400 whp Stock block Redtop - GT2871r .64 power!

For the RWD SR20DET cars! Sponsored by Wiring Specialties.
mattsil80wis
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codyace wrote:4.90 would be super nutty. Only thing that it would kill is the drag race ability (some very careful tire slection would need to take place)...as I think it would put us in 5th through the traps (not good).

I'm not saying all tubular ones will crack, but enough do (and I'm lazy) to make me not want one. Plus I have that tiny little .64 housing too, so anything that can retain heat helps spool, and increases my smile :D

...Somedays I wish I had an s13 to drop 300ish lbs over my s14 hehe.
you do have a s13 with a silvia conversion....you forgot about the junkyard dog already??


datsun2401972
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codyace wrote:Completly bolt in affair, available from Jim Wolf Technology (www.jimwolftechnology.com)
Damn, too bad you have to spend $500 just to get an organic disk with a higher sprung pressure plate. I wonder if a local shop could make a pressure plate with the same clamping force. I know the disk could be made for well under $100.

I might be able to sell myself on the $500 lightweight z33 flywheel. But a clutch kit that just has stiffer pressure plate fingers? Stock replacement can't be much over $200, if that...I guess that's why I've never bought anything from jimwolf...yet...

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idahotuner
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I got my ACT clutch w/ pressure plate and light weight ACT flywheel for $642 dollars roughly from phase 2 that is the unsprung 6 puck. i wish i had gone a few more dollars and got sprung but i didnt know waht i was doing then.

datsun2401972
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Cody, do you know what your injector duty cycle is with the 60lbers?

codyace
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datsun2401972 wrote:Damn, too bad you have to spend $500 just to get an organic disk with a higher sprung pressure plate. I wonder if a local shop could make a pressure plate with the same clamping force. I know the disk could be made for well under $100.
Organic Disc?

Hehe, organic style dic maybe. It's rated for 500 whp, clutch is light as a feather. I forget what Clark said the clutch is made out of, some wacky stuff.
datsun2401972 wrote:Cody, do you know what your injector duty cycle is with the 60lbers?
Via Consult, at 20 psi, roughly 90%

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idahotuner
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probably carbon kevlar for that clutch

datsun2401972
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I love this thread....

DrifterProdigy85
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codyace wrote:4.90 would be super nutty. Only thing that it would kill is the drag race ability (some very careful tire slection would need to take place)...as I think it would put us in 5th through the traps (not good).
Just some quick calculations.4.90, 24" Tires, 4th @ 7500rpm - 109mph4.90, 26" Tires, 4th @ 7500rpm - 118mph4.90, 26" Tires, 4th @ 9000rpm - 142mph4.90, 28" Tires, 4th @ 7500rpm - 127mph4.90, 28" Tires, 4th @ 9000rpm - 153mph

Running 28" Tires on a 4.90 R&P makes gearing just about stock again.

Kalypso
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datsun2401972 wrote:I love this thread....
me to

codyace
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DrifterProdigy85 wrote:
Just some quick calculations.4.90, 24" Tires, 4th @ 7500rpm - 109mph4.90, 26" Tires, 4th @ 7500rpm - 118mph4.90, 26" Tires, 4th @ 9000rpm - 142mph4.90, 28" Tires, 4th @ 7500rpm - 127mph4.90, 28" Tires, 4th @ 9000rpm - 153mph

Running 28" Tires on a 4.90 R&P makes gearing just about stock again.
28" tall tire should/would require full slicks though no? Smallest I could find were 28x9's. Wouldnt' that require some crafty wheel offset too?


DrifterProdigy85
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Sizes That Are 28"275/60-15275/50-17275/45-18255/50-18

You gotta go fairly wide for some 28" tires. Theres alot more choices in the 275+ wide range. Its just hard fitting tires that wide under a 240. My 275's stick out pretty far as it is. If i had a 4.90, it would be drag purpose and Slicks or MT ET Streets on all the time. Id probably run 28x11.5" if i did it.

codyace
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DrifterProdigy85 wrote:Sizes That Are 28"275/60-15275/50-17275/45-18255/50-18

You gotta go fairly wide for some 28" tires. Theres alot more choices in the 275+ wide range. Its just hard fitting tires that wide under a 240. My 275's stick out pretty far as it is. If i had a 4.90, it would be drag purpose and Slicks or MT ET Streets on all the time. Id probably run 28x11.5" if i did it.
275's! lol

Yea, Not on my car lol....I know I sound picky, but I need a nice smaller tire that won't require me to **** with my suspension to much hehe.... with that said, I've often thought about swapping my stock struts back in for drag nights :D


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idahotuner
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codyace wrote:
275's! lol

Yea, Not on my car lol....I know I sound picky, but I need a nice smaller tire that won't require me to **** with my suspension to much hehe.... with that said, I've often thought about swapping my stock struts back in for drag nights :D
275s do suck. i got my coilovers maxed out as far as they will go up. i am seriously considering flares for the rear. then cutting out the fender. but i don't know. i like the hot rod look.

my camber is weird in the back with it lifted so high.

mattsil80wis
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cody i got more parts for the junkyard dog that need powder coating...ill drop them off when i come up one weekend

codyace
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idahotuner wrote: 275s do suck. i got my coilovers maxed out as far as they will go up. i am seriously considering flares for the rear. then cutting out the fender. but i don't know. i like the hot rod look.

my camber is weird in the back with it lifted so high.
Hehe, I'm just to lazy to switch from roadcourse mode, to drag race mode hehe.

275's are def no joke. Member 'Gracer' on F/A and Zil via fit 300 series with a severe pull lol.

Matt: Sound sgood mang. I'll take them all at once then for ya.

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kentuckyslider
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Prodigy, I am running a J30 rear end. I think it is 3.80??IDK it was in the car when I got it. I am running 235/60/15 MT ET street radials which is about a 26x8.5. I ran the 11.7@117 with these tires and I am not getting all I can out of my gear. I am adding cams, 70mm throttle body, and top speed intake next month and will be getting wrinkle wall tires after that. I can't decide between the 24.5x8.5x15 M&H racemasters and the 26x8.5? With this gearing logic tells me the 24.5 but I just don't think I will get the hook out of the shorter tire. I run 1.7 to 1.8 60 ft. consistantly with the 235/60 ET radials but I see cars runing 1.5 60 fts with wrinkle wall tires. I should be able to make a sub 11.5's run with the new tires and power upgrade.

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kentuckyslider
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Codyace, I can't afford the JWT cams so what do you recommend. I should be all over your #'s with some minor tweaking. Dumb question..... I just joined yesturday and don't know how to add pictures to my post/signature??? Please help the handycap!! What R&P gear are you running and tire size??

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idahotuner
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kentuckyslider wrote:Codyace, I can't afford the JWT cams so what do you recommend. I should be all over your #'s with some minor tweaking. Dumb question..... I just joined yesturday and don't know how to add pictures to my post/signature??? Please help the handycap!! What R&P gear are you running and tire size??
i went the Brian Crower route. using 264 cams paired with the gt2871r. 64 turbo.

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kentuckyslider
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Damn, check out my valve cover... It was like that when I got the car. I am powder coating to match the lip on my wheels when I put the cams in.

datsun2401972
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Kentucky, take that thermal sleeve off your i/c hotpipe, you will shed more heat without it. Which gives you denser/cooler intake charge, which means more power yay!

unless your having major heat soak problems or something...

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kentuckyslider
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old pic from when I first bought the car. It has been off for a while. Thanx The Kawasaki green isn't me either.

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idahotuner
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kentuckyslider wrote:old pic from when I first bought the car. It has been off for a while. Thanx The Kawasaki green isn't me either.
hehe good i hope you changed the color of the valve cover.......

cause i wantot be the only one with a green valve cover hehe

check it out in my build thread in my sig.

codyace
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The JWT cams may be expensive, but worth every penny.

I hope someone makes more power than I have! Then again, I'm also tuned for 91 octane, and conservative at that. Im' to scardy cat to tune on the edge with my car :D

I'm also adding external gate, the crank scraper, and water injection....so we'll see what the old clunker makes hehe.

As far as tires, and gears: http://www.f-body.org/gears is what I love to use to see where I'll be with speed and RPM.

I've never used drag tires at the track, and have only gone once. I ws to lazy to adjust my suspension, and just left my regular tires on.

4.60's with 245/40/18's on the back (Z33 Track Wheels). At 18 psi I went 12.6 @ 118 (so at approx 375 whp). I'm horrible with spinning all over tho, so I'm sure slicks will get me in the 11's with ease. Maybe then I'll crank it back up to 20 psi

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kentuckyslider
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You will be running LOW 11's with some 26x8.5 wrinkle walls. Am I making more tq than you just because of the long factory intake runners or what. I am actually making more tq than hp. I priced some supertech springs and retainers at $450. Are you running stock retainers? I already have $460 in the HKS 264's. The supertech springs will put me at over $900 in cams and springs. I think I will go all HKS for a total of $685 in cams and springs. CAMS & SPRINGS PRICE BREAKDOWN..............1. BC cams and springs $350 for both on JGY2. HKS cams and springs $685 on mySR20.com3. JWT cams and springs $900 on JGY4. You could save another $55 by going with Greddy or comp springs, but I decided it was worth the $55 for matching components.The HKS cams were only $125 cheaper than the JWT but the springs were also over $100 less. I have heard mixed reviews on BC products but I had to go for the middle of the road. You ALMOST always get what you pay for! I find it hard to believe that JWT makes that much better product than HKS?

mattsil80wis
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kentuckyslider wrote:You will be running LOW 11's with some 26x8.5 wrinkle walls. Am I making more tq than you just because of the long factory intake runners or what. I am actually making more tq than hp. I priced some supertech springs and retainers at $450. Are you running stock retainers? I already have $460 in the HKS 264's. The supertech springs will put me at over $900 in cams and springs. I think I will go all HKS for a total of $685 in cams and springs. CAMS & SPRINGS PRICE BREAKDOWN..............1. BC cams and springs $350 for both on JGY2. HKS cams and springs $685 on mySR20.com3. JWT cams and springs $900 on JGY4. You could save another $55 by going with Greddy or comp springs, but I decided it was worth the $55 for matching components.The HKS cams were only $125 cheaper than the JWT but the springs were also over $100 less. I have heard mixed reviews on BC products but I had to go for the middle of the road. You ALMOST always get what you pay for! I find it hard to believe that JWT makes that much better product than HKS?
with JWT S3 cams you dont need springs so go spend 300 bucks on cams and bam your set...you can run stock springs, valves, all that good stuff with JWT S series cams....Cody that is pretty accurate right (i think you need to upgrade everything with the C series JWT cams)

codyace
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kentuckyslider wrote:You will be running LOW 11's with some 26x8.5 wrinkle walls.
See I was under the impression that wrinkle walls broke stuff, and that ET Streets were nice on drivelines?

And my car should run there, but who knows if I could drive it to those times lol. Being more into HPDE stuff, banging gears isn't of my nature. Nice steady and firm into gear haha. I'd love to just dip in the 11's tho.
kentuckyslider wrote:CAMS & SPRINGS PRICE BREAKDOWN..............1. BC cams and springs $350 for both on JGY2. HKS cams and springs $685 on mySR20.com3. JWT cams and springs $900 on JGY
The best part about JWT cams is that they dont' require a spring or retainer change :D Plop them in and go. Another cool thing about them: RWD is the same as FWD...so if you go on sr20forum.com, look in the used section (both NA and Turbo) you can always find great deals on them used.

My car just has JWT S3's and stock everything, with a 7850 (JWT redline) rpm limit. If I was going to change anything, I'd go with JWT C1 cams (essentially S3's on crack), and use Supertech springs and new stock retainers. I'm not a fan of fancy retainers as they are known to gall and fall.
kentuckyslider wrote:I find it hard to believe that JWT makes that much better product than HKS?
When it comes to Cams, JWT is the best you can use. Nismo even uses them! By no means is HKS bad, but when it comes to cams, JWT is renouned for their expertise.

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kentuckyslider
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Cody, if you had my tires(235/60/15 MT ET drag radials) with your much lower R&P and 70 more whp. You would run 11.3ish at 122-123 with a good 60ft time. I ran a 1.75 60ft when I hit the 11.7@117. Sorry a couple of more questions........1. I checked out your tire calculator but I don't know the ratios of the sr tranny?2. My car had a 94 j30 vlsd in it when I got it. I asked around and heard that it had a 3.86 R&P. If I wanted to go with a lower gear what would be the easiest way and how do I know for sure what R&P I have without pulling the cover and counting the teeth?

I think I am going to go with 24.5x8.5x15 M&H racemaster wrinkle walls to lower my gear and I think the shorter/much lighter tire will actually be easier on my drivetrain. The big difference in drag radials and wrinkle wall tires is the weight. My radials mounted on 15" stock wheels weigh 42lbs. and a friend of mine has the 24.5 M&H mounted on the same wheels and his weigh 28lbs.

codyace
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kentuckyslider wrote:Cody, if you had my tires(235/60/15 MT ET drag radials) with your much lower R&P and 70 more whp. You would run 11.3ish at 122-123 with a good 60ft time. I ran a 1.75 60ft when I hit the 11.7@117. Sorry a couple of more questions........
Haha, maybe if you're on vacation I'll let you bang the gaers for me hehe! At least that's good to know!
kentuckyslider wrote:1. I checked out your tire calculator but I don't know the ratios of the sr tranny?
3.3211.9021.3081.759
kentuckyslider wrote:2. My car had a 94 j30 vlsd in it when I got it. I asked around and heard that it had a 3.86 R&P. If I wanted to go with a lower gear what would be the easiest way and how do I know for sure what R&P I have without pulling the cover and counting the teeth?
The only true way is to pull that back cover and count those teeth. There may be a way to ID them from the outside, but I certainly have no clue.

The easiest way to find the gears: JDM 180sx diffs have the 4.38 ratio IIRC, and the Front pumpkin from a 2001 Xterra SE has the 4.60 (also has 4.90s too).
kentuckyslider wrote:I think I am going to go with 24.5x8.5x15 M&H racemaster wrinkle walls to lower my gear and I think the shorter/much lighter tire will actually be easier on my drivetrain. The big difference in drag radials and wrinkle wall tires is the weight. My radials mounted on 15" stock wheels weigh 42lbs. and a friend of mine has the 24.5 M&H mounted on the same wheels and his weigh 28lbs.
Be sure to let us know how it works out. Again, I always thought real slicks where super hard on everything as they just gripped....but then again I have zero drag race knowledge.

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kentuckyslider
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With the 3.86 R&P that I have now and 26" tires I am going through the traps at 5850rpm @117 in 4th gear. I am just going to go down to the 24.5" tires and see how it goes. I race the 1/8th alot and with the 3.86 R&P I will still be able to finish the 1/8th in 3rd gear at about 6700rpm with the 24.5" tires. With 100 more whp I will be trapping at almost 100mph in the 1/8th with a low 7 time. I will post a dyno sheet and time slip in the next month to let you know how it turned out. Thanx for your help.

DrifterProdigy85
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ive always been worried about running full slicks on my car as well. i could probably get away with full slicks but its gonna be alot of slipping of the clutch coming out of the hole. trying to do an actual 2 step boosted drop would just blow the SR trans to pieces i would think.


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