I just bought a couple sections of bends (2.25") and am cutting them and welding. I bought a 45 degree and a 180 degree J bend. All .063" wall 6061-t6 AL. I also cut the stock Greddy hotpipe that goes from the core to the fender so I can rotate it to come out the side of the frame rail instead of up through the fender. I'm also using a 2" to 2.25" 45 degree coupler off the turbo and either a 45 degree or straight 2.25" coupler to go between the modified greddy pipe and my custom hot pipe. After I get them made, I might model them and put them into a drawing and see if I can get them made via CNC Mandrel Bending to cut out the welds.idahotuner wrote:hay want to make two of those hot pipe i will buy one from you, i have been searching and searching and trying to figure out what pieces to buy or how to run them for a hot pipe to connect into my greddy ls intercooler and haven't really found anything
also your turbo lout let pipe does it clear the steering shaft and the crank case vent pipe easily
I made all of my own lines except the oil feed line. It's super easy, lol. I got my supplies from Summit racing, and you really don't need the "special tools" and what not.idahotuner wrote:oh and what turbo lines and oil return did you go with
Sweet deal! Off the top of my head (all -6 an stuff), 3 swivel 90 degree fittings, one straight fitting, hose, and a swivel extension for the block side coolant port. I also ran an S14 Coolant pipe (the one that goes under the CAS) so I can run a coolant line there, and I cut off the wrap around pipe that goes behind the head. Now both my heater hoses are the same and fit correctly. No more 180 crap behind the head, ha ha.idahotuner wrote:well i found a welding shop that i am going get to help fab some intercooler piping. do you have a a list of the parts that u got for making the lines your self
idahotuner wrote:Yeah I would like to get rid of that collant bend also. So even,the oil return line was -6 an into the block.
Stock fuel rail, Tomei Sdj FPR, Tomei/Nismo 740CC injectors (going to limit power, I know, lol), Walbro 255 pump. Going to rewire the fuel pump soon due to the crap wiring from the factory. Next year, I'm planning on a fuel cell, top feed rail with larger injectors. Also going dry sump next year, with my own design engine mounts to set the motor further back and lower than it currently is (as much as I can without being set for failure, lol).idahotuner wrote:awe, yeah well i am forking out for some parts lol. mazworx turbo lines and a second down pipe lol,just got to sell some stuff i have. to make up for it. lol trying to get the car to walla walla for a dyno before it snows. whats your fuel set up again
I haven't done too much looking into it yet, but basically what my plan is; is to wire in a cable directly from battery, operated by a relay with the ignition signal wire, to the pump. So basically what you have in mind, ha ha. I'm also going to relocate my battery eventually to the rear just before the rear "axle".idahotuner wrote:yeah i am going to re wire my fuel pump here to, just waiting for my 2nd pump to come in and i will do them at the same time. you know what wires and stuff for hardwiring, i have been reading all over about them, mostly think i will by pas the plug and use the signal wire going to a new relay straight from the battery then use the same signal wire going to a 2nd relay for my 2nd fuel pump
Awesome! lol. I just have a miata battery currently in front. However, I'd like the weight to be more rearward for weight balance reasons.idahotuner wrote:I was going relocate mine to, but then I got an xray machine battery, thing has some cranking amps, for free. When they replace one them they have to replace all of them. and it fits perfectly on the battery,tray with th we intercooler piping.
Lol, I'm talking about the downpipe, not the turbo elbow that Full-Race calls a DP. Also, for the money and fitment, the Full-Race "Downpipe" isn't that great. The o2 bungs are in crap locations (the lower two), causing the sensors to be VERY close to rubbing on something no matter how you orient it.idahotuner wrote:what!!! i would have bought yours from you but i just ordered one from fulrace
idahotuner wrote:awe, well bungs i can relocate
It's all about money for me, lol. I have all the parts I need already, just need to save the money for the tune. I know I still have work to do before everything is ready to get tuned, but it'll be done before I have the money to tune it! Things keep coming up that I have to spend my car fund on. Just recently is $350 for a vet bill for the cat...idahotuner wrote:yeah kinda sucks huh. i have one sitting here that i think i could have gotten to work by just welding a vband fitting onto it, but i didnt want to spend the money for the fitting and then have it welded and then have it not work. so when will your car be going again, i sent out for my tune today, so just waiting on that and my down pipe, then its like one huge puzzle lol
Using a v1 AEM EMS (speed density).idahotuner wrote:What are u using to tune it. I figured I will run an Enthalpy tune for now. And then drive it some where for a Dyno tune using either arm or pfc
Portland, lol. There are plenty of shops to choose from for tuning here. I'm leaning towards Forged Performance for my tune now. I was going to do Portland Speed Industries, but have lived here long enough to hear "things" about them that make me choose otherwise. Forged has an AWD Mustang Dyno as well, so I can use them later on for my Celica Alltrac, ha ha. I also prefer mustang dynos.idahotuner wrote:Were do you go to get that tuned? I am only going run an Enthalpy tune to get my car to a shop were I can get it tuned.
Nice! Let him know to sing up on 3SGTE.net! lol. I hate to admit it, but the 3SGTE sounds a lot nicer than an SR20DET. At least in stock form with just an exhaust.idahotuner wrote:lol my budy is building an alltrac, there is an awd dyno in walla walla but no one to tune, so maybe next spring i will have to go down there to portland for a tune.