I've never even thought of using the E-brake on my truck during driving - but it's an interesting idea.

Heath

I'm working up numbers now on how much it's gonna cost for me to do it again. Most of it is just gathering the piles of parts that I had to measure out for the fit, for this swap I didn't think it would be a big deal to get the tranny for Wes, turned out to be a big hassel. Not Wes's fault but if someone was interested in hunting down the list of parts, and buying the adapterplate and special bolts from wes, I could actually get it down pretty quick and relitivly affordable. Lord knows I'd rather be doing fab/custom work any day than working on the other rusty junk that comes around here anymore because everyone in michigan's uber-broke. But it's a big laundry-list of parts.

I did do this job for wes at a discount, but I've known him along time and was pretty sure he wasn't going to screw me over, and feel we were helping each other out. I needed to pay bills, he wanted a kick-azz ride. Done deal.

If people have questions about prices, AIM me. Otherwise post your questions about this swap here so I don't have to answer the same questions repeatedly, and so the other people can see.
I've done all kinds of swaps and I'll make anything you can dream.
I've got some luny nissan projects I'd like to build for a lucky someone (with money) at a Wes-like discount.

Thanks for the compliments by the way, and this took me around 142 hrs in two weeks including the parts chasing, but not including going to class. Got a little outta-it near the end, but it's done now.
Here's pictures of the build, they're in there, just scroll down:
http://s151.photobucket.com/albums/s143/sishinthin/

Quote, originally posted by Johnny Rocket »

: 3.214 2: 1.195>>>>>This cant be correct 3: 1.302 4: 1.000 5: 0.752

You're right, it was a typo. It's really 1.925. Post has been fixed.

Quote, originally posted by Jesda »

While there aren't many hills in Indiana, how do you manage hills without a hand-operated parking brake? The first-generation CTS had a manual transmission that a lot of people skipped because it had a foot parking brake like the Q.

That seems nonsensical to me. Hand-operated park brakes are a relatively new thing. People got by just fine in the decades before handbrakes when manual transmissions were the ubiquitous drivetrain format.
The people who avoided the CTS for that reason are probably the same dipoars I see smoldering their clutches at stoplights by rocking back and forth incessantly throughout the duration of the red. Learn to drive or go buy a Camry.

4.08 VLSD, NICO 8-way ECU, full exhaust with custom headers,
Tokico Blues with Eibach springs, Stillen FSTB, 20mm RSB

Its a trick I learned living in the pacific northwest. And for various maneuvers, like throwing the rear around in the snow, you get more control by having it within easy reach for better control and modulation.

We had some terribly annoying 45-degree angle streets. Stalling and rolling backwards was dangerous, even for seasoned drivers, so folks grabbed their e-brakes for temporary additional support while stopped on an incline (usually while waiting for someone to turn).

Quote »

The people who avoided the CTS for that reason are probably the same dipoars I see smoldering their clutches at stoplights by rocking back and forth incessantly throughout the duration of the red. Learn to drive or go buy a Camry.

The people who can drive who preferred a manual but wanted a sporty luxury sedan simply purchased a BMW or Infiniti G. The 6MT G37 moves the parking brake from the foot area to a center console handle.

Anyway, it seems the VH45 has enough low-end power to take off easily. I do like Nissan clutches!

Virtually all European cars had them from the late forties on.

Modified by maxnix at 7:21 AM 3/17/2009

Discover the power of the button!

Quote, originally posted by jimbyjimb »

That may be true but if you've ever seen downtown Seattle, or almost any city in western Washington, you'll understand Jesda's point. It's almost suicide here to attempt driving a stick in heavy downtown traffic without a handbrake. This is an unfriendly territory for clutches.

Heh, I live on a mountain. I drove a manual 2wd pickup for years, including delivering pizza all over the mountain for about a year...though all extremes of weather. I was just fine with a foot-operated e-brake.

Honestly, one of the first things I realized when I started driving the Q after the Maxima was just how much more I prefer foot brakes to hand brakes. I never noticed in my Caddy or Ford because they both had bench seats, but with a center console that's free of a brake handle, the benefits are clear to me.

Quote, originally posted by sishinthin »

What kinda e-brake would be the popular choice?

One type to consider if getting rid of the e-brake pedal is most convenient is the pistol-grip style e-brakes like you find in 90s Toyota and Nissan pickups. I really like that style as well. It's still out of the way of the center console but also out of the way of the clutch pedal.
I can't find any pictures to show what I'm talking about, unfortunately.

Ahh... snow! I forgot about that. We just stay home the one or two days a year it happens around here

Quote, originally posted by MinisterofDOOM »

One type to consider if getting rid of the e-brake pedal is most convenient is the pistol-grip style e-brakes like you find in 90s Toyota and Nissan pickups.

I'll try to get a picture for you today - my truck has one.

Heath

Solution: Diesel Power.

Just kidding.

The hand break might be nice if you live where me and Chris do (in the Rockies) but if you know what you're doing I don't think it would be that big of a deal driving without one.

Is this it?

Hell, a steep inclined exit from a parking lot can be enough to make it a PITA.

Rax, he means the t-handled brake on the right side of the steering wheel (beneath the ignition) like most Hardbody pickups had.

Wes, get the handbrake squared away... it'll be worth it.

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Wouldn't be the Q forum without nitpickers.

Also, do you have any pics of the shifter? Do the window controls still fit without modification?

Hopefully the starter will clear my headers and I'll be home free there.

I'll probably just remove the cruise equipment. I don't think I'd ever miss it.

Quote, originally posted by Q451990 »

That is true. Maybe we're still in shock!

I think you're right.

But I doubt the window controls would clear the shifter in there stock housing.

Quote, originally posted by Ludeaem »

More video! That is sweet! Im surprised maxnix hasn't commented on the oil leaks on the under carriage haha. "you need to get all new seals"

let's start a list: Can you find all the non-factory things on the car that drive maxnix crazy!!!!
i got dubs on the non-factory (wanna sound like a v-8 mustang) exhaust sysytem!

spoken like a moderator with a well-trained flock

Touche sir, TOUCHE!!

Theres no way the trans is going to affect ground clearance the exhaust hangs lower than the trans.. Like I said, its less than an inch and the MT doesnt have the pan hanging down like the AT does.

Im not releasing pics of the interior until its all done... Long story short I have to modify the shifter surround by grinding a little off the rear and the right hand side. Im probably just going to make a new one.

I saw some pedals on the other car that look pretty good........what did he use?

Are you speaking of my 5-speed conversion or the rb swap midnight did?

How did you handle the ECU/TCU communications? Do you have a "Transmission Malfunction" message on your dash? I know Infiniti made a big deal about retarding the spark advance a bit during shifts to make the A/T shift smoother - does that come in to play here?

Heath

It is not trivial in the least. No one can transfer from the foot brake to the accelerator and not roll back without an inefficient engagement and abusive of the clutch.

Still wonder about the U joint. Seems the only way to install correctly is strip the interior, cut the tunnel, install of mock up very accurately the transmission, clutch housing and engine on new engine mounts, mark, fabricate and weld new tunnel to accommodate the new transmission. Then fabricate mounts for the handbrake along the center console and the cable runs underneath the car.

Certainly this is an important first step, but not the final long term solution, unless you are just happy to be rolling..

I get a transmission malfunction code when you first turn the key on, but as soon as you crank the car it goes away.. So it really doesnt bother me.. I havent tried taking the TCU out and seeing if that does anything.

I could probably trick the car so the transmisison malfuction light doesnt come on...

As far as the ECU is concerned, there is no funny business. It starts up and idles like it should and runs like hell!!!

Wes and I ran into this YEARS ago when we were developing a S/C kit for the G50.

And the driveshaft angle issue is a non-issue. Having messed with 4x4s for a while, and having my own struggles with a high-hp car with adjustments made to the engine heigt, I can tell you it is simply not an issue. There's not enough deflection to matter, and very few OEM designs maintain perfect linearity from trans output to diff input.

In fact, many are offset TO THE SIDE, as well as vertically.

Oh, I'm sure you could trick the cluster by supplying ground or 12V to whatever pin controls that message. I was more concerned about the spark timing retard. It will be interesting to hear how it will drive when the TCU is out.

Heath

If you cut a hole in the top of the tunnel just large enough for the tranny you won't see anymore chassis flex than normal once you've made a cover panel for the hole which was cut.

1 out of every 500 owners will want this done(if that many) to their car, so you aren't going to "corner the market" so to speak. Sorry.

And if Maxnix wants a 5-speed, he'll have plenty of info from NICO to use.