Adding a Turbo to a Stock KA24 (Noobs Read)

Your premier source for information on the Turbo KA: KA24E-T and KA24DE-T (KA with aftermarket turbo kit)!
nissanfanatic
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I only post what I personally make or experience and how I experience.


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Justin VanWinkle
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Alsontime wrote:I agree, I was using a GT28 on my KA-T around 15 psi and switched to a T04E at 15 psi and what a difference. You have to consider that both are running at 15 psi but the T04E can move a larger volume of air at 15 psi, increasing hp.
This leads me to ask: Where is the Boost PSI measured? I always thought it was measured somewhere between the turbo and throttle body... If that's true, then 15psi is 15psi - Right??

I'm saying, you have a sealed tube. You keep this tube regulated at 15psi. Now you poke a hole in this tube, you start pumping in to the tube keep 15psi in there... At this point, you are pushing X amount of air to keep 15psi in this tube... If you were to push more air, you will be increasing beyond your 15psi.

In this case, the tube is your intake, your air input is your turbo, and the hole in the tube is the action of your engine intaking air...

I'll admit that I know next to nothing about a turbo, but I'm just questioning the logic of this... Please correct me if I'm wrong, or if I have missed the point completely....

Thanks guys!!Justin

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2projects2many
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The answer to your question is this. pressure is pressure, but volume is volume. Take and air hose coming off of your air compressor, regulate your air line to 15psi and you'll have 15psi coming out of your air nozzle but with a 3/16" hole, it's not more that much air, now picture a 24" box fan (blowing 15 psi of air) attached to say a 6' piece of 24" diameter tube. Can you imagine the amount of air coming out the end of that tube? Both are blowing 15psi, but the volume difference is HUGE! and than compress that into a chamber and compress it even more.

Hope that helps.

nissanfanatic
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I think you intended to say either

A) DensityorB) Mass

You cannot measure air in volume, only the container in which the air is held. Air has no volume, it has mass, which is affected by density in a given volume container.

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2projects2many
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nissanfanatic wrote:I think you intended to say either

A) DensityorB) Mass

You cannot measure air in volume, only the container in which the air is held. Air has no volume, it has mass, which is affected by density in a given volume container.
Yeah Cory- that's exactly what I meant-but I was referencing the volume as in CFM cubic feet per minute. volume is also relevant to mass and density. see below.

"The volume of an object is equal to its mass divided by its average density. This is a rearrangement of the calculation of density as mass per unit volume.

The term specific volume is used for volume divided by mass. This is the reciprocal of the mass density, expressed in units such as cubic meters per kilogram (m³·kg-1)."

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Justin VanWinkle
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Yes, I understand that... but I still am unable to see the difference here.

You just made the volume of air more at your intake, but the pressure is still the same; Therefor, you still only have 15psi at the intake of your head, and you can only squeeze so much through there.

In other words, you are increasing the size of your compressor; However, the space filled by the air from your compressor to your cylinder is still the exact same. So your volume is the exact same.

The reason I say this is because with the box fan theory you gave me, you are changing the size of the output holes. So now you would have to have a larger volume to be able to regulate at 15psi....

Make sense?

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2projects2many
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Justin VanWinkle wrote:Yes, I understand that... but I still am unable to see the difference here.

You just made the volume of air more at your intake, but the pressure is still the same; Therefor, you still only have 15psi at the intake of your head, and you can only squeeze so much through there.

In other words, you are increasing the size of your compressor; However, the space filled by the air from your compressor to your cylinder is still the exact same. So your volume is the exact same.

The reason I say this is because with the box fan theory you gave me, you are changing the size of the output holes. So now you would have to have a larger volume to be able to regulate at 15psi....

Make sense?
I think I understand what you are saying, all I know is it happens. Yes two turbos of different size blowing 15 psi may be equal, however the larger turbo is working less to match the smaller turbo which is maxing it's output, thus the larger one has plenty of forced air on tap when needed, where the smaller will leave the engine wanting more. In retrospect I see how you'd say it's the same, pretty much the only reason to buy a larger turbo is to push more boost, not to hold it back. To some the smaller may be suitable, but it's an addiction, and from many people's advice, it's better to go a little bigger in the beginning so you have some "growing" room in the future. I'm no scientist, I wish I knew how to explain it better and plainer- but it just makes sense to me.

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NissanPride247
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Wow truly great article! Very good overview. I'll think about keeing the K instead of the SR.

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addisonblck
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to all of the above...... dis sh@# helps out alot.ive ben lookin round n round for these q's & a's n aint found nuttin.butu this is sum good stuff.

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AH240sx
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Lol..if I hadn't read this first. I think I would have bought forged internals when my goals for right now are only 7psi on the KA

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WDRacing
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Glad we can help fella's...

taco_401
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it will help out all nobbs

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WDRacing
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This forum is only as good as it's members.

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Nismo240driver
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helped out alot since i am only aiming for 250ish hp..thanks nice write up!

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advanceKEN240
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great write up......helped alot and gave me an idea of wat i need to do. thanks

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GTR PrYdE
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This is a great read, it should be promted automatically to new members... seriously.

Chris_240SX_77
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I would have to say that I am a noob and this write up was a HUGE help... especially since I just went out and spent 35 bucks for a compression tester to find that my #4 cylinder was well below the 155psi. Definitely saved me big time, now I know for sure it's time for a rebuild before I go any further.

This forum R0CKS

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zaza240sx
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great write up helped out alot

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1991h9
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thanks for that write up, i was wanting to do a ka`t set up , but in the back of my mind i think about some pics ive seen, and most sr`s look much more simpler( not as much wires everywhere) or is that just cause of the a/c and other crap?

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WDRacing
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As far as the engine harness is concerned there are the same amount of wires. Since each motor has roughly the same sensors required to make it run.

Many times when you do some work on the KA, you can hide the wiring a lot better then the factory did. Running it through the intake manifold etc instead of on top.

WD

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Chuki-ChanStarr
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I plan on working with my KA... so this helps BIGTIME! ty!

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1991h9
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that helped alot, but i need to know what i need to have to handle the power i`ll end up wanting, 350whp, i know i have to rebuild it because it has 177,000 miles, but it runs like a champ still. so what should i replace and upgrade. Thanks

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WDRacing
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1991h9 wrote:that helped alot, but i need to know what i need to have to handle the power i`ll end up wanting, 350whp, i know i have to rebuild it because it has 177,000 miles, but it runs like a champ still. so what should i replace and upgrade. Thanks
Make a new thread so we can discuss it.

Ballboygordon
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Honestly, with my experience in KA-T I have found that 350ish HP is very achievable on the stock engine as long as you have a good tune. Whether it's megasquirt, jwt, AEM EMS, E-manage..whatever as long as it doesn't get too lean and it pulls enough timing. So far, I have noticed that the best results across the board have come with the Enthalpy tune. Their AFR's are almost always dead on around 11.5 across the board, and several guys run their KA-Ts great with it. I think that the main thing that kills KA-Ts is overboosting and under fueling.

cksidewayz
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awesome forum! though i have to ask, I have heard that you can take sohc internals to a dohc KA and that will assist in getting it turbo ready...is that accurate. a friend and i just got a 65,000 mile KA from an S14 and we would like to boost it.

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WDRacing
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The DOHC 9.5:1 cpmpression ratio is fine for boost. The higher compression yeild better off boost driving as well as gas mileage. You will need the timing retarded reguardless of what compression ratio you end up with.

I wouldn't worry about lowering the compression unless you want to run a lot of boost and make some serious power. In which case I would also recommend forged internals.

WD

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Chris-s14
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Damn, nice wrtie up man. much thanks!!

ken240sx
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As far as I'm aware, the KA comes with forged rods and crank from the factory. This, along with the iron block and 2.4L of displacement me seem to be why the KA can handle great amounts of power on factory internals. If your goals are only 350whp, the stock engine can take it reliably if it is in good condition. I'll be doing a rebuild when I get back to NY where my 240 is. I am replacing all gaskets and seals, getting the block tested for cracks and cleaned up a bit, arp main and head studs, clevite bearings, stock rods, stock pistons, new stock rings, p&p and a 3 angle valvejob, oversized valves, v3 cams and an upgrade to the valvetrain and switching to dual springs, port matching the mani, new oil pump and timing kit, 72lb injectors(using larger than needed for ability to upgrade). All running about a grand. My goal is as close to 400whp as I can get with safe afr's and timing using a biki-rom. I plan to further upgrade the bottom end when I desire more power and get some more money by installing a BC 2.65L stroker kit with the counterweighted crank, also upgrading the turbo from my current T04b35(not sure yet what size i'll be looking at tho).

I'd say if you're going to boos the stock engine with no rebuild then stick between 250whp-300whp if you're looking for power and reliability. If it's not as much of a DD or you are willing to push it more, the engine can handle much more, just depends on the condition of it and your tune like others have said. People have blown their engines running under 300hp and many have over 400whp that have yet to replace stock internals. Tuning is pretty much the most important thing you can do.

I've compression tested my stock KA at 180,xxx miles on it and it came to 170 across the board +- 4psi. I was thrilled, until i then threw a 150hp shot of nitrous at it while in first and my afr **** the bed, I went lean all the way to 16:1 and now I'm rebuilding lol.

taco_401
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good info

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gemballamiragegt
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Hey guys im new to NICO and dont know a great deal about the Nissan 240. im planning on buying one this summer and am trying to get parts and stuff mapped out. here is what im think for my turbo set up. any input would be helpful, thanks.-TurboFab Top Mount Turbo Manifold-Garrett T3/T04E Turbo-Tial 38mm Wastegate-Peakboost 38mm Dump Pipe-GReddy BOV-Godspeed Intercooler Kit

will this be a decent set up or no?


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