Hello everyone, I am new to this forum and a proud owner of a new to me 2003 Q45 Premium. I had a few general maintenance/repair related questions about my car.

1. My car has the infamous cracked manifold issue and I am looking at replacement units. The car was in CA its whole life so it has a CARB emissions system. However, I live in Arizona, where they are not as stringent in the emissions department. If I was to buy a replacement manifold that isn't "CARB approved" will it cause a CEL or any other issues, or will it be fine? From what I could gather, there shouldn't be an issue, but I wanted to confirm.

2. Found an old thread on here about this issue, but didn't help me. The ENTER joystick on the center control panel is having issues registering commands properly. When I click down on it, it (about 60% of the time) either does nothing or interprets it as "up" or "down" or left or right. What would be the remedy here? Is the joystick broken, or could I take the car to an electronics repair place and see if its a bad contact or something? I looked up the motherboard under the panel and its about 700 dollars. Too rich for my blood.

3. Related to previous question. How does one go about removing the center panel? I found the section in the FSM that details this, but I was sort of vague. Any guidance would be appreciated.

4. My car also has the ICC option. When I press the button to engage it, it beeps and an orange light saying CRUISE appears in the little display in the IP. After this, nothing happens until I turn it back off. I heard cleaning the sensor could help, so I tried that to no avail. Also heard that maybe the sensor could use an adjustment? Any further advice is welcome.

5. Lastly, my car is at 99k miles and I'm wondering if a transmission flush is needed. There seems to be much debate on this, especially since its a sealed unit. All other fluids have been done at this point.

Welcome infinitiemperor97!

I'll be the first to admit, I'm no EXPERT. I have had my center panel out before to replace the bulb/s in my clock. Before I replaced those bulbs, my center panel was perfect. Now after having read the FSM pon removing it, and learning the part of the instructions the FSM is vague on, I can tell you how to do it!

Follow the instructions to the letter. Keep in mind, there is a screw behind the little black plastic plates at the top left and right that say (1. infiniti) and (2. security). Pop those plates off and remove those screws. Then gingerly remove the center panel.

I wasn't aware of those two screws. Now that my clock lights up, I'm looking at a center panel with a crack from one side to the other .

Regarding the transmission fluid. I assume you've seen where its sealed, right where you would expect a dipstick for the tranny to be. I purchased the dipstick for my car from infinitipartsusa web site. Remove the cover, and insert the dipstick. The reason its sealed is because Infiniti didn't want someone to put in the wrong fluid, or the wrong fluid level. As long as you can put the right fluid, and at the right level, should be good to go.

I have zero experience with your other questions. No worries though, someone will post an answer that may know.

All the best,
~HollywoodJackson~

Thanks for the reply! For removing the center panel, what would you recommend using to pop off the plates and panel? And for the tranny fluid, should I go ahead and flush it just based on age and mileage, or only if its dark and obviously bad? And is there a part number for the dipstick?

I would carefully use a small flat head screwdriver to pop those plates off at the top. They pop off pretty easily. Be careful though the one with 'security' on it has a little bulb as well (my '02 does). Once you have the center panel connectors all removed, CAREFULLY pull it out, per the instructions. It is a very fragile piece.

The reason I purchased a dipstick for my tranny fluid was because I had to install a new radiator. The tranny fluid leaked everywhere. So I needed a way to tell when it was full again. It's very sensitive as well. Not enough fluid, and she will slip. You'll have to get input from one of the resident mechanics regarding tranny fluid life. I would say, if it's not slipping, don't crack open that seal to mess with the tranny fluid at all.

All the best,
~HollywoodJackson~

Welcome to the forum. Here is my input:

1. Exhaust
Don't worry about it. I doubt any F50s came with special manifolds from the factory. They should all be able to be smogged in CA.
On aftermarket replacements, I don't know why a manufacturer would bother to make 2 different versions - maybe they just don't want to deal with some stringent regulations? At the end of the day, a catalyst is a catalyst* so I don't expect any CEL as a result of it. I'd buy the replacement and keep trucking.
Out of curiosity, is it your left manifold that is cracked by chance? And do you have a CEL or code?

2. Transmission
I'm going to quote something I've always said regarding transmissions, but generally speaking new fluid shouldn't hurt. The method of doing the maintenance is what might cause problems. Pay a Nissan or Infiniti dealership to do it if you want the peace of mind of fresh fluid. They warrant the work and ensure you have the correct level in there.

HINT: To see the rest of the context of a quote, click that UP arrow after the words "EdBwoy wrote:"

EdBwoy wrote: ↑

Sat Dec 02, 2017 10:44 am

Wow! 300? That is good to see. But honestly I'm not surprised.

I've always believed that for a normally operated passenger vehicle, transmission fluid isn't the kind of thing that needs to be changed out all the time. If manufacturers leave it out of recommended service, it's not due to forgetfullness. Furthermore, these days they even don't give you a dipstick. It sucks that it makes it harder for DIY inspections and replacements, but unless you see a leak, you shouldn't have to deal with trans fluid.

EdBwoy wrote: ↑

Thu Nov 30, 2017 9:09 pm

...
Transmission fluid, yes it scares a tinkerer like me to not be able to check my fluids often, but honestly transmission fluid shouldn't need to be messed with that often. My 05 XJ8 was the first car with no trans dipstick, and it wasn't too terrifying to maintain. The only reason I even had to deal with it is because the pan gasket was leaking. Like diamonds, fluids might be forever but gaskets and seals ain't! Oh, and the old 160k mile fluid was just as clean as the new one going in.
Honestly, the dealer charges about 300 bucks to do it, if you're concerned I'd pay them to do it...

Of course, I wouldn't go on record encouraging anyone to stop doing regular fluid changes, as generally speaking, the correct new oil can't be bad.
Plus, peace of mind is a big factor!


BCC, if (*knock on wood*) something happens to render your car permanently undriveable, it'd be interesting to send your trans fluid off to Blackstone labs to analyse the oil.

Thanks for the reply EdBwoy!

Yes, the drivers side (left) manifold is the one that is cracked. No codes or CEL now. I was just curious if combining a "federal" manifold on a CARB vehicle would cause compatibility issues. For the transmission, it shifts perfectly fine and I have no issues. I was just considering servicing it as a preventative measure since I plan on keeping the car for a while.

You are welcome emperor.

I know certain generations of Maximas had different exhaust systems for Fed vs. California, but from what I can see online, only one manifold was offered per year for the last gen Q45: https://www.infinitipartsdeal.com/parts ... m=140_C002
For the trans, I see no problem getting it done either.

So does anyone have any ideas about the joystick issue or the ICC?

For the joystick, try blowing air into it as you move it around. At worst, replace the entire panel as instructed above.

For the cruise issue, I have to ask if you're doing it just as the owner's manual indicates.
I have no idea exactly how it works in yours but I'd have to assume it's similar to the Y50 M45. You push the ICC/cruise on-off button while at the appropriate speed, but then have to also push the decelerate/ SET part of another switch to actually engage it.
Are those the steps you have attempted?
Again, at worst, you might end up paYing a dealer diagnostic charge to point at the problem. Or try to sweet talk them to combine it with the trans fluid service.

Sorry for the belated reply.

I can confirm that I am operating the cruise control correctly. One of the cars I test drove before I bought mine had the system working. Sidenote, its incredible that these cars even had that as an option in 2002/2003. That car with the working cruise was in way worse shape than the one I bought, however. I figured the cruise not working isn't a huge deal since I don't do a whole lot of highway driving. I guess I will have to get a dealer diagnostic for the issue. I hope its just a matter of the sensor needing to be re-aimed, not an actual replacement.

For the joystick, should I remove the center panel and then blow air into it? Or with the panel on? I found an old thread regarding this issue on the Y34 and someone said they found a broken plastic ring inside, which was possibly the issue. Unfortunately that thread went dead after that so I'm assuming they resolved it by fixing that plastic? Plus, idk if the Y34 and F50 center stack had the same joystick setup or not.

Once again thanks in advance for any guidance or help.

For the transmission fluid I would just do a drain and fill. Next time your doing an oil change just drain the transmission as well. After that just pour an entire gallon jug of the red Valvoline max life multi vehicle atf down the atf dipstick tube and your good to go. That is the only acceptable equivalent to nissan matic s fluid for half the price. I did this last year after measuring the atf that was drained and found it was between 3.5- 3.75 quarts. If it's all original fluid in there I would probably do the same thing again at your next oil change as well.

Hi guys

new 03 Q45 owner, always love the look of the car.
Few questions would like to get input:
1) does the cruise control and radio control on the steering wheel light up at all? There is no way I know what I am touching when driving at night
2) I noticed there is no Infiniti logo on the rear carpet (in the middle), I think I saw some have it but not sure
3) one of my fob (original based on past owner who told me) can lock/unlock door but when put in the ignition switch, it wouldn't turn at all. Wonder what the problem is
4) center clock has burn out light, anyone know where I can get replacement blub?
5) interior light are very dim, any suggestion on how to improve?
6) main dash in the middle seems to have a few light burn out as well, any idea on how to replace them will be great.
7) called Infiniti for parts, they seems to be in the high side, engine air filter $90/cabin filter $50/front brake pads $90 (same for the rear)

Car currently has 110K miles I think this car has timing chain? any area I should look out for?

There's a lot of questions here, so let me answer infinitiemperor97's first.

1. No, it shouldn't. one of those 49 state legal exhaust manifolds on Ebay will work, and should not throw code. Those DEC rebuilt catalytic converters should be fine. Obviously, it will not pass CA smog, probably fail the visual inspection. Only source for a CARB legal exhaust manifold is the dealership or used.

2. It can be repaired, but you need to have soldering experience. the component can be repaired and contacts reflowed, but it isn't something most people are capable of. Best bet is to try to find a replacement on Ebay. BTW the 2003-2004 M45 has the same engine and center dash, so that could be another source. The joystick is just what it is, similar to a game controller joystick- it is spring loaded center and in four direction. As you move it or press, it makes contact. Those contact points get worn out (or crudded up). You cann try spraying it with contact cleaner (with it off). That might work to free gunk built up from Armor-All.

3. Not sure, I had a friend who owns a auto body shop do it for me.

4. There is way to read and clear faults: Turn ignition switch ON, and within 5 to 10 seconds, press ACCELERATE/RESUME switch 5 times. Then press COAST/SET switch 5 times to start self-diagnosis. It should flash error codes. To clear codes, During self-diagnosis mode, press CANCEL switch 5 times, and DISTANCE switch 5 times. If you still have errors, then you have a hard fault and need to fix the malfunction. Look in the ACS ICC trouble diagnosis section of the FSM for more info.

5. Yes, and there is also a filter that needs to be replaced, as well. First, check the color of the fluid. Do a spot test- and then determine how burnt the fluid looks. At almost 100k, you should at the least drain and replace the fluid. There is a drain plug on the trans fluid pan bottom, but it doesn't even come close to draining the fluid. There will be about a inch of fluid still undrained at the bottom of the pan. There is a magnet where the drain is, to attract metal particles.

Hope this helps

P.S. I have a working ICC laser sensor, if you find that yours is bad. email me at [email protected]- make me an reasonable offer.

Intermech,

1) No
2) That logo is on the rear floormat/cover, not the carpet. It runs the entire width of the car. Might be able to find one on Ebay.
3) The key fob could have a dead battery. I would start there first. Also. check the hidden emergency key and see if it will lock/unlock the doors manually. I believe it is a CR2032 cell. If the hidden key doesn't work in the door lock, then it probably isnt the key fob for the car. When you open up the key fob, there will be a wedge shaped piece of metal- looks like a piece of flint. That is the programmed chip-don't lose it.
4) You should be able to find the bulb at any auto parts store. It is a 168 bulb. I replaced mine with a white LED bulb, but put the yellow cover over it to dim it, as it was too bright.
5) It might be a bad module. Check the FSM, there should be trouble diagnosis for it. First determine if it is just the dash, or the interior.
6) I dont know. Usually pretty rare for that to happen, as most lights are LED. Check all your fuses.
7) Yes, they are expensive. But you can also find suitable replacements at your auto parts store. I had no issues using FRAM filters for air/oil/cabin air/fuel. I used Akebono pads, which are cheaper than OEM. There are better options, like K&N. Check Ebay for used parts, although they seem to be getting harder to find for the Q45.

Hope this helps

thanks for the update and info from cbird805

Most of the items I listed are not impacting the drive. Just really want to understand all the details.
Over the weekend, I just find out the car overheat in traffic/idle. Coolant seems to be at the right level but the clutch fan (cooling fan?) seems to be not engaging at full speed. It just do a slow spin as temp goes up. Not sure why or if this is the issue.

Plan to take it to a local Japanese shop for this while DIY the brake myself since part just came over the weekend

Check the fluid level in your hydraulic fan pump reservoir, it uses PS fluid. It's a odd system as it uses a hydraulic pump to drive the fan. Make sure there isn't a leak in the system. the pump could be bad, as well. The reservoir is separate from the PS. Look in the CO section of the FSM, under Cooling Fan for more detail.

Finally I was able to fix a few issues I posted earlier.

Replaced light for the clock. I got some wedge based bulb from ebay.
Replaced light on the climate control unit. I also got the same style bulb but different sizes from ebay. However, the bulb wouldn't fit so I had to retro fit using the old base. It's pretty straight forward.
With those items fixed, I feel much better driving at night.

I also had my cooling fan and water pump replaced over the weekend at Infiniti. The car was overheating when park. Cost me $1900 out of the door. Was more than I expected but I didn't feel like going to some local shops that not sure what parts they would put on or if they had work on Q45.

My last item for this week is to replace the tires and front rotor (all pads already been replaced couple weeks ago). Hope no more spending on this car

cbird805 wrote: ↑

Mon Mar 15, 2021 1:52 pm

Check the fluid level in your hydraulic fan pump reservoir, it uses PS fluid. It's a odd system as it uses a hydraulic pump to drive the fan. Make sure there isn't a leak in the system. the pump could be bad, as well. The reservoir is separate from the PS. Look in the CO section of the FSM, under Cooling Fan for more detail.

It turns out the pump was not moving the coolant and the fan motor was at fault (according to Infiniti). so $1900 out of the door

So, both the water pump and fan motor were bad? Bummer. well, at least you figured out the probelm. I would have tried to find the parts on ebay or at wrecking yard. $1900, ouch. Good thing is that the car should be problem free, at least for a while. The only other issue that I would keep an eye on is the exhaust manifolds/ catalytic converters. They are prone to cracking due to the heat cycle. If you live in California (like I do), one exhaust manifold/cat will cost over $2000 from the Infiniti, just for the part. Rebuilt 49 state ones cost $400.

FYI- if anyone needs a ICC sensor module (Intelligent Cruise Control) I have one for sale for $40. Not only is it good, but I sealed all the seams with RTV. The main reason they go bad is from water getting inside the module, since it is located at the bottom of the front grill. The module is for a Q45.

washed and waxed alongside with my LS430

intermech wrote: ↑

Wed Apr 07, 2021 5:28 pm

washed and waxed alongside with my LS430

Gorgeous!!!

After owning my 03 for close to 5 months, here is some update I want to share with the group.
My earlier post stated one of the fob wasn't working properly. I could lock/unlock doors and trunk but not to start (or turn) the car.
Took it to Infiniti and they weren't able to figure it out and the service manager told me they no longer able to order New fob.

I turned to a local FB group and find a guy who runs his own locksmith. Turned out it was missing a chip inside the fob. He was able to explain to me what's going on and showed me with his tools. After about 30 minutes and $80 later, my 2nd fob works

One issue still bugging me is the light is out again on the clock after replacing the bulb after a week. Not sure if it is a common issue.
Otherwise, car drives fine and wife has been driving it daily while I am working from home.

Have you considered swapping the clock illumination bulb with a LED bulb? It's what I did on my M45. Only down side was that it wasn't a dimmable LED bulb, so it stayed pretty bright. I ended up putting a brown plastic bulb cover over it to tone down the clock light. Not sure if they make dimmable LED bulbs that small, but I know they do make them in a variety of colors. Ebay or Amazon is a good place to find them.

cbird805 wrote: ↑

Sat Aug 14, 2021 4:57 pm

Have you considered swapping the clock illumination bulb with a LED bulb? It's what I did on my M45. Only down side was that it wasn't a dimmable LED bulb, so it stayed pretty bright. I ended up putting a brown plastic bulb cover over it to tone down the clock light. Not sure if they make dimmable LED bulbs that small, but I know they do make them in a variety of colors. Ebay or Amazon is a good place to find them.

Even finding the regular bulb for the clock is difficult for me. I tried a couple sellers and none of their bulbs fit. Maybe I will look into LED. Dimmable or not, that shouldn't be an issue for me. Kind of like what you mentioned, can always use something to cover it to get the right output

intermech wrote: ↑

Mon Mar 08, 2021 10:30 pm

Hi guys

new 03 Q45 owner, always love the look of the car.
Few questions would like to get input:
1) does the cruise control and radio control on the steering wheel light up at all? There is no way I know what I am touching when driving at night
2) I noticed there is no Infiniti logo on the rear carpet (in the middle), I think I saw some have it but not sure
3) one of my fob (original based on past owner who told me) can lock/unlock door but when put in the ignition switch, it wouldn't turn at all. Wonder what the problem is
4) center clock has burn out light, anyone know where I can get replacement blub?
5) interior light are very dim, any suggestion on how to improve?
6) main dash in the middle seems to have a few light burn out as well, any idea on how to replace them will be great.
7) called Infiniti for parts, they seems to be in the high side, engine air filter $90/cabin filter $50/front brake pads $90 (same for the rear)

Car currently has 110K miles I think this car has timing chain? any area I should look out for?

I was able to figure out #3 with the help of a local locksmith. It turned out the chip inside the keyfob was missing. That explained why I can use the key to lock/unlock but start. Locksmith help me fixed the issue.