400 whp Stock block Redtop - GT2871r .64 power!

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Kalypso
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Re: (datsun2401972)

Postby Kalypso » Tue Jun 24, 2008 5:42 am

datsun2401972 wrote:Hey cody, any experience with the treadstone mani's? I've heard they're revhard knockoffs, but I respect most turbonetics dealers....

I'm curious if they have more flow capacity than the stock mani...
useful words from the man himself

- the stock cast iron manifold (honed/swained) is the best bang for the buck - best heat absorbtion- it will never crack

dont waste money on the name.


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kentuckyslider
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Re: (Kalypso123)

Postby kentuckyslider » Tue Jun 24, 2008 6:46 am

the stock cast iron manifold (honed/swained) is the best bang for the buck

Possibly ture for bottom mount setups, but the treadstone mani is a T3 top mount. It is $300 and must be the best value. I just don't know if it will flow well enough for a Gt30 or Gt35 snail??? Equal length top mount mani's are $900+

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Postby codyace » Sun Jul 06, 2008 10:05 pm

The Extruded/Swain setup is the best botttom mount turbo setup IMO you can use (that is, for 2871 and smaller steups)

If I was running a topmount with a 30r varient, i would certainly be using a Full Race/Peakboost/Similar manifold...but would also be getting more braces added, and it swained coated before install.

Update on my car: I think I destoyed a diff bearing the other night before leaving for Hawaii. Took it out of the car tonight, drained fluid, and saw happy bearing parts. Yay me.

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Re: (codyace)

Postby Kalypso » Mon Jul 07, 2008 3:24 am

you'll have it fixed before long.

question = If i want to burn e85 or any alternate fuel on an SR i would need a programmable ECU that I can use to turn down or turn up the amount of fuel coming from the injectors.

hypethetically is this possible? to cut the amount of fuel to 33%, or even double it, and tune the new fuel, spark and boost all together?

what ecu can do this

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kentuckyslider
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Re: (Kalypso123)

Postby kentuckyslider » Mon Jul 07, 2008 7:16 pm

Just swapped my old J30 3.91 diff for a Skyline HRC 4.36 diff. MAN I LOVE IT. It hits full boost about 10mph earilier in each gear and the LSD is much more responsive than the worn USDM unit. It also mounts much better using the stock snout bolts vs. the J30 snout which requires the ES bushings. By the way, it didn't cost me a dime. I bought the diff from J-Hot for $200 shipped, and sold my 3.91 for $200 and already had the 5 bolt axels. All I spent was $22 for 2 quarts of royal purple.

Cody, I have a megan mani, If I wanted to get my stock mani extrude honed and swained coated could you help me out? Trying to keep the heat down for autocross.

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Re: (Kalypso123)

Postby codyace » Mon Jul 07, 2008 8:17 pm

Kalypso123 wrote:you'll have it fixed before long.
Bearings will be in tomorrow. I shou ld have it back up and running tomorrow night hehe. I can say that I'm getting super fast at removing diffs in 240's...not that it's a hard job, but having done 15 or so at this point, what a cake walk they've become...I really like the JDM ones with the flat caps on the axle ends....beats the **** outa those stupid cone things on the USDM units.
Kalypso123 wrote:question = If i want to burn e85 or any alternate fuel on an SR i would need a programmable ECU that I can use to turn down or turn up the amount of fuel coming from the injectors.
Any of the ECU's would be able to run it IMO, however you would nee dto spend time on a Dyno with an FPR to make it work hafl decent. It would be neat to send an email to JWT or Enthalpy to see if they are working on anything E85 based. Would be great to run, as it's cheap detonation prevention ya know?
kentuckyslider wrote:Just swapped my old J30 3.91 diff for a Skyline HRC 4.36 diff. MAN I LOVE IT. It hits full boost about 10mph earilier in each gear and the LSD is much more responsive than the worn USDM unit.
I've installed 3 of those in s13's now (Matt was my second) and everyone loves them. It's one of the best mods IMO for our cars, as it helps compliment are crappy transmission ratios better. I run the 4.60 rear (from an xterra) in mine, and with the 18's it puts the effective ratio in the 4.4x range...it really kicks ***.
kentuckyslider wrote:Cody, I have a megan mani, If I wanted to get my stock mani extrude honed and swained coated could you help me out? Trying to keep the heat down for autocross.
It's too easy

http://www.extrudehone.com for the Extrudehttp://www.swaintech.com for the Swain. Do the extrude process first though.

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Re: (codyace)

Postby idahotuner » Sat Jul 12, 2008 2:03 pm

hey cody i made 416 hp at 20 psi. with it spiking to 24psi right near the end.

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Re: (codyace)

Postby Z28ricer » Sat Jul 12, 2008 6:37 pm

codyace wrote:
Being that you can run a proper manifold with the 3071, I like the .86 housing. That, in combination with C1 cams would be incredible, have awesome midrange, and easily make 450whp+
Do you think the 3071R-WG would be alright with the .86 housing as far as boost creep goes, the only examples i've found are with the .64 housing, and everyone on FA was having creep issues with it, i'd kinda like to go with it for the extra power up top, as i'll be mainly doing drag racing with my car.

Im looking to do:

Forged pistons 9:1HKS step 3 264'sTomei lifters- Probably GT2871 .86, 52 trim, with the 28R style comp housing to look stock.

About the only way i'll go with a non stock look is if im going to gain a good by going with something like the 3071R-WG

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idahotuner
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Re: (Z28ricer)

Postby idahotuner » Sat Jul 12, 2008 7:11 pm

dude cody i think i beat you.

maybe not for response cause i dodnt hit full boost tell. 4100rpms

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kentuckyslider
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Re: (idahotuner)

Postby kentuckyslider » Wed Jul 16, 2008 7:44 pm

If i'm reading your A/F chart right you were running very lean for the streets. I made 345whp and never got out of the high 11's in A/F ratio. That is what I was told was safe?

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idahotuner
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Re: (kentuckyslider)

Postby idahotuner » Wed Jul 16, 2008 8:59 pm

yes i am running lean at idle and partial throttle. but once under boost it is good i am getting a reflash to take car of it

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Re: (codyace)

Postby mattsil80wis » Thu Jul 17, 2008 4:03 am

codyace wrote:
I've installed 3 of those in s13's now (Matt was my second) and everyone loves them. It's one of the best mods IMO for our cars, as it helps compliment are crappy transmission ratios better. I run the 4.60 rear (from an xterra) in mine, and with the 18's it puts the effective ratio in the 4.4x range...it really kicks ***.
who else did you install one in after me?

the best part about gears is no one can tell you have them

so they see my car a stock sr swap and they thing oh 14 sec car

haha well at 14lbs of boost and 4.40 gears it suprises ppl and they end up seeing my taillights a lot hahah

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hinds90
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Re: (mattsil80wis)

Postby hinds90 » Thu Jul 17, 2008 3:52 pm

I have been looking at every swap under the sun and decided to wonder into the sr20det forum just to look at some build threads and stumble across a 400whp sr20. I have to say thats pretty incredible. Great job!

Now this really has me thinking about ditching other swap canidates simply because this swap is made for the car.

I just have one question for you guys how does torque feel. With this turbo of course.

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Re: (hinds90)

Postby Kalypso » Thu Jul 17, 2008 4:47 pm

someone please explain differential gear ratios.

I have the j30 vlsd off of a 96. can the ratio be adjusted? or is it set? the lower the better?

this is all new to me.

codyace
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Re: (idahotuner)

Postby codyace » Thu Jul 17, 2008 8:28 pm

idahotuner wrote:dude cody i think i beat you.

maybe not for response cause i dodnt hit full boost tell. 4100rpms
*Almost*

Gotta take that 1.08 correction factor outa there...but very close, 385 hp is no joke.

With that said, your car is running VERY lean (above 12.5)....I'd certainly check that before cranking the boost. You'll want that in the 11's IMO under WOT/high boost.

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Re: (mattsil80wis)

Postby codyace » Thu Jul 17, 2008 8:37 pm

mattsil80wis wrote:who else did you install one in after me?
Other 4.40's
mattsil80wis wrote:
so they see my car a stock sr swap and they thing oh 14 sec car

haha well at 14lbs of boost and 4.40 gears it suprises ppl and they end up seeing my taillights a lot hahah
Tricky Ace style right there
Kalypso123 wrote:someone please explain differential gear ratios.

I have the j30 vlsd off of a 96. can the ratio be adjusted? or is it set? the lower the better?

this is all new to me.
The taller (numerically lower) a gear is, the less 'oomph' you'll have, but the more top end 'pull' you'll have

The shorter (numerically higher) a gear is, the more 'oomph' you'll have, but at the expense of some top end.

So 4.40's with a 2871r work great, as it's an obscene amount of midrange. 3.90's however dont' work as well, as they are setup for top end power (such as that of a 35r)

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Re: (codyace)

Postby idahotuner » Thu Jul 17, 2008 9:33 pm

what is this correction factor your talking about. a dyno sheet isa dyno sheet.

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Postby codyace » Fri Jul 18, 2008 2:50 am

There is a 1.08 correction factor in there for some reason. Probably some sort of wackyness from the weather station.

And a dyno sheet is NOT a dyno sheet. You can make/inflate/lessen them to read anything. Correction factor can also inflate/deflate numbers. If I use JIC Correction, my car makes nearly 430 whp and 350 ft lbs. I used the lowest correction for mine.

There was a great discussion about this maybe a year ago on fresh alloy when Steve Shadows posted a dyno, only to find out the parameters were entered wrong, giving him nearly 80 more whp than it shoulda had.

Either way, awesome run....just get those AFR's in line before boosting to hard during the heat :D

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Re: (codyace)

Postby Kalypso » Fri Jul 18, 2008 5:25 am

this correction factor sounds like a conspiracy... to snub you ben

Resist!


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Re: (Kalypso123)

Postby idahotuner » Fri Jul 18, 2008 7:54 am

lol i think the dyno is correct becuase it wasnta solid 20 psi run and it was spiking up to 24 psi. and those numbers seem right for 20/24psi

and the guys doing the dyno have being doing this for 14 years and fricken new **** load more then me. lol but i know what your saying abotua dyno not being set up right

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Re: (Kalypso123)

Postby codyace » Fri Jul 18, 2008 1:47 pm

Kalypso123 wrote:this correction factor sounds like a conspiracy... to snub you ben

Resist!
Not snubbing anything. I could easily throw up my 20 psi run with the highest correction factor and regain that meaningless HP crown hehe.

For example, if I do all of the correction factors:'uncorrected' - 419 whp / 339.53trq.'sae' = 409 / 330'din' = 421 / 341'eec' = 409 / 330'standard' = 420 / 340

See how easily inflated they can be, just by simply selecting a different c/f? Crazy stuff huh? I simple claim 400/330....but if i were to use standard, i could claim 421/341

I do wish you could find a dyno jet to goto for a better comparison, or something...I loath split hp/torque axis numbers. Plus I'm a closet run file collector :D

Another interesting note (to me) is how late your car comes into power.What gear did you do the pull in?

If you did it in you're 1:1 gear (4th), I would say are you sure that you've got the timing set correctly?

I'm not doubting your dyno Ben...in fact I love to see others making some good power....just saying that the correction factor has alot to do with your numbers being has high as they are. 317/1.08= 386ish, which seems right with the cams.

(No need to turn this into a pissing match fellas, just stating some obvious things that stick out to me)

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Re: (codyace)

Postby mistamacadamian » Fri Jul 18, 2008 3:48 pm

the xterra diff bolts up or what kinda fabrication does it need?

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Re: (mistamacadamian)

Postby idahotuner » Fri Jul 18, 2008 10:38 pm

the 1st run we did in 4th the rest we did in 3rd. so the bigger numbers are in third gear. i figured out i got some major boost leakage which would be the cause for that. and my cold pipe has a hole woren into it. so i need ot jb wled that and get some rubber hose to go around the hole in the battery tray

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Re: (idahotuner)

Postby Kalypso » Sat Jul 19, 2008 1:43 pm

I was joking, we're all civilized in this thread...or atleast I am

how come no one talks about the

GT2876R .64


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Re: (idahotuner)

Postby Slideways^Jordan » Mon Jul 21, 2008 9:05 pm

idahotuner wrote:the 1st run we did in 4th the rest we did in 3rd. so the bigger numbers are in third gear. i figured out i got some major boost leakage which would be the cause for that. and my cold pipe has a hole woren into it. so i need ot jb wled that and get some rubber hose to go around the hole in the battery tray
I suggest that you use some heater hose to run along the side of the holes for your cold pipe and hot pipe so the pipe never comes in contact with metal on metal, it can result in cuting the pipes over time. Thats how i have mine just get a couple of feet what ever size hose you like and route it on the sides of the hole wher it was cut to run the intercooler piping.

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Re: (mistamacadamian)

Postby codyace » Tue Jul 22, 2008 3:21 am

mistamacadamian wrote:the xterra diff bolts up or what kinda fabrication does it need?
You just need the ring and pinion from that diff.

So get one, take the ring and pinions (and shims) from the Xterra diff. Take apart your 240 diff, and install them correctly. Your best bet would be to get new pinion bearings in the process, and to take it to a rear end shop to set it up for you...worth the insurance
Kalypso123 wrote:I was joking, we're all civilized in this thread...or atleast I am

how come no one talks about the

GT2876R .64
Because the 2871 out powers it on the t2 manifolds. Anything larger than a 2871, you goto the 30r family...and run a proper topmount manifold.
idahotuner wrote:the 1st run we did in 4th the rest we did in 3rd. so the bigger numbers are in third gear. i figured out i got some major boost leakage which would be the cause for that. and my cold pipe has a hole woren into it. so i need ot jb wled that and get some rubber hose to go around the hole in the battery tray
Turbo cars should all be run in 4th gear for a proper measurment, and to nuetralize any differences in drivetrains/gearing...however shorter gears (like 4.40/4.60) will typically result in the loss of some (10-15ish) peak whp. I redynoed my car with the gears at 19 psi and made 395 on the lowest correction factor...which thrilled me, as it was at 1 psi less boost, 104 octane (as I was planning on cranking it to 25 psi, but the internal gate didn't let me) and with the gears...which tells me that the car is just is slightly more powerful than before (as one could assume with the old geras, 93 octane, and a point of gas, that it would have made another 10-20 whp.

As far as that cold pipe in the tray, that's a common spot for failure....as Slideways said, the heater hose trick works well, as does getting a simple rubber plumbing connector from home depot, slicing it in half lengthwise, sliping it around the rub area, and then clamping it (works like a rubber shield).

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Re: (codyace)

Postby Kalypso » Tue Jul 22, 2008 10:56 pm

codyace wrote:
Because the 2871 out powers it on the t2 manifolds. Anything larger than a 2871, you goto the 30r family...and run a proper topmount manifold.
cool

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Re: (idahotuner)

Postby hugogos22 » Wed Jul 23, 2008 7:54 pm

Hey codyace what have you done to the oiling system larger pan oil cooler etc ? And what do you think of the stock oiling system at this horsepower level ? Is it sufficient.

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Re: (hugogos22)

Postby codyace » Thu Jul 24, 2008 7:44 pm

hugogos22 wrote:Hey codyace what have you done to the oiling system larger pan oil cooler etc ? And what do you think of the stock oiling system at this horsepower level ? Is it sufficient.
Greddy Pan and my own Oil Filter relocation setup using a Ford FL1A filter for even more capacity.

I can't speak dynamically on the oil pump, but I have no issue keeping pressure nice through an entire track day, water temps never get above 210 (it was like 95 degrees and 100 percent humidity this past weekend)....now I don't have an oil temp gauge, but 8/10 times if the water is hot, so is the oil, and vice versa.

Over the winter I may introduce a cooler 'just because', but that's if (and only if) I end up getting a gauge on the car to really see. I have the ports for it on the pan, just to lazy to do it hehe.

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Re: (codyace)

Postby datsun2401972 » Thu Jul 24, 2008 7:52 pm

My datsun 240z had the 2.8 liter six with a holley carb, header etc....it took FOREVER for the oil to warm up. Obviously it was normally asp so it didn't have the thermal load a turbo would put on it. But you might get surprised when you put your oil temp gauge on.

Puttin an oil temp gauge in will be one of the first things I do after swapping my sr though. Very important to have your oil at operating temperature before "bangin' gears"...


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