Here is my oil separator installed. I got it from Jegs for $45. It has a oil drain at the bottom. Ill post results in a few thousand miles. Im at 1500 miles right now on new engine. It doesnt pull much air as my SS but when you WOT you can see the air pass thru the separator.

now thats what i call a close up shot!!! you can clearly see what/where you tapped into. ill be doing mine this weekend.

unlike some people (kenAZ ) who like to take pics of their car in pitch black darkness and expect us to see what they are talking about!

j/k lol

LOL!!! I took that with my phone. If you get one like I have make sure the line that comes from the intake goes on the IN side and the OUT goes to the TB. If you have a clear one also you can get someone to mash the gas and see it work. Good luck.

what is the purpose of this device? And what do u do with the oil it collects?

mexillis wrote:what is the purpose of this device? And what do u do with the oil it collects?

It's purpose is to collect oil so you can drink it - it gets you really messed up! So bad you'd probably have to go to the hospital - lol just kiddin - don't drink it - lol

It prevents the crankcase oil from getting ingested into the engine. basically it is supposed to give you more power because oil has the equivilent octane of diesel fuel - which is bad for gas engines. How much more power - who knows if any but it just makes you feel better that your engine isn't drinking oil where it's not supposed too.

Here is some oil after 300 miles. Its working and should help with blue smoke start up. I was starting to get some even with the new engine. Havent had anymore since I added this.

New2Import,

What parts if any did you need to get besides the oil sep its self (link below)? Looks easy enough, is there any instructions to follow?

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/52205/10002/-1

Nice! Any of my y34 (03-04) brothers done this? I dont have any oil consumption/blue smoke issues, but I'd be curious to see if the Y34 is capable of such a setup and with detailed pics.

dvan wrote:New2Import,

What parts if any did you need to get besides the oil sep its self (link below)? Looks easy enough, is there any instructions to follow?

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/52205/10002/-1

All you need is hose and clamps. I have to say it works. I drain it about every 700 miles. I havent measured the consumption but the PCV system pulls some oil. I have a new engine and before I installed this I got blue smoke again. After install nada. Ive put a catch can on all 4 of my vehicles and all pull oil.

Since conventional oil is a blend of base stocks there are different volatilities for different fractions. {light weight stuff boils of faster] leaving thicker heavier viscosities after 1,000>2,000 miles.

True pure synthetics have all the base stock as one chemical with the same molecular size [Daltons] so less boil off and less in any PCV TRAP.

Why true pure synthetics have less gunk in plenum than hydrocracked blends or worse.

I am putting the order in today for the jegs, My M45 is eating a little over a quart of oil over 1k miles. The car runs great other than this issue.

I also tossed in a can of Bg44k today.

did you use the fuel line hoses suggested by jegs, along with the clamps? I think I read somewhere to get specific oil line hoses.

thanks!

iwantyourcar wrote:I am putting the order in today for the jegs, My M45 is eating a little over a quart of oil over 1k miles. The car runs great other than this issue.

I also tossed in a can of Bg44k today.

did you use the fuel line hoses suggested by jegs, along with the clamps? I think I read somewhere to get specific oil line hoses.

thanks!

The hose just needs to be structurally sound to resist collapsing since it will be under vacuum. It also needs to resist oil so that it doesn't swell or turn to mush.

Oil or fuel injection hose fits both bills

Because the pics provided are from the 2nd gen. I'm wondering about placement of the seperator for the Y34.

Specifically, on the Y34, there appears to be a hose coming from each valve cover that then feeds into one tube going to the intake. I pulled hoses from the single feed to the intake and the pass side VC and see oil in both.

I'm about to install this device and will order 2 if I need to for each VC...or just one and connect it just on the hose feeding the intake.

So do I just need one seperator and mount it to the driver's side of the engine where the hoses currently feed the intake (as in the pic) or do I need 2, one for each side of the block?

Thanks in advance...

By weighing the volume in the trap you can see the ratio that evaporates from the crankcase oil vs the amount that gets sucked into combustion chamber passed the rings.

Normally PCV passes about 10% depending on oil type and brand.

The first Q45 [1989] had wire brushes inside PCV lines to condense oil vapor into a liquid for easy [sic] cleaning. Undereducated mechanics threw these brushes away instead of cleaning hose [with solvent] and wondered why the plenum got gunked up.

Same thing with failure to clean or replace PCV valve at reasonable intervals CHANGING the vacuum and easy air flow at idle and steady cruise [when vacuum occurs].

Great background info.

Was it intended to assist with my question or was it meant as great background info?

You only need one. Find the line that they both feed to the TB and tap in there. Make sure when you install that the line from the valve covers goes IN and Out to the TB. To test have someone WOT while you look at it and you will see the vapors.

Q45tech wrote:Same thing with failure to clean or replace PCV valve at reasonable intervals

What is a good or reasonable interval to (a) clean and then (b) replace the PCV valve?

Z

New2Import wrote:You only need one. Find the line that they both feed to the TB and tap in there. Make sure when you install that the line from the valve covers goes IN and Out to the TB. To test have someone WOT while you look at it and you will see the vapors.

Please also take detailed before-and-after pictures of where you tap in (and specifically what is meant by "tap" in this context! Do you have to cut existing tubing? Rubber? Metal? Other? Or simply move some tubing from one connector to another?)

Details, please!! I am also interested in doing this change to my Y34 and am far more of a novice at things like this than I would like ... so detailed pictures will help a lot!

Z

szhosain wrote:
Please also take detailed before-and-after pictures of where you tap in (and specifically what is meant by "tap" in this context! Do you have to cut existing tubing? Rubber? Metal? Other? Or simply move some tubing from one connector to another?)

Details, please!! I am also interested in doing this change to my Y34 and am far more of a novice at things like this than I would like ... so detailed pictures will help a lot!

Z

Follow the hose in the pic above. No cutting at all. You just remove the tube going into the TB and install the separator in between the TB and the point to where both tubes from the each valve cover meet. Very simple.

Intervals of inspection depends on annual mileage driven in what form city traffic vs highway cruise. As with many things once per year should be enough.

I usually remove pcv and solvent spray clean, make sure it rattles crisply when shook and reinstall.

With modern electronic throttle remember oem proceedure to retain calibration when removing to view interior of plenum for pcv/egr dirty buildup.

Q45t,

Thanks again for that info. (You too Newtoimport!) It's an area I'll tackle once the seperator goes in.

Are there 2 PCV devices? I see one on top of the pass side valve cover but could not clearly see one on the driver's side valve cover.

I have a question about removing the TB for cleaning also. I've seen stories from people who cleaned the TB only to have to have the dealer recalibrate the throttle. I've seen the detailed manual recalibration procedure as well. (I ain't skeered!)

My question is in regards to removing & cleaning the TB:

1. If I disconnect all hoses & cabling and unbolt the TB from the car, what specifically about that procedure will require the recalibration? Is there a part that others remove such as the TPS that causes the recalibration to be needed?

2. Do you recommend the recalibration procedure be done after cleaning the TB anyway?

3. After the seperator is installed, I also plan to temporarily add in a section of hose to the vacuum lines that has a small hole in it so that I can add (inject) in a 1/2 bottle or so of something like Seafoam in attempt to rid the intake of existing deposits. Would this be effective in your opinion (or at least effecrtive short of removing the intake for a physical cleaning)?

Ordered the catch can. I'll work on a write up too.

Do I need to open a new topic for the TB cleanout question above?

bumping this up. I just put one in on my car and I could tell oil passes through and into the TB. I will post pics on my collection when I put some mileage on it.

Any use in this for the V6 guys?

mexillis wrote:bumping this up. I just put one in on my car and I could tell oil passes through and into the TB. I will post pics on my collection when I put some mileage on it.

In for results and better pics

What kinda pics would you like??? I used the ones here to install mine. Pretty straight forward when you look at it under the hood in person, it took me like 10 minutes to install.

I would like close-up pics of what need to be tapped into, What 2 points of the car needs to be used.

For some reason with the pic above everytime I try to zoom-in on them they get smaller and smaller, I only have this problem with this site.

Alright I'll hook it up with some pics when the weather clears.

Here's some pics & info that may assist. y34-oil-seperator-installed-52k-warning-t463563.html

I need to do this to mine.