Well, a little knowledge can hurt sometimes. My '91 Q (88K, recent oil change to synthetic) had a very lite idle rumble, tach would be at 650 and fluctuate slightly, not too noticeable. Car was starting to run a little rougher (whine from the front of the motor, pulley?), and I wiggled the MAF. Get back in the car and it is STUMBLING! Almost stalling in D or R and kinda stuttering under acceleration. Don't know if I am describing it well. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks
'91 Q45 possible MAF problem?
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psychic_mechanic
- Posts: 296
- Joined: Wed Jan 07, 2004 6:45 am
- Car: the world's ugliest civic
Yeah, they aren't kidding about the MAF's around here. Luckily I'd been reading the forum for a while before I decided to check my air filter.
I think the MAF could cause both your symptoms, I remember Q45 Tech talking about dirty MAF sensors causing idle speed problems, and the procedure for that is to clean the inside of the MAF with a whole can of brake cleaner. (not sure, double check this first)
For my connector, I used Mopar electrical component cleaner and Q-tips, but pipe cleaners would have worked better. Get off all the green stuff. Then waterproof it with silicone dielectric gel.
I think the MAF could cause both your symptoms, I remember Q45 Tech talking about dirty MAF sensors causing idle speed problems, and the procedure for that is to clean the inside of the MAF with a whole can of brake cleaner. (not sure, double check this first)
For my connector, I used Mopar electrical component cleaner and Q-tips, but pipe cleaners would have worked better. Get off all the green stuff. Then waterproof it with silicone dielectric gel.
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Q45tech
- Moderator
- Posts: 14296
- Joined: Tue Apr 30, 2002 3:19 am
- Car: 1990 Q45 342,400 miles 22 years ownership with original engine
1995 G20t 5 speed 334,000 miles 16" 2002 wheels - 205/50/16 Sr20ve vvl
After 120,000 miles ocassionally we see MAF which have internal problems.
The symptoms are elusive and may involve a single stumble or two [rpm drops to almost zero but driver catchs it with pumping accelerator] as the car warms up; [time from crank varies according to ambient temperature].
Usually solved by replacing the MAF [with a new one] used can be just as bad. After trying many other things.
The symptoms are elusive and may involve a single stumble or two [rpm drops to almost zero but driver catchs it with pumping accelerator] as the car warms up; [time from crank varies according to ambient temperature].
Usually solved by replacing the MAF [with a new one] used can be just as bad. After trying many other things.
There's a procedure in the manual for measuring MAF voltage at the sensor by digging under the insulation a bit. Maybe more than 1 problem at work, since a bad MAF connection won't make a lonely cylinder miss. A closed injector should show up on a ohm test, unless it's clogged with something. Not a chain guide issue.