Sorry that I'm missing something here, but for my knowledge, if a number is uploaded how can it be verified that it is a correct number for my vehicle? I don't see anything in the SM listing numbers.

F608 w/o side airbags, F609 with. It's on page SRS-18.

So I still don't have the discriminated number but I did do a scan and got these codes:
B1049 and B1054 Driver airbag module
B1193 and B1198 Front RS and LS curtain airbag modules
U1000 still on
I ordered a clock spring on ebay for $28. I would like to know that I have the correct discriminated number but haven't gotten that yet.
It seems odd that both front side curtain airbags are causing a problem. For now I'm waiting on the clock spring.
Merry Christmas!

Does it even have curtain airbags? I think the difference between the two discriminated programs was whether the curtains were there or not. If your ride doesn't have them, then you most likely have the wrong firmware ver. If that's the case, I'd imagine you could kluje it by jumping the curtain airbag pins on the brain with 2.2 ohm resistors to make it think the bags are there.

Merry Christmas and a great New Year!

PS - I know the SM says "with side airbags" about that, but it would be very unusual for a vehicle to have curtains but no sides, but pretty normal for one to have sides but no curtains. So I think that may be a typo and they really mean curtains.

What you say makes sense to me. Next time I'm at the boneyard I'm going to see if I can get a definitive answer on the side in the seat vs the side curtain. I am also going to call the yard I bought the controller from and get their input. My ride has both so I wonder if the codes are accurate. It seems so since both blink codes of 7 and 8 would be the curtains and the B1193 and B1198 are referencing the curtains.

Could be you're missing some parts, then. Since we know the previous owner was driving around with a dead bag brain, who knows what else may have been done trying to disable the system and/or extinguish the light?

There is about a 2" slice in the head liner where maybe curtain bag plug access was made. I have to check it out, but it's not on the passenger side like that.
I was just on IIHS site and they crash tested a 2004S which had side curtain airbags. The next test was a 2006SL with optional side seat torso bags, the side airbags.

I received the new ebay purchased clock spring and when removing the airbag found that the previous owner had unplugged the yellow and orange connectors. I plugged them in to see if that might fix the problem but it didn't. So I removed the clockstring and compared it to the new one and the new one doesn't match so I am returning it. The position of the wires for the connectors are swapped on the new one and the number of pins on the main plug are different. Having the original clockspring in hand I was able to find another on ebay that matches in appearance. I don't know why or if this would have been a problem but it didn't seem like the correct part. The latest one I ordered is only for 2004-2005 vehicles which wasn't the case with the original. How do you pull the OE number from the original part? It is stamped Nissan so I assume it is original.

I've never complained to a seller about a used vehicle I've purchased. If this guy wasn't in Siberia and I could contact him he would hear from me about not disclosing that the airbag was unplugged and not functioning. Of course he wouldn't care, he got past that.

Hmm, I wonder if the airbags weren't unplugged because Harry Backyard already installed a mismatched spiral and couldn't figure out what he did wrong. I certainly wouldn't assume the spiral that's in the vehicle is the right one. To make sure you get the right one, I'd visit NissanPartsDeal and plug in your VIN to identify the factory p/n, then use the factory p/n in the RockAuto Part Number Search tab to identify aftermarket alternates. I think at this point you need to assume everything this guy did is untrustworthy.

Just checked and the part number I ordered is correct, but both items have the correct number listed on ebay and they definitely have differences. I'd just hate to spend $100 more for a part from RA not knowing if it is going to fix the problem. See how it goes.

So I am working on getting the driver airbag to check out as functioning. Good thing to have. But I don't want the side curtains to be working. Now the code says front 2 are out. I want to use van as a camping vehicle, no seats in the rear for passengers. I'd like to put in shelving units and a bed/couch setup. If I disable all four is there a way to keep the warning light out? I can get thru inspection with it on but would rather not be looking at it and would like to know if a problem pops up with the front ones. Is this a bad idea?

No, not a bad idea, and it's easy to dummy-out Nissan bags. Just bridge each set of curtain bag contacts with a 2.2 ohm 1/4 watt resistor and it will fool the bag brain into thinking the bags are there and healthy. Use 1% resistors, using 5% or 10% could induce enough error to cause a code.

EDIT: These will do, or anything like them:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/234358547753

Installed new spiral and still have codes B1049 and B1054. The orange and yellow connectors to the airbag weren't as good a fit as the original but went together fine. Still didn't get the brain scanned but since the side airbags aren't throwing a code I assume it's correct. The guy that sold me the van did have a small accident with it on the right front, he had to replace the headlight assembly and there are a few scrapes on the fender. That shouldn't be a factor here should it? Any suggestions for what to do next?

Well, both of those codes are "open circuit", so there has to be a disconnect somewhere between the bags and the brain. The accident shouldn't have affected it unless it blew off the driver bags, then you might have melted wires somewhere in the system. Checking the bags is simple, put a 2.2 ohm resistor in place of the bag and see if the code goes "past". If it does, then the bag is bad. The only good way to isolate a problem in the wiring is to isolate the wiring. Unplug the brain and bags and trace back with an ohmmeter to see where continuity is being lost. Break out the wiring diagram and check pin-for-pin back from the bag connectors through the spiral to the brain connectors. It's always possible with an aftermarket spiral that it's a "sort of wrong" part and the signals are scrambled or incomplete, so I'd check that first.

I received the Foxwell NT 630 Plus today. It pulled the Discriminated # of the brain which was a surprise and it is the correct firmware F609. I ordered the resistors you suggested and will attempt to do as instructed. Since it is highly unlikely that the airbag is the problem I'm hoping I can discern the wiring diagram and trace the wires. Not my cup of coffee. I also reset the angle sensor.

The most likely issue in the wiring is at the connectors or a wrong spiral, so check that first. You'll want some small safety pins for back-probing connectors and for simulating male pins. Your aftermarket spiral may not have the same wire colors as the original, if it doesn't then you'll need to look for the proper pattern instead of going by the wire colors. Slight PITA, but that's always an issue with aftermarket electrical parts. Assuming the colors match, with the airbag and brain loose but the spiral connector M29 still in place, poke one safety pin into the airbag connection White wire and another into the back of M29 at Yellow/Blue. You should have continuity. Then do the same for Green to Yellow/Black, Red to Yellow, and Brown to Yellow/Black (notice the two Yellow/Black wires should be common, they join inside the harness). If you find anything that's open-circuit then your spiral is scrambled and isn't the correct part. If you don't find any opens, then take M29 loose from the spiral and ohm the wires between M29 and the bag brain M35. Same deal, all should have continuity. If any are open, then the problem is in your Main Harness and you'll probably be best off cutting the open conductor at both ends and splicing in a parallel wire. If you don't find anything open, then you have a pin-fit or corrosion problem in M35 or one or both bag connectors.

One word of caution, get a safety pin assortment and never force an oversized pin into a receptacle, you can permanently damage the receptacle spring. At least three quarters of the pins on any Nissan are 0.025" nominal diameter, so you can use a calipers to find one made with 0.024~0.026" wire and use it as a spread terminal pin-fit checker. If it drags in the cavity, then the receptacle spring is good. No drag, it's a loose pin-fit.

Thank you so much that is an awesome set of instructions, I have a shot now. I'm hoping it's the airbag though! Or corrosion maybe on the bag receptacles, I didn't treat them and they were unplugged. You seem to be skeptical of the cheap ebay spiral cable, eh?

schuylkill wrote: ↑

Thu Jan 06, 2022 7:16 pm

You seem to be skeptical of the cheap ebay spiral cable, eh?

I know the OE part is overpriced, but the aftermarket version is only a bargain if it fits right and works right. I've seen way too many of them that were buggered-up. Horns talking to cruise switches and worse. I've never unscrewed one that popped an airbag, but I'm pretty sure I'll see it if I live long enough.

I have the airbag removed. I plan to have the battery disconnected when unplugging harness from brain. Should power remain off for ohm testing connectors and wires? I tested the old spiral cable and found the ends of 7 wires thru the cable at pins on two connectors and on 4 wires thru bag connectors and M29 connector. I haven't had time and weather for testing at the wheel. For back probing M29 should I use the thinnest gauge pin I got in the assortment pack? I've never done it.

So I checked receptacle on spiral where M29 plugs in, not M29 on the old spiral I pulled.

I was afraid you might have a wrong part. Vis checking the wires, you just don't want to expose the brain or the airbag to current from the ohmmeter. If the brain and bag connectors are pulled then there's nothing wrong with powering the car back up if necessary. You can use whatever size pin fits in the cavity for back-probing (usually very small on connectors like the spiral). It's only front-probing where you don't want to use an oversize diameter because it might spread the terminal springs.

I'm suspecting that the bag connections are the problem but don't have data to confirm. I watched an interesting YouTube video of a guy working on a Mazda which had what appeared identical bag connectors. He made a tool which allowed variable ohm settings. When he dialed up to 3 the light would go out. His point was how critical and sensitive the resistance. The car also had both B1049 and B1054 codes which he could turn off and on at each connector. I noticed that the pins on the bag appear to be rectangular shaped and not round. I popped open a connector and don't know if it's a good idea to try and tighten them up. There is a slight difference in resistance when sliding in pins between the original and new spiral also. Anyway I'm going to better treat all connectors. I want to get a spray, I'm using a small brush now.

Those connectors are pretty easy to disassemble and there's no harm in doing it, and if the pin-fits are bad there's no harm in increasing the tension by pushing the tip of a pin in behind the spring. Just don't try to tighten them by squeezing the whole barrel, that never works. The demo you saw is very representative. With a mere 2.2 ohms resistance in a healthy squib, it only takes a tiny amount of extra resistance to trip an open-circuit code. That means good contact on the pins at both ends is essential.

Hey just checking in for no reason. My family went through sharing Covid infections, I tested positive a month ago this Wednesday. My wife still has no sense of taste or smell so she is miserable but otherwise we made out ok. Weather here in PA has been very cold so my car work has stopped. The new woodstove I hauled with the Quest is awesome, very glad I grabbed it. It might get into the 40s later in the week so I may poke around in the Quest then. Good health to all.