How do I remove the lower instrument panel, on the driver's side of a 2010 Nissan Murano SL? I need to replace the blower relay on the back of the fuse block.

Should just be a couple of screws on the bottom of the cowling, if it's anything like almost all other Nissans. You can also check the FSM. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM

I followed the instructions in the FSM, becoming lost when directed to remove the "Front Pillar Garnish" I can't even identify the part on the car. The diagram is poor. And, following steps are not credible. They have you removing the front left speaker grill, speaker and outside temperature sensor.

I have removed this panel on my 2007 Murano. It was as you related, i.e., little more than a couple of screws.

Regardless, your response is appreciated.

I forged ahead and replaced the blower motor relay. I thought, I would share the procedure here as follows:

1) Move the driver's seat all the way back.
2) Disconnect the negative battery cable, utilizing a 10 mm socket or combination wrench. Secure the cable.
3) Disconnect the positive battery cable, utilizing a 10 mm socket or combination wrench. Secure the cable.
4) Remove the two self tapping flanged machine screws, securing the hood release. A 10 mm socket with a short extension or medium Philips screwdriver will work. A mirror is also helpful.
5) Disconnect the OBD port, from the lower half of the instrument panel, with a stubby Philips screw driver. Here again, a mirror is helpful. There are two self tapping Philips head screws.
6) Remove the fuse block door.
7) Utilizing a plastic pry bar remove the dashboard endcap, by prying low and working your way up. Nissan calls it a finisher in the FSM. It sits on the joint, between the lower half and the upper half of the instrument panel. There is one on each side of the car. When the doors are closed they are not noticeable.
8) The above steps will have exposed two tabs securing the lower half of the instrument panel. Gently pry the instrument panel back, with a plastic pry bar, near these tabs until just free.
9) Place a plastic crate, cardboard box, or other suitable object, under the insturment panel, leaving about three inches of clearance.
10) Grip the insturment panel with both hands. The left near the tabs where you pryed, the right underneath, on the right. Pull back firmly, with control, i.e., pull far enough and hard enough to disengage the tabs, no more. There are cables and a duct attached. Use the plasic prybar as needed.
11) Rest the insturment panel on the crate or box, in order to relieve strain to the attached cables and duct.
12) Remove the four self tapping philips head screws securing the switch panel with a stubby philips screw driver.
13) Remove the key fob reader with a T20 Torx. There are two screws.
14) Remove the single T20 torx securing the air intake apparatus. Slide it out of the panel. There is no need to remove the duct or cable. It all comes out in one piece.
15) The lower half of the insturment panel is now free; remove it. Inspect the tabs, making sure all the white plastic clips are present. If not, recover them from the insturment panel and reattach.
16) Near the upper right hand corner of the fuse block, there is an unknown electrical device secured by a single self tapping machine screw. It is identical to the two screws that held the hood release. Remove it, with a 10 mm socket or medium phillips head screw driver.
17) Tuck the device just removed, along with the switch panel out of the way, i.e., up and to the right
18)Remove the two self tapping philip head screws securing the fuse block.
19)Remove the upper right hand bracket from the white plastic fuse block, by prying back the plastic tab securing it. It will slide right out. Examination of the lower unused mount will provide clarity.
20) Gently manipulate the fuse block, until the lower left metal bracket is in front of its mounting position.
21) Grip the now, relatively, free fuse block between your palms, while gripping the upper blue relay between your index fingers, pushing it out. This will take patience and strong fingers.
22) Once out, lay it down, maintaing orientation, i.e., keep the up side up.
23) Orient the new relay as the old and push it in, gently at first. Once you are sure all the pins are aligned and started, push it in firmsly. Make sure, it is all the way in.
24) Reasemble in reverse order.

Additional Notes:

When replacing the insturment panel, it may take a couple of palm strikes to make it snug. Be sure all the tabs are aligned and started before striking.

Harbor Freight has a nice inexpensive set of plastic pry tools for about seven dollars. They are the yellow ones.

A couple of stacked aerobic steps made for a nice work platform. It was better than sitting on the frozen garage concrete floor. It also made for an improved work height.

Please don't hesitate to post any questions you my have.

Wow, thanks for the update! Great how-to!