Any difference between Ebay timing chain/gear kits?

[Vettedrmr]

Need to replace the front main seal on my son's KA24DE, and with the engine having almost 200K miles on it, plus the autocross that we do, thought it would be a good time to go ahead and replace the timing chain, gears, etc.

I went on Ebay and found several kits available with all the gears, sprockets, etc., ranging in Buy It Now prices from $70s-150s.

Is there any difference in these kits? All are advertised as new.

Also, I found the sticky at the top for the rebuild procedure, I'm sure it'll come in handy.

Finally, is this a one-day job?

TIA, and have a good one,Mike

[Brandon93240]

It depends on ur ability, I can usually do one in about 2-3 hrs, but I've done alot of them, plus I worked at a Nissan dealer for about 5 years. If the chains don't have excessive wear and the teeth on the gears are still smooth I'd just replace the guides and the tensioners. U can ask an older parts guy at any nissan dealer and sometimes they'll truthfully admit thats all u really need to replace. Also I wouldn't trust some of the crap on ebay, they may look like the real deal but considering what will happen if something fails is it really worth saving $150. U can get a real deal kit from AMS, or a few other places for around 300. Or u can go to a dealership and see what kind of deal they'll make u.

[93HATCH240]

Or u can go to a dealership and see what kind of deal they'll make u.

The word deal shouldnt be in dealership cuz they are always overpriced and want to bend you over. But thats just my opinion.To the OP I'd just shell out the extra money and deal with a reputable comany like ams. Is saving a few bucks worth the motor if something breaks

[amolao]

I would buy original Nissan parts from our sponsors. Stay away from the dealer, they are always overpriced. If is your first time, is going to take you at the most a full day. Trust me. And that's if you don't run into any problems. Like damaging the HG, stripping bolts,etc.....

[Brandon93240]

Most dealer's will bend u over a stack of tires, but if you haggle with the parts guy he can decide to give u a better deal, they make commision off of markup on parts, so if u let him know u'll be using him exclusively they'll usually hook u up unless they're money hungry.

[Vettedrmr]

If the chains don't have excessive wear and the teeth on the gears are still smooth I'd just replace the guides and the tensioners. U can ask an older parts guy at any nissan dealer and sometimes they'll truthfully admit thats all u really need to replace.

Thanks, that's great info. The only reason I was considering replacing the chain and gears is because we'll be right there doing the other work. OTOH, I don't have to worry about messing up the timing.

So, the next question is: how would you judge the wear on the chains? Clean teeth on the gears I can handle, but chain wear is tougher.

Quote » Also I wouldn't trust some of the crap on ebay, they may look like the real deal but considering what will happen if something fails is it really worth saving $150. [/quote]That's why I posted. I've found a lot of stuff on Ebay to come from the same manufacturers as OE stuff, down to the part numbers. I've also heard of horror stories, and I thought y'all might be able to help me out (which you have).

Thanks again, and have a good one,Mike

[Brandon93240]

No problem, look at the rollers, if they have gouges u can feel with ur finger nail I'd consider replacing them. If they have light wear marks(like all the timing chain jobs I've ever done on a Nissan while at Tom Peacock)they are ok. I had a customer who had 3 timing jobs done on a 93 hatch while I was there, each time they looked ok, she was a hotshot delivery person who had her car serviced at our dealership regularly. Alot of parts are oe crossover, if thats the case then they are ok to purchase.

[Vettedrmr]

Brandon,

Thanks a ton for the advice; that's some good criteria to make a go/no-go decision on.

BTW, I've not had any success finding a decent hardcopy shop manual for my son's 240SX; the only thing I've got is a CD with some scanned pages. OK for torque specs, etc., but not much else.

Have a good one,Mike

[Brandon93240]

what year is it? I think I may have an extra one, I was at nissan when we went from fsm's to michell so at one time I must have had 100 fsm's.

[Brandon93240]

o its a 92, I'll see if I have one still, I'm pretty sure I have a few 91's left. I just moved into a new house about 2 months ago so it may take me a week or so to find them.

[Vettedrmr]

Brandon,

That would be awesome. Even a '91 manual would be of great help; I think the only possible difference would be if the DOHC wasn't available in '91 (I think it was).

Send me an email and I'll send you my address and I'll get back with you.

Have a good one,Mike

[daconkiftador]

um and yeah I saw those "kits" on ebay listed for the fwd KA aswell, but I decided to cough up the extra money for true oem parts.

[Brandon93240]

I'm still hunting for them ,lol when I find them I'll let you know which ones I have.

[Florida240sx]

I'll take any 240sx FSM's that you got. I have 4 240's and not a single fsm... Would like to have an 89-90 91-93 94,95,96 97-98

[Vettedrmr]

No problem, look at the rollers, if they have gouges u can feel with ur finger nail I'd consider replacing them. If they have light wear marks(like all the timing chain jobs I've ever done on a Nissan while at Tom Peacock)they are ok.

Brandon,

Thanks so much for the guidance; we checked the rollers today and they're clean; much cleaner than I thought they'd be at 200K miles. No sludge under the valve cover or on the top of the heads, so I don't think she's ever been cooked too hot in the past.

So, now I think I need the following:

front main sealtensionerschain guides

What else do I need? And, as I don't have any Nissan dealer within an hour drive, who should I go to that would be a forum supporter?

Thanks again for all your help, and have a good one,Mike

[Brandon93240]

Hey no problem. I'm still trying to hunt the manuels down, I've looked into a few boxes but I have some that are a pita to get to. I would use Courtesy Nissan, I think they're a sponsor on nico, I know they were on 240sx.org. If your not having any cooling problems I would leave the thermostat neck and pump on the cover when you remove it, just check the weep hole for any leaking past the seal. Other than that you have everything you need, I'd also get a tube of Nissan black sealant, its good stuff, and a few cans of nonchloronated brake clean to clean with. I'd check the condition of the belts also, you have to have them off so if they look bad I'd go ahead and replace them, I only use Nissan belts on Nissan, they're almost as cheap as house brand belts but won't squeek.

[Vettedrmr]

Brandon,

Thanks for the advice. We've got new belts on, I've got a few cans of brake cleaner sitting around, and that's a great piece of advice about the t'stat. It's working fine, so we'll just leave that seal alone!

I'll give Courtesy a call this week.

Thanks again, and have a good one,Mike

[Vettedrmr]

BTW, one more question (until the next one ):

Is there any kind of special puller that I need to pull the crank pulley/damper assembly? And, do I need new hardware to put it back on? (torque to yield bolts come to mind).

Thanks again, and have a good one,Mike

[Brandon93240]

Usually they slide right off, you just need to get the main bolt off, the 6 smaller bolts can stay. Sometimes you have to use two screw drivers to walk it off, but they usually come off without a hassle. The bolt is reusable. I can't find the damn manuels, I think they maybe in my buddies garage. If you'd like I can email you the procedure from alldata, it show pretty decent pictures and step by step directions.

[Shift_Kouki]

Been following this thread for a while now... Hopefully I will be doing my own timing chain at some point this summer (considering i have at least 166k on the motor). No doubt this thread will come in handy then.

[Vettedrmr]

If you'd like I can email you the procedure from alldata, it show pretty decent pictures and step by step directions.

Brandon,

That would be great. I'll fire off an email to you tonight when I get home from work.

Have a good one,Mike

[Vettedrmr]

Brandon,

I tried to send you an email via the address in your profile, but it bounced back to me.

You can send me an email to [email protected].

Thanks again for the help, and have a good one,Mike

[Brandon93240]

No problem, I have to go get on alldata anyways, this x5 I'm working on got the **** smashed out of it.

[Vettedrmr]

Got it!

I'm aiming at doing this over the Memorial weekend. I'll try to put together a writeup on how it goes.

Thanks, and have a good one,Mike

[Vettedrmr]

Brandon,

I've sent you an email with some specific questions. Turns out my CD manual is worth less than I thought it was.

Thanks for your help, and have a good one,Mike

[Kaze]

Hey im also trying to change my tensionars on a 93, im eliminating the chain guides the upper and lower right one (if your standing infront of the engine) i heard they are no good. BTW in order to change the all this.....you have to have it at TDC right? etc....i cant get the main pulley off!! its very tight!

[Vettedrmr]

Usually they slide right off, you just need to get the main bolt off, the 6 smaller bolts can stay. Sometimes you have to use two screw drivers to walk it off, but they usually come off without a hassle..

Brandon, you are a GENIUS!!!!! Used 2 big screwdrivers, and walked it off, taking a couple of minutes for the whole job.

Thanks a TON!! My son has gone off for the evening; we're getting started again tomorrow morning. I'll let y'all know the final outcome.

Have a good one,Mike

[sycle]

Brandon - I have a question for you about the timing chain. When i start the car up i have a slight clicking for a while, then it goes away after a little bit. Which sounds like what some people have said might be caused by low oil pressure. So possible using thicker oil. Today i was out auto-crossing and after the second run, a clicking started. So I stopped and pulled my valve cover to check it out. Later i drove home and no more clicking. Would the turns in an auto-x course cause that? Any suggestions are welcome.

[Brandon93240]

Yes autocrossing can cause a slight interuption of oil to the tensioners giving them the opportunity to slack enough to slap against the gaurds. Is it a soft met. sound? Also how many miles are on your enigne? Maybe time for a rebuild.

[sycle]

What do you mean by a soft met. sound? It was a pretty loud clicking, could hear it quite good inside the car. Was basically a loud clicking sound, similar to the valves, but louder from the front of the block. Engine has 145k on it. Yea, i am thinking about maybe doing the timing chain kit plus + some other things while i am in there. But it probably won't be till the end of the summer.