Post by
240dx »
https://forums.nicoclub.com/240dx-u125550.html
Tue Nov 24, 2009 8:21 pm
"any monkey can take something apart, it's putting it back together that takes skill" Iv'e taken apart my KA24DE-T out of my 1997 after it started knocking. My third cylinder popped a ringland, i determined this with a compression test followed by a leak-down test. Im in college and am on a pretty tight budget. Time for an OEM rebuild.I just picked up my block from the local machine shop. I had the block end hot tanked and honed. I got the crankshaft polished and all measured to be within specifications. Hot-Tanked Block! Reconditioned Rods
Silly Kitty also loved them Crankshaft Looks Brand New Oil Squirters cleaned Had the machine shop grind my rings to spec. It was cheaper to get them to grind the rings then for me to buy the tool. I got NPR Pistons and Rings shipped out of Japan for a decent price. I know I should have gotten forged but my budget was real tight. These pistons will hold good for my power goals anyways. I compared them side-by-side with the OEM pistons and found them to be very similar. Left Piston is NPR right is OEM I got TopLine bearings, Iv'e had excellent experience with them and I've heard lota of positive feedback on them. Now that I have all the essentials, Im starting to build the bottom end.I dont have a garage:( and it's been pissing rain out for days and weeks to come The downsides of living in BC, but hey atleast it grows us our BC bud So this is my indoor workspace. Sooooo small, but it sure beats the cold and rain I am following the Nissan FSM for torque and specs! I started by cleaning the block with warm soap and water and a toilet scrubby
After it was free of lint I installed the fresh oil squirters, torqued to 30 Ft. Lb I used brake Kleen and wiped down the bearing cups on both the block and griddle.I installed the TopLine bearings
I used a plastigage on every bearing about 1/4 in off centerGently placed the crank over the lower bearings. If you are doing this DO NOT SPIN THE CRANK!I placed 5 more plastigages on the main crank journals and torqued the griddle in to 18 Ft. Lbthen 38 Ft. Lb. (Put new Motor oil on the main bolts!) Took off the bearing griddle in the reverse order.The plastigages are squished and all ly within spec.It it important that the clearances are consistent I washed off the plastic with brake cleaner and a lint free cloth.I used Lucas Assembly Lube throughout the build. It works great.Lubed up all ten crank bearings. And Torqued the crank in to FSM spec. At this point make sure the crank spins freely by hand. I double checked every ring's end gap from the machine shop.Every one was within spec. I aligned the rings so the end gaps are facing the way nissan wants them to face I made tick markes at 1/8th increments to help align rings
Workspace! Installed Put the pistons on the rods, kitty double checked everything was good Snap rings
Clean and lube the threads before installing for accurate torque I places hoses on the ends on the connecting rods to prevent damage to the cylinder wallsduring installation. I cleaned the surfaces with brake cleaner and installed the bearings in the rods and caps.Make sure to align the bearing oil holes with the connecting rods. I Did a final wipe down to clean off any lint.Lubed up the rod bearingsLubed up the rings and placed each piston in a ring compressor.Made sure all the pistons were facing the right direction and used the rubber end of a hammer and tapped the piston/rod assembly into their cylindersUsed a plastigage on each rod cap (not lubed) All bearing clearences measured within spec.Cleaned off reminense of the plastigage with brake cleaner.I torqued the caps down to 10 Ft. Lband the 30 ft. Lb After all the repetitivenessI had an assembled Short block. Hope this is useful to anybody looking to rebuild their short block.I will bump this thread later on when the long block/ timing chain is complete. From Victoria BC, Canada.
Modified by 240dx at 10:28 PM 11/24/2009
Last edited by
240dx on Sat Mar 03, 2012 2:38 pm, edited 1 time in total.