OK, so a few more bits and pieces finished. I installed the B15 clutch master cylander, clutch pedal and B13 M/T brake pedal. Its not completely finished but its all in there. The brake pedal is straight forward but the clutch pedal, well, it took a bit more work. First off, this was an automatic car, so there is no hole for the clutch master cylander. Secondly, the B13 clutch pedal is for a cable style clutch operation, while the B15 is hydrualic. Third, the upper pedal mount is located to the side of the clutch pedal bracket. On an auto car, the upper mount holds the shift solenoid control unit.

So, basically, I worked with what I had. I could have welded a tap to the side of the clutch pedal bracket and yada yada yada, but instead, I simply bent the top of the pedal bracket to fit flush with the body and drilled a hole to pass a bolt through. The bolt drops in from under the cowl, so it needs to be sealed thoroughly or water will get into the cabin. Then I marked the bulkhead where the holes needed to be for the master cylander studs and shaft and drilled them out. The B15 clutch pedal bracket has two pipes welded to the plate mating with the bulkhead (firewall). These could be cut off and the klevis pin shortened to allow for the difference, but since they are there, I'll use them to my advantage. Sentras are known to develop cracks where the clutch pedal mounts to the bulkhead. I will cut a piece of plate steel and bolt it (or weld it) to the bulkhead and then mount the pedal to it. It will be the same thickness as the pipes attached to the clutch pedal bracket. This will allow the force of clutch operation to be dispersed more evenly across the bulkhead.

Lastly, I installed the coolant temp sending unit to the water pipe that goes behind both cylander heads (and off to the radiator). Just drill, tap and install. Add sealant and teflon tape to prevent any leaks. I used a bit too much, but oh well, it wont leak!



The clutch pedal bracket is slightly angled. Basically, I didn't measure this. I just fit it in as best as I could. I did have to bend the pedal a bit to get it to sit correctly in relation to the brake pedal, floor and foot rest (not on M/T cars).



It's a tight squeeze, but it fits! You do have to remove the cruise control actuator. I wish I could keep cruise, but I would need alot more than a BCM and ECM to get that, and that's just not in the budget.



It's ugly, but it will work. The single spade terminal sticking out of this pipe is the coolant temp sending unit for the gauge cluster. The blue connector near it is for the ECM. On all newer Nissans, the ECM reads the coolant temperature from the coolant temp sensor and then transmits that information, over the CAN lines, to the unified meter amp (gauge cluster control unit). So, when installing one of these newer engines, you need to add a sender for the old style gauge. I gooped RTV on the outside to make sure of no leaks. At this portion of the pipe, the alluminum can be grinded down flat, and a quarter of an inch is available for threading the sensor into. This will ensure a tight seal and proper fitment. Plus, its in a good place for an accurate reading.

Well, thats it for now.

I was just wondering. Is it just me, or is it that the only B13's left on the road have this really ugly poop colored interior. I mean, I dont mind a brown interior....but man, combine that with 14 years of stains and it really looks like a diaper genie exploded on everything. It's gonna take days to really clean that mess up!

More progress today. GREAT NEWS!!! The manual shifter assembly from the B15 has the same bolt pattern as a B13 (auto or manual). The only requirement is that the alignment tit on the bottom of the shifter base be ground off. I did have to remove the two front bushings from the shifter base and use something different, since the studs are too short. I used the valve cover gromets that are used on almost every older nissan (even the 1.6 that was in this car had these grommets). The rubber boot that covers the underside of the auto shifter fits around the manual shfiter, but will need some staples or hot glue to secure it to the body (reduce noise and eleminate any drafts).

The cables are the correct length for the shifter as well. I did have to enlarge the hold where they pass through, but other than that, its up and over the subframe and straight to the shifter mechanism on the trans. I gotta say, Im very excited about how easy this was. I'd say I had about 45 minutes in the whole swap. I did notice that the manual transmission shift boot for the B13 does not clear one of the linkages on the shifter. I dont know if I need to change the lower console assembly out (if it was different on the manual sentra verses the auto) and will research that more in the next few days. If there is no other option, I can just made trim that will work. Oh, and the B15 shifter is considerably shorter than the B13, so its not as sloppy as the older ones and looks better.

With the clutch pedal, master cylander and shifter assembly in, I just need to add a hydraulic line and this portion is finsihed! Up next, the front engine mount, transmission mount, axles, hubs/brakes, wiring and then.....vrrroooommm!

This is pretty awesome. Best of luck.

Damn this is crazy! Awesome dude!

WOW WOW WOW!!

This is going to be EPIC!!

Thanks everyone for the support. I can't wait to finish it either. I have a long way to go before I can drive it though. I really wish I could have made it AWD.

Back to the shifter:



Here it is. When I got this, every component was covered in heavy rust. I guess that's what I get for buying a $40.00 shifter assembly...but then again, $40 is WAY cheaper than a new one (several hundred). I did have to take it completely apart and clean it/regrease it. The base part has two studs and two holes that line up perfectly with the existing locations on the body. The only modification was an alignment tit on the bottom of the shifter base. Grind it off and it will bolt right in. Even the little rubber protector for the A/T shifter fit nicely. The opening through the floor for the cables had to be enlarged and new bolts installed to the pass through protector. I don't see the shifter trim fitting over this, so I will have to make something custom here.



Another angle.



The linkage above the orange cam is what is hitting the shifter trim. I really, really want to keep the stock B13 shifter trim, so I am going to see what I can do to raise the center console, or just try my best to match the origional piece when I make the new one.



Here's the cables meeting up with the shift mechanism. Yeah, I know, its rusty and I need to sand/paint it. Right now my main concern was to get this all installed and functional. Great thing is, its all just coming together. Hopefully this keeps up! Pushing this car around has proved to me how much lighter it is than my 240SX. I expect this to be faster than my 240 with the VQ in it.

So, that's it for now. Hopefully I'll get more done in the next few weeks. Thanks for checking in everyone!

Hey man,

I personally can appreciate your hard-work and dedication to something you want to do. Daring to be a bit different isn't such a bad thing and there are enthusiasts that truly wish for your success, for I am truly one of them.

Dee

Thank you. Really, cause we all know what its like to do something cool and its always when someone isn't looking.....or worse, was able to see it and it's just not cool to them. Story of my life! Glad to see a few people taking interest in my little project. Hopefully I inspire more to do the same thing....and like my 240SX build, do it better (mine is UGLY compared to the ones guys are building now!!!, and that's just awesome!).

Thanks again!

You should realy think about doing the short shifter mod to this while you can still get to the tranny linkage. If you are interested pm me. This is a very cool project you have going here. Congrats!

By all means, please post it to this thread. Many people will be looking at this when its all done and it will help them all out. I've never really noticed much play in the Spec cars, but then again, I have never owned one...so I just don't know. Please, post it up.

are u in charlotte bc if so i am as well i would like to see this beast in person

Sick project man. I wanna do the same to my sentra. Even tho everyone else is telling me to go sr...Do u plan to boost the sentra and or 240?

hey im new to the site, however i have a 2004 specv with a vq swap in it and if you need any parts i manage grade a auto parts salvage yard and would like to donate some parts to the swap.. let me know.

GODLY swap wish u the best of luck

Updates??

3.5specv wrote:hey I'm new to the site, however I have a 2004 spec-v with a VQ swap in it

PICS PICS PICS

how is this thing coming along?? done yet??

this is one hell of a swap check sr20forum.com for the nx cluster and for the interior spec v seats bolt into b13 with very minor mods its what i got in my ser and looks great

FIRST POST

Subscribed.

Would turbo manifolds fit in here? I know space is tight looking so just wondering.

look for the turbonics single turbo kit then all you have to do is reroute the piping

the turbo mounts after the headers before the cat.

dowing TT will be a real pain with the limited space in the b13

this looks like it could be amazing.

hi my name is archie, i really need your help. im doing a swap of a qr25 engine into a 91 sentra. i have some questions regarding the axles and electronics, so if you could email me at [email protected] and maybe we could exchange numbers, thanks

wow what a build

fu*#kin sweet

Updates?

Very cool swap man, I'm looking forward to updates.

ahh man this things gonna be a beast. try not to get to many tickets with her, wouldnt want the charlie hats at the pig stuy to take her from you.

I have been looking a little into this swap, looks splendid. My only gripe is with the gas mileage. With an advertised 17/20mpg. Any idea what to expect with a vehicle more then 1000 lbs lighter?

Great thread.

Dudeman