Hello all,
This is first post here.
I just got a 520 in pretty nice condition, but the springs in the wiper arms are weak.
The wiperblades make poor contact with the windshield.
They must be secured by a set screw, but I can't see it.
On the inside of the arm, below where the spring attaches, at the base, is a curved engagement bracket.
The screw must be behind that, but I don't want to bend or break anything trying to get access.
I live in Portland OR, and it will be raining almost everyday for months and I need to fix them or replace them.
Anyone know the trick to safely get them off?
520 wiper arm removal
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zoktoberfest
- Posts: 2
- Joined: Thu Nov 29, 2012 11:00 am
- Car: 1968 Datsun 520 pick-up
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Dr.Datsun
- Posts: 1
- Joined: Tue Dec 11, 2012 6:00 pm
- Car: 1972 Datsun 521 (x2, 1 for parts), Previously...
1 1971 Datsun 521,
1 1972 Datsun 521,
2 1978 280z,
1 1979 280z,
1 1979 Datsun Kingcab 620,
1 1988 Nissan Kindcab
Re: 520 wiper arm removal
i know this is a late response, however maybe this will help somone else.... There is no set screw, the arms clip-on, You must raise the wiper arms off the glass, the sping helps put tension on the lock/clip. push a little on the far end at the stud area and it should just pop off. To replace... reverse the procedure, line up the angle you want and just press it back onto the stub and it will just click in to place... hope this helps.
-Dr. D
-Dr. D
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zoktoberfest
- Posts: 2
- Joined: Thu Nov 29, 2012 11:00 am
- Car: 1968 Datsun 520 pick-up
Re: 520 wiper arm removal
Thanks Dr. D. That worked.
The springs were rusted solid and effectively dead, and It was difficult to get them out. Using the old ones I cound match up the new springs. But I would highly recommend, just buying replacement arms from J.C. Whitney, to anyone else in this similar situation. A spring with enough force to do the job, is stiff and needs to pulled with needle nose plyers, while attempting to engage the spring hook through a tiny hole in the bracket tab. I ended up stretching out the spring, by holding one end in a wise and the other with vice grips. I put thin folded wedges from a cut up margerine container into each open loop; paying attention to the orientation of the spring ends with respect to the arm assembly. I kept stuffing those held open loops until the spring was long enough that I could concentrate just on looping the spring-end through the small hole in the tab . Once attached, I pulled out each of those plastic wedges and the spring became fully effective. Now I can see where I'm going in Portland, and that's a good thing:-)
The springs were rusted solid and effectively dead, and It was difficult to get them out. Using the old ones I cound match up the new springs. But I would highly recommend, just buying replacement arms from J.C. Whitney, to anyone else in this similar situation. A spring with enough force to do the job, is stiff and needs to pulled with needle nose plyers, while attempting to engage the spring hook through a tiny hole in the bracket tab. I ended up stretching out the spring, by holding one end in a wise and the other with vice grips. I put thin folded wedges from a cut up margerine container into each open loop; paying attention to the orientation of the spring ends with respect to the arm assembly. I kept stuffing those held open loops until the spring was long enough that I could concentrate just on looping the spring-end through the small hole in the tab . Once attached, I pulled out each of those plastic wedges and the spring became fully effective. Now I can see where I'm going in Portland, and that's a good thing:-)
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