04pathse wrote:I have been doing 3D printing for a few years now and the adapter printed in nylon is the best choice as it is very high strength, is resistant to heat and chemicals.

If anyone is interested in an adapter printed in nylon send me a private message.

Here is one I just printed, It is made to the specs that was provided in the file that was posted a few months ago.

What is the diameter of the hole? I looked at that file posted before and it looked to only be 7mm. If so, is that large enough to get enough air?

Yes the diameter of the hole is 7mm, according to "meynardo" it works fine at that size, however they can be made with larger holes...

Yes 7mm is the size of the original hole. When you look at the original big airbox, it is bigger outside where you connect the hose, but inside the box itself, the hole reduces drastically to even less than 7mm. I know for a fact as I pried open that box to see what was inside and re-welded it.
As 04pathse says, you can definitely make it bigger.
I may be wrong but I think this connection is only to allow some fumes to go back to the intake so there should not be any pressure or high speed gases. Someone can correct me if this is not the case. I will learn something.

Meynardo wrote:Yes 7mm is the size of the original hole. When you look at the original big airbox, it is bigger outside where you connect the hose, but inside the box itself, the hole reduces drastically to even less than 7mm. I know for a fact as I pried open that box to see what was inside and re-welded it.
As 04pathse says, you can definitely make it bigger.
I may be wrong but I think this connection is only to allow some fumes to go back to the intake so there should not be any pressure or high speed gases. Someone can correct me if this is not the case. I will learn something.

cool thanks for the info

I know this an old thread, but is there any downside to increasing airflow? Is the car designed to allow for more airflow or will it mess up the air/fuel mapping and cause other issues?

Landsharkk wrote:I know this an old thread, but is there any downside to increasing airflow? Is the car designed to allow for more airflow or will it mess up the air/fuel mapping and cause other issues?

I believe what you are doing with this sort of mod is decreasing the turbulence within the ducting system and allowing for a straight path to the throttle body. It's the same reason you do not use flexible ducting for heating/exhaust in your home - you use rigid ducting because it flows significantly better. Your limitation is the throttle body (it has a fixed size opening), and the common problem is people think they need this massive ducting that, if air was flowing, would out-flow what the throttle body could handle.

Hi there! I'm new to the forum and took an interest to this thread! I do a lot of Kildare and was wondering if anyone else had tried this mod? Also, does anyone produce the necessary adapter as depicted? Very neat little trick!

Thanks
Andrew

Bass4ever wrote:Hi there! I'm new to the forum and took an interest to this thread! I do a lot of Kildare and was wondering if anyone else had tried this mod? Also, does anyone produce the necessary adapter as depicted? Very neat little trick!

Thanks
Andrew

Greetings Andrew - and welcome to the forum.

You can see my contribution earlier in this thread. I did the both the upper and lower mod, but restored the upper resonator to stock. As I said there, the upper resonator does not create a vacuum, plus it looks like it's intended to act as a reservoir to catch oil from the PCV. If you want to do the upper mod here are a couple of links to get the parts from Amazon:


http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B006PKLL0M/r ... E4Y7&psc=1


http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B008FM9ZEW/r ... DCY6&psc=1

The bushing is made from CPVC and can handle the oil and heat at that location. It fit my 2013 Rogue just right and I assume all 1st gen Rogues have the same intake setup (but I don't know).

I would be careful using anything that could soften or deteriorate at the upper location. Anything that enters the intake at that point goes right through the TB and into the engine.

The lower mod is simply removing the duct that goes from the intake to the lower resonator (which IS a vacuum), so the cost for that is a big, fat zero.

I gained about a 1.3 MPG improvement overall by pulling that duct, so I can't complain.

Hope this helps,
Paul

Hi Paul! Thank you for the quick reply & also the greetings!

Could you elaborate on the lower mod? Where would the lower resonator be located in relation to the throttle body/air box?

Thank you!

Andrew

Bass4ever wrote:Hi Paul! Thank you for the quick reply & also the greetings!

Could you elaborate on the lower mod? Where would the lower resonator be located in relation to the throttle body/air box?

Thank you!

Andrew

Read my previous contributions in this thread. I see you have a 2014 so if it's a 2nd generation Rogue the layout will be different than the 2013 and previous.

What about taping off the 2 holes in #7 of the diagram? I just removed it and would like advice prior to closing the holes.

Thanks

Ok so I decided to plug the holes of #7 too.

Here is what I ended up with.

I used gorilla tape and 5 minute epoxy over the edges of the tape....

I have done what is pictured above ^, and removed the lower intake resonator so far... I haven't touched the above-engine resonator yet, due to not having the proper parts to fit in its place.

I did both the mods in this thread. I took out the upper resonator mod shortly after I did it because I think that the upper resonator is designed to act as a crankcase oil catch reservoir. Without it, bypass fumes and oil are channeled directly into the throttle body, plus the upper resonator does not create a vacuum in the intake air flow.

I ran without the lower resonator tube for many months - until summer came and through the Torque app I saw that my intake air temp in summer traffic could hit 40-50 degrees above ambient (meaning a 90 degree ambient could cause a 140 degree intake air temp). This is because it's pulling at least half the intake air directly from the engine bay. I replaced the tube to the stock configuration and the intake temp lowered to 10-30 degrees above ambient. I think this mod makes sense only in winter, plus it can be done in 5 minutes.

I thought you said the 2nd gen's was different?

followingnfront wrote:I thought you said the 2nd gen's was different?

They are. Sorry, I was referring only to the 1st gen vehicles in my recent comment. The principles are the same though:
- If the upper resonator acts as any kind of filter to reduce the amount of crankcase oils and gases entering the intake, you might not want to remove that.
- In summer, anything you can do to keep air intake temps as low as possible is good, so pulling intake air from outside is best. For some reason Nissan routes intake air to the filter past resonators or other small vacuum chambers. I guess primarily to reduce intake air noise in the cabin. My thinking is that this may slow the flow of air to the engine.

Please let us know if you gain anything in HP or MPG after you run you mods for a while.

Thanks for the response!

2 questions... Because I'm not very informed on this particular subject regarding engines...

#1) wouldn't a cold air intake (if one was made for this vehicle) eliminate that upper resonator and connect the crankcase hose to the CAI anyway?

#2) let's say that upper resonator does act like a filter of sorts, what would be the outcome of the oils and gases entering the throttle body? What is the danger there?

Thanks

followingnfront wrote:Thanks for the response!
2 questions... Because I'm not very informed on this particular subject regarding engines...
#1) wouldn't a cold air intake (if one was made for this vehicle) eliminate that upper resonator and connect the crankcase hose to the CAI anyway?
#2) let's say that upper resonator does act like a filter of sorts, what would be the outcome of the oils and gases entering the throttle body? What is the danger there?
Thanks

#1 - Depending on the specific design and configuration (the ones I've seen anyway), a CAI would bypass the LOWER resonator only. IMO a CAI is a marketing gimmick anyway. If you truly want a real CAI then install a snorkel.
#2 - Eliminating the upper resonator and passing all crankcase oils and gases directly into the intake poses no "danger", it just means your throttle body will get dirty quicker and require cleaning more often. This will increase as the engine wears too.

My .02

Thanks for the response...

What do you think about wrapping the OEM plastic intake tubing with heat shield type wrapping to keep some of the engines heat out of the intake air?

Also, for removing the upper intake resonator, is this a good piece to use for the crankcase hose to connect to (measurement/fit-wise)? This way it would be one piece instead of two http://m.homedepot.com/p/3-4-in-Brass-P ... /202270603

Thanks

followingnfront wrote:Thanks for the response...

What do you think about wrapping the OEM plastic intake tubing with heat shield type wrapping to keep some of the engines heat out of the intake air?
Also, for removing the upper intake resonator, is this a good piece to use for the crankcase hose to connect to (measurement/fit-wise)? This way it would be one piece instead of two http://m.homedepot.com/p/3-4-in-Brass-P ... /202270603
Thanks

I don't think wrapping will make any difference, It is the temp of the air drawn into the intake that matters.
If you want "cold" air it should come from outside the engine bay. But like I said earlier, there would be an advantage to pulling air from the engine bay in the winter - especially in colder climates.

If that adapter fits and you do want to eliminate the upper reservoir, that would be a good choice.

Thanks for all your helpful answers! Isn't that piece that I linked identical in dimensions as the 2 pieces you used when put together?

I am going to check out that piece at Home Depot. For about $3 I figure its worth it to see if removing the upper resonator will increase throttle response and/or make the engine sound throatier.

I had an 06 Accord V6 (miss that car very much) that only had a lower resonator, and nothing up top... I removed the resonator, and under hard throttle it sounded very deep, aggressive, and throaty.

Obviously I'm not expecting the Rogue to sound like a powerful V6, but I'm hoping it will sound a little more sporty

Hello guys,

Any updates on the mods you made?
Which one is better so far?

A. Lower resonator removal
B. Upper/ lower resonator removal
C. Anyone tried adding hole on the lower resonator?