WhiteKnight wrote:Doesn't the TPS take a different plug with different wiring when going to manual MT?
You will be keeping the auto engine and transmission harness - it is alot easier to do so rather than trying to wir ein the 5 speed harnesses.WhiteKnight wrote:Doesn't the TPS take a different plug with different wiring when going to manual MT?
There you go - Use your head and make something work! Good job man!Jonnie Fraz wrote:Ok I saw that you did post that the S13 clutch pedal will work in the S14 chassis. There was mention of a "few washers" to make it line up. The stand offs on the back of the S14 pedal are 1.125" long. I have done several conversions on S13 pedals. A very simple way to do this is with two small lengths (1.125") of 3/8" pipe instead of a big stack of washers. You can simply sandwich the spacers in between the fire wall and the pedal. I choose to weld the spacers to the pedal and go over the spot welds on the pedal assembly. If you do a lot of clutch kicks the spot welds have a reputation for giving way, and then you get to limp your car home with no clutch.
im in the middle of this swap and was wondering if you really need the 5 spd bellhousing bolts? some writeups say you cannot resuse the auto ones, then some don't mention them, only the bolts on the the flywheel. there are also bolts that hold the clutch to the flywheel which are not mentioned in any writeup, what size are they/are the flywheel bolts dealer only?JDS Performance wrote:For all you guys/girls wanting to know.The difference between auto and 5 speed flywheels bolts
No problem Reed!
240driftguy wrote:im in the middle of this swap and was wondering if you really need the 5 spd bellhousing bolts? some writeups say you cannot resuse the auto ones, then some don't mention them, only the bolts on the the flywheel. there are also bolts that hold the clutch to the flywheel which are not mentioned in any writeup, what size are they/are the flywheel bolts dealer only?JDS Performance wrote:For all you guys/girls wanting to know.The difference between auto and 5 speed flywheels bolts
No problem Reed!
check the voltage on the starter, its really easy to forget to plug in the starter with everything else going on.CJams wrote:Car won’t start right now.
I have 2 cars. So I pulled the engine and transmission from a ’90 manual hatch and put it in a ’90 auto hatch. Everything is connected eccept the transmission wires and it wont start.
I spliced together the wires on the top plug behind the engine compartment fuse box. From what I understand the car should now start, but doesn’t. I turn the key and it acts like the battery is dead (or the clutch isn't pushed in). I’ve read a few threads about the wiring, but none of them make complete sense because wire colors are different and pictures just don’t look like the car I’m working on.
Wires I have:
The manual transmission wire harness coming from the plugs on the transmission:
(Note: none of these are currently connected)
Yellow with blue
Green with white
Green with orange (or brown)
Green with blue
Black
The speed sensor is also connected and seems to have a plug that it connects directly to in the engine bay on a harness..
I also clipped the wire harness from the auto transmission and have both the bottom and middle plugs for the plug behind the fuse box. Do I even need these?
Should the Manual ECU be used?
Thanks guys, I’d like to get this lil drifter rollin.
could be any number of things, create a new thread and you should get more replies.240roadz wrote:HI im new to this forum an i was wondering if some would give me some advice why my car is acting up, i have a 240sx auto, from time to time its wont shift into second gear. I had the filter fluid and pan gasket changed and the proble. Still continues. Can any one tell me why? Thanks
it hesitates from 1st to 2nd gear. Its funny cause what you described is exactly what i have been doing for the past two months , minus removing the battery cable. When i begin driving, now this happens on some occassions not all the time, in 1st gear i will reach around 4000 rpms at a slow start and still in first. Now i can continue to climb in rpms and no gear change still. Thanks for the response. Please help!!rsagen wrote:could be any number of things, create a new thread and you should get more replies.240roadz wrote:HI im new to this forum an i was wondering if some would give me some advice why my car is acting up, i have a 240sx auto, from time to time its wont shift into second gear. I had the filter fluid and pan gasket changed and the proble. Still continues. Can any one tell me why? Thanks
-anyways it stays in 1st and wont shift up? or stays in 3rd? or tries to skip 2nd?
i used to do lots of brake stands with my auto and when the burnout would come to an end it would stay in 3rd all the time. only way i found to reset it was to shut of the car, remove the battery cable for a bit, then hook it back up and fire the car up.
Are you serious bro....Read the first page.bassfaceesp wrote:can anyone guide me to a direct thorough step by step guide to complete auto to manual conversion?
i have a few 240 owning friends to help but the more i know the more i can get done
thanks to anyone who can help
ben
yes the splines are differnet. if i could remember my password for photo bucket id post some pics. anyway the teeth are different sizes and the diameter is different as well. I believe the 5sp is slightly smaller..driftneil wrote:Any one know if the auto and 5 speed splines on the input shafts are differnt from auto to manual driveshafts? Im using a one piece s14 shaft on a s14 car with a s13 sr, and the shaft wont fit into the transmission all the way?? But it fits into my ka 5 speed....
does it seem like it is slipping at all? If you are say doing 2,000 rpm in first and if you floor it for a second does it take a while for the speedo to catch up? how about if you try to manually shift? put it in 1st, bring your speed up, then put it in 2nd gear with the shifter, if it successfully goes into second gear, try third the same way (clicking off the OD button before you slide it into 3rd gear).240roadz wrote: it hesitates from 1st to 2nd gear. Its funny cause what you described is exactly what i have been doing for the past two months , minus removing the battery cable. When i begin driving, now this happens on some occassions not all the time, in 1st gear i will reach around 4000 rpms at a slow start and still in first. Now i can continue to climb in rpms and no gear change still. Thanks for the response. Please help!!
-1bassfaceesp wrote:can anyone guide me to a direct thorough step by step guide to complete auto to manual conversion?
i have a few 240 owning friends to help but the more i know the more i can get done
thanks to anyone who can help
ben
180fan wrote:s13 from our very own mod tenkawa_akito
zerothread?id=77784
S14 from nighkid86
zerothread/181139
Now this is stickied for both s13 and s14 owners. You post a question about this, I'm going to lock it down. Learn to use the search function or look at the top of the page maybe?
I know this is a late reply to his question from 2011, but it will help others.bassfaceesp wrote:Hi I'm having the hardest time comin across parts for the auto to man swap my question is this can you use a driveshaft or the yoke of driveshaft from a 5speed pick up that's from around same year?? Don't some of the nissan trucks have ka24 in them...please let me know thank you
I had trouble getting it out as well. BUT i found a puller at harbor freight that solved the troubles. I just put it in and tightened the puller just passed the lip of the auto pilot bushing. Then i slid the puller out slowly until i could feel it on in the crack slightly. then just tightened the puller as much as possible until. It then had enough grip to pull it out.A note on pulling the Automatic pilot bushing: i tried and tried and tried with 2 different pullers, no luck.couldnt get the puller to bite the end of the bushing, as there was less than an 1/8" gap.
SOLUTION: take a 3/8" drill bit, and drill into the bushing twice, directly across from each other, at an angle. just enough to give yourself something to grip with the puller. DO NOT DRILL ALL THE WAY THROUGH. came out first try once i did that, after struggling for over two hours.
Don't forget to clean out all the metal shavings... i used a blower nozzle on my compressor and then saturated a paper towel with wd-40 and twisted it and out a bunch of times, then used brake cleaner to remove any residue from the WD.