the rude part. LOL.

Your thoughts is what is going through my head.

But I got no money right now to trade it in for another car.

I was just wondering if anyone had a cost effective way to get something working.

And its for my daughter. Personally I don't mind a car without AC. But my daughter is using the car to get to work. She is paying off her student loans right now. Once she's done that, then she can get into car payments and get a newer car with AC. At that point in time, if the Rogue is still working, I'd grab it back. Maybe my younger daughter will drive it around.

So getting another vehicle is ultimately the plan. It's just not in the cards right now.

But . . . since I probably won't get much for this old Rogue . . . as long as it moves, it is worth more to me personally as a hack-about vehicle than to sell it.

Besides, I like the Rogue.

[AZhitman]

Yep. In that case, let her drive your car, you drive the Rogue, and save for the repair.

Don't let her get into payments (or worse, a lease). That's partially what put you in this position.

[TheRogue]

@AZhitman

Yup. Going with the lease absolutely put us into this position.

It made trying to keep the Rogue on the road as long as possible even more important to us.

I'm usually against leases. But when our van died, it ended up being the most workable solution for us short term. Ultimately I want to buy out the Mazda and run it as long as possible. Then I'm getting a used car I know the history of.

Take care, TheRogue

[AZhitman]

Good luck man! Just went through that with my daughter - her classic Z stranded her one too many times, so she's in a newer (but affordable) more reliable car now.

Hope it works out well.

[TheRogue]

@AZhitman

I appreciate it.

Sorry to hear about the Z. Glad to hear things are worked out for your daughter.

Take care, TheRogue

[macgiver]

Tip , IF your compressor leaked out the shaft seal ,at front behind the clutch , seal is cheap like $6-$15 . AND some mounting positions of compressor MAY allow to install this front seal by way of clutch removal (NOT needing to R&R compressor) , and maybe install a new clutch too (also relatively cheap money !) .
Could be easier / waaay less expensive than your initial findings......dig deeper here ....your aftermarket plan would be a nightmare compared to IF it's as simple as in my scenario !

p.s. you generally WILL see the residual oil stain from the escaping freon/oil combo on nearest frame surface to greenlight a seal replacement attempt in this manner. needless to say , recharging is the bigger $$ , is where you look for a deal.