2011 headlight issue

[C-ya]

Sorry for the vague title, but I'm not sure how to label this. My daughter texted this morning saying her headlights aren't working. She stops by and I start looking it over. Headlight symbol on the dash is lit, so it thinks the lights are on even though the stalk switch is off. Turning the switch to park or headlight doesn't do or change anything. The tail lights are on no matter the switch position, and they stay on past the 5 minute timer when they should turn off. I think they are staying on all the time, but I haven't had the time to verify it as she had to go. Flash to pass doesn't light up the high beams, either, so nothing at the front. Her front marker/running lights haven't worked since we got it, and I checked the fuses and all the normal stuff for them with no luck. Turn signals work, so drive it.

I don't know what test eqpt or software would be needed to diagnose any of the modules. I have an OBDII dongle and Torque as well as CVTz50. I thought I had another app but I can't remember the name and therefore can't find it. Thanks for any thoughts and help with this.


ETA: she just called and said it is "acting weird" (she's 20 and not super mechanically inclined, despite my best efforts). While driving, the engine revs up like it is in neutral and the car slows down but then starts "driving" again. She made it home, but I told her to park it until I can look more into it. Is the CVT controlled by anything that could "disconnect" it from the driveline or make it act like it is in neutral? No check engine light was lit when it was here.

[C-ya]

Quick update. I had my daughter disconnect he battery so it wouldn't die from the tail lights being on constantly. When I got there today to check it out, the lights behaved normally. I did the IPDM test, and everything worked as it should. Lights flashed (and all other relays activated), tail lights weren't on, and the light indicator in the dash was off. I'll take it!

On to the transmission... I scanned it with CVTz50 before I drove it and found three codes: P0746, P1778, and P0868. Took it for a VERY short drive as it was "slipping" badly. Given that and the codes, I'm ordering a valve body assembly, gasket, and fluid. Researching whether or not any programming needs to be done.

[VStar650CL]

Yep, those are all classic slip codes on a '10A transmission. You do need to upload the IP's from the new VB to the TCM, but on a '10A you can do that with CVTz50. I strongly recommend you borescope the belt while you have the VB dropped, if it's damaged then a new VB won't help (or at least not for long). Most parts stores can rent you a scope if you don't own one, or you can get cheap ones that plug/bluetooth into your phone for as little as $20. This bulletin will tell you how to inspect the belt, it's for '10D's but your '10A has the same belt style:
https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2017/ ... 8-9999.pdf

[C-ya]

Thanks much for the advice! I have a borescope for my phone, so I'll certainly take a look. Thanks for that link,

I'll do a search on uploading the IPs. I also read that you can swap the black box on the VB and avoid the need to program. I'll grab the IP in case it doesn't work the other way.

[VStar650CL]

The IP's are easy. The FSM procedure is for use with the Consult3+ (Nissan's house scanner), but CVTz50 supports it. Where the procedure says to press "Erase" in the C3+, instead press and hold the "CVT Info" button in CVTz50. The procedure is "Pattern B" on TM-9 here:
https://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual ... 1%2FTM.pdf

[VStar650CL]

PS - Swapping the ROM is a terrible idea, you'll be running your brand new VB with incorrect solenoid data from your old VB. Not only does it defeat the purpose, it may actually make things worse.

[C-ya]

Thanks for those posts. I certainly don't want to be doing this again, so I'll get the IPs transferred.

[C-ya]

Well, I got into it today. Dropped the valve body and it doesn't match the one I bought. The one in the car has one pressure sensor and the one I bought has two. I'm guessing I'll need the one that matches.

Next problem I encountered was getting the plug out of the trans body housing. As in, I haven't gotten it out yet. It looks like you just use something to press it through to the inside and then press the replacement back through from the inside. Unless the plug comes apart and the round fitting stays in the trans body.

My final quandry will be how to align the arm the stepper motor drives when putting the valve body back in. I may just have it towed to a shop and let them order the valve body and deal with getting it back in.

[C-ya]

I found a video that showed how to deal with two of my problems, namely the wiring harness and the stepper arm. So now the question is whether or not I need another valve body.

[VStar650CL]

There's a horseshoe snap ring on the outside of the connector. Once it's out you press the connector body through to the inside. See TM-185:
nicoclub.com/service-manual?fsm=Rogue%2F2011%2FTM.pdf

How did the belt look? The VB is a pointless exercise if the belt is damaged. Post pics if you have them.

Very risky using a mismatched VB. My advice is get the right one. The parts book only shows one part number used on the '11's, 31705-3TX0A superseded by 31705-3TX0C. Either one will work. I see lots of aftermarket on eBay for $100~140. The stepper shouldn't need any calibration, just get it back on the hook. We don't ever change them as a piece-part, but my understanding is that the TCM will run it to the extent when it powers up and then step from there, so it basically self-calibrates every time you start the car.

[C-ya]

I bought a valve body with the single pressure sensor. I thought the usual - if the part doesn't match, it doesn't work. Thanks for the TM-185 info. I was planning on taking the harness loose from the VB itself and reuse the harness that is in the car.

The phone that I use with the borescope camera didn't charge but it was due to being plugged into a dead outlet. I have it charged now, so when I get back to it, I'll stick it up there. I'll only be able to check whatever I can see without it rotating as the car is on ramps, not a lift (see sig). If there is excessive wear, we'll evaluate our next move. If this will get her back on the road until we can get something else, then so be it - we'll run it. Not sure if we'll go with a replacement trans or not if needed. We'll weigh the plusses and minuses as the car is a 2011 and has some wear and tear from 160K miles.

[VStar650CL]

If the belt is scored it will almost always show up around the entire perimeter (I say "almost" because it's theoretically possible, but I've never actually seen one that wasn't scored around the entire circumference). So I wouldn't sweat not being able to rotate it. The main thing is to inspect the correct area as shown in Fig 11 of the bulletin, scoring will occur only in that one very particular section of the belt face.

[C-ya]

The IP's are easy. The FSM procedure is for use with the Consult3+ (Nissan's house scanner), but CVTz50 supports it. Where the procedure says to press "Erase" in the C3+, instead press and hold the "CVT Info" button in CVTz50. The procedure is "Pattern B" on TM-9 here:
https://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual ... 1%2FTM.pdf

I got it back together and filled it up with fluid. I was using CVTz50 to monitor temps and to get ready to reset the IP info. When I press and hold CVT info, should I see anything? I didn't, but I wasn't sure how long to hold it. 5, 10 seconds, and when I let go, it goes into the info screen.

One other thing - I got a fault code on the test drive for the stepper motor again (P0868). I was hoping to get something as it was still not normal. I think I didn't get the little stepper motor arm on the pin (the arm the stepper motor shaft moves). A video I saw said to use a pick or something through the valve body to hold it in place. This VB, being new and dry, didn't have any pressure, so the arm was moving back and forth so I bet it didn't stay where I put it. I'm thinking now it should have some pressure and the Allen key I'm planning on using should work.

Yay! One more drain, diss/re-assemble, and refill. Good times...

[VStar650CL]

P0868 isn't the stepper, it's for the secondary pulley. The stepper controls the primary. I don't think the transmission would even move if the stepper was off the hook, but in any case you'd be getting a P1778 or some other code for the primary. P0868 is a pressure code, so either the new VB or your pump has a problem. The VB could be because it didn't take the "CVT Info" command, I can't tell you how that works because we use the C3+ here at work. That information came from another poster who got it from the customer service folks at CVTz50.

[C-ya]

Thanks for the info. Just got it buttoned up and warming up to top off the fluid. If it doesn't do what it's supposed to, I'll get it to a shop next week.

[C-ya]

You're right - it was one of the first three codes I had, so I got confused. I'll call the shop Monday morning and see when they can get it in to look at it. I'll let them know what I did in hopes that they can get the IPs right and see if that helps. The car is still not driving correctly, so I'm guessing it will be a used transmission going in unless the IPs help.

Thanks again for all the help.

[VStar650CL]

Just curious, but did you scope the belt while the VB was down? If not, that may have been a mistake. Putting a VB on a transmission with a chewed belt is lipstick on a pig. That never works.

[C-ya]

Just curious, but did you scope the belt while the VB was down? If not, that may have been a mistake. Putting a VB on a transmission with a chewed belt is lipstick on a pig. That never works.

Unfortunately I did not. The first time working on it, the phone battery was dead due to me plugging it into a dead outlet where I was at. The second time, I forgot about it. Doesn't seem to matter as I'm sure this one will be coming out. I'm guessing it would be prohibitively expensive to repair the current one. If we decide to keep the car, might as well swap a low-mileage used unit in and start shopping after the ROI period.

[VStar650CL]

I'm guessing it would be prohibitively expensive to repair the current one. If we decide to keep the car, might as well swap a low-mileage used unit in and start shopping after the ROI period.

It isn't actually prohibitive, the aftermarket is selling belt and pulley sets for '10A's these days. It's that you need at least one special jig and a lot of expertise, so it isn't a job for most DIYers (or even most shops). The other half of the problem is that the last '10A's went into the Rogue Select in '15, so almost everything out there will be more than 11 years old. Your best course is to try to find one that you can get with the mated TCM, which not only obviates any programming but also lets you check the TCM for codes before installing the trans. With CVT's you need to be very wary of pigs in pokes. I like car-part.com for stuff like that, because the JY's who list on it mostly catalog their parts by VIN and you can dig online to find the transmission and TCM from the same car.

[C-ya]

Thanks. Checking out car-part.com now. The shop I'm planning to use has let me source my own parts so maybe he'll be OK with it this time if needed. I'll make sure to grab one with its TCM if we go that route.

[C-ya]

Dealership flashed the info into the transmission but there is still trouble in paradise. Their quote is $8,537 to replace it. They also said the wrong color (but NS-2 and NS-3 spec fluid) is causing immediate and permanent damage to EVERY component inside the transmission and needs to be replaced. "Nissan fluid is green, not red or orange."

They of course quoted other work (granted, needed but not dire) to the tune $5K. $13.5K for a car I paid $800 for? LOL!! $13.5K will buy a nice used car, newer and with fewer miles. Off to LKQ it goes for $595. Easier than me trying to sell it as a non-driver for any decent amount of money.

VStar650CL, what is your opinion on aftermarket but spec-conforming fluid?

[VStar650CL]

They're completely full of s#it about that. Fluid that's rated NS2/NS3 is fine, period. Some are noisier than others but none of them will hurt your transmission. AMSoil is the best damn stuff on the planet and it's red as a beet.

[C-ya]

They're completely full of s#it about that. Fluid that's rated NS2/NS3 is fine, period. Some are noisier than others but none of them will hurt your transmission. AMSoil is the best damn stuff on the planet and it's red as a beet.

Thanks for your opinion on that. That's how I base my repairs. Does the part/fluid meet OEM specs? If so, and it is cheaper than factory/OEM, I'm buying it because I'm not made of money. There is a guy on the Touareg forum I'm on that swears VW DEF (AdBlue) is all you should use in a VW diesel, otherwise your emissions system will go to pot. I used the Super Tech from Wal-Mart with no ill effects.

[VStar650CL]

There is a guy on the Touareg forum I'm on that swears VW DEF (AdBlue) is all you should use in a VW diesel, otherwise your emissions system will go to pot. I used the Super Tech from Wal-Mart with no ill effects.

There are certain parts on every vehicle where aftermarket is just a bad idea. Hall sensors on Nissans (cam, crank, and some assorted others) are an example. That doesn't mean you can't use aftermarket MAF sensors on those same cars, those generally work fine as long as you aren't too lazy to calibrate them. However, it's very rare to see that situation with fluids. Big Oil and Big Chemical know they can get sued to the tune of $gazillions for claiming false equivalence or failing to dot the tiniest f#cking "i" in the standards. So in practice, that simply doesn't happen. When the label says, "meets the OEM standard of X," you can be about 99.9999999999999999999999999999999999% confident that it's just fine.