I have a will crank but no start problem with my 2001 Sentra SE with the 2.0 liter engine. Miles = 133 K. I bought the car new. A few days ago it would not start for the first time ever. Crank but no start. Had a weak battery in it at the time. It was a mild day in the 50’s F. I started the car and moved it from the basement garage to just behind my home. It started and ran fine as was normal. I did not let it fully warm up before I shut it off. A few hours later it would not start using the same factory key that came with the car. First time I tried to start it, it cranked only. Turned the key off and tried again and it fired on maybe two or three cylinders for a very brief second. Tried a third time and again only a very brief firing on a couple of cylinders. Since then only will crank with no sign of firing.
Used an OBDII code reader and found no old codes but two pending codes P1610 and P1612. Looked these codes up and find they are for the immobilizer system. The code reader called it the NATS system. My owner’s manual calls it the NVIS system. For what it may be worth the car has never had a check engine light.
Here is a summary of what I have tried and found so far.
- Installed a new battery. The battery which was in the car at the time of the no start was weak and old.
- Used a scan tool in the OBDII port and looked for codes. No old codes at all. Two pending codes showed up P1610 and P1612.
- Pretty sure there is no spark. Tested with a timing light and pulled a sparkplug and got no spark.
- Not sure about the fuel pump as there in no fuel rail valve to hook my test gauge onto. I cannot for sure hear the fuel pump ramp up. One person, a locksmith, says he heard the pump. I took the back seat out and the floor cover off above the tank. I can touch the lines that exit the pump while I turn the key on, I have felt a vibration for a few seconds.
- Was using one of the three factory keys that came with the car. I tried some things to correct the no start.
=Tried the key on (but not all the way to crank) for five to ten seconds, then key off for five to ten seconds and repeated two times and again three times with both the old charged battery and the new battery. No luck with that. Tried all three keys.
=Undid the battery for an hour the first time and for two days later when I waited to get a new battery, no luck with that either.
=Tried locking and unlocking the doors both with all three keys and both remote key fobs. No luck there. NOTE- the key fobs will work the door locks but neither will open the trunk now. Not sure if that is a clue.
- For what it may be worth I had only an ignition key with one of the remote fobs on the key ring. My owner’s manual mentions interference but I was using the same factory key + fob that had started the car about four hours before the no start and for over 18 years before that.
-Tried leaving a key in the ignition for many hours in the off position and also for maybe ten minutes in the on position (dash lights lit up) No luck with that.
-Called a Nissan service manager about this. Will have to have it towed if I want them to check it out. They gave me the number of a local LOCKSMITH who has come by twice. First time he seemed to think the immobilizer system is not at fault. He looked at the little red security on the dash when he cranked the engine and made that opinion. He did not try any equipment the first time. He turned the key on and straight over to crank watching the red security light on the dash. It will stay off if you do it that way.
After some investigating in an online Factory Service Manual, my owner’s manual and on the web. Found that with the key on the red security light is supposed to come on if there is a problem with the IMMU/antitheft system.
- Here is what I observe about that red light when I try some things.
= The red light blinks once about every thirty (30) seconds now. I do not know how often before the trouble started but do think it was much more often. My owner’s manual states this indicator light will blink every three (3) seconds if the ignition is in lock, off or ACC position and this sounds correct about the way it blinked before.
= If I turn the key from off directly to the crank position, as the locksmith did, the red light stays off if it was already off while the engine cranks. (NOTE- this is the only way the locksmith did it.)
= If I turn the key to the on position (dash lights are on but not yet to crank) and wait about five seconds the indicator red security light comes on and stays on. If I turn the key further, without turning off, to the crank position the engine cranks and the red indicator light stays on constantly while cranking.
Called the locksmith again telling him about my observation. He came back and observed the same thing. He tried some equipment this time. A device he held near the key in the ignition and a device he plugged into the OBDII port. Apparently he did not get readings expected and maybe if I heard him correctly no readings at all. I have since learned there is a coil which surrounds the key, the IMMU I think, and it gets energized when the key is turned on and reads the chip in the key for a code. I did not know enough at the time to ask but am now guessing he was looking for the coil in the IMMU to give a reading. He left telling me he is not sure what is going on. He suggested the crankshaft position sensor may be at fault.
- Did two checks of the crankshaft position sensor. One check with the OBDII reader set it in live data mode at RPM. When I crank the engine over it reads some RPM's 350 RPM's. I think this indicates the crankshaft position sensor is working? I also pulled the crank sensor and checked the ohms. It is within the range of 166 to 204 ohms at 68 degrees F, I found in the Factory Service Manual page EC -1671
- Located and cleaned several grounds.
- Removed and checked spark plugs, distributor cap and rotor. These are not new but all have been replaced in the last 30K miles or so.
- Discovered the ignition coils and cam sensor are part of the distributor. Found some tests in the Nissan factory service manual found online and performed those I could. Did the following.
= from page EC-1617 Cleaned two grounds. Did check power supply test
= from page EC-1617 check for voltage between distributor harness connector terminal 5 and ground. Had voltage.
= from page EC-1904 checked ohms on ignition coil harness connector. Had 0.6 ohms. Manual called for0.8 ohms.
= from page EC-1904 checked secondary terminal on distributor head (secondary coil) showed 14.8K ohms. Manual calls for around 16K ohms.
= from page EC-1904 checked power transistor. Between terminal 2 and 8 got 41.6 K ohms OK
= from page EC-1904 checked distributor cap. Had 6K ohms manual showed 4K to 8K ohms.
- Checked fuses. Pretty sure all fuses are good, not sure about relays, looked at fuseable links.
= starter signal fuse (10 A) has no voltage with key off and no voltage with key on but not to crank.
- Checked NVIS IMMU things I can check
= from page EL-310 NVIS IMMU connector; check power supply circuit. With key off terminal 8 has battery voltage
= from page EL-311 NVIS IMMU connector; check IGN SW. ON signal. Key on =OK
= from page EL-311 NVIS IMMU connector 4 for continuity = OK

My dilemma at this point is the conflict between the NATS codes the car throws and the opinion of the locksmith. I can start to replace parts but understand that if the immobilizer system has cut things off, then this will be pointless.

Don't keep cranking it! The crank sensor won't cause the IMMU to malfunction, the IMMU should be activated when you first insert the key into the lock (the same switch that triggers the "key reminder" chime). If no valid key is detected, the car will crank endlessly with no spark. If you keep cranking it with a lit security lamp, there's a good chance your ECM will commit hara kiri (if it hasn't already) and need to be replaced. The problem is most likely a bad IMMU or a bad key. Try a new key first, if it won't program then suspect a bad IMMU. If it still won't program with a new IMMU, chances are you trashed your ECM.

Hello; Thanks for the reply. I have all three factory keys which came with the car. I have tried all of them. I have the plastic covers off that surround the IMMU. I had it out and took it to a dealership to see if they could test it, but they either cannot or would not. They told me I must have it towed.

Your comments about the ECM have spooked me. I do not crank for long but have cranked a number of times since the first no start. When you say try a new key, will trying one of the factory keys which was kept in the house be the same thing?

One last question. I have been trying to look up the IMMU but cannot find a place to buy one online. Is this a dealer only part?

If the keys are all doing the same thing then chances are it's a dead IMMU. There's no good way to test them out of the car, it's an inductive RFID system. Generally the older ECM's give you 7 cranks before they go lockout and then 7 more before they commit suicide. Once you get the IMMU fixed, if the lockout code won't clear then the ECM is done.

Hello; Bad news I guess as I am beyond 14 tries for sure. Guess I am learning the details too late to be of use. So my first guess at this point is somehow the weak battery must have played a role when this all begin since I was using the same factory key I had used the last decade plus. No warning lights on the dash. But I cannot say for sue about the security light on the dash. I did not notice it at the time.
The second guess is the IMMU just failed without a warning and I did not understand what the implications are and have done too much trouble shooting by now.

Thanks for the reply.

IMMU's do crap out, it's a fairly common failure. It may or may not have had some relation to the bad battery, but I tend to doubt it unless perhaps your car has very poor chassis grounding. In that case, a bad battery can cause all sorts of havoc with the electronics.

Hello; One of the things I have been doing is looking at the grounds. None have looked bad. I have unscrewed a few and cleaned them along the way. Checked and cleaned the battery terminals a couple of weeks before the no start and have taken a closer look at them since. Also have been looking for frayed or chewed wires and have not found any.
I am retired so do not drive every day but had been driving the car in the days before the no start without any problems as far as the way it ran. Never a running issue before the sudden no start. Thanks again for taking the time to try to help.

You're most welcome, sorry I couldn't give you better news. If your grounds look okay then chances are the IMMU simply died of old age.

Hello; Two updates. One is I have ordered an inexpensive test device. From the videos I have seen it is placed where the chipped key in inserted and will pick up a signal when the key is first turned on. If it gets a signal from the IMMU an LED light will flash.

Second thing I have discovered is about the key fobs. These are key fobs which are separate from the key which came with the car when new. Neither will open the trunk from outside the car while standing next to the car, but one will open the trunk if inside the car. Both fobs will lock and unlock the doors from the outside just fine. I need to check the distance. A couple of days before the no-start the fob I carried with me had worked fine to both unlock the drivers door and open the trunk from a distance of at least ten yards.

sk47 wrote: ↑

Thu Dec 31, 2020 8:27 am

Neither will open the trunk from outside the car while standing next to the car, but one will open the trunk if inside the car. Both fobs will lock and unlock the doors from the outside just fine

That sounds coincidental. The RKE receiver must be working alright if the lock/unlock buttons work fine, so either something is wrong with the trunk release or something is wrong with those particular buttons. The latter can happen, the fobs use microswitches embedded on the motherboard and they can wear out.

Hello; Could be coincidental. I worked on finding more grounds and cleaning them today. Found three more by looking over the wiring diagrams.

I wanted to se how far away I can be and have the key fobs still work. The car is is abasement garage so I can not be too far away, maybe fifteen to twenty feet. Both fobs will lock and unlock the doors just fine.
Now neither fob will open the trunk at all even inside the car.

I am about to the end of things I can check with my tools and current understanding. After the IMMU tester comes in I will likely be to the point of having it towed to a dealer.

I have been looking at online videos. Some good information on some but so many are not very good. One of my goals in addition to getting the car fixed is to learn about how the systems work. The no start is very motivating.

If it's just the trunk and it's both keys, there has to be something wrong with the trunk release circuit or actuator. Does it work using the release inside the car? Like I said, if the lock/unlock works without issues then it can't be a problem with the RKE receiver, and it's unlikely that both fobs have bad trunk buttons.

Hello; The trunk switch on the dash is working and will open the trunk. Fobs Still will lock and unlock both doors. Note - If I have not been clear the fobs are separate parts from the keys not built into the keys.

Also I was using the "valet" key in the ignition for almost all of the 18+ years I have owned the car and was using it the day of the no start. I carry one of the black keys and a fob on my belt as a backup.
I have tried the two black keys since the no start.

I understood you. They were all separate in those days, the I-keys and lollipops-with-buttons came later. I just pulled up the WD's for your trunk circuit, and the Smart Entry Control (SEC, like a primitive BCM) bypasses the normal trunk release relay and has it's own trigger wire direct to the trunk actuator. The SEC output must be going bad, that's why it works from the dash via the relay but not from the fobs via the SEC. The SEC itself may be dying and causing your no-start, it's on the CANbus and part of the NATS immobilizer system along with the ECM. The ECM communicates with the IMMU, but the SEC has to provide the "key-inserted" signal to tell the ECM to read it. However, the SEC won't show up on a regular OBD-II scanner, you need a CONSULT2, CONSULT3+, or high-end aftermarket scanner to read it. The C2 is best if your local Nissan dealer still has one that works, but not all dealers do, it's pretty much a dinosaur. But I'd strongly suggest finding something to read it, because it will probably have codes to clue you to what's going on.

Hello; Thanks again for your replies. Hope I am not becoming a pest. Here is my take so far. I have been reading about the CONSULT2 in the pages of an online Factory Service Manual and did gather that particular scanner is found at a dealer.
If I do not already have the pages on the Smart Entry Control (SEC) I will look them up and print them out. I do recall some mention of the SEC, but had not so far looked into it much.

Can I assume the chime which sounds when a key is inserted and the door is open is not the "key-inserted" signal from the SEC to the ECM? That chime does sound as normal.

May I pick your brain a bit more. I follow about the CONSULT 2 and will check to see if a local dealer still has one which operates. I will do some searches about high end aftermarket scanners to see if I can find one. If you have any suggestions as to what features to go for on an aftermarket scanner, can you let me know? I suspect the cost may be high. It may be silly but I would rather pay for tools and be able to fix a car myself if the cost is not too extreme.

I have, so far, a limited understanding of the more modern computer control systems. I am pretty much resigned to having a dealer re-set the key and other codes if the IMMU or ECM are at fault, but hope to explore as much as I can before I give up.

One more question. If I do find and get a proper scanner and the SEC is the faulty part, do you know if the key codes will have to be reset after the SEC is replaced?

Some folks here have good results with the better Foxwell scanners, they seem very capable and apparently don't cost a ton. Maybe somebody can suggest a particular model? Guys?

From what I recall, the SEC only stores the fob codes, so they'll need to be reprogrammed for sure. The ECM reads the IMMU and not the SEC, so I'm pretty sure the ignition keys should be okay if your ECM hasn't immolated itself.

Hello; Thanks again, I will look them up. I did some searches yesterday. Found and saved a couple of sites. One thing of interest is finding some NISSAN CONSULT 2 units for sale on ebay. In fact there is one listed for sale in TN about and hour and a half drive from me. Seller wants $1600 for it. I get such a purchase is not a money wise idea as the unit would have limited application. Since I have only the one old Sentra, this would not be practical. Might be like a number of other purchased tools I have used only one time or the few I have made to do a particular job.
I did find one advertised to come close to what a CONSULT unit may do and if I did read the literature correctly will work on a number of cars. Do not recall the name just now.

Hello; Went over the wiring diagrams some more today. Trying to become familiar with how to read them. A thought popped into my head. I see a number of relays. I wonder if a faulty relay can possibly be a possible cause for the codes and the no start??

No, the ECM is alive to throw the P1610/P1612 codes, so the ECM relay has to be okay. It would be throwing a host of other codes if the ignition or TC relays were bad, so those are okay too. Those 3 should be the only ones needed to start the car.

Hello; Thought I would update the progress so far. Still no start. I have been doing checks of things such as looking at the wires and connectors and cleaning grounds. From a Factory service manual online and have printed out a lot of pages. Been doing some checks I can manage.

I have the plastic covers off from around the steering column exposing the key mechanism. There is a part of the antitheft system called the IMMU. It is a coil of wire which acts as an antenna and is attached to a small box which apparently has electronic bits inside. My ignition key has a chip and when the key is turned on the antenna coil somehow generates a signal to the chip in the key and reads a code in the key. I bought a tool which is supposed to read that signal.

The tool is an ECU Induction Coil Signal Detection Card, Model: AKS-CARD-ECU from American Key Supply. It is a small card with a hole in the middle surrounded by a circle of wires and a small light bulb. The idea is to hold the card where the key inserts and turn the key on. The signal is supposed to light up the card's small light.
So far I cannot get it to light up on the Sentra. It also does not light up on some other cars it has been tried on. A Honda civic. A Toyota. A ford pickup and a Chevy pickup. I guess it could be those other vehicles do not have the same sort of system.

I tried to test the card tool by holding it close to an electric motor when I turned it on. Got a weak (dim)flash that way. So I tried the Sentra again with little light around, but no luck.

Hello; A shorter question. About the crankshaft position sensor. I saw a video where the tach on the dash ought to show some RPM's when cranking even if the engine will not start. I tried to watch my tach today as the engine cranked. I could not see any movement of the needle. I do not know if this means anything, so am asking.

To recap, I pulled the crank sensor and checked for resistance with an OHM meter. It was within specs. With my OBDII I saw RPM's when cranking with the OBDII in live data mode and set at RPM's. I have been taking these two outcomes to indicate the crank sensor is still good so have not replaced it yet. Any thoughts???

Many Nissan tachos won't read anything while cranking, only after the engine starts. The fact that the ECM is seeing RPM is meaningful, since most Nissan ECM's get their RPM data exclusively from the CKP. So yes, that probably means your CKP is working properly.

Hello; I have been keeping notes of what I find and do and will paste them below. I am out of ideas after the last tool (the detection card) finally came in Saturday. My best current guess is the IMMU unit with the circular antenna is most likely failed.
Just to see if my thinking is on track. I gather there are four or five possibilities. The ECM is faulty; the IMMU is faulty; There is some sort of bad wire or connection; the key I used at the time of the no start went bad and last the weak battery somehow triggered the immobilizer system to shut down without any components actually being faulty.

I have found replacement parts online which will cost much less that at a dealer. But I will be guessing about the IMMU for example and the components will still have to be coded at a dealer.

I found a Consult II for sale but it is my understanding I cannot program parts and keys without the codes.

Sudden no start with no prior problems or warnings.
- Only two codes = pending codes P1610 and P1612. No old codes at all
- Had weak battery at time of first no start. Have replaced with new battery.
- Was using the same factory key that had been in use for many years and came with the car new.
- Red security light will come on and stay on with key on. (see notes below for details)
- Red security light now flashes every thirty seconds with key off. Manual says it should flash about at 3 seconds
- If I lock the driver’s door with a key having the windows up, hood and trunk closed the red security light comes on for thirty seconds then goes off as it is supposed to. After that it flashes once approximately every 30 seconds or so.
-Bought an ECU Induction Coil Signal Detection Card type tool. Placed where the ignition key is inserted It is supposed to read the signal from the IMMU when the key is turned on. I get no flash from the card tool.

Have a will crank but no start problem with 2001 Sentra SE with the 2.0-liter engine. Miles = 133 K. Bought the car new. On December 10, 2020 it would not start for the first time ever. Crank but no start. Had a weak battery in it at the time. It was a mild day in the 50’s F. I started the car and moved it from the basement garage to just behind my home. It started and ran fine as was normal. I did not let it fully warm up before I shut it off. A few hours later it would not start using the same factory key (valet key) that came with the car when new. First time I tried to start it, it cranked only. Turned the key off and tried again and it fired on maybe two or three cylinders for a very brief second. Tried a third time and again only a very brief firing on a couple of cylinders. Since then only will crank with no sign of firing.

-Used an OBDII code reader. Found no old codes. Found two pending codes P1610 (IMMU or ECM is malfunctioning) and P1612 (communication impossible between ECM and IMMU). Looked these codes up and find they are for the immobilizer system. The code reader called it the NATS system. My owner’s manual calls it the NVIS system. For what it may be worth the car has never had a check engine light before or even now.

Summary of what I have tried and found so far.
- Installed a new battery. The battery which was in the car at the time of the no start was weak and old.
- Pretty sure there is no spark. Tested with a timing light and pulled a sparkplug and got no spark.
- Not sure about the fuel pump as there in no fuel rail valve to hook my test gauge onto. I cannot for sure hear the fuel pump ramp up. One person, a locksmith, says he heard the pump. I took the back seat out and the floor cover off above the tank. I can touch the lines that exit the pump while I turn the key on, I have felt a vibration for a few seconds.
- Was using one of the three factory keys that came with the car, the valet key, when the no start happened. The same key I have been using for years.
=Tried with key on (but not all the way to crank) for five to ten seconds, then key off for five to ten seconds and repeated two times and again three times with both the old charged battery and the new battery. No luck.
Tried all three keys.
=Undid the battery for an hour the first time and for two days later when I waited to get a new battery, no luck with that either.
=Tried locking and unlocking the doors both with all three keys and both remote key fobs. NOTE- the key fobs will work the door locks properly. Only one fob will open the trunk sometimes, but not all the time, and it has to be used inside the car when it does open the trunk. Not sure if that is a clue but it is a new symptom, the key fob had been opening the trunk just a few days before. The trunk will open with the button the dash and with a black key.
- Had only an ignition key with one of the remote fobs on the key ring. My owner’s manual mentions interference but I was using the same factory key + fob that had started the car about four hours before the no start and for over 18 years before that.
-Tried leaving a key in the ignition for many hours in the off position and also for maybe ten minutes in the on position (dash lights lit up)
-a local LOCKSMITH has come by twice. First time he seemed to think the immobilizer system is not at fault by looking at the little red security on the dash when he cranked the engine and the light did not come on. He turned the key on and straight over to crank watching the red security light on the dash. It will stay off if you do it that way. After some reading found that with the key on the red security light is supposed to come on steady if there is a problem with the IMMU/antitheft system. What I observe about that red light follows.
= The red light blinks once about every thirty (30) seconds now. Owner’s manual states this indicator light should blink every three (3) seconds if the ignition is in lock, off or ACC position and this sounds correct about the way it blinked before.
= If, as the locksmith did the first time, I turn the key from off directly to the crank position the red light stays off if it was already off while the engine cranks.
= If I turn the key to the on position (dash lights are on but not yet to crank) and wait about five seconds the indicator red security light comes on and stays on. If I turn the key further to the crank position the engine cranks and the red indicator light stays on constantly while cranking.
Locksmith came back and he observed the same thing. He tried some equipment this time. A device he held near the key in the ignition and a device he plugged into the OBDII port. Apparently he did not get readings expected and maybe if I heard him correctly no readings at all.
I have since learned there is a coil which surrounds the key, the IMMU I think, and it gets energized when the key is turned on and reads the chip in the key for a code. I did not know enough at the time to ask but am now guessing the locksmith was looking for the coil in the IMMU to give a reading. He left telling me he is not sure what is going on. He suggested the crankshaft position sensor may be at fault.

- Did two checks of the crankshaft position sensor. One check with the OBDII reader set it in live data mode at RPM. When I crank the engine over it reads some RPM's 350 RPM's. I think this indicates the crankshaft position sensor is working? I also pulled the crank sensor and checked the ohms. It is within the range of 166 to 204 ohms at 68 degrees F, I found in the Factory Service Manual page EC -1671
- Located and cleaned several grounds.
- Removed and checked spark plugs, distributor cap and rotor. These are not new but all have been replaced in the last 30K miles or so.
- Discovered the ignition coils and cam sensor are part of the distributor. Found some tests in the Nissan factory service manual found online and performed those I could. Did the following.
= from page EC-1617 Cleaned two grounds. Did check power supply test
= from page EC-1617 check for voltage between distributor harness connector terminal 5 and ground. Had voltage.
= from page EC-1904 checked ohms on ignition coil harness connector. Had 0.6 ohms. Manual called for0.8 ohms.
= from page EC-1904 checked secondary terminal on distributor head (secondary coil) showed 14.8K ohms. Manual calls for around 16K ohms.
= from page EC-1904 checked power transistor. Between terminal 2 and 8 got 41.6 K ohms OK
= from page EC-1904 checked distributor cap. Had 6K ohms manual showed 4K to 8K ohms.
- Checked fuses. Pretty sure all fuses are good, not sure about relays, looked at fusible links.
= starter signal fuse (10 A) has no voltage with key off and no voltage with key on but not to crank. I cannot be in position to check when cranking.
- NVIS IMMU things I can check
= from page EL-310 NVIS IMMU connector; check power supply circuit. With key off terminal 8 has battery voltage
= from page EL-311 NVIS IMMU connector; check IGN SW. ON signal. Key on =OK
= from page EL-311 NVIS IMMU connector 4 for continuity = OK
= bought a tool. An ECU Induction Coil Signal Detection Card. Placed where the ignition key is inserted It is supposed to read the signal from the IMMU when the key is turned on. I get no flash from the card tool.

My dilemma at this point is the conflict between the NATS codes the car throws and the opinion of the locksmith. I can start to replace parts but understand that if the immobilizer system has cut things off, then this will be pointless.



From Forum source - If the keys are all doing the same thing then chances are it's a dead IMMU. There's no good way to test them out of the car, it's an inductive RFID system. Generally, the older ECM's give you 7 cranks before they go lockout and then 7 more before they commit suicide. Once you get the IMMU fixed, if the lockout code won't clear then the ECM is done.

IMMU's fail. Not frequently, but it isn't like it's unusual for one to die on a ride that old.

Hello; Guess I will have to go to a dealer. Thanks for the replies.

Hello; During my online searches I ran across a thread. Took me a while to go back and find it. Did find it today. I will include a link. This thread is why I asked about the relay for the ECM a while back. This seems to have fixed the OP's car.

The main reason I decided to bring it up here is to see if the procedure described in post #4 to #7 seem plausible. The idea seems to be to replace the ECM in a 2001 Sentra with one from a 1999 ECM. If I read this correctly the immobilizer system will be cut out.
A big drawback for me is that apparently some of the functions are different between the ECM's and some changes would have to be made. I could likely do the changes with detailed instructions, but not confident I could decipher the wiring diagrams on my own.

On a slightly different thought, I have found online site advertising IMMU and ECM for sale. Probably at lower cost than a dealer. One thing I did note is for a 2001 Sentra with the 2.0 liter they list a ECM's for both a car with a security system and one for a car without a security system with a manual transmission. In fact there are two similar listings of ECM's for automatic transmissions. They cost just under $500. I know it would be too simple to buy an ECM for a car without a security system and just plug it in.

Called a dealer Monday. I asked if I could either talk to someone with experience of the immobilizer system or just e-mail my notes about my car's problem to get an opinion. The guy on the phone allowed as how that would be using a technician's time for free. I offered to pay for the time but they did not get back to me.

Reminded of a recent dealing with my satellite TV company. Early in December I called to negociate a discount for their TV service. I eventually did get an extension of a discount for another year. The first guy I spoke to could not help me but did offer me free HBO for three months. I said it was not what I called for but that would be OK since it was to be free. Well my bill came this past Monday with an $11.99 charge for HBO.
So I called again asking why the charge. Was told the charge is because I called in mid bill cycle. I pointed out that the guy did not mention this and had volunteered the HBO free for three months. That I had not asked for HBO in the first place. She told me it will be free for the next two months. I ask her to let her bosses know what happened. I did not fuss too much as they did continue a $40 discount on my bill for a year and the lady is not the one who needed to be fussed at.

https://www.nissanclub.com/threads/nvis ... st-5650365

Hello; Here is the link. Forgot to add it to the last post.

Hi. Since you are getting pretty good with this car, you can use an intake manifold from a 1994 to 1999 sr20. Low port non roller rocker In Infiniti g20 and sentras. And use the ecu from that motor. You will have to switch the harness connector or use the whole harness from the donor vehicle also to connect to that ecu. It will forever rid the vehicle of the ivis or nats. You will also pickup quite a bit of torque from the intake. So it will feel more aggressive. You can try to post on g20.net for help also. Those guys over there are pretty solid individuals who know their s*** inside and around these vehicles. Then you can get on to dropping in the turbo because I see you have caught the bug for this car to be able to fix it. It only gets better from here on out my friend. Hope to see you on g20.net. good luck. You can use the ecu from 94 to 96 . 99 I thinks uses ivis nats. 25$ ecu if you are auto.
Also check out carpart.com app in play store
https://www.g20.net/threads/how-to-inst ... rr.133202/

1 more thing the idle on your throttle could short out. Ultimately frying the ecu inside. You can bypass the coolant that goes through it to avoid this catastrophic failure and shifty design that Nissan used in that motor.

If you need help with wiring I am here to help. I have done plenty these swaps