I rather like Sijoko's project, and with lower compression pistons it should out perform a C63 or come very close.

Those big lifted 4x4 go through u joints at a pretty good clip. There is a reason that every FWD OEM uses constant velocity joints at least on the wheel side of the half shafts.

Discover the power of the button!

I put big power in small cars now.

Custom made aluminum D/S with new joints = $300. It's a wear item. Replace with every second set of tires if necessary.

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Quote, originally posted by Raxephon »

And if Maxnix wants a 5-speed, he'll have plenty of info from NICO to use.

With turbo power, a beefed up RE4 is looking like a better solution. That's basically MB approach with their SOHC 3 valve ground ripping V12 torque monsters.

Problem is, the G50 is plenty fast for everyday traffic and cross country cruising. The question is, how much does one want to pay in reliability, maintenance and fuel expenses to drop passing time by a second or two?

Reminds me I have to go see Craig's 450ZX conversion soon.

Modified by maxnix at 11:26 AM 3/18/2009

I'm on to you, my friend.

I think he's got some interior shots in one of his videos

Quote, originally posted by Jesda »

Waaaaaaaiiit a minute. April 1st is around the corner. Wes is known for his April Fools shenanigans. I'm on to you, my friend.

He's getting REAL good then, given his video and "our" ability to identify a Q45's interior.

I'm still shocked by the awesomeness of this project.

Just out of curiosity Brian, why would you want a 6 speed? The only way that'd be nicer is if you could get one that was like 2nd overdrive... The extra gear I dont think would do much for you, the VH has so much torque in such a wide band that IMO I dont think you'd want 6 speed.... Once I post a video of going through 1st, 2nd and 3rd, youll see...

Theres essentially no dead spots, seems to me like theres always a perfect gear, in the less than 100 miles ive driven the car..

You guys truly have no idea how great the VH is in stock form until you drive it without the slushbox.. INCREDIBLE.

Also, i dropped a "second or 2" with less maintenance and better fuel economy.. no more having to do transmission flushes, just change 2 quarts of fluid every year!!

Thats sorta the idea that I had in my mind.. Where it would sit right next to the seat.

There is one wire from the TCU that can be cut to eliminate the "Transmission Malfunction" message. If you want to do it I'll look it up later, can't recall the wire color/pin number from memory. Simple fix...

Gee I wonder Wes why it runs like hell? Does the new gear ratios that are mutiplying the torque have anything do do with it?

The picuture in this thread.....what are those pedals?

That's a decent block diagram Paul but the diagrams on page AT-38 and AT-39 are a little more complete and show wire colors.

I would rec this.

Vibes are a huge problem on modified Mustangs and most of the time is a change in the pinion angles (lowered cars). It doesn't seem to matter how big the difference is but rather that the angle between the tranny tailshaft and diff is 90 degrees.

Another thing you might try (if you haven't already) is to add the stock auto tranny vibration dampner. The two biggest improvements I made to reduce driveline vibes on my 91 LX 5.0 were adding power seats (no mechanical connection between seat frame and body) and adding a tranny dampner from a Mazda Millenia to the rear of the tranny which consisted of a huge hunk of metal that was heavy as hell and a rubber cube.

Trust me on this though-you will want to get rid of that vibe b/c it might drive you crazy-kind of like a imbalanced tire.

Also, what changes would need to be made to adapt this to a 97+ car...

Well if thats the case, wouldnt simply removing the TCU do the same thing?

Andy, basically everything for the 97+ car would need to be different. You'd need to make your own VH41 adapter plate (bolt pattern is different), im sure the pedal arrangement and shifter position might be similar, but its a shot in the dark.. You're also going to have a TON more issues (so much that it may not even make it worth it?) with the ECU being OBDII.. you cant fall back on the info for people with OBDII cars with MT's offered in them because all they do is wire things up and switch the ECU's to a MT version.. cant do that on a Y33 because never offered it and also you cant reprogram the ECU at all.

In my case, the hard part was the mechanics about it.. In the Y33 case, the electronics are almost going to be insurmountable.

Youll notice on picture (7?) that im using the stock AT crossmember with those brackets to adapt it.. So, im using the stock AT tranny mount (insulator) that you speak of...

Wes, I'm sitting here reminiscing about the first time I met you... dorky 16-year-old with more guts and balls than money.

I knew you'd do something awesome like this, but never had any clue you'd be pioneering something THIS big for the community.

*sniff* I'm so damn proud... *sniff*

So when are you gonna produce finished plates for the rest of us? Learning that you used the AT crossmember and a lengthened Q45 driveshaft could be used has shortened my parts-checklist! All I need is a starter and clutch kit! Oh, and of course, an adapter plate!!!

May I?

Probably, I'm just not sure if removal of the TCU will have other ramifications. There may be a few other systems that are receiving some signals from it like the ECU.

Take spares with you
tires
clutches
etc

Now I just need to get the automatic drive positioner to work and also the memory seats. For a rainy day...

He's gonna your Q!

If he really wants his car to rip he will get that 4.08 gear in that car......he is such a pansy when it comes to that rear gear!

Ive mocked up 2 shifter surrounds using a manilla folder. Please note my cutting skills suck and all the edges would be rounded... I also didnt install the boot because i need a new one anyway.

The major problem is that the shifter is very biased toward the passenger side for whatever reason...

Option 1- Make the hole symmetrical about it (and only use the right side of the hole) and put 3 of the door window switches at the top of the console...

Option 2... Use the right hand of the bezel for the shifter and the other side put the factory 94 Q window switches in place next to each other..

Im kinda leaning toward the second option the more I think about it..

4.08 VLSD, NICO 8-way ECU, full exhaust with custom headers,
Tokico Blues with Eibach springs, Stillen FSTB, 20mm RSB

I would like to see center console window control with the window lock relocated to the top or bottom of the shifter surround.

On the stock shift knob the shift rod actually goes inside the knob, which makes it sit way low. Using a different shift knob allows the shift knob to sit right on top of it.

You could probably bend the shifter over if you wanted to, but I really dont see a reason to. I really dont have an issue where it is.. Maybe someday i'll do it, but not right now.

I really dont think either surround is going to be difficult to make, i dont see either one being harder to make than the other, which is why I asked for an opinion... I think the second option would look more factory, and also I could easily install gauges up at the top of the shifter later (another reason to go that route).. Coolant temp gauge and oil pressure would be cool.

And I don't see the reason for a second yet more accurate coolant temp gauge, it wouldn't look right in my opinion.

Do you still use the tranny cooler for your M/T?

I would like some day: Oil pressure and temperature, transmission gauges.