rogue engine chokes

Post by **harryg** » Sun Nov 08, 2009 7:04 pm

this morning it was 6*C outside and I went to go pick someone up, the rogue was fully warmed and when i pulled into the driveway while applying the brakesthe engine starts to "sputter" and choke..i put it into Park and it seemed like it was about to stall, i gave it a slight rev and it still was "choking" so i put it into drive and drove a few feet and it stopped...hasn't done it since (and have gotten at least 20km on it afterwards) before this i stopped at a few traffic lights as well and it was perfectly normal

maybe it had something to do with the oil change i had done yesterday(got it done at the dealership)i checked the oil level and it is fine, no signs of leaks either

Post by **Nick 568** » Sun Nov 08, 2009 9:45 pm

Our Acura MDX does the exact same thing, but it's 7 years old and has about 80k miles on there. I have no idea why, but I can tell you that if my Rogue starts doing the same thing while still under warranty, I will be taking it into the dealer ASAP, because I personally find that unacceptable.

Post by **Elton Noway** » Mon Nov 09, 2009 3:16 am

harryg wrote:this morning it was 6*C outside and I went to go pick someone up, the rogue was fully warmed and when i pulled into the driveway while applying the brakesthe engine starts to "sputter" and choke..i put it into Park and it seemed like it was about to stall, i gave it a slight rev and it still was "choking" so i put it into drive and drove a few feet and it stopped...hasn't done it since (and have gotten at least 20km on it afterwards) before this i stopped at a few traffic lights as well and it was perfectly normal

maybe it had something to do with the oil change i had done yesterday(got it done at the dealership)i checked the oil level and it is fine, no signs of leaks either

Hi Harry, as you know it doubtful anything specifically related to an oil change would cause such a problem since the two systems (lubrication and carburetion) don't work in unison. However, what they do have in common is some mechanic screwing around under the hood

The vacuum system on these newer cars are very sensitive to leaks. Moving or leaning on stuff under the hood could result in something like a cracked vacuum line or maybe disturbing an electrical connector, either of which could cause rough idling. I'm not saying thats your problem, just that someone under the hood during an oil change might have messed up something else.

Anyway... the fact that the problem has gone away will make it difficult for the dealership to troubleshoot. But I would call the dealership and talk to the service dept so the will make note of the problem (they might even make a note of it in your service records)

When I was reading about your symptoms my first thought was fuel contamination. (i.e. wondering... When was the last time you put fuel in the car before the problem started?) The choking / sputtering could have been something as simple as a fuel contaminate working its way out.

Post by **harryg** » Mon Nov 09, 2009 8:17 am

Elton Noway wrote:
Hi Harry, as you know it doubtful anything specifically related to an oil change would cause such a problem since the two systems (lubrication and carburetion) don't work in unison. However, what they do have in common is some mechanic screwing around under the hood

The vacuum system on these newer cars are very sensitive to leaks. Moving or leaning on stuff under the hood could result in something like a cracked vacuum line or maybe disturbing an electrical connector, either of which could cause rough idling. I'm not saying thats your problem, just that someone under the hood during an oil change might have messed up something else.

Anyway... the fact that the problem has gone away will make it difficult for the dealership to troubleshoot. But I would call the dealership and talk to the service dept so the will make note of the problem (they might even make a note of it in your service records)

When I was reading about your symptoms my first thought was fuel contamination. (i.e. wondering... When was the last time you put fuel in the car before the problem started?) The choking / sputtering could have been something as simple as a fuel contaminate working its way out.

I dont think it would have been a mechanic leaning on tthings since all it was was a oil change and do they not normally just lift up the vehicle and work on it from the bottom for something as simple as an oil change? also it was the first service

and also i remember from the diy oil change thread, isnt there a skid plate blocking the oil filter which therefore one would only have access to from the bottom.

and fuel contamination is what im thinking about as well, especially since it hasnt done it since, also the gas tank was almost full

Post by **Couz** » Mon Nov 09, 2009 4:16 pm

First thing to check in situations like that are tune up parts.

Spark plugs, ignition wires, etc...

Post by **philipa_240sx** » Mon Nov 09, 2009 4:32 pm

Likely a fluke coincidence, but keep an eye on it. You could take it into the dealer to see if any diagnostic codes popped up.

Generally, Nissan engines are very reliable. The 1st gen QR25DE ('02-06) however had a bumpy start to life. Between the catalytic converter issues ('02-03 had issues with running too rich damaging the catalyst), loose throttle butterfly screws, improper piston rings (late '06), cold start issues, and the rash of crank angle sensor failures (almost all Nissan motors were affected), it had it's fair share. My '03 Altima 2.5 was affected by a couple of these.

Now in it's 2nd generation (used in the Rogue), Nissan has tweaked the design and eliminated most of the bugs. It's far smoother and quieter than the 1st gen... which some affectionately referred to as a 'rattle can'.

Interesting to note that the QR25DE is a new design that replaced the KA24DE. The KA24 motor traces it's design well back into the 80's... and it shares a lot with the L and Z series motors from the 70's. With the QR, Nissan brought all they learned from the famous VQ series V-6 and started a fresh new design. Yes, it had it's teething pains, but it's a far more modern engine.

Post by **Couz** » Mon Nov 09, 2009 4:38 pm

On my other car, an Acura my engine choked a couple of times, right on the cusp of stalling on me at stops.

Needed new spark plugs.

Post by **Elton Noway** » Mon Nov 09, 2009 5:09 pm

harryg wrote:I dont think it would have been a mechanic leaning on things since all it was was a oil change and do they not normally just lift up the vehicle and work on it from the bottom for something as simple as an oil change?

Yes... the vehicle is normally lifted in order to get to the drain plug and filter "however" the mechanic still has to open the hood to remove the oil filler cap, as well as pump in the new oil ... and also get to the dip stick. Most dealers also check all the various fluid level under the hood when a car comes in for its first check up. Who knows where a mechanic may have rested his elbows.

harryg wrote:and also i remember from the diy oil change thread, isnt there a skid plate blocking the oil filter which therefore one would only have access to from the bottom.

Yes... to reach the oil filter you have to squeeze your arm in past a plastic curtain/cover/skid plate or whatever you want to call it, located in the the passenger side wheel well. Not the best design but it gets the job done.[/QUOTE]

harryg wrote:and fuel contamination is what im thinking about as well, especially since it hasnt done it since, also the gas tank was almost full

Yep... and as Philipa suggested... it could have also just been a coincidence that the car happended to sputter after you took in in for service... and one had nothing to do with the other. Lets hope it was a one shot deal and won't reoccur.

Post by **philipa_240sx** » Tue Nov 10, 2009 2:49 am

Couz wrote:On my other car, an Acura my engine choked a couple of times, right on the cusp of stalling on me at stops.

Needed new spark plugs.

Ignition systems are very sensitive to moisture, poor connections, and worn/damaged spark plugs. This is why many new cars use distributor-less direct ignition systems... no distributor, no points, no spark plug wires. The only thing that wears out are the plugs and they are iridium tipped and designed to last 100,000mi or more.

Post by **Couz** » Tue Nov 10, 2009 6:37 am

philipa_240sx wrote:
Ignition systems are very sensitive to moisture, poor connections, and worn/damaged spark plugs. This is why many new cars use distributor-less direct ignition systems... no distributor, no points, no spark plug wires. The only thing that wears out are the plugs and they are iridium tipped and designed to last 100,000mi or more.

Wow...I had no idea.

So our Rogues don't require tuneups at regular intervals?

I really need to read the manual.

Post by **philipa_240sx** » Tue Nov 10, 2009 9:03 am

Couz wrote:Wow...I had no idea. So our Rogues don't require tuneups at regular intervals?

Nope, no tune ups. Just change the oil and filter. The engine air filter too.

The only other periodic maintenance is coolant flushing at 96,000km (60,000mi) and spark plugs at 168,000km (105,000mi) as per Schedule 1 Maintenance

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