So I bought this van to use for camping. It's rough and it's red but so far I like it anyway. So it has the loose timing chain chatter, I removed the primary tensioner access cover to check out the damage and the guide is toast. I'm working on removing the front cover. So far I've hit two annoying problems I'll call them. First when wrenching the lower nut on the motor mount bracket bolt or stud, the nut didn't break loose, the stud turned out of the block. From a video I watched of a guy doing this job on a 2004 Maxima, I assumed that bolt had to come out to remove the cover. He removed the nut and then with vice grips removed the stud which was short enough to clear the frame and come out. The stud on my van is too long to be removed as is. Does anyone know if the cover will clear this stud if it is left in the block? Assuming I get the nut off that's what I'm hoping. Otherwise looks like the front frame would need to be lowered about 2" to get clearance to remove the stud.
Second problem so far. I can't locate with certainty or get a 14mm socket or wrench on the rear bolt on the power steering pump that needs to be removed to both remove the PS belt and remove the timing cover, that bolt is into the cover also. I just don't see the head of the bolt clearly. I see the end of the bolt where it is in the pump on the front of the engine but there doesn't seem to be clearance around the head to get a socket on it. And where the clearance is for wrenching looks problematic. Any tips on this one?
Luckily I'm under no pressure to get this work completed so I can take my time and not rush ahead and create more problems by so doing. I'm sure I will create problems though, I always do. Any insights will be very much appreciated. Thanks!

schuylkill wrote: ↑

Tue Apr 06, 2021 3:25 pm

Second problem so far. I can't locate with certainty or get a 14mm socket or wrench on the rear bolt on the power steering pump that needs to be removed to both remove the PS belt and remove the timing cover, that bolt is into the cover also.

Not sure about your spun stud, but the only good way I know of to get that P/S bolt is from the opposite side of the car with a swivel and a looooonnnnng extension.

AAAhhhh I'll have to investigate that. Too bad I lost my job at the sheetmetal fab/machine shop where I worked for 32 years and was dismissed without even a goodbye from the owner who I worked for for 32 years. My son works in a weld shop now he can probably rig something for me. I do have a 2 or 3 foot long 3/8 extension in the basement now maybe I can build from that. Thanks.

So I got the steering pump pivot bolt loose by using a pry bar on a 14 mm box wrench. The adjustment bolt still won't budge though, I brushed it down with Kroil and have another look tomorrow. This project is certainly not going smoothly.

So I've been cleaning parts for awhile now, have the cover off and installed new tensioner, slack guide, top guide and water pump. Unfortunately I messed up big time and lost timing. Here's where things stand.

So my worst fears about this water pump replacement somehow came to fruition, now I need input on recovery method. I removed the tensioner with chain set at tdc. All the marks were in their correct positions. I have the front timing cover removed, engine in van. I removed the tensioner then rotated engine ccw about 20 deg. and slack was created in the chain at the water pump. But it wasn't enough to clear the body of the pump. I carefully, I thought, tried to get more slack by rotating slightly more and uh-oh, ping sound and I knew I was screwed. I was able to get in the pump but now the right side cams are out of time. I believe that's #2 bank, by the firewall. I put the tensioner back and I can rotate the engine without any binding or noises. When I set the crank again at tdc the left side cam marks are perfect, only right side is out. So I removed the tensioner again, and with the top guide removed I can remove the main chain off of the #2 bank which is th e problem. My plan is to remove the intake and valve cover on that side and then rotate the cam shaft until it is in the correct position according to the marks and by the camshaft itself once I learn how to understand that. I wanted to replace the valve cover gasket anyway but only bought the left side for starters because I can see it is leaking and it's accessible. Well now I will be doing both. I guess I should pull them both to work on this timing problem, want to make sure I get it right but also want to do minimum work necessary. Should I worry about the main chain not being in the correct position on the sprockets I am wondering too.
Anyway I'll be looking around for advice while I work on getting the intake off first. This is definitely my project van now.

And I want to know what I did wrong with the water pump replacement. Man!

The easiest way to keep time once you get it all lined up is zip ties. Wrap 2~3 around the main chain at various heights and pull them tight, then nothing can jump out before you get the guides and tensioners arranged. Btw, one veeeeeeery important detail. The new tensioners won't have oil pressure when you first spin the engine, and if it fires immediately there's a good chance of jumping 2~3 teeth. Pull the fuel pump fuse before you spin it and crank dry for about 30 seconds to let the tensioners pump up. Then reinstall the fuse and let it run.

So zip ties along a straight section of chain or between a vertical and horizontal section where it wraps on the gears? And thanks for the fuse tip, I haven't seen that mentioned anywhere. I'm chillin for now, trying to regroup, I wanted to get the front cover back on. Plan to watch the Philadelphia Union match tonight at 8 and Phillies are on also.

Yah, the cam chains won't jump if the main chain can't move, so zipping the main chain tight will keep it all in place till you're ready to pop the pin on the tensioner. I've seen a lot of guys make that no-pressure mistake, and by now you can tell it's a very bad job to have to do over for a bad reason. So take no chances, you're welcome.

Pull the fuel pump fuse before you spin it and crank dry for about 30 seconds to let the tensioners pump up. Then reinstall the fuse and let it run.

I think I got it set, the right rocker cover was leaking pretty badly so it wasn't a complete waste. Cramped reaching back in there though, trying to stay calm. I won't forget your suggestion.
Thanks

Anyone have info on how to disable the fuel pump? I'm looking in service manual and can't locate information on a fuse or relay for the pump and online search says there is a relay but it isn't serviceable, whatever that may mean. Manual must have info somewhere, still looking.

Should be in the IPDM (the under-hood power box). So should the relay.

Hey VStar650CL I found a diagram on the #1 under hood power box. I currently have it tied out of the way so I haven't checked the actual box but diagram says there is both a relay for the fuel pump and a 15A fuse for the fuel pump relay. Should I pull both or just the fuse or just the relay? I know you posted to pull the fuse but want to double check your advice again if you get the time. Thanks.

Without pulling up the WD, I'd say yanking both won't hurt.

Does anyone have advice on installing the valve cover gaskets on this engine. RTV needs to be added at the 2 sharp corners at the front. On the old gasket it looks like besides a glob filling up the acute space at the sharp corners, a thin bead runs along the gasket for about 2" from each corner, along both legs of the gasket at each corner. So can the rtv be applied only to the gasket sitting in the cover or should it also be applied to the head?