Post by
Hijacker »
https://forums.nicoclub.com/hijacker-u9394.html
Wed Aug 11, 2004 5:01 pm
Ok. I just finished swapping them into the vert today, and I believe I was instructed to make a write up for it
EDIT: Make a note that I installed USDM power mirrors. These are NOT the JDM folding mirrors.
On the coupe and hatch, power mirrors are plug and play. The harness plugs existed even on the manual mirror cars for ease of wiring for the factory. Since the convertible places the rear quarter window switch in the stock location of the mirror switch, the factory ommited ALL harnessing for power mirrors. If you decide to put power mirrors in (whether they be USDM power mirrors or JDM folding mirrors), you'll need to fabricate ALL of the harnessing yourself.
Here's the wiring diagram for the factory setup. I tried to follow it as much as possible while creating the harness. Purple/White is a power source for both mirrors, and the rest are ground completes to actuate the motors. Following this diagram, you should have no problem fabbing up a harness. The only differences I made were I tapped the Blue/White switch power line from the ACC line off the radio, and I grounded the whole unit out on the trans tunnel.
What I did was run wires for the doors and for the chassis seperate and used some radio shack molex connectors to create a plug for dissassembly. Should the need arise.
The first step is of course to take out your interior. I removed the center console, the radio, the doors, the glovebox and frame, and the kick panels.
Second step is to decide where you want to mount your switch. I mounted mine inside the center console's arm rest. On the vertical edge. It's out of the way, and oriented the same way it would be stock.
Next, I ran one line for the LH harness. I ran it from the location that I was going to mount the switch. Then I used that wire to measure my other wires for the LH harness. Each half of the harness is 3 wires.
A quick stop at radio shack yielded some male and female molex connectors. They only had 4 wire plugs available, but I'm not worried about wasting a plug hole. Pulling out the old soldering iron, I made some spot solders to the wires to hold them to the metal plugs of the molex.
(I used the zipties to keep the molex from seperating (i didn't like how loose they stayed connected))
Repeat the same on the RH portion of the harness and then connect the switch plug to the harness. I used crimp connectors for this connection since so many wires were there, I didn't want to risk any short circuits due to touching solder joints.
Next I cut about 5 feet of wire for the door harness and soldered the wires to the female molex (or male if you used the female on the chassis harness). Then, with either mechanics wire (recommended) or a coat hanger (in a hurry) poke a hole through the upper door grommet and run the wire in. Then wrap it around the door harness and pull it through. Make a slit in the lower grommet with a razor blade. You will have to pop it out of the door frame to wriggle it into position. I also ziptied the new harness to the old harness to keep it from getting mangled and mashed. Run it up the top hole on the door and trim the harness down to your liking.
I snagged the stock harness plugs for the mirrors so I could make another plug connection for easy dissassembly.
Now just find a suitable power source. I tapped the ACC line from the radio, and grounded the plug straight the chassis.