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Check your tps.

I just have a few questions. I ripped apart my passenger side kicker panel - removed the panel, the fan motor and the bottom half of the fan ducts so I could get at the ATCU. Now, I've taken pictures of what I've found thus far...

This is I think the ATCU, which was right above the bigger elec. control unit on the side wall right near the front. My manual wasn't the greatest but I'm pretty sure that's the atcu.

This is where it gets weird. I went to test the voltages across the TPS but...there was no power or ground wire for the tps, according to my manual.

These were the 2 plugs from the unit:

According to the manual, pin 3 and 5 are supposed to be the power to the TPS...but as you can see from the picture below, there are NO wires in those spots! It's supposed to be a 12 volt reading or whatever my battery is at, and then the tps is closed throttle .4-4 Open throttle...

I guess my main question is if I'm checking the right component and pins. Also, can I just unplug the connections and test without them plugged in, or do they have to be plugged in.

I'm going to give it another go tomorrow morning...It was so damn hot this afternoon I had to jump into the 60* pool to cool off....that really took my breath away It's finally been nice enough to get the pool up and runnin

Um...where exactly is it?

I think I have a good idea but I'm going to just start to prod and poke...

Another question....can I buy 1 screw at the dealership 'cause I lost one that held the fan unit in place. The damn thing didn't stick to my magnetic ratchet like it should have and fell into a void that has no return I will probrably just substitute a less important screw but I just don't want anything to rattle around.

Yes you can buy just one screw at the dealer.

Is it easier to get to going from the top or bottom?

I don't have time today and am losing light so I'm just going to do it tomorrow morning.

Modified by CDE at 11:08 PM 4/26/2005

Modified by flint at 2:04 PM 5/14/2005

Modified by flint at 11:04 AM 7/30/2005

Modified by flint at 10:39 AM 12/3/2005

I wish mine was that easy :P
I tried unplugging that one but it didn't do squat...I'm finally going to check the tps tomorrow...now that I know where it is :P

Turns out, it's nothing electronic and it's nothing external to the tranny like sensors and such. Mech figured it is just a weakening tranny. UGH. I'm praying that he's wrong and that it's the drive shaft some how. It shudders when it's under torque at low speeds - weak U joints. I've had it off a few times - once it helped the shudder, but the second time I took it off, it made it worse. I'm not sure if it's the culprit for the apparent tourque converter 'shudder' (not locking up properly - or so I thought). does anyone think it could be possible?

When it was at the mech shop he added some anti-friction atf. it helped the rough 1-2 shift a little but not the (apparent) TC shudder...

This is just for a reference if someone else is having a shaking problem when they are first taking off from a stop, and possibly the shimmy at higher speeds.

Just take a string and make sure the shaft is lined up properly measuring it from the center of the circles on the u-joints. Just loosen the 2 bolts (see pic) and twist the bearing until the shaft is aligned properly. The bearing isn't perfectly round so just twisting it will make a difference if the shaft is strait or not. Just putting dots on the pinions and bearing were not good enough to get it perfectly strait. Use a string

Specs:
1989 240SX coupe
24KAE (SOHC)
Automatic

Hope this helps anyone else with this problem so they don't spend 5 months trying to figure out what the heck it was...

I apologize for the crappy picture, but my car is low, and my batteries died right when I took that pic so I couldn't get a better one... But that's the steady bearing.

Modified by CDE at 11:59 AM 7/17/2005

update : I notice that it happens quite predictably :-

- from a cold start (after 2-3 minutes warm up)
- after 6-7 minutes of driving
- at that point I'm normally in heavy traffic so coasting real slow towards the freeway entrance
- enter freeway, accelerate
- and it cannot get out of first gear!!!
- stop the car dangerously by the side
- and its all ok for the rest of the journey! till the next cold start go back to the top.

It pulls out a code 43 when this happens (TPS) for the TCM and ECM. But I've already swapped with a good tps and have even checked it on a scope first.

One question though : is the TPS harness 0V reference supposed to be directly grounded to the battery. My multimeter seems to show a direct short to body/battery ground.

Appreciate if someone can show me exactly where its located....?

Anyone fixed the rev sensor or got it changed successfully? any advice appreciated before I go out there and buy one....

It has been 3 weeks now, with the rev sensor connected again, no re-occurrence. If you guys can access the sensor itself, perhaps its a good idea to give it a good clean + the connectors and harness nearby.

If it fails again, I'll do it once more!

First of congrats and thanks for the great help to all involved in this issue!!, i just finished reading it and as you'll read below my transmission showed it's first symptom a few hours ago...

I have my '93 240SX for about 7-8 months now. The first problem i encounterd was the roof leaks. So i finally replaced my convetible top this week. I pick it up today after work (it is so nice to be able to see through the back window again.) And on the way home turning right after a red light my transmission would hesitate shifting to 2nd and then would not shift at all.

Great I thought, i just fixed my top and now the tranny doesn't shift. Pulled over / turned on the hazard lights and let it idle on P, then I cycled through R N D 2 1, for a few secs on each gear, something similar as NISTECH described two posts ago. Then put it on drive and no problems at all on the way home.

For stats and history it was about 32F around 9pm here in the DC area.
First thing as i got home, log in to NICO Excellent write up!!!
I know now that it will happen again sooner or later, so I will I do the recommended check ups and keep posted for the outcome.

Question, how often do you change AT fluid (drop pan/change filter/clean magnets/put new gasket)? on my previous car I used to change it every 30K mi.

Many thanks, regards,

Luis.

I have the shaking and shimmy at high speeds, yes, exactly at 50mph (or 80kph +) mine does the same, and it its very annoying. I have replaced all my tires and balanced/ and rebalanced... And I was about to put new bushings all-around as someone told me. But I'll try the driveshaft aligment first as you mentioned.
Can you show a wider picture, maybe the whole drive shaft? and which bearing should i turn/twist? Thanks in advance.
Has anyone experienced this shimmy at cruising speeds before?

Sorry, I know it is not on the right topic thread.

Thanks again,

Luis.

KA-T why settle for anything less?

You laugh because I'm different. I laugh because I just farted.
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any input would be greatly appreciated, again, thanks for everything!! life savers :D

'93 hatch

Quote, originally posted by themadscientist »

I laugh when people tout the fuel economy of a turbo engine. While it is true that it would be more economical off boost as it is basically a low compression NA motor at that moment, who the heck can stay out of the boost? That's like having a hot girlfreind and just having meaninful conversation.