Oil, Oil And More Oil

[SEBZX79]

OK I know this has been beaten do death on every board.

I run M1 0w40 in my 2k Cirrus with good results. I am trying to figure what I should run in the 96q that I bought.

I am going to change the oil along with the trans fuid but I am not sure what vescasity I should go with for the engine and what ATF for the trans.

WHat do you guys use with good results.

[maxnix]

Lots of previous posts on these topics. Try a search to see some great in depth discussion.

Most run M1 in the transmission, some with some lubeguard red or black. Most run synthetic. The M1 0-40W should work fine if it hasn't been abused by long change intervals.

[SEBZX79]

Thanks MaxI usally do 8-10k mile changes on the 2k Cirrus that I have. It never used any oild and the engine is spotless on the inside after 65k miles. With the Q i am thinking of running 5-6k miles only since there will be a lot more short trips involved with it then with the Cirrus which saw 80% highway use.

Do you guys just use M1 Synthetic ATF for the trans?

THe car has 58 k miles and I am thinking of doing the following

New air filterFuel filterEngine coolentDiferential oil change (what synthetic gear oil?)Auto trans flushNew plugs

Am i missing anything?

[maxnix]

PS fluid extraction and replacement with M1 ATF. All M1 products are synthetic.

Don't forget your brake fluid flush replacement with DOT4.

Short trips (frequent starting, idling, stop and go) is a severe duty cycle. Most here change more frequently because oil does get contaminated.

Any GL5 synthetic for the differential. I use M1 75-90W on the SEattle car, and Royal Purple 75-140W on the Texas car.

[AZhitman]

General consesus among oil experts is that the frequency of change is more important than the quality of the oil.

That said, I am a STRONG proponent of Mobil 1, changed every 3K miles. Why scrimp on something so critical?

WalMart charges $30 for a Mobil 1 oil change - Bring your own OEM filter and you're good to go.

Coolant: 70% Distilled water, 25% quality coolant, and a bottle of Redline Water Wetter.

Trans: I like Mobil 1 with a bottle of Lubeguard.

Rear diff: Mobil 1 75-90w.

OEM plugs and air filter are the hot item, you can get them at a great price from our sponsors to your left.

Sounds like you're off to a great start, welcome to NICO!!!

[PalmerWMD]

Since you extend oil changes I highly feel a full syjnthetic oil with group IV or higher, lube stock is needed.

2 good oils in the Q are M1 0w-40 , or Castrol Syntec 0w-30 the 0w-30 syntec unlike the other Syntecs is at least a group IV possibly even group V oil, has good detergency and is among the thickest 30 weights almost a 40 weight.Has proven highly stable too.

The more I think about it ,probably the best off-the-shelf- choice with your extended OCI's.

Fred..

[Jeff Williams]

In the silver one, I run Catrol 10-W-30, at 2,500 mile intervals. In the balck one, I have AMSOIL. Don't know the intervals, yet, but will be doing oil tests, every 5,000 to 7,500 miles, when I change the filter. Of course, I drive 2,500 miles every 2 t o3 weeks, and 65 miles on-way to work @ an average speed of 70 MPH. Not a lot of stop-and-go driving, because I usually ride with someone else to lunch.

If you intend to keep the car for a long time, I would suggest more frequent changes, since the tolerances are much closer than the Chrysler.

I went 9,000 miles, in the Honda, once, by mistake, and the stupid thing smoked, and the oil light flickered, unless I added a bunch of Lucas Oil reatment.

[JT_MONEY_2004]

Is 0w 40 thicker than 15w 40? Exactly what do the two #'s mean?

[SEBZX79]

Ow40 oil flows better then a 5w oil at 0 degrees. When it is hot it acts like a 40weight oil. You can use this oil all year alround in all climets in any car.

15w40 oil is much thicker at 0 degrees and also has a much higher flush point. if 0w flows at -45 degrees the 15w oil might only flow at 10degees.

The 0w40 or 0w30 can pretty much be used all year round in any conditions.

[szh]

I strongly recommend that everyone get the downloadable copy of this book (only costs $14.95).

http://www.noria.com/secure/pr...id=79

It will give you a lot of information about oils and filter. I have found it absolutely invaluable when used in conjuction with Fred's posts.

Z

[Jesda]

I use Mobil 1 5w40 on the Q. But why does the bottle say its for trucks?

Thanks,

[Q45tech]

Oil, ATF and any lubricant has a narrow BEST operating temperature --- too cold is almost as bad as too hot..........160-212F for oil and 160-180F for ATF [lower because of the glue that holds the friction material to clutch plates].

[SEBZX79]

That oil is their M1 Delvac 1 diesel oil repackaged as a Truck and SUV oil. It is one of the best oils you can buy and run in your gasoline car.

You can find more info on it at http://www.bobistheoilguy.com they have more information on oil there then any one would care for.

[texasoil]

As a 'certified expert' in lube oils, I am in favor of 'semi-synthetic' engine oils for most all automotive service--except 'extended drain interval' . I DO NOT support extended drain interval for people who want to keep their car a long time. It reduces maintenance cost and aggravation during the first 3 years--but the piper will want his pay later. Semi-syn with 4K miles/4 months is a good, safe, economical interval that will provide very long engine life. If lots of very high load, high high temp operation is encountered, shorter change intervals desirable. Synthetic ATF is good for arctic temp operation--the only 'improvement' over conventional Dexron III fluids--but change it every 30K miles for long transmission life in any case. the additives that provide good shift quality do deplete.