FGY33 Radiator is needed now

[NightRiderQ45]

As I was looking for the metal plate that had my interior/exterior paint info early this morning while the car was running, I was surprised to see antifreeze running along the top of the radiator from left to right! I could see the fluid under the air duct that connects to the air filter box. My car hasn't been running hot and I never smelled antifreeze after getting out of the car. I see that I have a small leak. Could you all recommend me some good radiators/brand and place of purchase? I'm thinking about just going with the oem radiator again since it lasted to 211k but there might be aftermarket radiators out there that are built just as good or better.

Here are some quick pics I snapped with my BlackBerry camera. Sorry for the quality since it was dark outside....but these pics will give you an idea of what I'm dealing with now. Please chime in...
Modified by NightRiderQ45 at 5:07 AM 11/10/2009

[maxnix]

Hello Joe!

There are brass ones aftermarket, but I would stay with aluminum considering how much there is in the engine and how different valance metals can interact through an electrolytic solution. I wonder if there is a sacrificail anode like on the G60?

[NightRiderQ45]

Hello Joe!

There are brass ones aftermarket, but I would stay with aluminum considering how much there is in the engine and how different valance metals can interact through an electrolytic solution. I wonder if there is a sacrificail anode like on the G60?

I see you're back! Thanks for the response. I'll look up the price on IoS website. Have you replaced your radiator yet? Yeah I think that I'm going to go with what's in here now. I need to get this replaced asap since I'm on the road a lot. I'm thankful that the leak isn't large now.

I just thought of this, it might be my radiator cap!? I haven't changed the cap since I've owned the car (1/05) so it could just be the cap. I'll change that out first and see if I still have the fluid running down the channel.
Modified by NightRiderQ45 at 8:03 AM 11/9/2009

[maxnix]

Check the cap and everything else. Don't want to be stranded on your road trip.

[BCC93QT]

I have a spare one from a G50. I don't know if it is much use to you. Not sure if you can run it on your Y33. Let me know if you find out its almost brand new

[NightRiderQ45]

I plan on replacing the cap today once I get off. I will take my car to a pressure washer and clean the old af off. If I see the fluid running along the channel tomorrow morning, then I will know for sure that the gasket along the radiator is dead and I will replace. I checked Joe and the radiator cost almost $500!

Thanks for the offer. Idk if the G50 will fit Y33's but I will find out.

[BCC93QT]

Honestly, I thought it would run far past 500. When my MAF went out on me they quoted me at $435 or something for a brand new one.

[NightRiderQ45]

Honestly, I thought it would run far past 500. When my MAF went out on me they quoted me at $435 or something for a brand new one.

Well if I were to purchase from the dealer then it would be almost $600 but purchasing from IofS...it was a little cheaper. I went to Advance Auto Parts website just to look at radiators and theirs is $280. I went to eBay and they are around the $100-150 range but it's with brands that I've never heard of or auctions with wording that isn't spelled correctly. More important, if something were to go wrong, I wouldn't be able to get in touch with them since it's an online auction.

[Q45tech]

Generally aftermarket rads save cost by thinner metal and plastic, fewer fins per inch etx. But most of them operate with less than 15% degradation from oewm brand new.

Only expensive test equipment can tell the difference during the first year or two.

Really depends on the longevity desired.

My oem rad lasted 10 years and I expect 15-20 years out of my $900 custom thick all aluminum unit.

Some times getting 1-2-3 degrees improvement can cost multi hundreds.

[NightRiderQ45]

Generally aftermarket rads save cost by thinner metal and plastic, fewer fins per inch etx. But most of them operate with less than 15% degradation from oewm brand new.

Only expensive test equipment can tell the difference during the first year or two.

Really depends on the longevity desired.

My oem rad lasted 10 years and I expect 15-20 years out of my $900 custom thick all aluminum unit.

Some times getting 1-2-3 degrees improvement can cost multi hundreds.

Generally aftermarket rads save cost by thinner metal and plastic, fewer fins per inch etx. But most of them operate with less than 15% degradation from oewm brand new.

Only expensive test equipment can tell the difference during the first year or two.

Really depends on the longevity desired.

My oem rad lasted 10 years and I expect 15-20 years out of my $900 custom thick all aluminum unit.

Some times getting 1-2-3 degrees improvement can cost multi hundreds.

That makes sense but I just can't see myself spending $900 on a radiator. I guess that I'm going to purchase one from AAP with the lifetime warranty. If something happens, I'll just get another one. I guess I should change out the thermostat while I'm at it huh?

Oh, I found out that the radiator is toast. I took of the air duct that runs along the radiator and I found out that it was leaking from the top of the radiator where the model number is stamped on it....look at the pic

[Q451990]

I wonder if there are any radiator repair shops left in your area that could remove the end tanks, clean the inside of the radiator, and replace your end tanks?

Heath

[Q45tech]

THE POINT is the $199 replacements can last a few years [maybe even 7 years] but you must be sensitive to slow annual decreases in efficiency. Most people don't care or are immune to a few degrees rise.

AS opposed to a $900 unit I would probably feel safer in replacing a $199 unit every 3 years {<50k] if I wasn't sure I would be keeping the Q for 10 years more!

Net net the efficiency would end the same.

[NightRiderQ45]

THE POINT is the $199 replacements can last a few years [maybe even 7 years] but you must be sensitive to slow annual decreases in efficiency. Most people don't care or are immune to a few degrees rise.

AS opposed to a $900 unit I would probably feel safer in replacing a $199 unit every 3 years {<50k] if I wasn't sure I would be keeping the Q for 10 years more!

Net net the efficiency would end the same.

Do you have data to back up your decrease in efficiency numbers; if so I would like to see? I know multiple people who have purchase non-oem radiators and they are not changing them out every 3yrs. I will go ahead and purchase the radiator from AAP and if it goes out in 7yrs, I'll just get another one with the warranty. 7yrs from now, my Q45 would be downgraded to just a work vehicle since I would've purchase a new vehicle by then. The Lexus GS350 is looking very sexy now and days...

Q451990...I'm sorry but what are the end tanks? The work involved with what you mention, I think that I could go ahead and purchase a new radiator.

[maxnix]

Check your email.

[NightRiderQ45]

Check your email.

I did. I don't have anything from you. Don't send it to that old gapac.com address. I don't work there anymore. My updated email is on my profile.

[maxnix]

That's what I used two days ago.

Email me, please.

[Q45tech]

Almost every Master in Science engineer understands aluminum alloy corrosion and oxidation and it's effects on heat transfer.

All every ________ has to do is look and measure fins and their deformation to see these effects.............without even a microscope.http://www.keytometals.com/Article14.htm

The are 7 major series of alloys and hundreds of sub blends in each series

[qship96]

Yes, but who is to say the factory radiator is better, equal to, or worse than an aftermarket radiator.......price alone is a poor measure as all nissan branded replacement parts are overpriced these days.

[Q451990]

Q451990...I'm sorry but what are the end tanks? The work involved with what you mention, I think that I could go ahead and purchase a new radiator.

The end tanks are the tanks that mount on the ends (or top and bottom) of the radiator. That's the part that's leaking on yours. Sounds like you've made up your mind though...

Heath

[NightRiderQ45]

Almost every Master in Science engineer understands aluminum alloy corrosion and oxidation and it's effects on heat transfer.

All every ________ has to do is look and measure fins and their deformation to see these effects.............without even a microscope.http://www.keytometals.com/Article14.htm

The are 7 major series of alloys and hundreds of sub blends in each series

I have my BS in Electrical Engineering so don't get it misconstrued I'm not an idiot. Stop throwing out your MS credential because I can obtain that with an extra 1.5-2yrs schooling...as I chose NOT to since I was offered a great salary/position coming out of college with my previous employer. Everything you stated about aluminum corrosion is true, but you still didn't answer my question. Show me proof that an aftermarket radiator is at least 15% worst than an oem radiator. Show me proof that an aftermarket is built worse than my present oem radiator. Show me proof that my oem radiator will run cooler than the aftermarket. IF you can't present proof then I respectfully tell you to be quiet. I mean every Bachelor of Science in Electrical Engineering knows that you can't pass by assumption but by proof...

Yes, but who is to say the factory radiator is better, equal to, or worse than an aftermarket radiator.......price alone is a poor measure as all nissan branded replacement parts are overpriced these days.

Couldn't have said it better. With the price you pay for a oem oil filter, you would think that you have the best build/quatily inside of that can...WRONG! Cut that sucker open and see how cheaply it's constructed. Once again price is a poor indicator.

The end tanks are the tanks that mount on the ends (or top and bottom) of the radiator. That's the part that's leaking on yours. Sounds like you've made up your mind though...

Heath

Thanks for clearing that up. I don't know of any radiator shops in this area that can do that but Brian sent me some good info for radiators so I think I'll go ahead and purchase the new one.

[bullittandy]

I replaced the original radiator at 252K with aftermarket-$150 with same day delivery to my local radiator/AC shop. They said they could repair the original for $125.

I can't imagine that the replacement will last 252K but i also know that i wont own the car at 500K so. . .

[Q45tech]

Reviewing history since 1995, T3 at 3 locations has replaced about 1800 radiators in Infiniti and Lexus. Actually the ratio between brands is ~ equal.

Always a pile of leakers waiting for the junkman.

Most leaks are the result of acid build up from failure to replace AF at reasonable intervals. Measure PH if you don't just drain frequently].After seeing hundreds of oem failures I decided an all aluminum [no plastic] was for me.My custom radiater does weigh double that of oem and almost everything is twice as thick [fins].

If the NUMBER 1 cause of overheats and engine destruction is a radiator leak, why are people so relucant to maintain cooling system?

It is currently 11 years old [1998] and I expect it to last another 11 years [maybe not on this Q but on some vehicle]. It may actually out live me unless damaged in a wreck.

http://www.amazon.com/Advanced...5WT16

"Busted-up radiator fins with 10 years’ worth of embedded moths and grasshoppers don’t only look nasty, they also reduce the efficiency of whatever cooling system they’re serving. If a radiator’s still structurally sound, you don’t need to replace it — several manufacturers offer radiator fin combs that make cleaning out and realigning fins a snap.

Check the number of fins per inch on your radiator to determine the size of fin comb that you need. You can get a comb that’s meant for only one fin pattern, or you can go for a multi-combed, flower-looking unit with six or so combs that’ll work on several different patterns.

Radiator fins on an auto or A/C unit are usually delicate aluminum, so combing ‘em requires a bit of patience and a deft touch — but if the finished product is a cooler-running car or a more efficient A/C that saves you money, the roughly $6 investment is well worth it."

[oldmako]

4 years ago my truck rad was leaking through a crack fairly high on the drivers side tank. Mostly it was an annoyance requiring periodic top offs. Most of the quotes I received for the new rad were fairly high. I even tried 1800 RADIATOR who offered me a fairly competitive price to deliver one to my door. But, how good was the rad? Not something I'd want to remove and return for a warranty claim!

I ended up taking it to a guy who promised me that he repaired more radiators than he replaced.

I ended up with 2 new tanks, 2 hoses, cap, coolant, cored & cleaned for less than half of what a new rad cost.

Now the bad news....I only got 4 years out of that repair and replaced the rad this summer when the core began to leak. I think I came out ahead, and almost sold the truck twice before I had to replace it.

A GOOD rad shop can work wonders. I'd consider it before I replaced one. Fortunately for me, the PO already replaced the one on my Q41.