6 piston calipers?! please help!!

[sr20engineering]

Ok, so i have 4 piston evo 9 brembos for the back of the car.

I want 6 piston somethings for up front. (without breaking the bank)

Ebay has APracing and wilwood from the Nascar teams for like 500-700 for a set of callipers..

Will these even work though? (i will of course need custom brackets made but...) is there something else im missing?

anyone have any input/experience/knowledge on this?

PS I have full z32 brakes right now, so please dont suggest those.. thanks guys

[Promise Land]

why change from 4-pot to 6-pot? what are you doing with this car?

[sr20engineering]

700+hp SR

needs to stop fast for time attack....

is the only thing im working against 'rim clearence' or is there other things that might not 'work'??

thanks!

[csramotorsports]

I'm doing the same thing you are, 600-700hp track car. If you get the proper brackets fabbed up, and lines ran, you should be good to go with a proper matching rotor. What master cylinder setup do you have?

[Amays U G37S]

The 4 piston calipers should be enough. The car doesn't weigh that much. You should install some drilled and slotted rotors of course for braking.

You won't be able to fit 6piston capliers on a 240. Upgrade your 4 piston calipers to something nice other then the Z32 brakes.

[csramotorsports]

The 4 piston calipers should be enough. The car doesn't weigh that much. You should install some drilled and slotted rotors of course for braking.

You won't be able to fit 6piston capliers on a 240. Upgrade your 4 piston calipers to something nice other then the Z32 brakes.

That's complete B.S! Stop talking about s*** you don't know and giving people false information.

[Amays U G37S]

Umad?

Don'tcha think if 6 piston calipers were "normal" to fit on a 240, everyone would have those instead of Z32 brakes?

6 piston calipers will fit a S14, but not a S13.

With fabbing of course.

[csramotorsports]

Well shoot in that case I better call up Wilwood and tell them to stop making there 6pot brake kit for the 240 because they don't fit!

[compactfean]

^word! If they are for the 240 than yes they will work with custom brackets. Just like how you can use the larger brembo z33 rotor with custom brackets and z32 calipers (if you are 5 lug) if not you can drill them to 4 lug. Do it bro! Just be aware of the eBay parts curse! Lol.

[compactfean]

And actually there is a company that makes the caliper extension brackets ....I just don't remember were I seen them.

[sr20engineering]

Ya amays, your tripping, iver personally seen at least 3-4 (6 piston s14's) IN PERSON.... one on 17" rims!!!
take 2 secs and google "6 piston s14"
ha!

but no they arent s14 specific... which is why i started this thread...

http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_from=R40&_ ... Categories

look at the link... wilwood, AP racing.. 6 piston calipers... would they work? (with correct rotor brackets and lines?)

or is there something that would make them NOT work?

CSRA- I have the 17/16 MC right now..feels very nice with the s13 brake booster... almost concerned about getting mushy pedal again from 6 upfront 4 in the rear.... but... the car is super baller.. needs baller brakes.... not to mention the improved laptimes lol

thanks guys...

[sr20engineering]

ps it is an s14 chassis.... but wtf.. it would fit on a 13 also lmfao!!

[JDizzle]

Check the nissan road racing forum. There are a few members there that make and sell a wilwood 4/6 piston brackets.

[sr20engineering]

thank u J dizzle!! :P

[sly240]

I think you might be overlooking some things. I don’t know if six pots will fit or not but I’m sure they will if you want them to bad enough. But more pistons or bigger brakes for that matter don’t necessarily mean you will stop quicker.
One thing to look at is the braking balance. There is a lot of stopping power to be gained by making sure all your wheels are using all there traction to stop. They sell brake bias adjusters that will help with that.
If you have 4 pot calipers and they can lock your wheels up on demand and you switch to six pots all other things being equal you will not notice a difference. Because once you lock your wheels up you no longer need more braking force you need more traction. And on most cars with most braking systems the front wheels lock up first so you have unused braking force in the rear. So if you switch to a six piston front calipers and you lock up your front wheels even earlier your rear brakes will be doing even less work.
Also if you don’t get the proper master cylinder you will have a really sloppy or mushy pedal (because you have to move much more fluid to make these six pots work.
So if you are going to go with 6 pots then does some research on the proper master cylinder set up. If it is a track car I prefer the duel master cylinder with the brake bias adjustment bar. This provides with the most control over your brake bias and it is safer because if one should fail you still have the other to do the braking. Once you get this set up then you can worry about pads and such.
Hope my rambling helped.

[sr20engineering]

very true, thats why i have the 4 pot brembos for the back, and the much larger 17/6 brake master...

I disagree with your statement about "not feeling a difference"

6 pot will more than likely get a larger rotor = more surface area = improved braking
also, 6 pistons would also have more surface area than 4 pistons (unless there was some a** backwards engineering happening with tiny 6 pistons, then you might be right.. but i doubt any one does that?)


I agree the bias should be adressed, maximizing the force 'properly' such that it doesnt lock front or back before the other.... drifters put more in the back... road course more up front.... (all the hours ive spent on gran turismo really drive this point home lmfao)

that will mean trial and error on the track...

car is baller - needs baller brakes - im not a baller... hahahaha...

the z32 brakes feel so nice i almost dont want to eff with it... maybe put the brembos upfront and call it a year?
i havent locked up my brakes with this setup.. the car stops so freakn fast i dont have time to apply more pedal pressure to make it lock up... def a good setup.. but im sure illl feel the faults on the track (maybe?)

idk.... i will post pics when its done... now i need an EFR turbo

[sly240]

I Agree that a larger rotor nets better braking performance but more pistons does not mean bigger rotors all though it should but you are after the bigger rotors not the extra pistons in the calipers. And the more surface area(on the rotors) helps more with brake fade than braking power although it does help both. But 6 piston calipers mainly just provide more clamping power. So if your brakes can clamp hard enough to lock up your wheels then you don’t need more clamping power.

I don’t want to give the wrong impression I am not a hater on bigger brakes or six piston calipers I just think that you can get the performance you need from a cheaper well thought out 4 piston setup.

[aaronle06]

Don't forget to taking into consideration the traction pad of the actual tire on the pavement for braking efficiency. The width, diameter and the rubber compound. My question is the estimated percentage of the actual tire build up take into effect of active braking as far as traction goes?

As summed up before by sly240, "...because once you lock your wheels up, you no longer need braking force, but traction."

[OutToWinPAHC]

Umad?

Don'tcha think if 6 piston calipers were "normal" to fit on a 240, everyone would have those instead of Z32 brakes?

6 piston calipers will fit a S14, but not a S13.

With fabbing of course.

Okay they use the same brake setups.... so where did this info come from

[OutToWinPAHC]

As for the swap over - It is possible to use the huge SRT4 brembos with modification to mounting on the knuckle and the rotors fit. I have also seen Porsche calipers used. Basically you need a caliper / rotor that will clear you wheel, then you need to hack off the mounts on the knuckle and weld on new ones properly aligned to bolt the caliper too. If your a good welder with the means to this can be a one day job

[sly240]

There are so many problems with some of what OUT TO WIN said. Not to say you don’t know what you are talking about OUT TO WIN you do and are right on most of what you said I just think you are over looking some stuff.

First most of the calipers we are talking about are ether cast aluminum or cast steel/iron both are very difficult to weld and require preheating and special gasses and procedures. Now I’m not saying you can’t weld on new brackets to make them fit you can but they would never be legal to drive on. They would never get D.O.T approved and would probably not pass any good T.I. (technical inspection). And all of this for good reason they would not be safe. Any failure of the braking system at even a modest 55mph can be fatal for you and anyone else you’re driving around.

Now we haven’t even got to all the problems of fitting it. When you weld anything there is always some warping which could cause unforeseen problems on its own. Also if you don’t get them straight your pads will wear incorrectly. I’m sure there are many more problems that I can’t think of.

Anyway as we have said before even getting bigger calipers won’t by them self’s help stopping distance.

I’m not saying you can’t do it you can. I am just saying that for all the trouble of sourcing caliper’s, rotor’s figuring out how to modify them to fit, paying someone to weld them up and make them work, finding a BMC that pushes the right amount of fluid, just to have some brakes that may or may not stop you faster and are defiantly not street legal. seams like not such a good idea to me

So can it be done yes. But it probably shouldn’t unless you just have to be a baller.

[OutToWinPAHC]

Umm Calipers dont WELD on to the cast iron knuckle.

As you can see the threaded holes where the stock calipers bolt to.

Locate the caliper and rotor of choice.
Cut off caliper mounting holes cleanly
Fit the rotor over the hub and test fit a loaded caliper and measure distance to and between holes.
Using a solid steel plate drill and tape holes and cut plate to shape to clear caliper and knuckle.
Bolt caliper to plate and bolt rotor to the hub at torque spec for wheel
Align caliper, tach weld plate and test rotation
Add gussets to rear of plate and tig weld

Make hoses as needed
Use wilwood BMC with external bias valve, and test
Not so hard, and often done on MANY vehicles.

I agree with your statement of welding calipers, but that is a stupid assumption. Large brakes and odd brake swaps are very common in the world of performance automotive, because of the many needs and lack of bolt on products.

[sly240]

Yeah my bad I misunderstood what you were describing. And you are correct I was going off of most people wanting to just buy a “bolt on BMC” and the biggest calipers with the most piston’s and think they are supper engineers and have made their car “stop on a dime”

I prefer a balanced approach to braking by maximizing braking at all for corners.

P.S. I will be starting a thread on brake proportioning and balance and would love your input. Thanks.

[csramotorsports]

Someone do a ferrari setup!!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/USED-Fer ... ccessories

[compactfean]

700+hp SR

needs to stop fast for time attack....

i dont mean to offend anyone on here but it feels to me that this thread is not going anywhere. for instance.... i would love to see a 700hp sr setup that could do time attack. any turbo that can produce that much power is not going to suit the needs of a time attack race.....not even the new borgwarner turbos. yeah sure...do a Ferrari set up...do a lambo setup. either way if you had to rebuild the calipers or get new rotors itll probly cost more than you would spend on a direct kit for our cars. thats why willwood and brembo make the big bucks. this is all like we used to joke about "lets put a blown big block in a crx" .....till 15 years of joking until someone finally said screw it....ill do it.