I'm sick of people wanting thousands of dollars for thier fun-to-drive RWD cars, its getting harder to find them for cheap. There are lots of small, lightweight, FWD hoopties out there, though. I want something thats really inexpensive, runs like a bastard, is RWD, crude, brutally functional, and fun as hell to drive, is that too much to ask? But on to the point, the main hurdles here, (as far as I know), would be the tranny tunnel, steering rack clearence, rear suspension, firewall clearence, and mouting the engine to the subframe. The rear suspension could even be a live axle with leaf springs for all I care, as a matter of fact, I think that would be ideal in my case. No big v8 engines, preferably a nice cheap hopped-up 4cyl or v6 with carburettor, no ECU's! Mounting the leaf springs to the unit-body could be accomplished with c-channel or box shaped angle iron.
Are my penis and vagina supposed to be touching each other?
I guess, depending on the victim, there might be clearence issues with the rear end. So it might have to be tubbed, kind of. Not a full on tub, because I'm not trying to make a drag car, but enought to fit the axle underneath.
Another thing, my idea here is to preserve light weight, so dropping a unit-body-body onto a frame is out of the question unless it could be less than 2200lbs total. Do you see my vision here?
You DO NOT want leafs on the back of a light car. End of discussion. 4 point at the least. A light car will walk around on those leafs and you'll find yourself pointing the wrong direction real fast. Most FWD engine bays were meant for the engines to be mounted the wrong way, so unless you have something short as rotary you'll have to cut it up and fully fab the entire car. While you're at it you might as well graft a miata or similar RWD subframe for the back. After you're done with this if it's still not incredibly nose heavy it should work.
You want a cheap live axle RWD car? Get an old triumph.
Funny you should say that. My dad's buddy died about 20 years ago, and his TR7 has been sitting behind another friend's garage for about the same time. 40,000 miles are on it. I almost bought this thing for $600, 2 times already. The bad things are; its an early Speke built model from 1976, and it has never had a car cover on it for some reason. It needs alot of work. I remember when I was really young how I used to gaze at that car when we would visit, now 17 years later, its in the same damned spot behind that guys garage. The engine oil was actually really clean looking about a year ago, although keeping the Triumph engine/tranny might not be the best idea given the bad rep.
The fact that it's a triumph and all the oil didn't leak out in a week says something about the motor.
True that! Everything else did, though. Brakes and clutch are bone dry and seized, dash and steering wheel are toast. One good thing about the TR7 is the well bolstered bucket seats. Did you know the TR7 was the first car to use a plastic molded dash? The technology was ok, but the finish quality just wasn't there to back it up. I used to lust after that TR7 more than I do lately. A TR8 conversion would be special. If I had a place to store it for the years it would take me to restore it, I might go ahead with the project. GT6 is a cool car, alot like the z-car.
You'd probably have better luck trying to covert into AWD....considering the vast amount of vehicles on the market today that are offered in FWD and AWD versions, it would seem this is a more viable option...
You'd probably have better luck trying to covert into AWD....considering the vast amount of vehicles on the market today that are offered in FWD and AWD versions, it would seem this is a more viable option...
Sure, if I actually had an Attesa just lying in the backyard I would probably consider this.
Quote, originally posted by ravera »
You DO NOT want leafs on the back of a light car. End of discussion. 4 point at the least. A light car will walk around on those leafs and you'll find yourself pointing the wrong direction real fast. Most FWD engine bays were meant for the engines to be mounted the wrong way, so unless you have something short as rotary you'll have to cut it up and fully fab the entire car. While you're at it you might as well graft a miata or similar RWD subframe for the back. After you're done with this if it's still not incredibly nose heavy it should work.
You want a cheap live axle RWD car? Get an old triumph.
What about the 1st gen Mustang, or Vega, or any other light RWD leaf sprung cars? Why does it work for them? It can work quite well, actually.
That's pretty cool, thanks for adding that to the thread. Anything that could be made relatively cheaply and from readily available OEM parts is game in this light. That is the original meaning of hot rodding, and it still is. No ridiculously expensive custom parts!
you're not really gonna get anything that'll last done for very cheap, granted you could use all stock parts off different car from the junkyard, you still need to get everything modified to work. if you want something close to cheap, find a 92-94 tempo, order the awd trans from canada, get yourself a rear subframe off a 90s cougar, mustang... drill some wholes, mount the rear, make a drive shaft and call it fun. otherwise, start lookin in the right places, refer to 1st sentence.
Quote, originally posted by seang »
What about the 1st gen Mustang, or Vega, or any other light RWD leaf sprung cars? Why does it work for them? It can work quite well, actually.
curb weight is still 2600-2800 for both of those, but either way, drop the leaf idea.
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