outtolearn88 wrote: ↑

Fri Sep 22, 2017 8:29 am

I'm sorry, I guess I don't understand your question....
Can you please clarify what you mean ? What's it doing ? How did you connect de controller ?

Oops. What I meant to say was that the interior lighting kit uses a controller module similar to the one for the exterior ground lighting kit...

https://www.nissan-techinfo.com/asistgc ... C1UG10.PDF


My setup is the LED strip attached to the accessory connector.


I've tried attaching the LED strip to the black ( ground) and attached the positive wire to the orange,yellow on the connector with no luck as the LED's stay lit even after I close the door.

It seems that the control module in the nissan oem kits controls how and when the LEDs come on and that you can not just hook up an LED strip by itself.

Ok, I understand what you're doing. But what do you want as as final results. When do you want your LED's to be on ? Because as you can see in instructions, each wire dose different options and you can only connect to one wire as positive.

What I would like is the LEDs to come on when I unlock the doors via key fob and the room lights come on.
Here's a few of the combinations I tried with the same results of the LEDs staying on all the time:

Black - ground/ Orange- accessory
Black- ground/ Yellow- Room light
Black - ground/Grey- Thru signal 1

I did not try the Dark green/Lt green which are the front door switch left and right hand.

I went with the #11 ACC. (Orange) so when accessories are on, the lights go on.
I think it's the best way to go. Just saying it's what I like.

outtolearn88 wrote: ↑

Mon Sep 25, 2017 9:30 am

I went with the #11 ACC. (Orange) so when accessories are on, the lights go on.
I think it's the best way to go. Just saying it's what I like.

Hmm I'll have to double check but I did try the #11 orange and it stayed on all the time. :P

I tried the harness a d couldn't get it to work with the doors and map lights.
that is is why I tapped into where I did behind the map lights.

Try locking the vehicle, just like your leaving. The lights will go off. There's a delay with them going off if you don't lock the vehicle but they will go off after the delay time has past.
Try it out, because for me it works perfectly.

Get back to us, Let me know how it goes.

So I tired what you said. Locked the vehicle, interior lights went off as well as the radio and waited .....still no luck.

Just a FYI, the only wire that is designed to drive a load is the red wire.

All those other wires were intended to trigger the control box "aka relay" which would then allow power from the red wire to go to the accessory.

That harness is not the same as tapping into a actual ignition/acc wire. It is feed by the BCM, and that is likely why Nissan warns about what to connect to it.

So then the question is, if you blow the output circuit for the BCM by drawing too much power does it lose the ability to turn off the wire.. very possibly why yours are always on at this point.

I think you are absolutely right ! I think you pulled to much and your contact from the BACK is stuck closed. Meaning the power always ON.

I think you will need to have it checked out by a NISSAN tech.

Good Luck and keep us all updated.
Thanks

Hi everyone,
I know this is an old thread but I'm hoping it will still get some traction. New 2019 Nissan Rogue owner and I'm trying to wire in some interior LEDs to be on when the doors open or interior lights are on. I've already figured out that I have to tap into the RM Lamps (yellow) on the accessory harness. What I can't figure out is what is the BATSVR? Is this the same as the BAT except it eventually shuts off? I'm going to be wiring the RM lights tap to a relay to to power on the lights, I just can't figure out if I should tap into the red BAT line or the pink BATSVR line for the coil side of the relay to provide the actual power. When I look at the instruction for the Nissan kit, it calls out wiring to the BATSVR, IGN and RM LAMPS (and the ground). I figure that the BATSVR must be the right one but I figured I would check to be safe.

Slumpert wrote: ↑

Sun Oct 01, 2017 7:11 am

Just a FYI, the only wire that is designed to drive a load is the red wire.

All those other wires were intended to trigger the control box "aka relay" which would then allow power from the red wire to go to the accessory.

That harness is not the same as tapping into a actual ignition/acc wire. It is feed by the BCM, and that is likely why Nissan warns about what to connect to it.

So then the question is, if you blow the output circuit for the BCM by drawing too much power does it lose the ability to turn off the wire.. very possibly why yours are always on at this point.

I don't think that is true. The installation instructions for the wireless charging pad for the center console is only connected to the Orange (ACC) and Black (ground) on the accessory harness. And that pulls over 1A 5V for wireless charging. So, each of those wires has to support at least that much.