I dont have my digital camera with me, but heres a picture I dug out of one of my old writeups
Its the black wire, coming out of the little plastic gray thing, on the bottom of the power transistor....
Just clamp it down with the timing light, and thats it. Easy as cake!!!
My timing was at like 10*, it needs to be on the 4th notch. I thought it was fine, but then when I moved the CAS I saw another notch. I have it adjusted right in between the 4th and 5th notch, closer to the 4th, so id say its about 17*BTDC.
Results?? My 50-80 times were running too high (around 6.5) and after this, its running a solid 5.5, did 2 runs, ran 5.45 and then a 5.5. Didnt get to do any more, I ran into a road where it wasnt adviseable
Anyway, this is the easiest thing Ive done, no tools required to check the timing. Ill probably check it every so often so I can monitor it, to make sure I didnt make it too advanced.....
Anyway, it works, so I thought Id pass this on for you all! I was going to dig in, but I just started clamping wires with the light, and voila, it started blinking! WOOHOO!
Method B on EF-EC 34... WORKS!
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elwesso
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Its a good thing I went back and checked it later, because it was about 20*BTDC, so I adjusted it back just to the right of the 4th mark.
Interestingly enough it doesnt really feel that much faster, but the numbers dont lie. It feels just a bit peppier, I guess. I hope I get good gas mileage too!
I actually thought it was good, but it was so far off I didnt see the last mark, so I was 5* off. My first mark was very hard to see, it apparently had some dirt in it or something.
A note to people in the future viewing this thread: Be SURE to shine the timing light around to be sure your viewing all the timing marks...
Also, the CAS is VERY sensitive, the amount you move it is the amount that the timing moves on the indicators.. So its about 7mm or so between each mark, and thats how much you have to move it. Its kinda fun to move it around and play with it, but I guess thats my inmaturity showing
Interestingly enough it doesnt really feel that much faster, but the numbers dont lie. It feels just a bit peppier, I guess. I hope I get good gas mileage too!
I actually thought it was good, but it was so far off I didnt see the last mark, so I was 5* off. My first mark was very hard to see, it apparently had some dirt in it or something.
A note to people in the future viewing this thread: Be SURE to shine the timing light around to be sure your viewing all the timing marks...
Also, the CAS is VERY sensitive, the amount you move it is the amount that the timing moves on the indicators.. So its about 7mm or so between each mark, and thats how much you have to move it. Its kinda fun to move it around and play with it, but I guess thats my inmaturity showing
Or use a whiteout pen to mark the first and last.elwesso wrote:A note to people in the future viewing this thread: Be SURE to shine the timing light around to be sure your viewing all the timing marks...
Quote »Also, the CAS is VERY sensitive, the amount you move it is the amount that the timing moves on the indicators.. So its about 7mm or so between each mark, and thats how much you have to move it. Its kinda fun to move it around and play with it, but I guess thats my inmaturity showing
[/quote] Best to write in terms of degrees. 7mm at what radius from the center of rotation? A degree on the CAS equals 2 degrees on the crank.-
Q45tech
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1995 G20t 5 speed 334,000 miles 16" 2002 wheels - 205/50/16 Sr20ve vvl
When the timing get retarded [less initial advance 15>10] that is from chain stretch between crank and exhaust cam.
In theory both chains should stretch the same amount.Resetting gets the ignition vs piston positions correct again but the valve opening closing is still off.................later by what ever amount the chain has stretched.
Generally idle smoothness suffers* first but you get a gain in the 6000-7300 rpm range from later exhaust opening closing.
* Also the idle low rpm compression declines from ring wear adding to the chain stretch phenomenon.The power balance may not show this as it is conducted at 1100-1200 rpm where more oil is being slung on piston bores vs 650 idle........sealing gets better as rpm increases........why a Q can fail compression test [>100psi cranking vs 185 spec] and still create as new [or even better] oem power. Till it becomes a blue smoker!
In theory both chains should stretch the same amount.Resetting gets the ignition vs piston positions correct again but the valve opening closing is still off.................later by what ever amount the chain has stretched.
Generally idle smoothness suffers* first but you get a gain in the 6000-7300 rpm range from later exhaust opening closing.
* Also the idle low rpm compression declines from ring wear adding to the chain stretch phenomenon.The power balance may not show this as it is conducted at 1100-1200 rpm where more oil is being slung on piston bores vs 650 idle........sealing gets better as rpm increases........why a Q can fail compression test [>100psi cranking vs 185 spec] and still create as new [or even better] oem power. Till it becomes a blue smoker!
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elwesso
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But now that the timing is good, its all good...
I was just reading the service manual, and I know why intially my 50-80 times were good.... I didnt have the fuel pressure regulator vacuum line hooked up, and when that happens fuel pressure is 43.4 PSI, or WOT fuel pressure, and when I got it all hooked up it brought it back down to normal...
Ahh yes its all coming all together now..... I think Ive finally filled in that final gap, when Greg drove my Q he said it was "just a little off", well it was about 5* off!!
I was just reading the service manual, and I know why intially my 50-80 times were good.... I didnt have the fuel pressure regulator vacuum line hooked up, and when that happens fuel pressure is 43.4 PSI, or WOT fuel pressure, and when I got it all hooked up it brought it back down to normal...
Ahh yes its all coming all together now..... I think Ive finally filled in that final gap, when Greg drove my Q he said it was "just a little off", well it was about 5* off!!
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Q45tech
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Depends on how much lower your running compression [ring wear] is --- the two tend to oppose.......gain from exhaust retard.
Engine wear to a point means less friction until the valve stem seals start dumping oil into combustion chambers [preignition/knock].........in theory the engine should run best just minutes before it slings a rod if it hasn't started to smoke blue.
It is roughly 18" from crank to exhaust cam a 1% stretch [elongation] is 0.18".............measure the 36 tooth circumference on exhaust sprocket [each tooth is 10 degrees] but on the crank there are 18 teeth so 20 degrees.
Typical CAS reset is ~~ 2- 3 degrees crank timing so that would equate to 4 - 6 degrees at cam.
So Overlap would stay the same ........Exh closes at 12 instead of 8 ATDC........Intake opens at 4 ATDC instead of zero [TDC] at idle/WOT above 4600 [16 instead of 20 at 1500-4600].
On a SR20 [2 liter same head design same cam duration lower compression] retarding 4 degrees increase 6,000-7,000 rpm power by 3HP so 6.75-9/10 HP max power change most above 6500 rpm]..........why JWT ecu seems to work even better on high mileage higher redline..............too short a time to feel much but in 2nd gear........takes about 2 secs to go from 80 to 90 mph [6,000-6750 rpm] and another 1.7 secs to hit 98mph [7,250].
So you have 2.2 secs to feel any more power. Hey every 0.1 counts
Engine wear to a point means less friction until the valve stem seals start dumping oil into combustion chambers [preignition/knock].........in theory the engine should run best just minutes before it slings a rod if it hasn't started to smoke blue.
It is roughly 18" from crank to exhaust cam a 1% stretch [elongation] is 0.18".............measure the 36 tooth circumference on exhaust sprocket [each tooth is 10 degrees] but on the crank there are 18 teeth so 20 degrees.
Typical CAS reset is ~~ 2- 3 degrees crank timing so that would equate to 4 - 6 degrees at cam.
So Overlap would stay the same ........Exh closes at 12 instead of 8 ATDC........Intake opens at 4 ATDC instead of zero [TDC] at idle/WOT above 4600 [16 instead of 20 at 1500-4600].
On a SR20 [2 liter same head design same cam duration lower compression] retarding 4 degrees increase 6,000-7,000 rpm power by 3HP so 6.75-9/10 HP max power change most above 6500 rpm]..........why JWT ecu seems to work even better on high mileage higher redline..............too short a time to feel much but in 2nd gear........takes about 2 secs to go from 80 to 90 mph [6,000-6750 rpm] and another 1.7 secs to hit 98mph [7,250].
So you have 2.2 secs to feel any more power. Hey every 0.1 counts
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Q45tech
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1995 G20t 5 speed 334,000 miles 16" 2002 wheels - 205/50/16 Sr20ve vvl
http://home.tiscali.no/henriks...n.htm
http://tsubakimoto.com/products/auto/index.htmlNote the engine on the web site.
http://tsubakimoto.com/product....html
1.5% seems to be the specified maximum
http://tsubakimoto.com/products/auto/index.htmlNote the engine on the web site.
http://tsubakimoto.com/product....html
1.5% seems to be the specified maximum
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Q45tech
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They told me 6 years ago that Nissan designed the original 90-93 guides and that the replacements were of standard Tsubakimoto design."Always have the chain manufacture design the guides" now hangs in the engineering department in Japan.
Look at the new engines they are even more over designed : Parallel dual side by side chains..........never again was the byword.
Look at the new engines they are even more over designed : Parallel dual side by side chains..........never again was the byword.
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elwesso
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ORIGINALLY POSTED BY Q45tech:
SST is the only way we have ever used to trigger timing light.Never hear of anyone getting method B to work.
When dealerships first opened they were given a list of $200,000 in specialty tools to buy before they could sell there first car.
DIY [non dealers] are expected to have a similar stable of tools and equipment just reduced in scope.
Since the SST is shown on 2nd page of section as required.............model B probably doesn't exist.
Now DIYers can have an easy way to check timing!
SST is the only way we have ever used to trigger timing light.Never hear of anyone getting method B to work.
When dealerships first opened they were given a list of $200,000 in specialty tools to buy before they could sell there first car.
DIY [non dealers] are expected to have a similar stable of tools and equipment just reduced in scope.
Since the SST is shown on 2nd page of section as required.............model B probably doesn't exist.
Now DIYers can have an easy way to check timing!
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3Q Jay
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95 Q45a (sold)
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01 B15 Sentra (Daughter's)
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Re: (elwesso)
resurrecting an oldie here.....this was excellent find. timing was on my to do list for a while now, but didn't like the idea of building a jumper.
my notes for the uninitiated:1. the signal going thru this line is not unique to #1. in fact, from the pulse frequency of the strobe at idle , my eye says 1,3,5, and 7 are all going thru this line. doesn't matter though, since the other 3 on that bank fire 180, 270, or 450 [90] deg later, the strobe is referenced to #1 when the index marks are visible, and the other flashes just light up other parts of the balancer. my timing light [just a $50 20 years ago inductive model] did get warm rather quickly though with the 4x pulsing, and a quick throttle stab made it flash like it was at 8000 revs on a single cylinder trigger....
2. once you've done it once it's obvious--but it took me the longest time to find the second CAS holddown [it is under the CAS, not visible at all really, you just have to feel for it]. recommend loosing the 'easy' one before engine start [it's very close to the spinning fan], and loosing/adjustung/ tightening[partial] the blind one while the engine is running. then you go back and tighten the easy one. don't forget to recheck timing after both are snug.
oh....the results? i was at 12° before adjusting, and set it to 17.5°. ok, i know upper limit is 17, but i wanted to go all the way to 17, and 17.5 was the closest i could get and still be at '17'. initial off idle acceleration is improved. still not a stoplight screamer, but the 'lag' is much better out of the hole. definitely a rocket from 70-90, but it was before too. i'm hoping this will also improve my fuel economy, which hasn't been great [12-16, no extended hiway only miles yet].
my notes for the uninitiated:1. the signal going thru this line is not unique to #1. in fact, from the pulse frequency of the strobe at idle , my eye says 1,3,5, and 7 are all going thru this line. doesn't matter though, since the other 3 on that bank fire 180, 270, or 450 [90] deg later, the strobe is referenced to #1 when the index marks are visible, and the other flashes just light up other parts of the balancer. my timing light [just a $50 20 years ago inductive model] did get warm rather quickly though with the 4x pulsing, and a quick throttle stab made it flash like it was at 8000 revs on a single cylinder trigger....
2. once you've done it once it's obvious--but it took me the longest time to find the second CAS holddown [it is under the CAS, not visible at all really, you just have to feel for it]. recommend loosing the 'easy' one before engine start [it's very close to the spinning fan], and loosing/adjustung/ tightening[partial] the blind one while the engine is running. then you go back and tighten the easy one. don't forget to recheck timing after both are snug.
oh....the results? i was at 12° before adjusting, and set it to 17.5°. ok, i know upper limit is 17, but i wanted to go all the way to 17, and 17.5 was the closest i could get and still be at '17'. initial off idle acceleration is improved. still not a stoplight screamer, but the 'lag' is much better out of the hole. definitely a rocket from 70-90, but it was before too. i'm hoping this will also improve my fuel economy, which hasn't been great [12-16, no extended hiway only miles yet].