Yes, fully warmed, car level, trans in P or N. When the stream "hiccups" it's at the right level, replace the plug.DragonSlayr wrote: ↑Sat Jul 24, 2021 6:35 pmTo be clear, you remove the plug to the overflow while the car is running?
Yah, +1 on that. Once it's been through a few changes and enough miles for all the rough edges to smooth, there's no longer much point in dropping the pan as long as you keep the fluid clean.
Eneos is great, and my customers have also had fine results with AMSoil if you're past warranty and don't mind red+blue=purple. Specs on both of them equal or exceed NS3 and I haven't seen the slightest miscibility issues in changing over.
Your CVT thanks you (I'll say that since it can't talk)!nabril wrote: ↑Sun Apr 03, 2022 10:00 amI just did this for my wife's 2016 SL, and it was super easy like my 2015 last year.
Sure, removing that filler cap is a pain, and we all thank the ingenious folks at Nissan that placed that radiator hose right in front of it so as to limit the use of our right hand.
i inform everyone that the drain plug screw requires a 19mm socket, and the overflow port requires 14mm.
The color difference between new and drained oil is absolutely mind-blowing.
The paper filter to the cooler is only there to catch fine break-in shavings and Nissan doesn't recommend ever changing it. I agree with that unless you've found a lot of metal in the drain fluid. The fluid in a CVT pan is very slow moving and virtually everything metal drops out in the pan and gets caught by the magnets without ever passing through the front pump. Since a CVT also has almost no clutch material, there's nothing to ever clog that filter. You can change it if you want to, but in most instances it's tits on a bull. If you're doing a pan drop, the intake screen is just that, a screen. I've never seen one that couldn't be cleaned off and blown dry.
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The F/R clutches only ever do anything when you're shifting F/R. They can go a million miles and I've never seen one wear out (and I've seen lots of dead CVT's). The clutch that sometimes does fail is the Torque Converter Lockup, but even that's rare. For the record, I never tell anyone not to change the filters if they want to change them. Just that there's rarely any reason to want to (and you're quite right that it's a crappy job on a Rogue '10D).PowerslavePA wrote: ↑Mon Jun 12, 2023 12:48 pmThere is no reason not to change it, regardless of what people say or think.
Oil is oil. There is no indication in the service manual to change that
filter except for a rebuild, overhaul, or replacement of the CVT trans.
I would do it at least once, at at least 90,000 miles.
It is NOT an easy job either.
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The CVT7 has three forward clutch discs, and two reverse clutch discs.
You will have wear, and you will have clutch material on the magnets in
the pan, should you ever do a pan drop and filter change. Just because
someone says; "almost no clutch material, there's nothing to ever clog that filter."
doesn't mean diddly-doo. One time is better than never.
Much of that black scum is actually from clutch wear-in. You generally only see much of it on the first change and then don't see much again if you change the fluid regularly. The pan on my wife's Altie had quite a lot when we bought it (60K) but near-zero when I dropped the pan recently at 130K on its fourth change. I'd expect you'll see a similar drop off in the rate of scum production on your Rogue with your good maintenance practices.PowerslavePA wrote: ↑Mon Jun 12, 2023 1:39 pmWhen you are at idle, stopped, the RPMs drop, and the pressure is backed off
so that the clutches still slip, just lightly. They can wear prematurely for a few
reasons, and it happens. IF they did not wear, you would never have the
"mud" on the magnets in the trans pan, and the film at the bottom of the
pan. Even at 92K, it was light compared to my Camaro and Mustang, but
it was spread over three magnets, not one. However, it's still there, so they wear.