abs/ hatch release/ burnouts

Post by **collk88** » Tue Jan 28, 2003 4:10 pm

ok i have a few questions/problems. first of all how can i find out if my 93 240sx has abs?? where could i locate it under the hood? the next is my trunk/hatch release lever on the floor next to my seat doesnt pop the hatch. isnt it supposed to pop the lid up? i have to hold the lever up and have someone else lift it to open it. also when i use the key to open it from the back, i have to hold the key sideways and lift it open. the next question is probably going to sound stupid but how do i do a burnout/donut with my car. this is my first car and i want to try it but i dont want to screw up my clutch or anything.

Post by **Silvia007** » Tue Jan 28, 2003 4:10 pm

1. to find out if you have abs... the abs unit is located next to where the firewall and fender meet on the passenger side. It's a big bulky thing that has the brake lines from the brake master cylinder/booster running into it. If you don't have abs, the cruise control unit will be there instead.

2. Check the locking mech. in the hatch door, it's probably bad, run to a junkyard and rip one off.

3. Step on brakes with your right foot using ur toes, then rev the motor using ur right foots heel, step on clutch with left foot, put gear in one, drop the clutch. To do doughnut, turn steering wheel all the way to left or right depending on the direction you want to be doing the doughnut. Rev motor, put gear in 1, and drop the clutch.

Have fun!

Post by **collk88** » Tue Jan 28, 2003 4:10 pm

how many rpm should i drop the clutch? should i rev it high?

Post by **GodDrivesA240sx** » Tue Jan 28, 2003 4:10 pm

I wouldn't turn the wheel completley all the way, you might blow up the power steering pump after a few turns

Post by **Silvia007** » Tue Jan 28, 2003 4:10 pm

Rev it to 3-4 k, depending on how easy it is to spin out ur wheels, and yeah I suppose if there's a possibility of blowing ur power steering pump then don't turn ur steering wheel all the way.

Post by **Dragon240** » Tue Jan 28, 2003 4:10 pm

I have the same hatch problem, very annoying. Did you make any progress with yours?

Post by **topless@vabeach** » Tue Jan 28, 2003 4:10 pm

For that hatch problem. Replace the gas shocks ( I think this is what they are called) that push and hold the trunk up. My convertible trunk did the same thing. Go to Auto Zone and buy two new gas shocks for the hatch. What is happening is when you pop the locking arm, the shocks do not have enough push in them to lift the trunk/hatch. If you added a silly riced out honda wing on your car you will need a stronger gas shock to push it up.

Post by **240canuck** » Tue Jan 28, 2003 4:10 pm

as for the abs question do what I did go up to stop sign at about 20 km/h whatever that is in miles and slam the brake pedal to the floor if the wheels lock up you don't got abs, if they don't lock up you got abs!!!!!

Caution: do not try this test at higher speeds uncontrolable skiding and death may occur.

Post by **collk88** » Tue Jan 28, 2003 4:10 pm

i replaced the gas shocks already but that didnt help and i only have the stock spoiler on the trunk. when i pull the release lever i have to hold it up and have someone else open the trunk or else when i let go of it the trunk locks again

Post by **Dragon240** » Tue Jan 28, 2003 4:10 pm

While i was searching for my rear end leak yesterday I noticed another problem with mine that may be related to the hatch popping issue. It is appearantly not closing on the latch properly because if you push up on it just slightly the cargo light comes on. Now I didn't look into it much and the light sensor may be elsewhere but i would say adjusing the latch down somewhat would be beneficial may make it a bit harder to get shut but it would be less distance for the hatch latch to travel before it was free from the locking mechanism.

Post by **topless@vabeach** » Tue Jan 28, 2003 4:10 pm

WHen you replaced your gas shocks did you check to see how much lift they had on them. They are rated for so many pounds. If you bought the replacement ones that fit and didnt see how much lift you had then that could be your problem. Remember just because it fits doesnt mean its the right part. Hell look at most hondas, the part fits but it still looks like ***

Post by **ricebike** » Tue Jan 28, 2003 4:10 pm

on the hatch...

there's 2 rubber bumpers; i'm thinking of goin to a hardware store (homedepot/lowes/etc) and getting some rubber spacers that normally go on the bottom of wooden chairs' legs so they won't scratch the floor... stack some on the bumpers until the hatch can "pop" up when you pull the lever/turn the key...

too bad they're not adjustable like the 2 rubber bumpers for the hood.

soo what do you guys think of that quick fix? I'm in no hurry to try this.

PS: do you also have a prob w/ the gas door release? I do..I sometimes have to push down on the lever a few times until it opens up...any fixes on that?

Post by **Lsnaple** » Tue Jan 28, 2003 4:10 pm

i have the same problem with the fuel door, and a similar problem with the hatch. i figure that when i quit being so damn lazy i will try and tighten the ''cord'' somehow so that it pulls harder therefore opening either the fuel door or hatch.

Post by **Antjaw** » Tue Jan 28, 2003 4:10 pm

Ok Guys.. Had the same problem with my trunk shocks.. I think it must happen to em all.. I have owned 3 240's and all had the same issue.. anyway.. I found good replacements that work.... I live in florida and I dont know if the have the store autozone nation wide.. but that is where I got the replacements..They are called Mighty Lift Hatch and they go for 25 bucks.. Part number is C95223.. If you want more info on this go to http://www.autozone and do a search for "Trunk".

As for the Gas door.. I have the same problem.. I have to push that thing through the floorboard to make the door open.. If anyone has a fix for that please post it.

Post by **collk88** » Tue Jan 28, 2003 4:10 pm

hate to break it to ya but i bought the same mighty lift shocks and installed them. still doesnt "pop" the hatch when i pull the lever...sigh:( i guess its the lock mechanism, anyway im going to have a guy look at it when i bring it in to have the nasty stock rubbe spoiler taken off and the rust damage it caused to the hatch fixed. if anyone still has any ideas im open to them. thanks

Post by **topless@vabeach** » Tue Jan 28, 2003 4:10 pm

Quote »i have to hold the lever up and have someone else lift it to open it.[/quote]It cant be the locking mech if you can hold the lever up and someone can lift your hatch/trunk. That is telling you the lock is disengaged but the shocks cant push the trunk/hatch up.

Post by **lucas_420** » Tue Jan 28, 2003 4:10 pm

I have seen this thing about the hatch in an earlier thread. what was decided there is that if replacing the struts doesnt work it is the hatch its self. Do you have a wing? people in the other thread had experiance with the foam nissan wing weighing down the hatch to the point that when the latch is popped, the hatch doesnt leave the locking mechanism and it just closes back onto it. I have this problem with my hatch to where it takes 2 hands to open with keys.... a real pain when I have my hands full.

the only real fix to this that I can think of (unless the stronger shocks are enough) is to extend the rubber stoppers like ricebike said, so when opened the hatch actually gets out of the lock.

Post by **collk88** » Tue Jan 28, 2003 4:10 pm

yea its the same thing with keys, you need both hands to open it. i only have the factory foam wing but thats coming off next week so maybe that might fix it......

Post by **ricebike** » Tue Jan 28, 2003 4:10 pm

i just did the mod... it works for me! now to try to fiddle w/ the fuel door... i think the cable is stretched, though.

from what i recalled...waay back from motormite... there were 2 listings for the hatch struts one w/ a spoiler & one w/out

Post by **JDM_180SX** » Tue Jan 28, 2003 4:10 pm

i got the same problem on my hatchback, but the key always opens it, and sometimes the lever does but ill have to mess with for a couple of minutes. my gas lid works fine though, but im guessing its gonna eventullay go bad. if everyone elses does.

Post by **Mike09** » Tue Jan 28, 2003 4:10 pm

yep, i've had the same problem with my hatch, but haven't tried to fix it yet. Maybe i'll get new shocks.

Post by **signal180sx** » Tue Jan 28, 2003 4:10 pm

if this is your first car, then i suggest you don't do it to regret latter results

Post by **Dragon240** » Tue Jan 28, 2003 4:10 pm

I think it's a malfunction in the nissan engineering department.. I had a sentra before my 240 and that latch wouldn't pop the damn trunk either had to jiggle and push a few times.. As for my hatch its not got a spoiler or anything on it and it still won't pop.. Wouldn't even pop when I had the wiper motor/wiper off (Therefore no weight but the hatch) I'll try the new struts but I don't think thats gonna help because of the angle the struts are left at when the hatch is down.. gravity is a b***h. Longer bumpers from another type of vehivle might make a little prettier solution or something..

Post by **normaspirated** » Tue Jan 28, 2003 4:10 pm

I've also found out that weather makes a HUGE difference in the gas shocks working correctly.

Cold weather = very hard to lift and won't hold it self up from time to timeWarm/Hot weather = easy as pie and holds itself.

edit: Sorry for resurrecting an old thread.

Post by **crzycav86** » Tue Jan 28, 2003 4:10 pm

I posted this in the mechanic forum a few minutes ago:

Well i fixed my hatch today(it would have taken about 2 minutes).

Basically you remove that plastic cover, then loosen the two top nuts that cover the lock. Then push the whole lock assembly down.(It should go down about 3 mm.) Then retighten the two nuts.. and you're done!

I never would have thought of this if my dad hadn't butted in while I was working on the car, and he solved the problem in a few minutes.

Post by **corn322** » Tue Jan 28, 2003 4:10 pm

who had the fuel door problem? mine didn't pop out, so I took the door off and took a good look at it. there's a spring in there, and if you look at if for a while you'll see if it's broken or not. now when I pull the lever I can here it pop, and it opens all the way by itself

Post by **180fan** » Tue Jan 28, 2003 4:10 pm

I had the same problem on my car. Here was my solution.

hatch:check the lock location. Adjust the location of the lock down, there are some adjuster bolts holding the locking mechanism in place. That needs to be moved downwards by loosening the lock bolts, and physically moving the lock mechanism down. What is going on is that the part that holds up the U shaped part on the hatch isn't given enough space to work because the U shaped part itself is too far down in the lock, hence the moving of the lock mechanism down.

gas filler:check to make sure the back seat is not holding down on the cable that runs under it to the gas filler door. Next thing to check, on the gas filler door you'll see the lock that gets held in by a plastic wedge that gets actuated by that cable. On the lock part on the door itself, push that back just a tiny bit. Next thing to inspect, check the lever itself. With the back seat out, lift the entire cable so it will have some slack in it then pull on the lever and push on the lever, this will unlock both your hatch and your gas filler.

Post by **Dragon240** » Tue Jan 28, 2003 4:10 pm

I suggested the lock thing months ago.. but nobody listens to me.. What do I know?

Post by **ricebike** » Tue Jan 28, 2003 4:10 pm

weird how this got resurrected... i yanked those "spacers" off since they look too ghetto & tried dragon's way as well when he posted after me... his way works just great!

Post by **ralphdig** » Tue Jan 28, 2003 4:10 pm

For the hatch it´s as easy as crzycav86 & 180Fan said: no more than 3 minutes, i fixed mine to day.

Open the hatch will no longer be a two people team move.

abs/ hatch release/ burnouts

abs/ hatch release/ burnouts

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