2001 qx4 will not stay running

Post by **Tacoma96** » Tue Dec 31, 2019 8:19 am

yeah www.ModuleRepairPro.com..am i allowed to share websites? etc..I rarely use blogs etc and NO i do not work for them nor are affiliate etc..I'm in PA actually. yeah 5911 Lemona Ave, Van Nuys, CA 91411 off their brochure..I did try an ebay outfit, ie they all do the same (pretty much) electronics repairs etc since the electronic issues on older cars can be fixed and repaired for a cost etc, my opinion from own research, BUT its having the correct ECM module CORE for the parts needed etc. I'm no avionic/electronics "student" in any way mind you, but again the first ebay outfit I tried returned my ECM and said irreparable,..after a week of daily/evening ebay and junkyard online searches for a matching 2001.5 yr ECM I made a phone call to an outfit and thus they explained exactly what/how they address the IACV ECM issue and that they needed a core for the internals etc..ie the matching MONTH RANGE of the production yr of the car..as the Pathfinders were in an
"in-between" designs per se with the cars, engines and ECM etc..its the "economics of the assembly line"..

Post by **Tacoma96** » Tue Jan 07, 2020 11:11 am

Any luck with your Path? I actually experienced the idle air control valve issue that burned up the ECM resistor..I even had a "local yocal" small town mech try to fix this..useless and wasted $$$!! It would take the re-learn procedure after using an aftermarket IACV..from reading multiple sites I realized/learned that when any issue on these Nissan's returns YOU HAVE TO USE DEALER OEM NISSAN PARTS..countless times i've read from dealer mech's blogs etc and justask or just repair there's ALWAYS A CIRCLE of posts/replies..the FIX EA AND EVERY TIME after using 3-4 replacement parts...USE GENUINE NISSAN..I used an $$$-Nissan IACV..fixed it! Literally i can quote blogs saying the same regarding an OEM IACV too..Didnt even have to do a re-learn procedure either...That's also part of the "issue" w/ replacing the same parts as they dont last very long..any aftermarket part is cheaper..subpar..vs OEM..ie im in a small town of eh..8G pop..there's a NAPA, Advance Auto, AutoZone, and an O'reily going in by spring..$$$..

Post by **EBiN5446** » Wed Jan 22, 2020 12:54 pm

So I received my ECM back repaired and after checking working at the IACV and tps and other sensors I still get nothing. Anyone have any thoughts on next step aside from crushing or rehoming to the ocean?

Post by **born2lse** » Thu Jan 23, 2020 9:24 pm

Does it crank but doesn't turn over or no crank at all?

Check the eccs1 guess again to confirm it didn't blow again.

Post by **Tacoma96** » Fri Jan 24, 2020 8:49 am

Just to throw this out there as it worked for me after going thru a IACV that also wiped out the ECM and had blown fuse several times...and you know "guuys" after over a yrs time on/off figuring out the pathy's idling issues..an up and down osclilating rpms and it wouldnt take the idle re-learn procedure...and from reading endless post after posts...think about why there's always autozone's, advance, NAPA, o'rileys' etc.."people..us, them ..you and I " are conditioned to buy/not buy dealers OEM parts cause their $$$...so the common fix AFTER "humans" having replaced a non-oem part several times, ie something from any auto-parts store several times over a few months or "..car is a POS..changes the starter three times etc"..or any sensor...the OEM parts fixes it..for ME AFTER R/R the IACV..the DEALER OEM FIXED IT..AFTER IT HAD BEEN THRU A SHOP AND I USED AFTERMARKET..i didnt have to even to an idle re-learn...listen to what the dealer mech's say on forums..this years of '01-03' range nissans NEED OEM PARTS...ever heard of the "tater tot price point", the history of tater tots...not all cars..mind you..but when's the laaaast time anyone ever bought a part from a dealer and why!?..
I'm finishing the dual head gasket job, motor pulled etc and all on my '01 5spd manual 3.5..i got lucky..has the metal valve covers and no power valves etc..kinda have to look at "what you havent done..."
Airplane mech..yes the small ones, the turboprops, the regional jets and the Airbus's...yes we "quarantine" part..like uber $$$$ computers and sensor for a few flight cycles to verify the part fixing the ECM/FADEC recognizing the symptoms and failures...just another conumdrum of parts and vendors etc..MOOG you say...!?
(something to consider ....) ANd YES I've relied and survived fixing and figuring out mt Pathy from this site..always always learning...

Post by **Tacoma96** » Fri Jan 24, 2020 8:53 am

FYI my 01' at 154,000 miles..both head gaskets shot and the oil gallery gaskets were bad as well, their "kinda F-critical"..got them off a 350Z performance site as well as the timing chain case o-rings etc..Good Luck!

Post by **EBiN5446** » Fri Jan 24, 2020 9:51 am

All fuse's are good. It has turned over twice, not consecutively, but dies like before. Could anyone point me to a good write up on the tps adjustment so I can verify if I installed mine correctly?

Post by **Tacoma96** » Sat Jan 25, 2020 2:41 pm

when I had the near exact same issue..mine didnt die, nor stop running..it would repeatedly blow the same fuse etc related to the IACV, this was over a yr ago, I'm currently cleaning the surfaces of the timing case covers while doing the head gaskets etc on same 01 Pathfinder, so i had bought and replaced an after market IACV then....per blogs and justask.com etc the site that post questions regarding car issues and cert mechanics provide answers..THE DEALER MECHANICS TIME AND TIME AGAIN.."....' THAT NISSAN HAS TO HAVE OEM PARTS, ..I i purchased an OEM Nissan IACV and it immediately fixed it..there are numerous exact same cases on blogs and such where people '.....' fixed it...just my personal experience with my own car..and I used a multi meter step by step on everything everywhere verifying everything else was working properly..it the computer software and CONSULT program send out a 5V signal reading whats going on, I did that with the FSM from this site going in circles and circles until I read about using an OEM IACV....I'm NOT saying to USE OEM all the time, but in some cases you have to and or it's advisable as I've learned as the IACV is a common and known issue on these particular yr pathfinders..I only check my account here now and then but keep us posted! Just wanna help w/ my own, not 2-cents, but what worked for me..

Post by **Tacoma96** » Sat Jan 25, 2020 2:43 pm

I'm actually taking a break from working on mine today/now coffee break etc, this evening I'll read thru your entire post to see what I can deduce from my experience etc, I"m not an auto mech, only personal experience with older cars over the yrs.

Post by **Tacoma96** » Sat Jan 25, 2020 2:57 pm

For example..if you have a current insp sticker oh you cant drive it..have it towed, insurance typically covers the cost, tow her to a modern shop that will do a diagnostic and pay the $150 beans and go with what codes they tell you per the CONSULT print out..I did that 2x..codes all over the place..cause of the juust starting failure of the head gaskets..I could "see" something funny going on as I'd have noticeable high gas milage and using a $15 thermo infared temp gun, that one side of engine was way hotter than the other side, yet still not overheating etc..yes the consumer available code readers only show you a wee window of codes and what they mean. I worked a 2 yr stint at a modern collision auto body shop..with out those uber expensive snap on portable reader and diagnostics AND TRAINED TO USE THEM, a shout out to the auto technicians! we're clueless etc ,..its jusst the way the business is man and with an older car..gotta go old school streetwise and roll up the sleeves and figure her out..watch youtube, there's freelance auto-techs that use those snap on diag. equipment for troubleshooting things..ie a maxima electronic engine mount shorting out the ECM while driving etc..the disg. shows the voltage jumping depending on the rpm etc..id BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO BLOW YOUR ECM AGAIN..the IACV sends a bad signal, to high a voltage, to the ECM as it normally does and .."puff"..i've read that scenario numerous times with after market IACV's.."..." i bought two IACV's then finally went with an OEM then it fixed it, or same scenario and the aftermarket IACV would work for say 3 months or 6 months and delaer or shop quoted $$$$ repairs..guy gets an OEM IACV..fixed and never failed since..on the Pathfinders R50 3.5 etc..and consider it this way..its a process of elimination too..worth gold when trouble shooting..its the only way...

Post by **EBiN5446** » Sat Jan 25, 2020 3:10 pm

I hear ya, I suppose I may should try the oem IACV before she gets crushed. Link to best vendor? Sorry if it's posted above. Will any thing else need to be OEM besides the IACV?

Post by **EBiN5446** » Sat Jan 25, 2020 4:07 pm

23781-4w002 is the OEM p/n can anyone confirm?

Post by **Tacoma96** » Sun Jan 26, 2020 9:16 am

as long as the part pic and description shows and says "OEM NISSAN" I use nissanpartsdeal dot com, they also have parts diagram break down too, even ebay has listings directly from these OEM sites as well..I also got a $$$ ($300.00) rear proportioning valve, the valve block that sits ontop of the rear axle..1) there are no after market RPV 2) lines rusted out 3) EVERYBODY AND EVERYBODY hi miles or not..it's gonna leak from the plunger seal, as its under the car exposed to the elements AND ITS GONNA LEAK thus when it does you have no breaks ..yes if you're lifting the path etc as it raises the body and suspension height it disables it, ie how it works from the rear axle and body moving it determines/proportions the rear brake psi etc..SO,..has four dealer mechanics not know, figure out, nor determine the IACV and the ECM connection NOR a bad head gasket either..mine had sat a year out in the middle PA AFTER it figured out and IACV/ECM system directly from the advice off this site...knowledge is power..I'm not doing a restore nor a mud truck, but got involved with parts here and there with a solid body and frame 2001.5 mid yr engine...and kept going to create a 4x4 manual 5spd reliable vehicle..of which I've previously riddin in numerous times as I know the prev owner, we'd tear thru snowmobile trials in the winter w'/ few feet of snow..why not!?..

Post by **Tacoma96** » Sun Jan 26, 2020 9:20 am

I already R/R front and rear shocks and struts, springs etc..yeah the rear sags..the last thing to do is use the
Airlift 1000 for the rear soft springs..without $$$ on the only aftermarket suspension that fits as a daily driver with weekend trips..

Post by **EBiN5446** » Sun Jan 26, 2020 1:58 pm

Tacoma96 are you looking to get another? I'll give you a good OEM price

Post by **Tacoma96** » Sun Jan 26, 2020 4:57 pm

maybe in the future for sure..but my next project is gonna be a ducati 996 or the 748 big bore mod etc..but like a yr out..I dont need garage to a motorcycle engine..that's what the kitchen is for.."wink"..I' dont have a garage etc..

Post by **Tacoma96** » Sun Jan 26, 2020 4:58 pm

EBiN5446..missed what your offering etc..part..I've already got-$ anything so far..

Post by **Tacoma96** » Sun Jan 26, 2020 5:01 pm

ie all I need NOW is an airlift 1000, i'm replying to posts under another topic, i apologize for the confusion etc..
oh and Ive noticed there is a 1/4in hole already in the center of the rear springs base on the rear end, per the airlift 1000 site- instructions say to drill 3/4 in hole on the spring base for the bottom of the airbag and the air hose..any tips?

Post by **Tacoma96** » Sun Jan 26, 2020 5:06 pm

uh..the directions for posting pics here are years old...is it still possible!?

Post by **Tacoma96** » Sun Jan 26, 2020 6:54 pm

: oil gallery gaskets

Post by **Tacoma96** » Sun Jan 26, 2020 6:58 pm

: oil gallery gaskets; B66F1617-F8EF-462D-B469-FB7A0BC78C77.jpeg (38.73 KiB) Viewed 2293 times

Post by **Tacoma96** » Sun Jan 26, 2020 7:03 pm

: 0E05C022-1ED2-4D5E-94D0-B30C3C885227.jpeg (37.47 KiB) Viewed 2286 times

Post by **Tacoma96** » Sun Jan 26, 2020 7:08 pm

: cleaning RTV; 51CFB136-CF14-4883-A37B-D6653EDF0D8E.jpeg (35.72 KiB) Viewed 2281 times

Post by **Tacoma96** » Sun Jan 26, 2020 7:12 pm

: flat spotted crank pulley, Haynes Book chain strap method; 04802F20-8859-4FB9-8B2A-0C1FFE68D7CE.png (102.09 KiB) Viewed 2276 times

Post by **Tacoma96** » Sun Jan 26, 2020 7:22 pm

: insides; 20D6857F-5559-4A54-AABF-2D33E4481059.jpeg (37.51 KiB) Viewed 2265 times

Post by **Tacoma96** » Sun Jan 26, 2020 7:24 pm

: oil gallery gaskets info

Post by **Tacoma96** » Sun Jan 26, 2020 8:24 pm

for the intermittent running issue...don't forget a weak or clogged fuel pump i.e. fuel psi...an old car will have an old gas tank too..even a clogged fuel filter can have the same effect as well..buuut eventually your gonna need a new IACV anyways!!!-as in its a KNOWN ISSUE with these R50 models ..

Post by **EBiN5446** » Mon Jan 27, 2020 9:59 am

Tacoma96 I was just aiming for an easy out. Plus not sure but looks like many of your post are populating here. Ordered the OEM IACV maybe it will be the saving grace

Post by **Tacoma96** » Mon Jan 27, 2020 11:17 am

considering the flat spot I created on the crank pulley and a new one is $150 plus, OEM ..I'm stuck as to whether to replace it or file the flat spot out ?! Any experienced advice will be greatly appreciated

Post by **Tacoma96** » Mon Jan 27, 2020 11:18 am

EBiN5446...agree..

2001 qx4 will not stay running

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