Tips on Boosting my S14 N/A SR

[E7-S14]

ive decided to go froward with this now instead of lateri haven't really messed with boosting any cars up until now

my main questions for you guys are where are the best places to tap oil and coolant lines for the turbo.Im trying to avoid drilling into the block where the stock locations are

For Coolant Return line a friend told me to tap it from my waterneck going to the rad and for the feed line tap it from a heater core hose.

ill assume that's a good idea

as far as oil and oil return lineswheres a good place for those?

a friend of mine that owns a shop will be helping me do this and he knows places to tap and what not as hes done this before but i figured id ask you guys first.

and if you guys have any tips for me that would be helpful

im using all stock s13/s14 turbo parts of the job with the exception of bov/ and lines.

i also posted this in the KA-T forum as they boost unboosted motors too

[jr_ss]

Are you sure that the factory holes aren't just plugged from the factory? I would think that they just made all the blocks the same and plugged the ones that were destined to be NA. Something worth looking into atleast.

If not, you can get an oil sandwich adapter and feed your turbo that way and drain into the factory location, then buy an S14 DET upper coolant housing with the banjo bolt and use that for the coolant feed/return, whatever it is.

You're going to have to get a tune no matter what. You won't be able to use the factory Det's ECU.

[E7-S14]

i have a safcII

a guy local to me boosted his N/A sr but he drilled into stock locationsthey were plugged. and had to be drilled

im trying to avoid drilling into the block.cuz the motor would have to be pulled..

[jeking1]

If you want this thing to last and have as little problems as possible, you should drill into the block and do it the factory way. You increase your chances of messing up stuff otherwise. If you run the oil line from somewhere that doesn't have enough pressure the turbo seal could go out and whatnot. Make sure you get a good tune on it also.

[burntricer]

is the wiring from a DET to a DE the same? if so i would just get a long block...and run that with stock boost, should be around $1100, and im sure boosting yours would be substantially more then that....

[E7-S14]

is the wiring from a DET to a DE the same? if so i would just get a long block...and run that with stock boost, should be around $1100, and im sure boosting yours would be substantially more then that....

wiring isn't the sameand im looking at 900 in parts to boost mine.

If you want this thing to last and have as little problems as possible, you should drill into the block and do it the factory way. You increase your chances of messing up stuff otherwise. If you run the oil line from somewhere that doesn't have enough pressure the turbo seal could go out and whatnot. Make sure you get a good tune on it also.

i know that's the way you guys did it on the s13 but i figured there were other ways. other alternatives that yield the same results and can be reliablewith guys that boost there KAs and beat on them(drifting) they don't drill into the block

drilling into my block just sounds scary to me...

[Seishuku]

Skip the water lines, just use a turbo timer. Don't bother drilling and tapping for oil supply, just drill and tap the oil return (it's pretty easy to do with the engine in the car, but you need to take off both oil pans to do it right) and use the oil pressure sender location with a tee (like a KA+T).

A used S13 T25 and manifold for me was $200 shipped, and I did all my own tuning, so that's about all it cost me, plus maybe $100 for small misc items (1/8 BSPT adapter, 1/8 NPT Tee, AN adapters, oil line, etc).

Let me know if you want a copy of my ECU ROM, if you're going that route, my ECU already had a rom board in it, so that wasn't a cost for me, but there are a lot of resources for that even on these ECUs.

I should note that I run a small water+alcohol injector for a safe guard, because 10:1 compression and boost kinda sucks. BUT I'm running 11PSI, and it just loves it! I've spiked to 15PSI once, but it was because the boost controller got stuck, but no problems (I wouldn't run it at that though!)

[E7-S14]

Skip the water lines, just use a turbo timer. Don't bother drilling and tapping for oil supply, just drill and tap the oil return (it's pretty easy to do with the engine in the car, but you need to take off both oil pans to do it right) and use the oil pressure sender location with a tee (like a KA+T).

A used S13 T25 and manifold for me was $200 shipped, and I did all my own tuning, so that's about all it cost me, plus maybe $100 for small misc items (1/8 BSPT adapter, 1/8 NPT Tee, AN adapters, oil line, etc).

Let me know if you want a copy of my ECU ROM, if you're going that route, my ECU already had a rom board in it, so that wasn't a cost for me, but there are a lot of resources for that even on these ECUs.

I should note that I run a small water+alcohol injector for a safe guard, because 10:1 compression and boost kinda sucks. BUT I'm running 11PSI, and it just loves it! I've spiked to 15PSI once, but it was because the boost controller got stuck, but no problems (I wouldn't run it at that though!)

ok since you've done it.im gonna need more of your help haim just trying to get as many opinions and views i can on this

what exactly is a water+alcohol injector?and 10:1 on 11lbs=bad for this motor?i was planning on running reg. boost at around 8 and high boost around 10

and as far as having a rom board on your ecu my ecu is stockso what would i do with a copy of your ecu rom?i will be using a safc for tuning.. that should be sufficient right?

[Seishuku]

You won't be able to use the factory Det's ECU.

Not completely, you could if you run ALL the DET's hardware (engine harness, ECU, coil packs, etc etc), I'm actually using NEARLY the same fuel map and MORE timing than a stock S13 DET. I don't see any reason you couldn't really use an all stock DET tune.

However, I would still use a touch of alcohol injection to kill any detention that might happen, plus you could run a bit more boost.

[Seishuku]

ok since you've done it.im gonna need more of your help haim just trying to get as many opinions and views i can on this

what exactly is a water+alcohol injector?and 10:1 on 11lbs=bad for this motor?i was planning on running reg. boost at around 8 and high boost around 10

and as far as having a rom board on your ecu my ecu is stockso what would i do with a copy of your ecu rom?i will be using a safc for tuning.. that should be sufficient right?

http://www.alcohol-injection.com/Check that out. Basically you spray a fine mist of alcohol and water into the intake, and when that mix hits the combustion chamber, it will turn into steam when the fuel mix ignites and will absorb energy. It's like running race gas with out the race gas price.

Check around here for more ECU modding:http://www.sr20forum.com/calumsult/

I've never actually done the changes needed on the S14 SR-DE ECU, but if you contact Calum on that site, he does ECU work and should be able to do the changes you need.

I wouldn't use an SAFC, I've seen it done, but I don't trust it.

[burntricer]

Skip the water lines, just use a turbo timer.

no, no, no, no no!!

even if you have to tap into the throttle body coolant lines or something use both liquid cooling and oil cooling, you dont want to be replacing turbos every couple years. the use of liquid cooling really increases the life of the turbo bearings, ESPECIALLY IF YOU GO DUAL BB

Trust me on this one, just for longevity, they are liquid cooled for a reason.

[jr_ss]

Not completely, you could if you run ALL the DET's hardware (engine harness, ECU, coil packs, etc etc), I'm actually using NEARLY the same fuel map and MORE timing than a stock S13 DET. I don't see any reason you couldn't really use an all stock DET tune.

However, I would still use a touch of alcohol injection to kill any detention that might happen, plus you could run a bit more boost.

The DE uses a dizzy and wires, where as the DET uses coilpacks... The wiring at the dizzy is far from the same as the CAS, so there's no way possible that he can use a DET ecu..

[Seishuku]

Quote »ALL the DET's hardware (engine harness, ECU, coil packs, etc etc)[/quote]I said ALL the hardware, not just the ECU... Though the ECU can be made to work as well, the ECU pinouts are the same.Also the distributor's connector is the same on the S13 DE as the S13's DET CAS, the S14 is a little different, but only because it has a built-in coil.

Quote »no, no, no, no no!!

even if you have to tap into the throttle body coolant lines or something use both liquid cooling and oil cooling, you dont want to be replacing turbos every couple years. the use of liquid cooling really increases the life of the turbo bearings, ESPECIALLY IF YOU GO DUAL BB

Trust me on this one, just for longevity, they are liquid cooled for a reason.[/quote]YESYESYES! A turbo timer will cool down the turbo so that the oil doesn't coke, which obviously would ruin the oil.The cooling during normal operation will have little affect on a stock turbo setup with low boost (6-11PSI), and is usually for when the engine is shut off, so the water will continue to circulate and cool the turbo.So unless you're running with a high EGT from bad tuning (SAFC, bad ROM tune, wrong timing, etc), the water lines aren't needed.I've been running my USED T25 at 11PSI with no water lines for 2 years now, and it's in the same condition it was when I bought it!

HOWEVER, if you REALLY want to waste time putting in a water line for a journal bearing turbo, tap it from one of the throttle body lines, and drill and tap the boss on the water outlet housing (S14 DE only).

They are needed on a BB turbo, yes. Only because the BB turbo isn't oil cooled, and gets much less oil flow.

[herraFLUSH]

i too am also in the process of turboing my s14 de engine.

im looking to use the factory locations.. is anyone able to locate and identify which is which for me? and wat the thread pitch is. i plan to tap the facory thread specs also so i can use the braided stanless steel hoses i bought.

[Seishuku]

Oil feed is M12x1.25, and I think the water line is M14x1.5.Oil return is just a 1/2" BSPT/NPT.