2003 G35 Sedan Battery Drain!

[calesa903]

G35 Sedan Battery Drain: I had the audio system replaced at the dealer on 10/23/2010 @ 142,213 miles, $760 out of pocket because I purchased the vehicle used (26000 miles) diagnosis was this model year had the inherent audio system amp draw problem when the car sat for extended periods with the ignition turned off. Then at 145,061 miles, 10/08/2012, the battery is going dead again!? That's only 2,848 mile since the audio system was replaced?! I replaced the 4 year old battery (figuring this was the problem) with a new battery, a week later it was dead again, is it possible the audio system is again pulling amps after only 2,848 miles since the audio system was replaced!? A friend suggested it may be the vapor canister, has any one heard of the vapor canister pulling amps when the vehicle sits with the ignition off? I don't use the vehicle much, obviously, I drive it once in a while to keep the juices flowing, other wise I just start it every week or 10 days. Any one, PLEASE !

[telcoman]

G35 Sedan Battery Drain: I had the audio system replaced at the dealer on 10/23/2010 @ 142,213 miles, $760 out of pocket because I purchased the vehicle used (26000 miles) diagnosis was this model year had the inherent audio system amp draw problem when the car sat for extended periods with the ignition turned off. Then at 145,061 miles, 10/08/2012, the battery is going dead again!? That's only 2,848 mile since the audio system was replaced?! I replaced the 4 year old battery (figuring this was the problem) with a new battery, a week later it was dead again, is it possible the audio system is again pulling amps after only 2,848 miles since the audio system was replaced!? A friend suggested it may be the vapor canister, has any one heard of the vapor canister pulling amps when the vehicle sits with the ignition off? I don't use the vehicle much, obviously, I drive it once in a while to keep the juices flowing, other wise I just start it every week or 10 days. Any one, PLEASE !

Welcome to NICO:

I'm wondering if the problem is actually the audio system or something else.

You have a ten year old vehicle with a new battery.
Pick up a battery hydrometer and a voltmeter



With the engine off you should read 12.6 volts across the battery terminals.
Start the engine and you should read slightly over 14 volts if your alternator is working properly.

With the vehicle off check the specific gravity of each of the 6 battery cells with the hydrometer. Be careful not to get any battery acid on you. Each fully charged cell should read 1260.

With such infrequent use you may need to pick up a trickle battery charger to bring the battery up to a full charge.

Once the battery is fully charged pull the fuse for the audio system. After 10 days recheck the battery cells to see what the charge level is. It is possible you are just not using the vehicle enough to keep the battery fully charged.

Good luck

Telcoman

[audtatious]

+1

While running what charge is your alternator giving the battery?

[calesa903]

Thanks Telcoman & Audtatious:

Yes, the vehicle is 10 years + old, however, it's been babied ever since I purchased it at 26,000 and it was like new, it has had every required Mfg. service and then some. The alternator is putting 14.56 amps to the battery, the battery is a brand new Everstart Maxx 24FS (mfg by Johnson Controls, the FS is specifically for warmer climate, as I am in Florida) I contacted "Courtesy" Infiniti of Tampa, Mr. Adams, so called Service Manager, he said he would get back to me and I have not been able to get a hold of him since, won't return my voice messages, so much for "Courtesy", hell of it is I dropped over $1,600 getting the car serviced in September of 2010, @ 142,103 miles, then $760 in October 2010 @ 142,213 miles for the radio replacement, they, or Infiniti, won't got another dime from me that's for sure. Anyway, I have not heard of these audio systems going bad once they were replaced so I don't know if that's the issue or what a friend said about the possibility of the vapor canister solenoid sticking, he said he had that problem and had to replace it, doesn't sound right to me, so that's why I was asking if any one had heard of that problem, I just can not believe the audio system went bad after just 2,848 miles! Sorry for the long winded reply, guess I'm venting.

PS: Great looking coupe you got!

[audtatious]

Thanks

Are you seeing the drain via a multimeter? If so, pull the audio fuse(s) and see if the drain goes away.

[telcoman]

Calesa903

Calm down and take a deep breath

Hot and humid climates such as Florida take a toll on lead acid batteries but you have not yet confirmed a battery problem, a charging problem or something else.
With a ten year old vehicle you have to expect things/parts will begin to fail and cost money.
I reached 171796 miles on my 06 G35. It was going to need brakes with 87k miles on its first set of replacement brakes. It was beginning to leak differential fluid at the seal and it had an interrmittant ballast on the left front headlight,
Rather than spend between one and two thousand dollars to correct all of this and knowing I was on the original water pump, alternator, starter and all the other original parts, I made a decision to purchase a new 2012 G37S

It has all options including navigation and I'm very happy with it. It even gets better MPG with a more powerful engine.
Having bragging rights that you reached 200k miles is nice but it can become costly. If some Ahole goes thru a red light and you have the misfortune of having car vehicle totaled, the insurance company doesn't care how much money you just spent on a ten year old car.
They are only going to give you book value and that is if you are fully insured.

Just my $.02 to give you something to think about.

I did a quick search and it seems this is a widespread problem
http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct ... f161aa6/10


Telcoman

[calesa903]

Thanks Audtatious:

Guess I could take a voltage reading then pull the fuse to see if there is any difference in the reading, would you know where the radio fuse is located? What size is it 15 AMP, 20 AMP? Crazy thought, but, what's the chance of installing a toggle switch in the audio circuit so it can be shut off when not in use? Mount the switch under the dashboard somewhere, is that over the top? Too complicated?

Telcoman:

Yes, I am aware of all your points, and they are most certainly valid, what I failed to mention is right after I dropped $1,600 + for a major service in September 2010 (and $760 in October) a week later I was hit in the third round of layoffs from FDOT, have not been able to secure a meaningful (financially) position since, having to take yet another hit for work that was supposed to have been done really steams me. You did see where I put in a new battery (and not a cheap one), so that problem is checked off, the alternator is pushing 14.56 AMPs so that eliminates that, to me both the battery and the alternator are not part of the problem, whatever is drawing amps with the ignition off is the problem, how to determine what seems insurmountable, unless of course I take it to the dealer or some one that can perform a diagnostic profile, which I can not afford to do right now. I must apologize for how this seems to be turning in to a sob story. I do appreciate your input.

PS: Every system in the vehicle performs perfectly, there are no problems with anything , AC, radio, CD etc. etc.

[audtatious]

I believe there are three fuse boxes: Next to battery, behind battery, and inside/drivers side by your left foot when in passenger seat. They should be marked on the inner cover.

[calesa903]

OK, I opened the fuse block that is in front of the battery in the battery compartment, located the 15AMP radio fuse, I hooked up the voltmeter to the battery, was reading 12.25 volts, I pulled the radio fuse and the reading dropped to 12.24 volts! Are there other radio fuses? Obviously this circuit is not the problem.