The people your are talking to havet built am sr have they? 60+ hp can be had.with the correct choice of cams. The 2871 is a great turbo but imo will leave you wanting. The main question is what are you building the car for? Is a huge turbo necessary for your build? It certainly is fore mine. Lol

The car is a project I started Fter I paralyzed my arm in a bike accident. Now I'm so far in I have to keep going. Will be used as a daily for a bit, prob take it to a few drag sessions and practice some drifting.

The only thing I'm worried about is like you said, ill want more in a year. What was that gtx turbo we were talking about? Was it 2860?

f***, i got s*** luck. looks like I might as well order the turbo parts now, the kouki tail lights I ordered last week just got canceled because of a major back order, and the origin streamline body kit I ordered got f*** up. The money's not going through until the 11th and there's only 1 kit left then its on a 3 month back order ffs.

http://realstreetperformance.com/store/ ... _uploads=0
Check this out. If I were to run the t2 manifold this is the turbo id run with the .86 exhaust housing. Gtx2867

Yea that's the one I'm going with. Suppose to be an awesome turbo from what I read. I never ordered from that site before, usually get everything through enjuku. I think I'll order it tonight tho. I dont really want to Put a hold on the paint and body work but I guess I'll have too.

That's where I got my turbo from and if you e-mail them they usually can get you a discount. enjuku may do the same but when I shopped around Rsp was the cheapest place that actually had it in stock. Also check into the wastegate. I had to make my own bracket and buy an hks actuator. Maybe by now theres an easier route then what I had to do.

i thought it used an internal wastegate and the stock actuator could be used. anything else i need to look at before ordering?

i need my laptop to do some research.


EDIT:

is one of these what you were talking about?





theres a few wastegate actuators on there with all different ratings, ones for 5-7 psi, the other is for 12-14 psi etc

This looks like a good deal too, http://zilvia.net/f/forced-induction/50 ... si-wg.html

Its been a while since I've seen a stock actuator but yeah that's it. also check to see if someone makes an intake for the that turbo, and hot pipe. I had to make my own intake and hotpipe. (you could probly modify your existing hot pipe)

Why does the hot pipe and manifold have to be changed? I thought these bolt right up. i dont want to get into buying all new parts again. i stripped the SR down to the block when i got it and put all brand new parts on it going back together besides the turbo and injectors. And I never even drove the car yet.

I was just after buying a megan intake manifold and greddy hot pipe. Plus I had to get the bov flange welded on by the shop because my welder is DC and can't tig aluminum, he charged me $80 for that. I wasted way too much money on this build already by changing parts and not using this etc. I really want to just have an easy bolt on setup for now. I thought both the gt2871 and gtx2867 were like thst?

No not the intake manifold, intake..... Like cold air intake. The intake for the stock turbo has an elbow bolted on that allows the cai you have. The gt2871, gt3071, gtx28.., all have just the standard turbo inlet where you put a coupler on and run your pipe, so therefore needs a slightely different intake. When I did mine I just ran a piece of pipe from the turbo inlet to the maf and dumped it where my ac pump used to be. I later ran a 3” intake when I found the rights
Bends I needed to run it up by my headlight. (my buddy donated some cai pipe from his ford prope and made it work) the hot pipe on the stock t25 points straight up. The gt and gtx turbos you will have to clock the compressor housing to point toward the strut tower, then you can just get a 90° coupler (90° pipe is better though) and cut the elbow off of the hot pipe and just use the coupler from the pipe to turbo outlet.
The exhaust side is direct bolt on. It bolts straight to the t 2 manifold and the dump pipe directly bolts to the turbo and down pipe. You want easy and direct bolt on? Stick with a stock turbo than.

Yea that's not bad if I can modify the parts I have now, I just don't want to replace everything I just bought with new s***.

Nah its not that bad. Lol, it may take some creativity but you should be able to deal with the intake and outlet pipes relatively easy. Getter done! Lol, yeah id pick some pretty big injectors too, like 740cc or 850cc and z32 maf and you should be able to hit 400 hp no problem.

Oh and cams I vote yes! Stock cams will restrict you to about the 325-350 range.

I was wondering I'd the 750cc injectors would be enough. They have 1000cc injectors for not much more, but would they be too much? I already ordered the z32 maf, electronic boost controller, turbo timer, and a few other small things.

What cams would you recommend? HKS has a set of step 1 and step 2's for $269 on enjuku. http://www.enjukuracing.com/categories/ ... Camshafts/

I don't mind doing the modifications. Sucks thst its all aluminum tho, only thing my welder can't weld.

1000 cc is kind of over kill. I'm on 26-27 lbs with 740cc and am still high 10 afr At rev limit and I run below stock fuel pressure. Imo for a turbo that's rated for 475 hp, the tomei 740 injectors are a perfect match and people have squeezed 500 hp out of them. As far as cams there are many brands that can gain you power but have to be adjusted to gain such benefits. Tomei cams are the only cams id run due to the engineering put into them and how there best setting is oem cam timing. (jwt did an experiment and actually lost power adjusting them away from stock timing) the 256 and 260 pon cams are direct bolt in. I run the 260 pro cams (solid lifter cam with higher lift) and the engine ”kicks in” at about 4k. The 256 are badass cams for an all around power band but looses at tad up top compared to the 260's. (my buddy had those cams and the 2871r and that thing ripped!!)

ok thanks. im flying home tomorrow fora week for days off, I can finally look up some info on my own lol

I think I came to a decision for now, actually that might not work. Do I need a tune with cams indtalled?

I was gonna say, I'll order the injectors and turbo etc now, hold off on the cams. shoot for 350hp for now to see how that goes without grtting to greedy, then id still have room for more if needed. In that case I might be better off with the AEM ECU right? s*** I cant make up my mind, I should just order the parts and worry about how they work later lol

I was told I could get the launch control option added into the rmpathy rom tune, I just seen something about changing the rpm redline to 9k. is that sometging thats normally done on sr motors? and can thst be done through empathy?

Edited title to correct "Enthalpy."

Carry on.

lol Thank You!

I never even noticed that. I always called it Empathy for some reason, never paying attention to the spelling.

KYZAAC wrote:ok thanks. im flying home tomorrow fora week for days off, I can finally look up some info on my own lol

I think I came to a decision for now, actually that might not work. Do I need a tune with cams indtalled?

I was gonna say, I'll order the injectors and turbo etc now, hold off on the cams. shoot for 350hp for now to see how that goes without grtting to greedy, then id still have room for more if needed. In that case I might be better off with the AEM ECU right? s*** I cant make up my mind, I should just order the parts and worry about how they work later lol

I was told I could get the launch control option added into the rmpathy rom tune, I just seen something about changing the rpm redline to 9k. is that sometging thats normally done on sr motors? and can thst be done through empathy?

im not a big fan of enthalpy myself. I've came across quite a few that were tuned pretty lean. Jwt has pretty good tunes and nobody can beat jason with ecutunerguy with price or reliability. He always tunes rich, powerful, and safe. No sr should ever be taken to 9k without solid lifters and valve springs but yes it can be done (nor would that turbo be able to efficiently do it's job at that rpm) as far as cams, mafs respond really well to increased airflow and really isn't a need to retune. After all your getting a mail order tune that's somewhat on thr conservative side so you'll be fine. Launch control can be controlled with a rom tune, yes.

I started ordering more parts anyways. I got the origin streamline body kit, z32 maf, 750cc injectors, GT oil drain kit, 90 & 45 degree couplers for intake & hotpipe, head studs and head gasket.

I was going to order the HKS Actuator kit, it comes with the bracket and all, but it says Increases boost from the stock 7psi to 11-12psi. What if I wanted to go higher then 12psi?

All thats left is the turbo and ECU. Then prob a set of cams. Im just going to go with enthalpy for now, and get a stand alone down the road.

Does anyone have any recommendations on a set of tail lights? I'm not looking for anything to expensive because im grabbing a set of kouki's soon as they are off back order. I seen a set of Circuit sport tails that might hold me over.

I run the hks actuator with a boost controller and see max 25-27 psi. I don't think my turbo can flow much more then that, and I think with the small a/r housing I have with that wastrgate im pretty confident it blows the wastegate open.

ok, I just got a killer price on the gtx2867 with housing, so I might order that today too. Just waiting on a shipping quote.

Does anyone know any tips get cheaper duties crossing the border?

Since you seem to know your stuff I have another question for ya. When ever my car is cold and I try to start it, It revs up, then bogs and spits and sputters to try and stay going to the point the whole car is shaking, then dies. It does this about 3 or 4 start ups, each time it says going a little longer, then eventually it runs fine. Sometimes its really bad, yesterday it was fine after the 2nd start up.

Would a small boost leak cause that?

More problems. Just had the car out for its first test run, ran perfect for the first 10 mins. Soon as I gave it a shot and hit boost it started bogging and died. Couldn't get get going, ended up jump starting it. It idles fine, soon as it hits 3500rpm it spits and spudders and black smoke pours from the exhaust. Even if I hold it to the floor it just sits at 3500 and bogs.

Sounds like a maf issue

Yea It was, got it running back to where it was, its running way to rich tho. The Wideband sits at 10.0 on idle, engine idles at 2500 rpm with the iacv screwed all the way in. It doesn't sound like its idling thst high.

I don't have my oem o2 hooked up. Just the Wideband. The Wideband is only hooked up by power n ground and the connector thst plugs into the o2 sensor, the 2 sensor wires from the Wideband are not hooked up. A guy from enjuku said thsts probably my issue because its not sending a signal to the ecu, and I asked the guys at enthalpy and they said it would not cause this. What do you think

I noticed the cluster gauges are messed up, soon as I turn the key to accessory the tack goes to 1000rpm and the speedo sits at 20kmh. So the idle is prob like 1300rpm. But I was after changing the cluster lights to led and had the needles off. I coulda f*** something up.

Yeah I'd say you didn't put the needles back in the right spot. As far as your wideband I'm not fallowing you but enthalpy is right. The stock ecu only listens to the o2 sensor while in part throttle cruising. It doesn't listen to the o2 when idling or wot. Make sure the screw on the throttle body isn't opening the throttle plate at all, that may be your high idle issue. As for the rich conditions, what maf, ecu, injectors are you using? Fuel pressure? If it idles smooth I wouldn't worry about the afr being rich. Rom tunes tend to idle rich no matter what.

The Wideband has 4 wires, power, ground, and 2 other wires that I think are optional to install. I don't know exactly what there for.

Stock maf, was after replacing the one thst came with the swap. I have a z32 maf home for the other turbo setup.

Stock injectors, replaced all the o-rings.

E6 ecu. I think its stock. I gotta get someone from home to snap
A pic and send it to enthalpy today to see if its modded. When should I take my ready g from the Wideband.

Do u have an email I can send you a video I took of the car running when I was home?

I think the e6 ecu is from an auto sr. Auto ecus sometimes naturally have a high idle because of the way it's tuned from the factory. As far as the ecu being modded, just post a pic up here, as well as a link to the video. The 2 extra wires are usually aux outputs. One is a narrowband simulation and the other wideband output for datalogging on an outside source (via the software it came with for a laptop, or stand alone or piggyback ecu) check the owners manual for your wideband.as long as your running stock maf, untuned ecu, and stock injectors it should run fine unless there is something else wrong