2009 240Z build

A forum for owners of S30 and S130 Datsun Z's... 240Z, 260Z, 280Z and 280ZX!
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gmac708
Posts: 1913
Joined: Thu Jul 31, 2008 1:59 pm
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1970 240Z
1972 510

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Sorry for no updates. I have been busy with work and stuff.Cam sold his S13 and purchased an S14 w/KA-T. A real fixer-upper. I see potential and a lot of work. We spent the weekend playing around and replacing all the missing bolts and hardware. Getting a few more things working.

I did get the Z turned around in the garage so I can work on the back-end. I did purchase a fuel tank and a bunch of steel to start the install. She is back up on the jack stands and ready for some welding. Pictures to follow...

Gord


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nissangirl74
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Car: 2014 Xterra Pro4X, '12 Titan 4x4, '98 240sx, '89 Pao, '77 620, '72 240Z w/RB25, '68 510, '67 WRL411, '67.5 SPL 311, '63 Bluebird, '63 NL320

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JDM_albert wrote:Anything new happening soon? Sorry to bust your balls, I just need an update I think I'm going through withdrawl...
Would you like to know how many hours I've spent reading this thread instead of updating my own?!?

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spooled240
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Car: kouki s14

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i bet he's gonna love the ka-t compared to the sr, just a guess

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J14cm7
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Car: 95 240sx S14 SR20det
Location: Cincinnati, OH

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spooled240 wrote:i bet he's gonna love the ka-t compared to the sr, just a guess
Spooled whys it gotta be like that? Is there going to be a build thread on this one gord?

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gmac708
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Joined: Thu Jul 31, 2008 1:59 pm
Car: :o)
1970 240Z
1972 510

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SR was 248HP to rear wheels on dyno. Cam says this one is faster. I have not driven it yet but I want to say "bulls**t". I will keep you updated...this could get interresting.

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AZ89two4Tsx
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Pics of said new car!

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spooled240
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Car: kouki s14

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J14cm7 wrote:
Spooled whys it gotta be like that? Is there going to be a build thread on this one gord?
haha i'm just a ka fan, they pull hard
gmac708 wrote:SR was 248HP to rear wheels on dyno. Cam says this one is faster. I have not driven it yet but I want to say "bulls**t". I will keep you updated...this could get interresting.
wow that's pretty good, you guys just had the FMIC, intercooler and exhaust right? Thing with ka-t's is that it will put down the same 248hp but it will put down even more torque, maybe around 260 ftlbs of with 248hp depending on the mods.

drive it to believe it lol

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J14cm7
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Car: 95 240sx S14 SR20det
Location: Cincinnati, OH

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I bet the KA-T will pull more if its comparable boost. The reliabilty of those things just scares me. What psi were you running on the dyno gordon. I have pretty much the same setup and am to cheap to dyno mine haha. I would like to know a ball park of what mine is running

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gmac708
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Joined: Thu Jul 31, 2008 1:59 pm
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1970 240Z
1972 510

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Alright, enough about the kids 240SX. Time for an update on the Z.

I took her outside and took a few pictures. It was nice to finally get some nice weather.

I think the air dam and ZG flares came out looking good together...







Anyway...back up on jacks. I'm going to get the fuel system installed and have to have good access on the back and the bottom.



I ended up going for the Aeromotive aluminum fuel tank. It came with everything I wanted.



The first thing I did was take it apart and check it out. The eliminator fuel pump is a monster. It has a really cool inlet filter.



The fuel cell has a collector tank built inside. The fuel pump inlet sits almost flush on bottom. The return fuel enters the tank through that tube on the left. There is also a fuel qty sender 0-90 ohm.



so......I welded in a couple supports across the back. I was concerned about leaving a crumple zone in the back. I tried to keep things as far forward and low as possible.





Fab up a few attachment brackets w/nut.



Attach brackets.



Fab up some straps.



I am going to line the straps with rubber, so they are bit loose right now. Just sort of bolted them up to check it out.





I am going to get the fuel lines done before I close up the floor. Everything should end up welded together and be strong enough to support the fuel tank and keep the fuel "outside".

That's it for now...time for a beer.

Gord

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S13AL
Posts: 444
Joined: Sun May 03, 2009 4:31 pm
Car: 1991 240sx hatch with blacktop s13 sr20det, HKS Hipermax III suspension, HKS Sport exhaust, Blitz downpipe, S15 Sylvia HLSD, 300zx/J30 5 lug and brakes, and mesh wheels
Location: Kirkland, Wa

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how much does the tank hold?

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gmac708
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1970 240Z
1972 510

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15 gallon20 X 18 X 10

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J14cm7
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Great work gord. That fuel pump is a beast.

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RustspecS13
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Looking good! I really gotta stop by some time after I get the RB and hang out for a minuet.

I need to go paint some stuff while the weather is good.

~Alex

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esteppen
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Car: 1973 Datsun 240z

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This build is drugs...I swear I'm hooked. Good stuff, got anymore?

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evildky
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that fuel cell makes my wallet hurt

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spooled240
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this looks kinda cool w/ no headlights or a fancy paint job ha

is there anything keeping you from starting the engine now that the fuel tank/pump is in?

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GRNMACHINE
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esteppen wrote:This build is drugs...I swear I'm hooked. Good stuff, got anymore?
You are Not Kidding, I think the first few pictures are free, and then those that come back for more, thats when they start charging ya!!

This is an awesome and inspiring build.

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gmac708
Posts: 1913
Joined: Thu Jul 31, 2008 1:59 pm
Car: :o)
1970 240Z
1972 510

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evildky wrote:that fuel cell makes my wallet hurt
Mine too...but I'm finally making some progress. I'm over it. It's kinda like the oil pan. I had to do something, and I would rather error on the side of too much than too little, if that makes any sense.
RustspecS13 wrote:Looking good! I really gotta stop by some time after I get the RB and hang out for a minuet. ~Alex
Always welcome to stop by
spooled240 wrote:this looks kinda cool w/ no headlights or a fancy paint job hais there anything keeping you from starting the engine now that the fuel tank/pump is in?
I'll finish up the fuel system, then try and complete the water cooling system. Then I have to get the MAF's hooked up. Then the oil, maybe remote filter/oil cooler...then the electrical....i should be done by Sunday

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gmac708
Posts: 1913
Joined: Thu Jul 31, 2008 1:59 pm
Car: :o)
1970 240Z
1972 510

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Time for another update.

I got the tank installed again, this time with the straps painted and foam insulation between the straps and the tank.



This should help protect the tank.



Today I fabbed a bracket to mount the filter to. It was a pain in the butt and I had to weld upside-down again . I welded a little plate under the bracket, to make the floor level where I wanted to mount the bracket. The floor is fairly thin metal and I had to use the copper backing to prevent blow through.



Made some hoses. -10 reduced to -8 out of pump and -8 on return fitting.



-8 to a -10 adapter for filter inlet and -8 bulkhead fitting.



Plenty of room.



Easy to change filter.





That's it for now.

Gord

Tomorrow...the vent system.

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esteppen
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Car: 1973 Datsun 240z

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gmac708 wrote:Time for another update.

I got the tank installed again, this time with the straps painted and foam insulation between the straps and the tank.



This should help protect the tank.



Today I fabbed a bracket to mount the filter to. It was a pain in the butt and I had to weld upside-down again . I welded a little plate under the bracket, to make the floor level where I wanted to mount the bracket. The floor is fairly thin metal and I had to use the copper backing to prevent blow through.



Made some hoses. -10 reduced to -8 out of pump and -8 on return fitting.



-8 to a -10 adapter for filter inlet and -8 bulkhead fitting.



Plenty of room.



Easy to change filter.





That's it for now.

Gord

Tomorrow...the vent system.
SWEET. DUDE. SWEET. DUDE....

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J14cm7
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There should be some sort of rule against reposting all the pics just to make a one line comment...gordon your basically my hero and i have to see this thing in person sometime. I posted my 1/4 mile times on my thread if you wanna check it out.

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spooled240
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everything is so proper
J14cm7 wrote:There should be some sort of rule against reposting all the pics just to make a one line comment...
exactly what i was thinking, it pwns the OP's photo hosting account too


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S13AL
Posts: 444
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Car: 1991 240sx hatch with blacktop s13 sr20det, HKS Hipermax III suspension, HKS Sport exhaust, Blitz downpipe, S15 Sylvia HLSD, 300zx/J30 5 lug and brakes, and mesh wheels
Location: Kirkland, Wa

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Obviously what makes a build like this possible is some moneys but, what I really love about this build is the attention to details. like the foam lining on the straps. Every mod seems to be executed perfectly .. OH and the tank looks awesome by the way lol.

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gmac708
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Joined: Thu Jul 31, 2008 1:59 pm
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1970 240Z
1972 510

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A little update.

Going to run the new fuel lines. The old ones run above the diff and tranny so...

Out comes the R200 and the axles. Quick job of that, really easier than it looks.



Lots of room up here now.



The fuel and brake lines are tucked way up high. Probably a good place for them to be away from possible damage. Good idea.



Now to pull the tranny. My first attempt to separate the engine and transmission in the car. I had to support the back of the engine because the engine mounts are so far forward. Engine was later resting on block at firewall and chain.



And out she came...



Now for the fuel and brake lines...I suppose I should have done all this a few months ago when everything was already out.



Started to get everything all cleaned up.



And ...then I ended up working on the 240SX.

And that reminds me, I need more zip-ties...



Gord

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gmac708
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1970 240Z
1972 510

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Well...It's not much to look at, but I got one of the fuel lines installed. -8 line was a bear to bend and flare. I used the old fuel line for a template and kind of fiddled with it.

Image

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The second fuel line is next.

Gordon

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HxC_Nismo
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so why didnt you just run the stainless braided line all the way to the front instead of the route you took? also i just came across this build today because i was actually looking for info on a 240z for my next project car since my s14 is going to be completley done by this summer. maybe when your done with this car you can sell it to me(and im serouis too). keep it coming man, cause this thread is like p0rn to me lol.

carps13guy
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Car: 91 coupe ka

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looking good gordon. i haven't checked this thread in a while. lots of progress :)

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S13AL
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Car: 1991 240sx hatch with blacktop s13 sr20det, HKS Hipermax III suspension, HKS Sport exhaust, Blitz downpipe, S15 Sylvia HLSD, 300zx/J30 5 lug and brakes, and mesh wheels
Location: Kirkland, Wa

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HxC_Nismo wrote:so why didnt you just run the stainless braided line all the way to the front instead of the route you took?
Maybe because the hard lines would last longer and they're cheaper? I dunno Just a guess.
:bigthumb:

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gmac708
Posts: 1913
Joined: Thu Jul 31, 2008 1:59 pm
Car: :o)
1970 240Z
1972 510

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HxC_Nismo wrote:so why didnt you just run the stainless braided line all the way to the front instead of the route you took?
I purchased 20 feet 1/2 X .035 T304 SMLS @ $3.82/ft + tax = $81.56 (I had cut into 2 ten foot lengths, just fit inside the XB). I have about 2' left over.

Stainless tubing has a smaller outer diameter than braided and can be tucked up under and in the tunnel. I thought long and hard about using braided, I even thought about running it inside the car. Aluminum tubing is easier to bend and flare but is just unsafe in my opinion. It can't be run inside your car and can be damaged easily under the car and it would corrode over time. Nope, stainless tubing :dblthumb:

UPDATE

I found a use for my cheep 37 degree flaring tool. I used it to clamp the tubing when I went to cut it. :gapteeth:

Don't use the roller type tubing cutter when you cut stainless. It makes the stainless too hard to flare. Use a hack saw blade.

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Then use a file to dress the end flat. Here I did find a use for the old tool to clean up the inside.

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Everything should be smooth for a nice clean flare.

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I have access to several flaring tools at work that range in price all the way up to $500 smackers and they all failed to flare the larger stainless tubing correctly. I did some research and ended up purchasing this Ridgid tool Model 377 P/N 41162 for $99. It is the best flaring tool I have ever used. Those other flaring tools are great for aluminum and steel smaller diameter stuff, but this thing rocks.

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Clamp the tubing in and don't forget to put the sleeve and nut on before you flare.

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Crank it down, the business end of the mandrel is on an eccentric cam (off-set). It will push the flare out evenly and the top handle part ratchets when you are done.
Perfect every time

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Don't forget to plug. It keeps the dirt out until you get it hooked up, also protects the paint and your body, that exposed flared stainless end is sharp!

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Anyway...I got the second line run. It fits in there just right, plenty of room around it.

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Tomorrow I will start on making a bracket to support the forward end of the fuel lines and then work on clamping everything.

hbpignosePA
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Location: Amish Country Pa

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so rad gord

havent checked here for a while

glad to see just as much win as usual


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