The best way to contact me is by email, which you can find in my profile.

Someone come take her away, $7000. Thats a pretty good price considering the $10,000+ worth of parts alone Ive put in. I could most likely make more parting her out, but I dont have the time.

VIN JN1AS44D5SW014854

Its come time to let go of my S14. I’ve had this car since 2003, and we’ve been through a lot together. Things are changing in my life, and its time to move on.

I drive this car to and from work every day, and I have during the summer since I bought it. It had less than 100,000 miles on it in 2003, and it is coming up on 213,000 now. Every mile has been put on by me. I’ve done a lot of road tripping, this car has seen a decent part of the Midwest, which is where a great deal of the miles came from. The title is clean.

There is absolutely nothing wrong with the car mechanically. I am an auto mechanic by trade, and Ive kept this car in tip top shape. I would have no qualms about taking her halfway across the country after nothing more than an oil change. Ive done multiple 4-500 mile trips, and she has never left me stranded.

Its a true SE, with every option except leather. I swapped a redtop SR20DET into it in the spring of 2004. All the work besides the swap wiring was done by me. I had the wiring harness prepared by Wiring Specialties. All of the interior electronics, (stereo, windows, and heat etcetera) work perfectly. There may be a lot of miles on the chassis, it is extremely well maintained mechanically. Nearly every rubber part in the suspension has been replaced with either urethane or aluminum. All the hoses and vacuum lines have been replaced within the last few years. All of the regular maintenance items were done either when I swapped the engine, or in the time since.

Chasis and body
-Custom vented hood
-Custom Krylon flat black paint
-Custom smoked headlights
-Custom chopped bumper to fit intercooler
-Rear debadged
-Antenna removed and shaved
-Fenders rolled
-Parking lights and turn signals tinted orange
-Gloss black S14 Zenki SE front lip
-Locking hoodpins

Suspension, Wheels, and Brakes
-16"x8" +10 Rota Grid offroads
-225 50 16 Falcon Azenis RT-615s
-Megan racing street coilovers
-Megan racing tension rods
-Jonnie Fraz, Bolt on tension arm brace.
-Circuit sports rear toe rods
-Circuit sports RUCAs
-Energy suspension full urethane bushing kit
-New Moog ball joints at all corners
-New Moog sway links at all corners
-SPL Racing aluminum rear subframe bushings
-Front and rear strut tower bars
-New Q45 calipers, pads and Brembo rotors up front
-Fresh DOT 4 brake fluid

Engine and Drivetrain

I swapped the SR into it in 2004, and the car had around 110,000 miles on it. Ive been daily driving it ever since. The engine has had its oil changed religiously every 3000 miles or less, using only Amsoil high performance 10w40 full synthetic, and a OE Nissan filter. Last spring the car made 251 RWHP and 250 ft lbs of torque on the dyno. Its not a dyno queen, this car spools fast, and there is tons of power under the curve.

-Redtop SR20DET
-T25, rebuilt, bead blasted, and balanced 15000 miles ago.
-Heavythrottle hot pipe with custom Greddy blow off valve flange
-Greddy Type S BOV
-Greddy VSPL Front mount intercooler kit
-HKS 11 PSI adjustable wastegate actuator
-Top speed tubular bottom mount turbo manifold
-Top speed dump tube
-Megan Racing 3 inch downpipe
-Catco race cat
-Muffler shop special full 3 in exhaust
-Magnaflow 3 in inlet dual 2 1/2 outlet muffler
-Mocal thermostatic oil filter sandwich plate
-Setrab oil cooler with AN fittings and -10 braided steel lines
-Nismo motor mounts
-KoyoRad SR20 copper sports radiator
-Blue Samco silicone radiator hoses
-Derale 14” high flow cooling fan
-Moroso polished aluminum coolant overflow can
-Nismo transmission mount
-Nismo clutch release fork pivot
-Nismo clutch slave cylinder
-Nismo throw out bearing
-Custom clutch damper box removal
-RPS stage 2 pressure plate
-RPS stage 2 high friction 6 puck clutch disc
-Fidanza flywheel
-Shaftmasters 1 piece aluminum driveshaft
-New bosch alternator
-Rear diff cover polished
-Rear subframe painted red
-Rear differential is in mint shape. I had it out this spring, and I checked all the clearances, its perfect.

I also relocated the battery to the trunk. It has an Optima Redtop that is less than a year old.

Interior

-Custom Harness bar
-Sabelt quick release 5 point Harnesses
-Nardi steering wheel
-2in Autometer Boost gauge mounted on right side of Gauge cluster
-6 speaker Clarion audio system
-Clarion ipod/usb ready CZ209 cd deck, less than a month old. All connections soldered and heat shrinked.
-AEM wideband gauge time UEGO controller mounted to steering column.
-Custom black vinyl shifter and emergency brake boots
-HKS limited edition black ball shift knob

Im sure I am forgetting a few things, you spend this much time on something, and some stuff slips the mind. I also have a couple extra sets of wheels available including the OE S14 SE wheels, and a full set of low offset AR jeep wheels. I will let them go cheap. I also have a bunch of spare parts that will come with, like coil packs, and some misc. suspension stuff. I also have two sets of keys, and two working keyless entry fobs, one of which is less than a year old.

I am asking $7000 for the car, but I am negotiable. I would be willing to trade for a stock, rust free S13/S14, or possibly an FC RX7, both would have to involve cash as well. I am looking to build a race car, so even a rolling chassis might be an option.

All of the factory seat belts are still in the car sans the front buckles, which I have. The seat belts can be returned to stock by simply unbolting the harness bar, and bolting the factory parts back in place. Even with pulling the seats to switch buckles, it could be switched in half an hour or so, and if needed I can do this at the request of the buyer. The factory buckles will be included regardless.

I should say that this car does have a little rust, nothing structural, but there are some cosmetic blemishes. I built this car for one reason, to put smiles on my face, and the looks weren’t very high on my list.
Like I said, I drive this car every day to work, but I can show it on request. I will not show it at home or at work, to deter any chance at it being stolen, so email me to arrange a meeting.

Please no lowballing, or tire kicking. Do not expect to test drive the car unless you have cash in hand. The last person I let test drive it, got on it, lost control, and ended up taking a detour through someone’s front yard.

No pictures of the rust on hand, though I can snap some tomorrow if the car doesn't sell, I have somebody coming to look at it.

This is the subframe as of last spring. I had it out to ease install of the urethane bushing kit.

All the welds had surface rust, but otherwise it was clean.

I stripped it, primed it with a high zinc primer.

Then I painted it bright red, I used heavy duty farm implement paint for better durability.

I failed to take any pictures with it assembled, before putting it back under the car, and have since refailed at taking any decent pictures of it installed, besides the ones above.

good luck w/ sale man definately a quality built car (although i still hate your rattle can paint lol)

Right back at you.

I have something more to add.

All of the factory seat belts are still in the car sans the front buckles, which I have. The seat belts can be returned to stock by simply unbolting the harness bar, and bolting the factory parts back in place. Even with pulling the seats to switch buckles, it could be switched in half an hour or so, and if needed I can do this at the request of the buyer. The factory buckles will be included regardless.

Bump for nice ride

Sorry, if the car is not sold by late October, I will strip all the non spec, or class kicking parts, and build it as my race car.

For Sale: Sr altenator 60... Greddy sr20 RAS 47

91 and 95-240's for sale...http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?

Done, Ill shoot you an email in a week or so. You can have every piece of the interior minus the dash and center console. I may keep the wheels, and the lip may already be spoken for. We will see.

that is I am not sure about the offset? I run z32 brake calipers at all 4 corners.

SR has always been plenty powerful for me. Im building a Group 2 rally car (2wd, NA), so the SR has to go.

The wheels will not clear Z brakes.

for SCCA or pikes or something? I really like those rims? Does Rota make them in an offset that would fit around my z brakes might put the twin turbo 300zx rims on there.

These are the best offset they offer, its the spoke design that makes them not clear.

Im building the car for the Rally America performance rally series. SCCA used to do it, but a few years ago Rally America took over. For now, I will be running Group 2 regional events, but in the next few years I hope to step into the Group 5 National series.

wow cool hope you do well. You running a sentra ser or something? Could you please advise me on what rims would look good? I have thought about some 300zx twin turbo wheels but I do not want to lower my car also looked at some used JDM work wheels but I do not want my car to look like a 4x4.....

Modified by shift_SRDETuser at 8:00 AM 10/6/2009

Actually I will be building another 240SX. RWD is so much fun on gravel.

As for wheels, it really depends how low your car is, and how much camber you are running. When I first put my offroads on, I was only lowered about an inch, and I had about 1 degree of camber. The wheels stuck out, a lot. It really did look like a 4x4. After a little adjusting of the coils, and the camber, it looks the way it does in pictures. Im running around -3.5 degrees of camber now.

Funniest joke ever:

Quote, originally posted by Lonismos14 »

HEY LITTLE s*** YOUR DAD WAS A BULLDOG AND YOUR MOM WAS A s***ZU AND THEN OUT CAME YOU A BULLs***. BEING THAT YOUR DAD WAS IN THE ARMY A BULLs*** BRAT

/sarcasm

Not sure yet, Im going to sit down and write out a list of prices today or tomorrow.

For the RUCA I will need a factory set as trade. Not right away, I will send you the ones I have, you install them, and send the stockers back in the same box. As long as they are not bent. Bushing condition is neglageable as I will be installing polyurethane.