themadscientist wrote:

float_6969 wrote:

Is the a goddamned Fram filter Ryan? (never mind, I just saw the post before mine) You know better than that.
They don't call them the "orange death" for nothing.
I hope your motor isn't damaged.

Here is what is inside one of those things.


A dude cuts one apart, disgust and outrage ensues.
http://www.dslreports.com/forum/r218833 ... TER-REVIEW

Look at the material inside float's filter, it looks like a sponge, nothing like the filter element or cardboard backing plate ... Float, did you pull the material out of the filter and see hte catridge was damaged on the inside?

Mike, do those jets have a check valve in them? I thought they were just an opening? If not, are you not worried about oil starvation in the head during startup? I'm assuming the whole purpose of this valve is to keep the galleys full. With out it, the oil will drain out of the block and you'll pump a bunch of air into the lifters every time you start the engine, making them noisy for a few minutes.

From what I can find, Nissan put a valve similar in design to this in every DOHC motor they built with these types of liters. I'm assuming it was for the purpose described above.

It's a really simple valve. It doesn't even have a spring it it. If I can't find a replacement, I KNOW I can have one made from scratch.

It's not a sponge. I think it's the paper he was talking about that kept falling apart. I tried to pull it out, but it just tore into little pieces.

Sweet jesus, i've heard of this problem before, they need to fix that stuff soon, some of us dont have money to be taking risks on our engines.

i heard that they had some sort of coverage clause for this kind of stuff, i would of sent the unmolested filter to them and went from there

Some good news! I finally found a local machine shop who says they can build the new check valve. He wants the block to machine the part to fit the opening exactly though, so I'm gonna have to pull the block out of the engine bay. Fortunately, all I really have to do to pull the engine is remove the nuts on the motor mounts and remove the transmission bolts/gussets and lift it out. I'll probably pull it tomorrow and get it down to them. He thinks he'll have it done before the weekend! I'm sure the bill won't be nice, but it'll be less than a new block and machine work to fit my pistons!

terrific news actually! Now just never use another Fram filter again :P

This isn't really isolated to Fram filters... Here at the dealership I've seen numerous newer GM's with failed motors due to not using a OEM filter. Most prominatly the 4.2 l...

@sjbsuperman1425: Yea, leasson learned. I'll stick to my Purolators/Wix/Amsoil filters, even if it means going another 500 miles on the oil till they have my filter in stock.

@cdkilla: There are other filters that are manufactured by the same manufacturer that makes Fram filters. Perhaps they were the same filter? Who were the other manufacturers?

Update to first post.

WOW, the machine shop is done already! Not even 24hrs since I dropped it off! Should have pics tonight.

I would have to look to be sure, but I wanna say mostly like the wal-mart supertech filter.

I buy Bosch filters by the case of 12 and I buy 12 gallons of Yamalube synthetic 4 cylce marine oil. I hate having to go get the oil and filter when I need to change my oil. Thats the most inconvenient part. I prefer the marine lube tho since it does have to live in a 6500rpm 4.2L v6 outboard at 100hr intervals and we all kno boats get the sh*t run out of them for about 99.5 of those 100 hours. The inside of my engine was also always soooooooooo clean.

I use Mecafilter or Mann oil filters, never had any problems.

Hmm, I just had an idea. I'll make a new post...

First post updated with pics of new part.

float_6969 wrote: 3-19-11: Well, no luck at Nissan. I have a part number (11036-D4200), but the part is No Longer Available. To add insult to injury, the retail price on the part is only about $1. He checked all the Nissan dealers in the US and none of them have it.

I was able to order two pieces of this item from Humphris Oxford in the UK via their online store http://www.online-parts.co.uk/nissan/pr ... 9PZ9LF9X0c.
It took a while because they had to order them from the Land of the Rising Sun
I can confirm that there is no spring inside this part. It works as a one-way valve just by gravity.

Awesome! I'm glad you were able to come up with one. I ended up removing the one I had made during ANOTHER rebuild (the rebuild after this issue had an un-deburred 2nd ring on the 4th piston and scored the cylinder wall) I was just going to put a restrictor in the block and forgo the check valve, but if I can get one, I'll definitely put one in!

Good information to know about Fram I have been using fram for years with no issue, But after reading this I don't think I want to take that chance anymore...

OMG!

I was about to be really sad when I saw the Float CA pulled from the car. But I guess everything is good to go and back to normal? I almost had a heart failure seeing one of the most long term CAs had failed somehow.........Glad it was just a close call!

LOL, this CA has had a rough life. I bought it as a front cut. Installed it and within a year, it was buring oil so bad I had to rebuild it. That lasted a few years, then the oil filter failed, then I rebuit it again and I had low compression on one cylinder. It's still apart now for ANOTHER rebuild.

I feel less bad about mine not running for nearly 5 years. (though more because the car was wrecked, the engine despite open TB and thus useless MAF was able to drive the car on/off the flatbed and around the driveway just fine!)

Wow, 5 years... I really need to make the time to swap it into my new chassis.

do eet! I'm headed outside now to finish filing ring end gaps and start bottom end assembly!

float_6969 wrote:do eet! I'm headed outside now to finish filing ring end gaps and start bottom end assembly!

Why do you have to go outside to file your stupid rings ? What is wrong with you, man? What can't you just do it in the garage or in your kitchen or something? Are you losing it? Still love you, buddy ! On another note, I know about weird CA engines as well. I have one in my sentra that I'm monitoring and it's a fresh rebuild. All others run like a champ, but this one has personal dramas and I personally file-fitted my rings. I believe us old-schoolers are being punished or something for having too much success and hoarding too many parts .

Outside.. to the garage, smartass! LOL!!! Yea, there has to be a penalty some how for all these damn parts, LOL

Maybe that's why the motor in my Pulsar seized. Or maybe it's because I took the CA18DET license plate off for the sale and it got confused and though it was an SR

I haven't had any luck getting the check valve from the UK. I emailed them for an update and never got a response. After some digging though, this seems to be a common part. From what I can tell, the same part out of the VG30DE(TT) in the early models is very similar. I think the only difference is the size of the center opening. I went ahead and ordered one and I should have it in a day or so.

I'm assuming this is the valve that goes in the deck of the block to control oil to the head? Have you considered drilling and tapping the block for a carb jet (I think it was TMS who suggested this) even though there would be no check valve operation to it?

Yea, but I think I have a solution. I ordered one for a Z32. They're still available for some reason and are easy to get in the US. I'm about 90% sure it has the same physical dimensions. The only thing I'm not sure of is the size of the internal hole opening. Luckily, I took that measurement and posted it in this thread, so when it comes in today, I'll be able to check it and see if it's the same size. My guess is that the internal diameter will be smaller, since it's designed to feed oil to a head with only 3 cylinders instead of 4. If that's the case, I'm pretty sure I can just drill it out to the correct size.

The issue with a carb jet, for me, is that I've already had all the block work done. It would suck to have to have it taken back and have the lines flushed again.

Z32 Check valve works!!! You have to get the one from the later model Z32. I found out there were two sizes. The one from the earlier versions was too small. Also, be aware this part is a press fit. DON'T TRY TO HAMMER IT IN OR YOU WILL RUIN IT!!! I heated up that area the block with a MAPP gas torch to about 180°F. I put the check valve in the freezer, and then right before I put it in, I super chilled it with one of those canned air things turned upside down until it was empty. My IR thermometer said it was -12°F, LOL! I still had to tap it in with a plastic faced hammer, but it went it. If you're going to do this, it would be easier to install this part before you assemble the engine. If I ever had to do this again, I would place the block in a hydraulic press, and press the check valve in.

PART NUMBER 11036-1P600

Does that picture work for you guys? I tried to link that same pic on FB and it doesn't work there.