2001 G20 struts question ... what to get as replacement?

[szh]

I searched but did not see an answer to this question, so please bear with me if this is an "already asked and answered" question.

One of my colleagues has a 2001 G20 (T model, as I recall, with a Manual transmission) and needs to replace his shocks/struts. He does not like the OEM ones since he thinks that they are a bit too soft - he'd like something sportier/stiffer to get less body lean.

What brand/model would people recommend he get for his car?

Z

[RED_DET]

KYB AGX adjustables with tein springs.

[szh]

Okay ... he does not want to change his springs out. Any other possibilities for the shocks/struts?

Z

[RED_DET]

Then just use the kyb GR-2's if he isn't going to use lowering springs.

[szh]

Then just use the kyb GR-2's if he isn't going to use lowering springs.

Thanks, Michael! I'll let him know.

Z

[SER96VET]

KYB GR2's are just a factory replacement and will most likely ride the same as his stockers. It could be the stockers are blown? How many miles are on his car? I would recommend the KYB AGX's since they are adjustable (dampening) and are the same size (not shortened) as the stocks. Eventually if he decides to throw on some lowering springs he can still use the same struts. just my $.02.

[szh]

KYB GR2's are just a factory replacement and will most likely ride the same as his stockers.

Ah! Okay.

It could be the stockers are blown? How many miles are on his car?

Normal use, I'd think, so I don't think they are blown. He has had the car six years and it is over 75k miles (I think). Time for shock change anyway, I'd think, given that it has this many miles on it!

I would recommend the KYB AGX's since they are adjustable (dampening) and are the same size (not shortened) as the stocks. Eventually if he decides to throw on some lowering springs he can still use the same struts. just my $.02.

Okay, I'll mention that too.

Thanks, guys!

Z

[Suitor]

The Strut isse: Here I found this: http://consumerguideauto.howst...2.htm

Trouble SpotsConsumer Guide's® Auto Editors have scoured repair bulletins and questioned mechanics to search for commonly occurring problems for a particular vehicle. In some cases we also give possible manufacturer-suggested solutions. In many instances these trouble spots are Technical Service Bulletins posted by the manufacturer, however, we have our own expert looking at additional vehicle problems.

Coolant leak: The expansion plug on the right-side intake manifold may leak coolant requiring installation of a revised manifold. (1999)

Fuel odors: A rotten-egg odor from the exhaust may require reprogramming of the engine-control module. (2000)

Poor transmission shift: The key may be difficult to remove and/or the shifter may be hard to move from park due to a bent spring in the shift-lever mechanism. (1999)

Poor transmission shift: Unless the transmission cooler is thoroughly cleaned following a transmission repair, the newly serviced unit will likely soon fail. (1999-2002)

Power seats: The power seat may not move fore and aft because the drive cable breaks. (1999-2001)

Starter: Starter may grind, particularly when cold, due to loss of lubrication. Replacement starters have high-temperature grease. (1999-2000)

Vehicle noise: A clunk from the rear of the car when driving over speed bumps or curb cuts (when the back seat and trunk are empty) is fixed by installing revised springs and shock absorbers. (1998-2000) Windows: Windows may stick and make a popping noise if not used for more than a day due to problems with the rubber window guides that must be replaced. (1999)

Consumer Guide® Estimated Repair CostsThis table lists costs of likely repairs for comparison with other vehicles. The dollar amount includes the cost of the part(s) and labor (based on $50 per hour) for the typical repair without extras or add-ons. Like the pricing information, replacement costs can vary widely depending on region. Expect charges at a new-car dealership to be slightly higher.