VH45DE adapter plate to Z33 trans (CRUDE)

Discuss topics related to the VH41DE, VH45DE, VK45DE, and VK56DE engines.
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EMK
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Car: 92 s13 Hatch

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So as the title states I have made a crude yet functional 3 piece adapter plate that mates the Z33 trans to the VH45. I have been asked several times about it so I figured that I would post it up to kinda give some knowledge back to the NICO community.

Yes I can make templates for anyone who wants to follow along. I can even make duplicates (better quality of course) but I've always trusted my own work to that of someone else's so assuming you're thinking like me I'm not trying to start a production run or anything like that unless its necessary.

And to answer the obvious I did 3 piece instead of one because it's way cheaper and if I screwed up something I wasn't out $200 in aluminum. Plus this was done with simple hand power tools as I don't have full access to a machine shop.



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LEMHEAD16
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Has your "Plate" been in a running vehicle yet?

It does look crude but if it works

Can I ask why you chose the Z33 transmission?

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EMK
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Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2007 8:20 am
Car: 92 s13 Hatch

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Ok before anyone starts the questions and such I would like to make it completely clear that I made this plate to put the two together and that I'm not finished with my swap and only posted this to show people that are going the same direction I am that a solution exsists for the problem. I know that this is one of the biggest reason people never attempt a swap because they can't see all the answers laid out for them ahead of time. It isn't some design that I'm proudly showing off in hopes of begining a production of the plates it is just a post to show someone that not only is it possible to make one but that you don't have to spend a bunch of time trying to figure out how to make it work. I'm only trying to save someone of going through the same trouble I already have.

Now to answer questions... No it hasn't been in a running vehicle because I don't have an exhaust for the vh that fits the s13. All I know is that it fits and that it holds the full weight of the transmission while the engine is the only thing being supported.

I chose the Z33 because I wanted the ratios. I have driven several vehicles and I like the spacing of the Z33 a lot better than the S13 and Z32 plus I have driven the 03 350z with the syncro issues and know it's far from the death in waiting that everyone warns of. And I am far happier with that than a trans that will definately have over 75k miles and definately cost more than 500 (at the time I could only find one place to get them and was even considering using the Z31 turbo 87 and later) and still require the same amount of work and since I got mine with a verifiable less than 30k miles on it for a great deal (less than what I couldve gotten a z32 for in worse shape)
Modified by EMK at 7:48 AM 11/22/2009

afwfjustin
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What thickness did you use?

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EMK
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Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2007 8:20 am
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1/2 x 3 6061 t6 aluminum. I bought a 3 ft bar and started from that.

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Chrispy300
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Are you going to countersink the bolts in or section the bellhousing?

I have to be honest, I'm not a fan.

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EMK
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Car: 92 s13 Hatch

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I haven't needed to countersink because the mounting flange on the z33 transmission is over an inch thick and since the bolt head is only 3/8 inch tall...

And again thanks in advance for everones opinions.

Wes M
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Car: Mountach (Convertable Widebody S1 Rx7), R33 Skyline, 280ZX, Camry

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I like it. Sure its a bit rough around the edges, but lets face it, the adapter plate is hardly a high profile automotive component.

Only thing I would be concerned about is the alignment as you no longer have the benefits of 2x dowels for locating. Or have you addressed this?

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Mettler
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Car: HR31 GTS-8 coupe, VH41/45 Hybrid Transplant

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I'm liking the diy ingenuity of this project, keep it up _b

My only criticism is that it exposes the bellhousing to outside, and that you'd wanna weld pieces in to cover the gaps.

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EMK
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Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2007 8:20 am
Car: 92 s13 Hatch

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I made the plate with the engine and trans mated together to ensure the alignment was accurate but yeah I did lose the rowel pins for location. It does fit though. I guess I'll see how much that matters if at all when I drive it.

Thanks for the kind words it really helps.
Modified by EMK at 8:55 AM 11/30/2009

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EMK
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Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2007 8:20 am
Car: 92 s13 Hatch

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You do have a point there and I'm hoping I can get away with doing that out of sheet Alluminum and wraping that to the top of the bolt holes. Thanks for the encouragement. I appreciate it.

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Carl H
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definately one way of doing it but i am not sure i like it.the fact it is multi piece will mean there will be alot of stress points, at a minimum there should be filler pieces made and welded together to help distribute the clamping load.you should also think about countersinking the bolt heads if just for clearance issues, not just asthetics.keep it up vh cars are loads of fun.

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Mettler
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Car: HR31 GTS-8 coupe, VH41/45 Hybrid Transplant

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An important consideration is that your gearbox spigot shaft has to be 100% perfectly spigoted into the crank, if you're off even slightly, you'll introduce rapid wear to the bearings inside the gearbox.


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