4WAS Failure Statistics?

Post by **Pakitullanc** » Wed Sep 22, 2021 12:06 pm

M37SJoe wrote: ↑
Tue Sep 21, 2021 4:49 am
The BMW Video must have been for a Calibration. You need to verify your Sensor is providing the correct signal on the Primary and Backup Signal Wires. The Signals must be within 1 volt of each other otherwise you get an error. You can purchase a replacement Sensor if you are 100% certain your Angle Sensor is bad. EBay has them. You buy a Rear Steering System from a M35 and get the Motor and the Sensor. The Plug on the Angle Sensor is different but you cut it off anyway. Are you using a Code Reader? What Codes are you getting?

C1138

Post by **Pakitullanc** » Wed Sep 22, 2021 12:14 pm

Pakitullanc wrote: ↑
Wed Sep 22, 2021 12:06 pm

M37SJoe wrote: ↑
Tue Sep 21, 2021 4:49 am
The BMW Video must have been for a Calibration. You need to verify your Sensor is providing the correct signal on the Primary and Backup Signal Wires. The Signals must be within 1 volt of each other otherwise you get an error. You can purchase a replacement Sensor if you are 100% certain your Angle Sensor is bad. EBay has them. You buy a Rear Steering System from a M35 and get the Motor and the Sensor. The Plug on the Angle Sensor is different but you cut it off anyway. Are you using a Code Reader? What Codes are you getting?

C1138

C1686
C1915

Post by **M37SJoe** » Wed Sep 22, 2021 7:46 pm

C1138 is a generic 4WAS Steering Code. There should be mores codes that point to a specific problem.
What Code Reader are you using?

Post by **Pakitullanc** » Thu Sep 23, 2021 4:02 am

C1618
C1915

Post by **M37SJoe** » Thu Sep 23, 2021 8:19 am

I am sending you documents I used to determine my Rear Angle Sensor was OK. I bought a M35 Rear Steering Assembly that had a compatible Motor and Rear Angle Sensor. The Plug was different. The Screenshot Files are from a Document I created but cannot attach due to the file format.
I tested my Rear Angle Sensor and my Motor. Both were OK. This is when I suspected the Connector.

Post by **Pakitullanc** » Thu Sep 23, 2021 8:59 am

I bought a used connector wire off ebay. My 4was light used to come on after 20mph to immediately when you start after replacing with the ebay connector. Dmiles140 used your trailing wire to fix his. But then had similar start up light coming on. He did the calibration to solve his issues with a Multimeter. He thought I need to recalibrate by using a Multimeter and turn the clockwise until they all within 1 volt and then tighten the screws and start to see if the light goes off. Is that still accurate. Do you I can skip to the calibration step with the Multimeter? Which attachment is the Multimeter step by step.
Thx

Post by **M37SJoe** » Thu Sep 23, 2021 11:29 am

I did not calibrate my Rear Angle Sensor. I just reinstalled it exactly where it was originally.

Post by **Pakitullanc** » Thu Sep 23, 2021 2:44 pm

M37SJoe wrote: ↑
Thu Sep 23, 2021 11:29 am
I did not calibrate my Rear Angle Sensor. I just reinstalled it exactly where it was originally.

So I just replaced the cable on page3 with the yellow highlight around it. I thought while the multimeter is attached to the cable I rotate it to see when the voltage is with in 1 and tighten the screws and the light goes off. Evidently I am missing something. M37SJoe if I am frustrating you with my lack of knowledge. I went to a automotive electrical mechanic who had great google reviews but he too was like I have never worked on anything like this. He said leave it for a couple of days so he check all the different fuses in the front and trunk and check the wiring

Post by **M37SJoe** » Thu Sep 23, 2021 3:46 pm

I would not have posted any of this if I didn't want to help others who have the same problem. It's Ok that you are not as knowledgeable as others as we all are experts in some things and laypersons in others. My fix was 3 years ago and no issues whatsoever since. 2 years ago was the Sport Muffler and exhaust pipes (up to the Cats) replacement. Can you post the Page 3 with yellow highlights? It has to be done in the "Full Editor & Preview" mode and has to be a jpg or png file format.

Post by **Pakitullanc** » Thu Sep 23, 2021 5:06 pm

Hopefully this posts

Post by **M37SJoe** » Thu Sep 23, 2021 5:59 pm

You replaced the Rear Angle Sensor and Cable but what about the mating Connector that is a part of the Car's Wiring Harness?

Post by **Pakitullanc** » Thu Sep 23, 2021 6:51 pm

What does that look like

Post by **Pakitullanc** » Thu Sep 23, 2021 6:56 pm

Ok, I see that is the trailering wire you modified. But what about the light coming on immediately vs when the car hit 20mph previously

Post by **M37SJoe** » Fri Sep 24, 2021 4:09 am

If you did not replace both side of the connector, you cannot be 100% sure it is not the problem. Driving the car at 20 mph means you are moving and possibly subjecting the connector to vibration or a bump in the road that impacts the connector. A parts technician at a Texas Infiniti Dealership told me that the connector is known to be problematic. Guessing what a problem is not the way to fix the car. Testing and eliminating each component (including wiring and connectors) in a systematic way is how you locate the actual problem. We don't know if the Connector is or isn't the problem.

Post by **Pakitullanc** » Fri Sep 24, 2021 5:21 am

Ok, cool. This electrical mechanic said to leave a couple of days and he is going to work from front to back and figure out the issue. So I will drop it off to him then. I thought it was a calibration issue.

Post by **Pakitullanc** » Fri Sep 24, 2021 12:43 pm

M37SJoe wrote: ↑
Fri Sep 24, 2021 4:09 am
If you did not replace both side of the connector, you cannot be 100% sure it is not the problem. Driving the car at 20 mph means you are moving and possibly subjecting the connector to vibration or a bump in the road that impacts the connector. A parts technician at a Texas Infiniti Dealership told me that the connector is known to be problematic. Guessing what a problem is not the way to fix the car. Testing and eliminating each component (including wiring and connectors) in a systematic way is how you locate the actual problem. We don't know if the Connector is or isn't the problem.

I have $37.99 in so far. That why I am just guessing it vs actually trying to figure out the problem. So you think trailering wire or finding the actual cable may fix the issue. And no calibration is required?

Post by **Pakitullanc** » Fri Sep 24, 2021 12:50 pm

Check this out. What do you think. Worth buying?
Also like the GTR do they make a HICAS delete for the M.

Post by **M37SJoe** » Fri Sep 24, 2021 5:45 pm

I have not seen a "Delete" for the M.
What parts are you wanting to harvest? Motor? Sensor?

Post by **Pakitullanc** » Fri Sep 24, 2021 6:00 pm

M37SJoe wrote: ↑
Fri Sep 24, 2021 5:45 pm
I have not seen a "Delete" for the M.
What parts are you wanting to harvest? Motor? Sensor?

The motor, actuator. It's $200. What do you think?
Also the yellow highlight cable I bought, that guy has the other cable too, that connects to the actuator. Jr is going to send a pic tomorrow. I will forward it to you. Probably be like $30. That is what the other one was.

Post by **M37SJoe** » Sat Sep 25, 2021 5:10 am

$200.00 is about right for the M35 RAS assembly. I think I paid $179.00 in 2019 for mine.

Post by **Pakitullanc** » Fri Oct 01, 2021 1:18 pm

Dsmiles I have a question

Still here dealing with the lights. So my question is should I attach the multimeter two pins to the points circled in yellow (I assume two at a time) and turn to see the values on the multimeter to get to 1. I am confused about the multimeter use

Post by **M37SJoe** » Fri Oct 01, 2021 4:32 pm

I think you need to ask a friend who is electrically inclined to assist. What you have circled are not the electrical connections. You should be touching the multimeter leads to the wires on the cable (which I do not see in the picture). You also have to set your Multimeter to Ohms for a Resistance (no applied voltage) test and Volts (DC and low range) for a powered Voltage test. Please accept my apologies if I have offended you. I am trying to help...

Post by **Pakitullanc** » Sat Oct 09, 2021 8:56 am

The cable in the picture, do I need to take the black cover off the wires to expose the wires under and the attach the prongs of the multimeter to get the reading?

Post by **M37SJoe** » Sat Oct 09, 2021 9:28 am

You could but it is better and easier to touch the multimeter leads to the pins in the connector. If they are male pins, it is easy. If they are female pins, you might need to insert a paper clip section or a small solid wire to get continuity. See the yellow highlighted part of your picture. Do you know how to use your Multimeter?

: Screenshot 2021-10-09 122749.png (87.95 KiB) Viewed 1327 times

Post by **Pakitullanc** » Sat Oct 09, 2021 9:46 am

No sir, lol. But I am learning on the job

. I could not find any good YouTube videos that applies more to my problem.

Post by **M37SJoe** » Sat Oct 09, 2021 12:13 pm

Hopefully the Multimeter came with a manual. If not, the Red Lead plugs into the Volts Jack, the Black Lead plugs into the Common Jack, and you set the Meter to read DC Volts or Ohms depending on which way you are testing the Sensor. Volts means you are powering the Sensor with +5vdc. Ohm means you are not powering the Sensor but reading the Resistance of the Sensor. Either way, you will turn the Sensor to see if you get a change in the Volts reading or the Ohms reading.

Post by **Pakitullanc** » Sat Oct 09, 2021 12:40 pm

M37SJoe wrote: ↑
Sat Oct 09, 2021 12:13 pm
Hopefully the Multimeter came with a manual. If not, the Red Lead plugs into the Volts Jack, the Black Lead plugs into the Common Jack, and you set the Meter to read DC Volts or Ohms depending on which way you are testing the Sensor. Volts means you are powering the Sensor with +5vdc. Ohm means you are not powering the Sensor but reading the Resistance of the Sensor. Either way, you will turn the Sensor to see if you get a change in the Volts reading or the Ohms reading.

Gotcha, does the ignition need to be on for power to be going the plug or engine needs to be running.

Post by **Pakitullanc** » Sat Oct 09, 2021 1:27 pm

What Ohms should I set it at

Post by **M37SJoe** » Sat Oct 09, 2021 2:13 pm

Whatever setting is close to the chart plus a little extra.

Post by **Pakitullanc** » Sat Oct 09, 2021 2:15 pm

I am working on it as we speak.
1-4 is 1.4
1-3 is .9
1-2 is .5

4WAS Failure Statistics?

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