Dammit! Car still wont start (got manifold on and everything)

Discuss the RB20, RB25 and RB26 series engines.
sepulchralx
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Joined: Tue Aug 02, 2005 8:19 pm
Car: 240sx

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i finally got my car together, manifold/turbo/full exhaust is on the car... the car still starts up, then shuts off.. Its getting fuel pressure i believe... had no issues with pump 3 weeks ago when it had a ka24de.

after a while of sitting this is what happens:

1. turn key, car starts, tach goes to like 3k (uncalibrated) and shuts off after 2 seconds.

2. try to start again, car starts and shuts off right away (0.5 sec)

3. car is unresponsive to hitting throttle.

4. i've looked everywhere for vacuum leaks and everything is fine, no leaks.

its almost like if i shut it off and leave it a while the car will run a second longer... I don't know if the cylinders are getting flooded or anything..


dizzywithsunstroke
Posts: 172
Joined: Tue Dec 11, 2007 6:57 pm
Car: 1995 Nissan 240sx w/ RB20DET and 1997 Nissan Hardbody

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sounds stupid but make sure your lines aren't reversed. line from fuel filter goes to back of rail.

sepulchralx
Posts: 203
Joined: Tue Aug 02, 2005 8:19 pm
Car: 240sx

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checked that already

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eh?
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Is this a stock install? Any mods?

sepulchralx
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Joined: Tue Aug 02, 2005 8:19 pm
Car: 240sx

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Sorry! This has a lovefab manifold, stock mafs (for now) q45 TPS/Q45 TB, freddy intake manifold, gt3582r, fmic, exhaust..

o2 is installed as well.


Modified by sepulchralx at 8:16 PM 2/18/2009

Carryl
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Joined: Sat Oct 14, 2006 3:28 pm

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In that pic , your cas looks fully retaded if im not mistaken. Is your base timing set, also when you say the car starts does it sound like its firing on all cylinders? is it possible that your cas is 180 degrees off? also try clamping the return fuel line see if it helps then u know you have u have a fueling issue..

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eh?
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stock ecu?

sepulchralx
Posts: 203
Joined: Tue Aug 02, 2005 8:19 pm
Car: 240sx

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Carryl wrote:In that pic , your cas looks fully retaded if im not mistaken. Is your base timing set, also when you say the car starts does it sound like its firing on all cylinders? is it possible that your cas is 180 degrees off? also try clamping the return fuel line see if it helps then u know you have u have a fueling issue..
Stock ECU (S2 AUto) , Stock mafs

Clamping fuel line does nothing, CAS is about half way. Is there such thing as a fuel pump Relay? Could that have gone bad or be losing 12v signal? What about the AAC/Boost Valve/VTC Control what if that is wired wrong?

Unplugging mafs or TPS does nothing, no change. And like i said the car doesnt respond to any throttle. I do have a q45 TPS, but i believe its wired correctly.

I am so so stumped and tired of this s***! How do you check codes on an ecu w/o an LED? Who thinks its something electrical?

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matafied
Posts: 423
Joined: Mon Jan 08, 2007 8:15 am
Car: 1989 240 rb25det 1992 240 rb25det

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so has the car ever ran with the rb in the car before upgrades??

sepulchralx
Posts: 203
Joined: Tue Aug 02, 2005 8:19 pm
Car: 240sx

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Upgrades should not be yielding this issue... no not doing blow through with mafs i just had the mafs off in that picture... mafs or not car does the same thing..

i do have 3-bar map pigtail wired into pin 36 speed density wire. but the Map isnt hooked up (plugged in)
Modified by sepulchralx at 6:16 AM 2/19/2009

Darius
Posts: 4820
Joined: Sun Mar 02, 2003 9:48 am
Car: RB25DET S14 - 665 WHP (SOLD)
Location: Chicagoland

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I'm leaning towards an electrical issue that is related to the fueling. You should retrace the injector wiring harness to make sure that the power to that harness is constant. The last you said, I think you had it running from the battery. Otherwise, is it possible the relay to the fuel pump is not staying closed once the key is left in the ON position?

sepulchralx
Posts: 203
Joined: Tue Aug 02, 2005 8:19 pm
Car: 240sx

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Darius wrote:I'm leaning towards an electrical issue that is related to the fueling. You should retrace the injector wiring harness to make sure that the power to that harness is constant. The last you said, I think you had it running from the battery. Otherwise, is it possible the relay to the fuel pump is not staying closed once the key is left in the ON position?
i'm gunna fly you out to richmond so you can eff with it all expenses paid.

I'm going to call my engine vendor and try and get a new harness... but heres is my list of stuff to do tonight.. I noticed last night that the element in my fuel filter is loose, it rattles like metal hitting metal on the inside of it.

this is what i plan on doing tonight:

Replace Fuel FilterReplace Spark Plugs - SET GAP TO 0.028"Replace main Fuel Feed LineCheck every air connection for a leakCheck wiring at Cam-Angle-Sensor PlugCheck Coil Harness GroundCheck Fuel Pump Relay SignalsCheck Plugs Right Away after car shuts off (for flooding)

Tell me if i should add anything to the list
Modified by sepulchralx at 7:31 AM 2/19/2009

Darius
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Car: RB25DET S14 - 665 WHP (SOLD)
Location: Chicagoland

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Club Med Virginia eh? Sounds awesome!

I think your honey-do list should give some good insight to the problem, if not solve it.

sepulchralx
Posts: 203
Joined: Tue Aug 02, 2005 8:19 pm
Car: 240sx

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Darius wrote:Club Med Virginia eh? Sounds awesome!

I think your honey-do list should give some good insight to the problem, if not solve it.
I've had issues like this with the SR where spark was jumping between wires at the CAS plug... thats something i def. need to check becase the wiring looked weird to it.

I got a suggestion on another forum to try supplying constant power to the fuel pump by jumpering the relay plug to the fuel pump relay to see if the car stays on. I'll try that too.

Is there any way in hell i can check this ecu for error codes?

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matafied
Posts: 423
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Car: 1989 240 rb25det 1992 240 rb25det

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sepulchralx wrote:Upgrades should not be yielding this issue... Modified by sepulchralx at 6:16 AM 2/19/2009
no, but just wondering if the car had ran before ( i.e the wiring was known good and working ) because anyone in the middle of upgrades can make a bo bo lol atleast alittle idea to were the problem stemed from. i would check and verify that you have steady B+ on one side of your injector harness

did you do the wiring yourself??looking good by the way

sepulchralx
Posts: 203
Joined: Tue Aug 02, 2005 8:19 pm
Car: 240sx

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Yeah i did wiring myself... steady B+??

God i'm tired of working on this thing lol, I just want to drive it. Here are some more pics

manifold and compressor housing

2.5" dump tube clearance from tie rod boot

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250sx se
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Car: 240sx w rb25det

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mine did the same thing do you have the iaac plumbed

sepulchralx
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Car: 240sx

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Yes I do... It would be the IACV if the car responded to throttle.

I just bought a new engine harness for $50.00 shipped... we'll see what that does

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eh?
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A new harness for what? ECU codes probably won't tell you much. If you want them the procedure is in the FSM.

Do this:Remove your coil packs and unplug the injector connector.Stick a sparkplug into each coil pack and remove the CAS.With key on, rotate the CAS. You should hear the Fuel pump run and you should see sparks at the coils packs.Next do the same with your injectors, make sure the coils are unplugged. You will hear each injector click and the fuel pump should be running when you spin the CAS.

sepulchralx
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Joined: Tue Aug 02, 2005 8:19 pm
Car: 240sx

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eh? wrote:A new harness for what? ECU codes probably won't tell you much. If you want them the procedure is in the FSM.

Do this:Remove your coil packs and unplug the injector connector.Stick a sparkplug into each coil pack and remove the CAS.With key on, rotate the CAS. You should hear the Fuel pump run and you should see sparks at the coils packs.Next do the same with your injectors, make sure the coils are unplugged. You will hear each injector click and the fuel pump should be running when you spin the CAS.
can you explain in more detail, i can't really get your meaning of what you're trying to get me to do.... Why remove the CAS? Handspin it? More details, thanks man

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eh?
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That procedure will tell you:1) If your fuel pump is working2) Injectors are being powered/triggered3) If the coils are working4) If your CAS is sending signals 5) If your ECU is getting signals

When your CAS rotates it tells the ECU the engine is spinning and where the crankshaft/cam is at. Doing so the ECU turns on the Fuel pump and fires the injectors and ignitor coils.

So when you turn the ignition key on and remove the CAS and then spin it, it simulates a running engine. If everything is okay the fuel pump will turn on, the injectors will fire and the ignitors will also fire.

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matafied
Posts: 423
Joined: Mon Jan 08, 2007 8:15 am
Car: 1989 240 rb25det 1992 240 rb25det

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what he is trying to get you to do is,1. verify that you have spark2. verify that your fuel pump is indeed working and coming on 3. verify that your injectors are clicking ( working, getting signal )

by spinning the CAS by hand you can check these things with out cranking your motor over, and gives you the ability to check these things under the hood.just make sure you turn your key switch on

sepulchralx
Posts: 203
Joined: Tue Aug 02, 2005 8:19 pm
Car: 240sx

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eh? wrote:A new harness for what? ECU codes probably won't tell you much. If you want them the procedure is in the FSM.

Do this:Remove your coil packs and unplug the injector connector.Stick a sparkplug into each coil pack and remove the CAS.With key on, rotate the CAS. You should hear the Fuel pump run and you should see sparks at the coils packs.Next do the same with your injectors, make sure the coils are unplugged. You will hear each injector click and the fuel pump should be running when you spin the CAS.
can you explain in more detail, i can't really get your meaning of what you're trying to get me to do.

gawdzilla
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Car: none

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if you understood how the car is supposed to run, you would understand what they are trying to tell you.

How does the ECU know when to fire the injectors and spark plugs? The CAS.

If you rotate the CAS by hand in the direction the motor turns over with the ignition on, the ECU will think the car is "running", and fire the plugs and injectors in the proper sequence. The reason for turning by hand and removing the plugs is so you don't get a ton of noise from the motor actually turning over or combustion/exhaust noise. It's much easier to diagnose by looking at your spark plugs firing and feeling your injectors clicking. Much better than cranking it and hearing it come alive for 2 seconds of noise.

sepulchralx
Posts: 203
Joined: Tue Aug 02, 2005 8:19 pm
Car: 240sx

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Well I replaced the fuel filter/ and line... The car runs on brake parts cleaner, but no stays

I think i found the problem.... the ecu smells burnt, Yay, heh.

Anyone care to lend me an ecu for a week? (I'm going straight to AEM) I'll pay shipping both ways... Pleeeaase

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Kansei240sx
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Did you take out the CAS?

Take it out and plug it in, turn the key on, turn the shaft by hand, listen for your injectors clicking, your fuel pump turning on, and coil packs clicking. Also, make sure your MAF is 100 PERCENT FREE OF ANY DEBRIS WHAT-SO-EVER.

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USMCgetsome
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if ecu smells burnt you need to send your harness to carlh to get inspected.! no bueno homie!

sepulchralx
Posts: 203
Joined: Tue Aug 02, 2005 8:19 pm
Car: 240sx

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KUILLIN_DRIFTER wrote:if ecu smells burnt you need to send your harness to carlh to get inspected.! no bueno homie!
Anyone got an extra ecu?

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matafied
Posts: 423
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Car: 1989 240 rb25det 1992 240 rb25det

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Look man ecu's just don’t go up in smoke on their own. I’m not saying that you suck at wiring, but there is clearly a problem that needs to be addressed. Before you just go popping ecu's like . You need to go back through your wiring and or sent the harness off and have it done. Better than taking a chance and wasting 2k on a EMS that you might destroy. Just a thought

Darius
Posts: 4820
Joined: Sun Mar 02, 2003 9:48 am
Car: RB25DET S14 - 665 WHP (SOLD)
Location: Chicagoland

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I am wondering if it was damaged at the same time as the starter solenoid was fried.


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